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  1. 10 points
    Hi bro, I thought ur pictures looked good... until I noticed that the pic of the sunflower zoas you’re using was taken by me. Perhaps you can give a heads up to the potential buyers that these photos are taken off the internet? I’m fine if you’re going to use my photo, but please give credit where it is due. And others may feel cheated if they were to get something that is different from the photos. Good luck in ur sales, cheers
  2. 6 points
    Hello everyone, I’ve been keeping marine fish since the early 2000s, but only got into reefing proper in 2015. Thought I’d share some of my aquarium projects over the past few years. In the beginning, I got a secondhand tank from Iwarna. I wanted to go for a bigger display with initial plans for a FOWLR on a budget so this option seemed best at the time. Its basic specs were: - 58” x 24” x 24” - Skimmer: Bubble Magus Curve-9 - Wavemakers: Jebao RW-20 & subsequently x2 Jebao RW-8s. - Return Pump: Sicce Syncra Silent 5.0 Here’s a photo of the tank in its early stages: I was keeping mostly fish in the beginning with a few anemones, but developed a newfound interest in corals when I noticed some stray GSP and goniopora on live rock I’d gotten from FreshnMarine growing unexpectedly. Eventually, I got better lighting, ran a few reactors and converted to a mixed reef-tank for a year or so. Regrettably, the tank ultimately crashed due to a thermal fracture(the tank was running at 25 degrees on a chiller but was located in my front porch which was generally hot most of the time) causing the already more prone curved glass on its sides to crack and I had to decommission the system immediately. While deciding what to do with the unfortunate situation, I experimented with a cube tank plumbed to the sump of my old 5footer and grew mangroves and some simple corals. Not too long after, I got a brand new system that was even bigger than the previous one from and couldn’t quite decide what I wanted to do with it at first- Fish-only or full-blown reeftank. I even messed around with cuttlefish and octopus at one point. This newer system went through a lot of changes in a couple of years but its initial specs were: - Dimensions: 72” x 36 “ x 30” - Skimmer: SkimZ Monzter SM207 DC - Wavemaker: Jebao RW-20 & x2 RW-8s from my previous system, and subsequently + x2 Maxspect Gyre xf-330s. - Lighting: x3 Maxspect R4z0r 160w and subsequently a Maxspect RSX R5-300 to go with the icv6 Ultimately(and quite recently) I decided to settle with a softie tank with a large fish stocking and plumbed a UV sterilizer for good measure. I kept the Mangrove system running for about a year and a half before it also had to be decommissioned due to renovation works next door. Couldn’t bear to see my mangroves go entirely so I managed to get some of them into another semi-outdoor 4ft system I had for while running on with leftover equipment from previous systems on a very tight budget(i more or less got that system for free from a reefer who decommissioned their tank and refurbished it myself) I hope everyone has been taking the time to care for and appreciate their tanks even more this circuitbreaker! Cheers & stay safe. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  3. 5 points
    I've been wanting to start a reef related project that I'll be able to learn things about in another area. So what I picked, is to start on the reef pi project (you can Google more about this too). I'm completely new to programming and know next to nothing about electronics and circuitry beyond the basic stuff taught in schools. Hopefully, I can get some guidance from members here too. What this project is about, is to create an aquarium controller (with whatever bells and whistles you want) using the Raspberry Pi. I've chosen the Raspberry Pi Zero W to start off with since that is relatively inexpensive and that is what most guides use. Plus, having a wireless function definitely helps, although the Zero W is only connected via 2.4 GHz. Just sharing what I've done here so please use your own discretion in deciding whether you want to attempt this or not. Below is a summary of what I've learnt from other guides, of which I am grateful for those creators for having explained the steps. To the more experienced reefers, please let me know if I left out anything. Many thanks in advance. Equipment For this first post, I'll just share what I've started off with so far. Raspberry Pi Zero W Others a. MicroSD card (I'm using a 16GB card, but the minimum recommended capacity is 8GB) b. MicroSD card reader c. GPIO pin strips d. DC power adaptor (5.1V, 2.5A output) (not in picture) e. A computer to connect to the Pi Setting up the Pi 1. Connect your MicroSD card to your computer. Download the Raspberry Pi Imager (search this on Google) and choose the correct OS that your computer is running on. Follow the steps to write the OS on your MicroSD card. 2. Download two files for the Pi set-up off the internet (wpa_supplicant.conf and ssh). Copy these files onto your MicroSD card. 3. Open the copy of "wpa_supplicant.conf" on your MicroSD card and key in the network details you want to connect to, replacing "your_wifi_network_name" and "your_wifi_network_password". Save the file. Remember that you have to connect to a 2.4GHz network for the Zero W. 4. Eject the MicroSD and plug it into your Pi. 5. Plug your Pi into your power source and it should automatically connect to your network. 6. Now you'll need to connect your computer to the network that you connected your Pi to. Once you're connected, open the Command Prompt (Windows) or Terminal (Mac) and run the line "ping raspberrypi.local". You should see Command Prompt or Terminal giving you data about your Pi's connection. To stop the command, enter ^C. 7. Connect your computer to your Pi by running "ssh [email protected]". You'll be prompted with a password. By default, the password is "raspberry". Please remember to change this later. Once you've entered the password correctly, you'll be connected to your Pi via the 2.4GHz network. 8. Enable SSH. To do so, run "sudo raspi-config" on Terminal. Select "5 Interfacing Options", "P2 SSH" and enable SSH. 9. Reboot your Pi. 10. Connect to your Pi again (you may have to restart Terminal) and run the following: "sudo apt-get update -y", "sudo apt-get upgrade -y", "sudo systemctl start systemd-timesyncd", "sudo systemctl enable systemd-timesyncd" 11. Edit config.txt by running "sudo nano /boot/config.txt". Scroll to the bottom and type "dtoverlay=pwm-2chan". Reboot your Pi. 12. Run "sudo raspi-config". Select "5 Interfacing Options" and "P7 1-Wire". Enable one-wire interface. While you're at it, you can disable SPI too. 13. Reboot your Pi and install reef pi. Do a Google search to find the latest code to use to download the latest version of reef pi. Remember to select the correct code you're using because these are written specific to different versions of the Raspberry Pi. 14. Connect to your Pi again, and run "ping raspberrypi.local". Copy the IP address of your Pi and enter it into your browser. This will take you to the login page for reef pi. The default username and password are both "reef-pi". Key those in, and sign in. Next I've already set up my Pi as detailed above. I've recently placed orders for the other things I would need for: a. 8 channel relay b. PH meter c. Temperature meter These are the first three things I'll be trying to do, but for now I'm still waiting for parts to arrive.
  4. 5 points
    Yep Dr Tim Hovanec sure does know his bacteria. I think over time many companies have got a little better at this. Brightwell certainly has improved and is a good source too. But I trust Dr Tim's products. I use the one and only as well as the eco balance and also have the waste away product. If you watch his MACNA presentation (via youtube) on how to use bacteria to cycle a tank, he gives some great tips on how to get through a good cycle. Well worth the time to watch. Good luck Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  5. 4 points
    Just sharing on what i would do 1. From ur pics, it seems not serious, maybe not even disease, maybe sand or scratches. 2. Before u start any treatment, think of any reason why ur fish is infected? did u intro new fish or something? if not maybe its not disease. 3. Generally clownfish are tough buggers. they can take a bit of beating unlike the tangs which can GG fast. I would monitor first to see if it worsens, if worsen to picture below i would take action. Monitor their appetite and breathing. 4. Its best to set up quarantine for treatment. My clowns infected by brook b4, i did a freshwater dip to alleviate the condition, how to dip? you can ask mr google for more info. for me i take rodi water and let the fish swim inside for 3mins, include airstone for oxygenation. monitor closely for stress( heavy breathing) stop immediately if there is. 5. after dip, transfer to QT, i treat with copper( cupramine) dosage go slow. 6. lastly, disclaimer: as every lifestock response is different, i cannot guarantee the outcome, pls proceed at your own risk. I am just sharing what i did. Good Luck bro! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  6. 4 points
    Congratulation to all the winners ! Prizes by Value ( Highest to Lowest ) 1) AI 64 HD LED x 1 2) Clarisea SK5000 roller filter x 1 3) SPS Mystery pack ( 5 frags Worth $500 ) 4) Zoas Mystery pack (5 frags Worth $500) 5 ) Fauna Marin Balling set x 1 6) HARDCOREREEFER magnetic frag station petite x 1 7) Coral RX Industrial x 1 8) Coral RX Pro x 1 9 to 11 ) Vitalis Mini Marine Glazer 110g 12 to 16 ) Viatlis Algae pellet XS 60g 17 to 26) Coral RX Single Shot coral Dip 27 to 36 ) DD Coral Glass 37 to 42 ) Glue Onz coral Glue Winning List ( First to Last after removing duplicated name list ) 1) Darren Sim 2) soggycookies 3) RayTCZ 4) SubzeroLT 5) LittleNat1 6) MarCal 7) danano 8) victorchantm 9) Law88 10) Teck pang 11) Admiraltian 12) nuclear_fibre 13) R0B 14) Nick Ang 15) David 16) ZmasonJ 17) SaltySpivia 18) Clement Chen 19) yakh0o 20) Snoopyhamburger 21) Sherilyn91 22) brannonong 23) C.ZhengXi 24) jem 25) Patrick 26) Chronos 27) titustitus 28) josephwzr 29) chocolate98 30) pcw 31) reefercoral 32) zander 33) Daniel Poh Yang Zheng 34) milu_kaka 35) noobzpro 36) nico 37) nec 38) clementesia 39) CarnivorousGhecko 40) acodestny 41) teck4300 42) alvarogr
  7. 4 points
    Hoping to add more color forms of jawbreakers to collection.
  8. 4 points
    Currently the Kalk stirrer is hooked to the Apex & switches ON for 2min. Once every hour. Quite a waste to use the Apex for this simple purpose. Tried using one of those standard smart wifi power plugs. But those only allow a max of about 16 events (i.e. 8x on + 8x off) This is not enough for the kalk stirrer. Objective of this mini project was to free up one plug on the Apex so it can be put into better close loop control of equipment (instead of just using as a standard timer) Using an FRM01 timer board. Set to Function 5 T1 = 2min, T2 = 60min The trigger button is added to manually trigger the stirrer to switch on. Case part is printed. Box is mounted to a 'dry' section of the cabinet.
  9. 4 points
    Some backdated Softies corner topdown shots
  10. 4 points
    Since we are all safely quarantined at home I wonder what DIY projects my fellow reefers have been up to? To start you off I thought I would share my DIY ATS. I wanted a small ATS to fit on my sump and supplement a refugium and weight for weight an ATS will remove more nitrates. Here is the cut list...(pic1) 5mm Black Acrylic • 210mm x 200mm (qty 1 for base. Mine was 150mm wide as I only planned on using one light due to my needs) • 100mm x 170mm (qty 2 for sides) • 100mm x 210mm (qty 1 for lid) • 150mm x 10mm (qty 2 for support rails) 4.5mm polycarbonate solid clear transparent • 200mm x 170mm (qty 2 for windows) • 199mm x 79mm (qty 1 optional for lid) Cost of materials was around $25 from Dama. [email protected] (ask for Yuki) I also picked up a 20w grow light from shopee $19 each. Then I needed some plumbing (pic2) cost was around $20. For my design I was going to have the water drain down into sump, so I wanted two drainage holes. One would be for main drainage and the other will have a taller pipe inside for emergency drainage. Pics 3 shows the diamond drill bit I used to make the holes and pic 4 the construction of the base using acrylic glue. The light will sit on the lip and the tank connectors are used to screw into the base for drainage (you could always have it come out of a side wall) Pic 5 is final construction. I used a 16mm pipe for the spray bar. Drilled in a few holes and added some knitting material for the GHA to grow. Pic 6... that lovely pink glow! Hopefully the GHA will be growing soon. Hmmm just have to finish the tank now hahaha. Anyways, what have you reefers been upto in Circuit Breaker?? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  11. 4 points
    Obviously the best bio media is in your tank in the form of sand and rock. If you are going bare bottom or looking to give your bacterial population a boost additonal bio media is certainly useful. There are many manufacturers out there, each saying their's is the best. In my experience they all can work well, but it depends on your situation and usage. Here is my $0.02 worth of advice... One of the most popular is Marine Pure which has amazing water absorption qualities but in my own experience is way too fragile. You can only really place it in slow moving areas which overtime means it becomes a detritus trap. To me if the water flow is too slow then the pores will clog and you end up with a nitrate battery as opposed to a place where beneficial bacteria can thrive. As such having a media that is capable of being used in a slightly faster moving water flow was important. As such I moved to use Maxspect nano tech bio media which is way more durable and comes in both plates and spheres. I use the plates inbetween a baffle between my skimmer section and the return section and the spheres are placed in an overflows from my refugium. I find it to be less porous then either the marine pure or the brightwell bricks (another good media) but it doesnt shed tiny grains everywhere, and as I run some wavemakers in my sump the Maxspect suits my purpose. Brightwell mentioned above is a good brick from what I have seen and read but for me it was too bulky. With space in mind I also have Siporax 25 which I also find to be a good media and is popular in Europe, it is smaller and fits neatly in another overflow section I have. Hope that helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  12. 4 points
    (Copying previous post on the subject...) RODI systems first removes sediments, silt, clay... The carbon filter and RO membrane remove any unwanted chemicals like chlorine, chromium, pesticides. The DI resin typically focuses on the removal of heavy metals like copper. Combined they remove impurities, microorganisms, disinfection byproducts, inorganic chemicals, organic chemicals, and even naturally occuring radioactive nuclides! Now whilst Declorinated tap water is okay to use short term all the above elements even in extremely small ppm/ppb will build up over time (Silicone even absorbs heavy metals). This will start to cause issues for you. Tap water vs. RODI... imho It's the difference between breathing in the haze and clean fresh air. Both will keep me alive, but I know which one I would prefer. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  13. 4 points
    Don't need to buy. I stay punggol, will go bk chk whether I can harvest and pass some to you.
  14. 4 points
    Spent last week or so collecting a few more pieces from fellow reefers. Think I'm pretty much done with the bottom of the tank. Need to reposition some of the corals but generally it is starting to look full. Now to hunt down all the sps. Had some minor issues the past week dkh swinging then refusing to come up no matter how much I increased the dosage. So after I lost 1 frag, which broke my heart, I decided to do a quick 10% wc on Thursday night. Things looked alot better on Friday so I skipped the second 10% wc I was planning and decided to set the wc to 5L daily over the course of 24 hours. Will see how this works out for the tank. If the corals respond positively I will probably continue to do this perpetually. Seeing as I only need to top up my wc station every 12 to 15 days with a daily 5L wc. With the lift in indo coral export ban fingers crossed the prices will come down somewhat and will get some nice pieces this year.
  15. 3 points
    I got lots of mohawk frags sitting around, if you're a newbie, come collect FOC, easy and fast growing coral for your new tank Otherwise, I would appreciate any amount of $$ haha, you name the price, if you want more i can arrange Collection at 400014
  16. 3 points
    Day 18 What a busy day today! Hooked up my DI system and did a 50% water change. My nitrates and Phosphates were sky high which also means the tank is cycled, must have been the cubes of frozen food i've been 'feeding' the tank during the cycling period. Tank parameters after 50% WC today: kH: 8.3 Calcium: 400ppm Magnesium: 1200ppm Potassium: 370ppm Nitrate: 50ppm Phosphate: 0.5ppm Now time to show some new equipments! I decided to get the Noopsyche K7 Pro II LED simply because it fits my budget, is very similar (or identical) spectrum wise to the Hydra 26 and has a single kessil-like lens per led puck. Turns out they are really well-built and the colors blending are awesome! The single dome lens perfectly blends each individual colors and there is 0 rainbow effect even at the top of my rock scape. Per led puck, there's 3 Cool white, 3 Royal blues, 3 Blues, 1 red, 1 green and 2 violets (400nm and 410nm). It would've been perfect if 1 of the cool whites were swapped with a warm white led. Another plus point is that all but the violets are Osram LEDs. With the provided mounting arm, i must say it complements the Red sea Reefer 170 really well. Well, the controller is not the most user friendly and the technology felt like a decade old. So i got the Jebao SLW-20M (wifi version) and as compared to the MP10, its size is really compact! To be fair, i should've included the rubber magnet used to angle the jebao wavemaker in this comparison photo. I personally preferred the Jebao over the Mp10 here because it has a much wider flow and i am able to angle the WM to point at an angled direction. The only bad point over the MP10 would be the cord visible in the tank. The jebao app is surprisingly easy to connect and use. Next up is my skimmer! I went for this interesting skimmer from BM because of the limited space i have in the sump, since i am adding a UAS, UV and possibly a reactor for phosphate removal media. The BM Z7 is well built and really easy to assemble, the design is well thought out with a drain outlet from the skimmer 'cup'. now this is exactly why i chose this model! It fits perfectly in the cut out section right infront of the filter cup area. I also found this container (at daiso) that fits the only space left in my sump and its perfect for 2 parts and a skimmate collection cup! I will end this update with a FTS with the Noopsyche led at 100% on all 5 channels. It is blindingly bright and i initially thought i might need 2 sets because of my scape, but the spread so far is pretty good. The shimmer is amazing too!
  17. 3 points
    Stay Home , Stay Safe Reef At Home Contest During this Circuit Breaker period, when every reefer is staying at home, why not get active with your tank and stand a chance to win some PRIZES !! We are co-operating with our forum sponsor with some fun for every reefers to continue staying Home and Stay Safe during this period , do let's just get started ! HOW TO ENTER 1) START a Tank build thread, or UPDATE your existing tank build thread in the forum. Our Members tank thread forum can be found here. Every 5 Post Count in this section during this period entitled TO ONE ENTRY . Bonus entry 2) Start / Create a NEW Thread under the DIY section Found here to share any useful DIY trick and tips ** Having done the point #1 will entitle each member with ONE ENTRY, whereas processing point #2 will entitled you with an ADDITIONAL ENTRY chances to win prizes. The More You Post / Share the higher your chance of WINNING. !! Once you have COMPLETED the official entry requirements, do remember to make a POST A REPLY IN THIS THREAD to let us know that you have already DID ! Prizes for Grab 1) AI 64 HD LED x 1 2) Clarisea SK5000 roller filter x 1 3) Glue Onz coral glue x 10 4) DD Coral glasses x 10 5 ) Fauna Marin Balling set x 1 6 ) Viatlis Algae pellet XS 60g x 5 7) Vitalis Mini Marine Glazer 110g x 5 8 ) Coral RX industrial x 1 9 ) Coral RX Pro x 1 10 ) Coral RX Single shot coral dip x 10 11) SPS Mystery pack ( 5 frags Worth $500 ) - 1 12) Zoas Mystery pack (5 frags Worth $500) - 1 13) HARDCOREREEFER magnetic frag station petite x 1 There are in TOTAL 48 PRIZES TO BE WON !! Drawing of Prizes and Notification of Winnings *** Updated 30.04.2020*** Entries accepted from 19th April through 01th June 2020. The winner will be chosen by an online random draw generator and announced will be make after 04th May 2020, in this thread here. The winner's username will be tagged in the winning announcement and notify via PM in the forum . Be sure to check back to claim your prize. If it is not claimed within 7 days we may do a re-pick and so on until the prize is claimed.. Special Thanks to the Following for help support and sponsoring the Prizes ReefDepot , ReefMarketSG , Hardcoreefer , Specialist Aquatic Solutions , Suprem3 Corals
  18. 3 points
    Everything is settled so time to let the tank cycle for 3-4 months. Following WWC cycling methods. Gotten this second hand Maxspect IVC6 from one of the reefer last week. This allows me to control my Gyre xf350 thru app. I dislike the ideal of not including this ICV6 controller in the Gyre 2 pump set. We have to get it separately. Overall it’s quite easy to set it up. Using pump A for my main tank. Set 08:00 - 00:00 As random mode (highest 40% power) 00:00 - 08:00 As pulsing mode (highest 30% power) Overall I find the Gyre XF350 is really strong. It managed to push water across 4 ft with just 30% power. I’m very satisfied with the pump so far. Went over to dama to get another acrylic to replace my filter wool. Personally I don’t like how to follow at this section to my filter wool. It doesn’t fully utilised the filter wool so I’ve decided to switch it out with 2 4” filter sock to trap any large particles coming up from the medias. I really prefer the water flow now. [emoji1303] Currently also in the mist of setting up a simple small QT for coral and fish tank to ensure all the unnecessary pests won’t be in my display tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. 3 points
    Hi. Welcome to my little box of water build thread. Over the next few posts I am going to go into some detail about my system setup and the choices I made. I hope you find it useful, not just to see what goes into a reef tank, but also the reasoning behind why I selected what I did. So first off some background, I have been reefing for 8+ years and I am just about to 'start' my fourth tank. It is a 510L system (sump, tank and connected mini 40L frag-tank). The main display is 42 inches (107cm) by 30 inches (76cm) and is 20 inches (50cm) high. It isn't a massive display tank, but with a good height and depth I hope to do something interesting with. The aim is an SPS dominated system with a semi-minimalist rockscape creating some negative space for the fish the actively swim in and to provide some room for a few clams and LPS islands. So, when I say i am about to 'start' that isn't technically correct as the tank is actually already setup and has been 'cycling' for nearly 10 weeks now (The aim is to follow WWC's 16 week initial cycle). I hope to bring everything I learnt from my previous success and failures in the hobby. What is so awesome about keeping a little bit of the ocean within our homes or offices is that the hobby is always moving forward always changing. As technology and knowledge improve it is getting easier to succeed, so with my new setup I see it as a great opportunity to use the latest tools and techniques. I also see this tank as a testbed for some ideas I have around automation. My idea of a low maintenance tank is one that uses te technology to run itself. What I have learnt in the hobby is that you need to make good decisions on your tank. They ultimately save you money. Yes, there are normal constraints like budget or size or even knowhow, but I managed to scrape together some interesting tools and it didn't cost the earth either. Luckily knowledge is something that is free. So I decided to write out a set of objectives for the tank and plan accordingly. Tank Objective: To design a tank that is easy to maintain and uses various systems and tools to run itself with minimal intervention (as I am not always around to look after it). To improve my chances of success it should be a controllable, stable, pest free, ultra low nutrient tank. The tank should be stocked with attractive corals and interesting utilitarian fish and invertebrates. In the next post I will go into some detail about how I planned to achieve this... Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  20. 3 points
    I believe the reason being livestock people will want to see and select taking a lot more time at the LFS/shop while hardware is you take and go and like you mentioned. We don't buy hardware regularly. Some people I know like to visit LFS/shop at least 2 to 3 times coz nothing to do. That's before this Covid situation. Technically, we are not suppose to go to reefer's house and we should be using courier if you follow strictly and this should be the option. Coz remember this is non essential meetup and the person might be fine for such act. LFS/shop are basically opened to sell the fish food/medication which we needed with a safe distancing measure.
  21. 3 points
    3D printing is getting more popular in the past years. And there are quite a few reefers here who have 3D printers at home. Starting a thread to share some mini projects. My full tank project can be seen here : http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/topic/142862-my-slice-of-nature-part-3/ Comments, feedback & new ideas are welcome. Kicking off with a reactor adapter for Nyos skimmer. Using this with biopellet reactor will ensure all the slime & bacteria from the biopellet reactor goes directly to the skimmer instead of going to the display tank where there may be a risk of causing cyano. Assembling it onto the Nyos skimmer inlet
  22. 3 points
    RODI SETUP: It is said that reefing is simply about keeping good water. Whilst one could argue there are many other aspects, water quality for sure is key without it you wont be going very far. Hence, for my new set up I wanted to make sure that I had good quality RODI water. So first off why would one need RODI vs. Dechlorinated water? Singapore is awesome, and they have amazing quality water. I get 68TDS for my water from the tap, that is typically cleaner then rain water, Great job PUB Singapore! Still for reef needs 68 TDS is still too high. So what does an RODI system do? Firstly RODI systems remove sediments, silt, clay... (it's amazing just how dirty the sediment filter gets from tap water!). Typically a four stage system will have one 5 micron sediment filter. (Bigger systems can couple this with a further 1 Micron filter). Secondly the carbon filters and RO membrane(s) remove any unwanted chemicals like chlorine, chromium, pesticides. The DI resin typically focuses on the removal of heavy metals like copper as well as some acids. Combined they remove impurities, microorganisms, disinfection byproducts, inorganic chemicals, organic chemicals, and even naturally occuring radioactive nuclides! Now whilst Declorinated tap water is okay to use short term all the above elements even in extremely small ppm/ppb will build up over time (Silicone even absorbs heavy metals). This will start to cause issues (typically algae related) for you. My system is currently 7 stages. 1x 5micron sediment filter, 2x Carbon, 2x RO membranes in water saver configuration (the waste water of the first membrane goes into the input of the second filter, and both RO membrane accepted water are joined together). I run 2x DI resin filters. The idea here is to hold the Cation and the Anion resins separately. Typically they deplete at different rates so only one needs to be replaced versus a single mixed bed resin setup that you replace both resins when just one of them depletes. My system also comes with a micro controller, which auto flushes the system, along with keeping track of water quality (alarms come on if water quality is poor). Flushing makes the RO membranes last much longer. In the end you only need a system that produces 0 TDS, additional stages and control systems do nothing more then make the unit more efficient. Whilst the micro controller is awesome, simple systems off lazada will work too. Hope that helps. Happy reefing everyone Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  23. 3 points
    A flower bouquet for MOTHER'S DAY
  24. 3 points
    OBJECTIVE 3: PEST FREE: The aim here is to use effective preventative quarantine procedures, medication and observation to reduce the probability of pests entering my system. The hope is to achieve ICH and disease irradication in my fish (plus learn a new reefing skill), and for the Corals it is all about pest identification and removal. Note. In addition to chemicals and medications I will also use the natural ecosystem to keep pests at bay. Wrasses, Cleaner shrimp, file fish etc etc In order to implement I have two small cheap 20L tanks which have their own HOB waterfall filters and link to a DIY chiller. Also I monitor Ammonia via the Seachem Badge which is really handy. The tanks allow for me to perform the 'two tank transfer' method as well as prophylactic medication of the fish. In addition to the two tanks I have a 50L observation tank for corals I picked up second hand, and a small 10L tanks for coral bathing. (Just a tip I got hold of a glass marker and i use it to write on the face of the tank what treatment is currently happening, is good to keep track as to what meds are in the tank and when you need to transfer them again). CORAL Corals are removed from plugs and dipped in the 10L tank with some Coral RX. The tank has a small circulating pump (want to find a mini wavemaker). After 30 mins they are inspected woth a magnifying glass and then placed in to the 50L tank where they stay for at least a month. They are dipped a few extra times during their stay in quarantine. For my dips I use Byer, RX and Hydrogen Peroxide (if I know the coral can handle it). Why quaratine coral? Well, just to give you an idea. I picked up some frags from fellow reefers prior to the covid CB, between them the frags had Aiptasia, Vermetid Snails, Red Bugs, Nudibranch and various worms. I would hate to imagine what would happen if I placed all of those pests directly in my tank. My rule is simple. NOTHING gets into my tank that hasn't been quarantined and is pest free (I even quaratined the macroalgae!) FISH As for the fish they initially get a commercial dip before going for a fresh water swim for 3-5 mins. After that initial treatment they are placed into one of the 20L tanks, which is what I use for the two tank transfer method. The tranfer method basically involves keeping the fish for 72 hours in one tank before moving them into another tank. This is repeated four to five times. Each time you do it you clean out the old tank, to make it sterile. The two tank method significantly reduces the probability that ICH is still on the fish. I fresh water dip during transfers just to make sure any flukes etc are gone and to make sure there is limited water droplets transferred from one tank to the next. I use water from the main display so the fish are acclimated to the main tank at all times. During the first tank transfers I use methleyne blue to remove any fungal disease. For the second and third I use Prazipro. For the third and fourth transfer I also treat with the likes of metroplex, kanaplex or neoplex (which you can bind to fishes food with the use of Focus). If a specific fish is susceptible to a particular ailment i will tailor the treatment. The tanks also have a dedicated mini 9w UV to kill any free floating parasites. Well that is the hope. Obviously if a fish has a particular issue then I treat for that. After the transfer method is complete. I move the fish for a fifth time and treat with copper for 15 days. All in all it takes about four weeks and the fish are ready to go into the main display. Honestly, yes it is a big pain in the butt as if you miss the transfer window you have to start over, but once you get into a rhythm it doesn't take too long to do. To me having healthy fish and corals is important. There is something rewarding letting the little fishes out after quaratine knowing you did what you could to improve their health. Anyway I hope that gives you a good idea of what my quarantine set up is like. Next update I will start to discuss one of the most important aspects of the reefing hobby, the water! Until then happy reefing. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  25. 3 points
    Managed to take a pic of the underside of this beauty
  26. 3 points
    Objective 2: Stability. I plan on using a combination of known tools and techniques along with the latest technology to ensure that the parameters are super stable (or at least ensure that change happens in a controlled and purposeful manner based on real data). The aim here is to use 'old school' reefing techniques to get the water parameters close to where the tank needs them to be (each tank is different). However, to ensure exact stability I plan to use automated testing and control systems to control dosing. These will come in the form of the new GHL ION Director (still on order... with Covid19 impact I suspect August delivery) and the GHL KH director. So how will these be used exactly? Well, let's look at the case of keeping Calcium stable as an example. Imagine there is a need to keep calcium at say 440. The idea is to use a Calcium Reactor to cover the base need and get into the 410+ range. The good news is that Calcium reactors are actually Alkalinity and trace element Reactors too, they are also sudo 'set it and forget it' kind of tools, hence fairly low maintenance.. They look complex but are actually reasonably simple. Pegging the calcium reactor to a specific PH will dissolve the media at a set rate. Changing how much of the effluent enters the tank will allow me to control the level of Alkalinity and Calcium. Additionally i plan on adding Kalkwasser. Line water has been used for years to increase the levels of calcium, but there are often issues attached to how this is implemented or overused. Anyways I will again use my doser to control. The idea is to use it sparingly to boost the calcium and bring this up to say c.435. Kalkwasser will also increase the PH to offset the CR effluent which is rather acidic. Finally, and this is where the latest technology comes into play, I intend to implement an automated testing system that measures Calcium throughout the day (the GHL ION director can test calcium 24 times a day without the need for reagents). This ION director will be linked to my dosing pumps to contol the level of calcium that is then dosed via traditional balling supplements. In allowing the system to just control a small amount of dosing I can ensure that no catastrophic overdosing or underdosing will occur. But the tank should see a vary stable level of calcium. The idea is that if demand increases the doser will automatically adjust upwards its dosing amount (if I see this need continue as a trend in the long term I can just dial up the flow rate on the CR to set a new base level). If demand decreases then the doser will reduce the amount of calcium dosed (similarly if this is a longer term need - maybe I removed a coral - then we can simply dial back the flow rate on the CR). Stability is key. Similarly Alkalinity will not only be delivered via the calcium reactor but the final level of control will be via the GHL KH director which will be in charge of the most important task of keeping ALK in check. It will test Alkalinity about three times a day and make minor alk dosing adjustments accordingly. ...It will be interesting to see if this works! Haha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  27. 3 points
    Quick iphone pics from today Side view Following up on the Apex temperature probe. This is what the final implementation looks like. 3D printed tube mount (left side for sump level float switch). Right side to hold the Apex temperature probe. Using the dremel to cut & later grind off the plastic pipe to ensure a perpendicular cut Installed in sump It works This resolves the issue where temperature probe is out of water when excessive water is removed (eg. water removed when fragging or acclimatizing fish). And yet ensures the tip part is not under water when the return pump is off.
  28. 3 points
    Since installing the Ecotech Versa peristaltic pump last month, it was possible to better control the dosing rate & time to dose. And hence gave me the motivation to improve the kalk stirrer. Decided to re-do the stirrer box with better water proofing & cable management. The drawing here shows the feature to hold the speed controller PCB in place. Using a good quality PC fan (uses ball bearings). A PWM speed controller. And a couple of magnets. The top & bottom halves were printed with ABS material. Total time about 32 hours (top & bottom) halves. View of the kalk set up. Programmed to dose 2L from 12am to 12pm. And 200cc from 12pm to 12am. In this way, the bulk of the kalk is added during night time where pH is lowest.
  29. 3 points
    Last FTS taken on Sep 2019
  30. 3 points
    Hi Guys and lady I have a 2.5ft tank, having so much problem to put my dosing pump. As you can see my sump tank no much space left Ended up I drill two hole at my wall and install my coral box dosing pump. I felt good and save a lot of my space. I am sure you guys thinking what I am thinking. Will the light affect the liquid right beside ? I put a black cover to block the light and heat. I am thinking to put a wallpaper on TOP of my dosing pump like what S3 are selling. Hope my DIY can give you guys and lady more ideas. Happy reefing ! Never give up on a bad experience Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  31. 3 points
    Full tank shot Side view Side view before lights on
  32. 3 points
    My opinion is that high porosity no doubt can house more bacteria but its double edge sword as more porous will likely mean less integrity, common sense actually. So its up to individual reefers needs and how to use..every media got their own advantage and disadvantage bah.. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  33. 3 points
    Took some quick pics yesterday. Check out my Instagram for the IDs. @ Chocolatereef [emoji28][emoji16] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  34. 3 points
    Collection at punggol at my convenience. Pls dont ask for pics. Standard rbta. Small size. Priority given to reefer that can collect at my convenience. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  35. 3 points
    no problem, thats what forums are for, to share exp and knowledge, last piece of advise, since urs is custom tank, do plan your equipment around ease of maintenance. i am no expert but base on my journey so far, Stability of water params, reliability of equipment, ease of maintenance and lastly automation (optional) is key to successful reef tank. the automation part is to prepare the transition from hardworking reefer to lazy reefer lol.. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  36. 3 points
    that is a bad idea, 1 pump dead = all dead Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  37. 3 points
    First off, Dechlorinated water vs. RODI.... We are so lucky in Singapore to have some of the cleanest water available, but it still contains various elements that you wouldn't want in a reef tank! RODI systems firstly remove sediments, silt, clay... (it's amazing just how dirty my sediment filter gets from tap water!). The carbon filter and RO membrane remove any unwanted chemicals like chlorine, chromium, pesticides. Whilst the DI resin typically focuses on the removal of heavy metals like copper. Combined they remove impurities, microorganisms, disinfection byproducts, inorganic chemicals, organic chemicals, and even naturally occuring radioactive nuclides! Now whilst Declorinated tap water is okay to use short term all the above elements even in extremely small ppm/ppb will build up over time (Silicone even absorbs heavy metals). This will start to cause issues for you. Tap water vs. RODI... imho It's the difference between breathing in the haze and clean fresh air. Both will keep me alive, but I know which one I would prefer. Where to learn about corals??? YouTube is excellent. BRSTV is fantastic at putting together informative videos about gear and how best to implement a successful reef tank. For Corals specifically look for videos from "Tidal Gardens". Than Theim with his smooth voice will teach you everything you need to know about each different type of coral and much more.. Reefbuilders is another good website and YouTube channel. If you want I know "Reefbum" on youtube even has a subscription tutorial along with a book which is step by step guide to setting up and maintaining a successful reef tank. Reefdude, Reefnerd, reef dork, Reefman, Milehighreefers, Parker's reef, Aaron's aquarium, Fishofhex, americanreefchannel, and inappropriate reefer are all interesting channels to name but a few. Reef2reef is a great resource on every topic, from quarantine through to programming your Apex or GHL. Brands.... I have honestly wasted thousands buying cheaper gear, killing corals and fish, then slowly upgrading (please dont tell the wife). My advice to you is get the best from the beginning. If i was starting out again i wish i had gone with an established package (like a red sea ref tank.. plus all the trimmings) from your LFS. Or pick up a decom system here! If you want to build it up yourself BRSTV did a 'best of 2019' series, it's a good place to start to figure out what is what. Good luck. If you need any help just ask here there are many reefers here willing to help and guide where we can. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  38. 3 points
    -Artica 1/5hp Chiller $750 -2 sets of Philips coral care led with controller $2000 -Seatorch beast 160 protein skimmer $800 Self collect teban garden Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  39. 3 points
    Have quite few frags to clear. All have been matured and establish on plugs for 5 weeks now. Pink pulsing Xenias $12 per frag plug Green Leather $12 per frag plug also have one green lumi mushroom $12 buy any 2 for $20. collect from 436606. Please PM if keen. thanks.
  40. 3 points
    Hanna Instruments shipment arrived! Proceed to our showroom, or nearest LFS to grab one! Alternatively, you can make a purchase off our website at www.deaquatic.com
  41. 3 points
    Bro can trade with your im25 lagoon. Will deliver to you! Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  42. 3 points
    My new macro algae display I believe it’s two weeks in
  43. 3 points
    $150/head Whatsapp 92343599 if interested! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  44. 3 points
    These are common mushrooms selling cheap in LFS.
  45. 2 points
    Temporary closure of Pasa Malam Buy/Sell/Swop section Inline with being Social responsible against SG Government Circuit Breaker period to stay at home during this period, and to prevent any social contact, we will temporary close the Pasa Malam Buy/ Sell and Swop section until 04th May 2020. Stay Safe and healthy and together we can overcome this ! #SGunited #sgreefclub
  46. 2 points
    1) Fuji Organ Pipe @ $35 2) Green Plate @ $30 3) Red Mushroom (4polys)@ $20 4) Acan @ $30 5) Purple Photosynthetic Sea Fan @ $20 6) Torch Coral (2 Head) @ $20 7) 3x Star Spiny Astrea Snails @ $5 Collect at Sembawang
  47. 2 points
    Ups Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  48. 2 points
    with attached photo Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  49. 2 points
    Hi, dont recall seeing it, do call them to confirm. U may want to try calling pinnacle to check also. All the best.
  50. 2 points
    I don't mean to be a wet blanket, but I would hardly consider a 2 month old tank to be a success story. Granted, some of the advice that you have received may seem a little extreme, but it is important to note the purpose behind those advice. It depends on your ultimate goal, what you want to achieve for your tank, and applying the knowledge that you have acquired to get it done.


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