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gp2700

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  1. Hi I'm looking for either a 5000l/hour skimmer pump or a above 800L (min load) protein skimmer, please PM me if you are considering selling yours. Thank you. Andy
  2. Apologies for the late reply, I'll take a picture and post tomorrow, been busy with work.
  3. Hi I've a 4ft x 4ft x 2ft tank to sell as I'll be relocating overseas. Price is negotiable. Interested parties please PM me for details
  4. gp2700

    DIY LED light

    my tank's 4ft x 4ft x 2ft so the area covered is pretty large. About the 12v5a PSU u were using, u could attach a low rpm fan to it if it's the metal casing type to help dissipate the heat. I'll probably post a photo when i get home later.
  5. gp2700

    DIY LED light

    For parallel circuits, try to use a current mirror setup to balance the current from the PSU. More complicated to setup but hey, you want the LEDs to last right ? *grin* I'm currently working on a 16 x 10W LED project and am experimenting with a new idea of have 16 x 10W LED drivers to power them up. The first 4 should be up by end Feb cos I'm still waiting for the shipment to arrive. Series circuits are easier to setup as mentioned by bro Jameshong, the only problem is the PSU. i.e 12V for 1 x LED, 24V for 2 x LED .... 48V for 4 x LED The more LEDs you connect in series, the higher the voltage. Unfortunately, the pricing increases with the voltage as well.
  6. gp2700

    DIY LED light

    bro can elaborate more details ? A few months back I was toying with some 10w LEDs (same spec as yours, 1050mA). I tested it with a 12Vdc5A PSU and to my surprise, it drew close to 3A instead of the 1.05A. This means that if you are using a 12Vdc1A PSU to power each LED, you may be overloading the PSU hence the overheating. Now, if you connect the LEDs in parallel and power it up using a 12Vdc5A PSU, you might be overloading the PSU as well. Kirchhoff's Current Law comes to play here and you'll end up with a huge current draw at the main circuit. But if you use a constant current source, the current supplied is designed to be constant and will not give out more amperes even if the device demands more. Either way can work but alot depends on the circuit design.
  7. Oh, DC watchmaker! Nice , what's the flow rate like ? Depending on the type of motor, the real easy way would probably be to use a motor control shield. Or are you building your own driver? Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
  8. brothers, thanks for all the input and offers. I managed to get a piece of 12VAC power supply (last piece! talk about luck!) and tested it on the 3 wavemakers i had. It works ! Now, I'll be bring that power supply back to office tomorrow morning and hook it up to a oscilloscope to check the waveform. I do have a spoilt unit of wavemaker 4 but I've not the time to clean up the innards yet (lots of salt residue found in the PCB). From the power supply unit, it seems to step down the 240AC to 12VDC and 12VAC. The controller board has only 2 colored cable wires but at different pins. Problem is, I won't know which pin is what until i attempt to repair the board. Disclaimer - I bought this unit knowing there's no warranty and if I burn my house down toying around with it, it's my problem. If anyone attempts to open up their wavemaker controller, please note that you'll be voiding the warranty and if YOU burn your house down, I'm not be to held responsible. Yup, my intention was to use a Arduino to control the speed of the wavemakers. Some notes : 1. I managed to open up the wavemaker cover but am having hard time putting it the front cover back. For the records, I've not owned a Hydor wavemaker before. Anyway, the units are currently soaking in a vinegar solution to soften the calcium build ups, so I'm not worried at the moment. 2. AFAIK, a AC device does not take a PWM control signal but it seems possible to control a AC device with Arduino. http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/ACPhaseControl 3. Worst case scenario, I'll use a triac dimmer as a feeble attempt to control the wavemaker speed and work towards a Arduino solution for that. cheers!
  9. bro tqut, thanks for the input. I'll get a 12VAC power supply and test it tonight.
  10. Sweet! bro, are you familiar with how to operate a multimeter ? Essentially I want to know if the output of the controller (where you plug in the controllable wavemaker) is giving out 12VAC or 12VDC. The reason is because I've 3 controllable wavemakers and only one of them is responding(half spins) to a 12VDC input. I highly suspect it's running on 12VAC but need someone to confirm. Alternatively, if you would be so kind for me drop by your place sometime next week and I'll just take the measurements myself. There won't be any damage to your controller, all I'm doing is to measure the output voltage and verify if it's AC or DC.
  11. Hi guys n girls Just to check around - does anyone have the Hydor Wavemaker 2/4 model can help me out ? Please PM me if you have one, thanks.
  12. bro sherman, no, i'm not a software engineer but it so happens that I did pretty well for my C programming back in my poly days so picking it up again was not a uphill task. It's really not that difficult once you know what you want. The rest is just figuring out the syntax of the programming language. Btw, what and how many LED drivers are you using for your SSC setup?
  13. Agree with bro bezz that both controllers function the same. Only difference is the physical footprint, memory and inputs. Check out this Arduino build. http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=258.0 I think this is one of the more impressive builds I've seen. I'm planning on the same build but will develop the code from scratch - it's often easier to write your own code then to try reverse-engineer someone else's code.
  14. bezz nice! Question for you - what wavemaker are you controlling?
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