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Hi Fuel, The formula for guillard's is below: 1) NaNO3 (Sodium Nitrate) 2) NaH2PO4 H2O(Sodium Phosphate in water form) 3) Na2SiO3 9H2O (Sodium Silicate in water form) (Have to ignore this as it's for diatoms culture not plankton) 4) Trace & Vitamin I'm no phd in chemistry but i've done some research and i believe it can be subsituted with the below: 1) NaNO3 (Sodium Nitrate) -> Urea: (NH2)2CO 2) NaH2PO4 H2O(Sodium Phosphate in water form) -> Mono-Potassium Phosphate: (KH2PO4) 3) Na2SiO3 9H2O (Sodium Silicate in water form) (Have to ignore this as it's for growing diatoms not plankton) 4) Trace & Vitamin -> i purchased a seachem trace and vitamin which contains all the ingredients The reason for subsitution is because Sodium(Na) could be found in salt (Sodium Cloride), Hydrogen (H) and Oxygen (O) makes up water (H2O), Carbon © and Oxygen (O) makes up carbon dioxide (CO2). Potassium (K), i last checked is not harmful in anyway even in large quantity and is actually required for all plants in the world. Plankton culture is therefore limited to only nitrate, phosphate, trace and vitamin. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urea Urea: "In the soil, it hydrolyses back to ammonia and carbon dioxide. The ammonia is oxidized by bacteria in the soil to nitrate which can be absorbed by the plants" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopotassium_phosphate What's good about dosing separately is that you can control which of the ingrdients u want in, nitrate, phosphate or trace and vitamin. Normally, due to the external factors eg lighting, temperature, ph, plankton will not consume all the ingredients in equal ratio. Nitrate will often nitrify, resulting in extra phosphate but lack of nitrate. To dose guillard will be adding phosphate and nitrate causing phosphate buildup. Thanks.

Hi, Selling 2 kind of fertilizer for culturing of phytoplankton: 1) Urea: (NH2)2CO 2) Mono-Potassium Phosphate: (KH2PO4) Phytoplankton culturing requires 3 main kind of macro-nutrients : Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphate. Also required are micro-nutrients (could be purchased at any marine shops, trace minerals) Recommended dosage ratio is 5:1 (nitrogen:phosphate) (best to test for nitrate and phosphate before harvesting and dosing into tank) Selling both in crystal form (soluable in water), in tao huay box, $15 for Urea and $30 for mono-potassium phosphate.

Hi, Selling 2 kind of fertilizer for culturing of phytoplankton: 1) Urea: (NH2)2CO 2) Mono-Potassium Phosphate: (KH2PO4) Phytoplankton culturing requires 3 main kind of macro-nutrients : Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphate. Also required are micro-nutrients (could be purchased at any marine shops, trace minerals) Recommended dosage ratio is 5:1 (nitrogen:phosphate) (best to test for nitrate and phosphate before harvesting and dosing into tank) Selling both in crystal form (soluable in water), in tao huay box, $15 for Urea and $30 for mono-potassium phosphate.

Think that 7% is custom duty tax from US or Singapore. If Irwana have then tats good! Anyone knows if they have stock? How much they selling?

Hi, Anyone interested in Berghia Nudibranches? The natural aiptasia predator. Going to purchase from www.berghia.net. Was thinking if anyone interested, can buy in bulk and save shipping cost. They selling USD$25 per adult with USD$90 shipping. 7% duty tax. (ard SGD$180 total) Anyone interested to buy at SGD$70 per adult? (if any extra i earn ) They are doing some reset of breeding and only available end of august. Please also read up on Berghia if interested.

Hi, Selling equipment not in use: 1) Hang-on filter bought $30+ used 3mths FOC: some leftover filter media Condition:9.5/10 Selling $15 2) Air pump Condition:9.5/10 Selling $5 Collection Bishan

hello, interested to upgrade my 2ft tank to a bigger tank but no money so just trying my luck. haha. thanks.

optimal parameters & flow, increase lighting, abitbit nutrients, patience

i not expert but I think i read somewhere before, if lighting spectrum 7.5k coral will turn brown but grow very fast. 10k lighting corals color will be best but growth normal. maybe ur lights too old nvr change? If if ur lights abt yellowish then its e problem. Most prob lighting issue, otherwise water to much nutrients (phosphate, nitrate) causing zooxanthellae growth but normally coral will expel them. Hope i'm right.

Hi, Would like to trade a frag of the zoo below. Picture from original owner. Frag got ard 13 polyps. Kindly send me picture of ur zoo/coral u'll like to trade with. Trade at bishan if possible. Thk.

Hi, Anyone got chaeto to sell? trade near bishan area.

I assuming u guys are refering to florida ricordea. Ricordea's flow must be low. U know its too high when it's flapping its wings too often and eventually it will detach itself and fly around the tank. If ur ricordea comes with a small base then superglue to the rock. Lighting will change the colours over time. I have orange, pink and yellow ricordea turning blue starting from the mouths outwards. Brighter lights yields brighter colours but be careful to slowly introduce them light very slowly as they bleach when surprised. Ready to move to higher lighting when they open up big. They thrive in nutrients rich water. Additions of iodine is benifitial. Feed them with mysis shrimp once a week, they grow faster. They capture really slow (like 1 hr) and must have almost stagnent water else the shrimp will be blown away, their polyps dun stick to the prey like other corals do. Very easy to keep, just dun let them touch any corals nearby, your ricordea almost confirm win. Only challange is finding a really low flow area with enough light. I do this for ricordea without base or for propagation: Propagation just cut into half. Make sure u only propagate healthy ones. Put in a ALMOST stagnent area let it slowly recover and stick to your preferred base (around 3 weeks time) and there u have 2. NEVER superglue them to the rock raw, they will slime over and detach. my 2 cent.

Hey i've got problem with epoxy too.. at first i try to stick my sps frag in the water with the kneeded eproxy, i press and press the frag to the eproxy, then press and press the eproxy to the rock. Totally wrong way, the eproxy will dissolve in the water making it cloudy then abit flow whole thing fly away. i think the correct way should be taking out the rock and sps frag dry the surface and dry ur hands b4 sticking them. When inside water switch off all flow for 2-3 hr (depending on how strong the flow). I think best way to use them is as dry as possible and as little movement as possible. Chop chop do and put back. My monti dont survive eproxy and sps appear retrached near the base. I prefer use superglue gel where possible.

peace brothers.. upz..

hey i feed mine with sinking fish pellets and they look happier and expand bigger.

I personally feel iodine is important in a reef tank especially for mushrooms, soft coral, gorgonians and macro algae. Inverts that shed their shell also need them. I think the amount to dose depends on the requirment in the tank. Overdosing is often more fatal than underdosing so i add a drop every 2-3 days. Dun think it can be meaningfully measured by test kits since its so little a trace element. Someone even told me it adds color to coral (havent research and proven this thou). Would be more glad if ppl can share their experience on dosing effect.

Upz.. Still got 10 more..

upz.. still got like 12pcs.

Hi, would like to sell my hermit crab. Pic as below, taken with camera phone with 2 HO FL (artic blue and white). Smallest 3cm, biggest 5cm. Raze finish all my algae in 3 days, eating my snails now. Have been eating brown diatoms, red slime algae and hair algae till botak in my tank. Not recommended for tank with snails, otherwise ok. Very active, will climb all over the tank and topple over anything not bonded to the rocks. Very hardy, so far none died after i bought. Around 15 available. Collect at Bishan anytime this week.

Sold and collected. thx.

Hello, anyone wanna trade my green plating frag? I got 4 frags available. I'll like to trade something thats photosync/filter feeder type. (I'm a lazy to feed person) Picture as below: 1) Shows the original full grown coral (middle green one) 2) Shows frag 1 and 2 (side view) left is 1.5cm. right is 8cm. 3) Shows frag 3 and 4 (top view) left is 3 cm. right is 6cm. 4) Shows frag 1, 2 (top view) Pm me with your picture of frag/before frag.

Oh this is a torch/pompom coral not a hammer. They are relatives anyway. Haha. Sorry for my ignorance. Scientific name: Euphyllia glabrescens More info can be found below: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_di...&pcatid=509 http://www.fishforums.net/content/Saltwate...37/Torch-Coral/ http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cl...;articleid=2327 Can host clownfish and powerful sting, so cannot place too near to other coral.

Hi, Selling this hammer with 9 heads. There's a live barnacle in the middle. Too big for my 2 ft tank. When fully extended width is 15cm. Pic taken with camera phone with 2 T5 HO (white & blue) This pic is taken without the hammer fully extending. Side view Top view Collection at Bishan. PM me with a acceptable price.

Hi, Just realised must have a chiller. Buying chiller and pump (hopefully comes with piping). Its for my 2ft tank. No need too power one. Can cool it to 26C can already. My budget for both must be less than $200. Please PM me with ur type, condition, used how long etc. Thanks!