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Xtraster last won the day on August 9 2017

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  1. U need not cover the hole once the water drawn up fills the chamber fully.
  2. I think your vacuum broke... u need to cover the hole with your finger to allow water to be drawn upwards... the round black plug with a hole next to cup.
  3. I suspect it has got to do with kh and fish. Try shifting frag lower to rule out light intensity causing it not to open. Just my $0.02.
  4. Few questions to help give us a better picture... water parameters? Kh, ca, mg, no3? U mention po4 not good is ? R fishes disturbing the frag? what dip u used and for how Long? frags at high flow Low flow area? What lighting u are using? U place the frag on sand bed? thanks
  5. Nice! What do you target feed it with? Am considering to buy when iwarna brings it in next round...
  6. Would you have any idea if yellowhead jawfish (body is blue) will also be as difficult as blue spotted jawfish?
  7. The chiller probe and tank water will have difference due to heat gain from surrounding along the way from chiller to tank... the greater the distance between chiller n tank plays a part and also if tank is placed near a heat source like window. I see your concern now as 2 degree difference is not small in my opinion... I would first make sure both readings move in tandem, meaning both have same increase of 1 degree when chiller is at rest and both show same 1 degree drop when the chiller is running. This is to show both temperature probe is working. Next I would borrow or get another temperature measuring device to verify the accuracy of your tank temperature. Just a suggestion if you are concern...
  8. Hi colacoke, i know there are some articles out there to recommend how many snails per gallon tank but personally, I placed 5 snails ( 3 sea star n 2 banded torches) in my tank when I started out a 2 ft all in one tank... 1 died within 6 months but now... they have multiplied to 20 over in a year's time... Guess my tank has good food (algae) for them... dont think there is a rule... place an amount you are comfortable with in your tank... you can always add more clean up crew (different snails or invert) along the way if you need more of them. as for temperature measurement differences... how big a difference is it? What concerns do you have? Are you using a chiller or fan or none? I used a mercury in glass with salinity check when I first started and it is the cheap one... then I depended on the chiller temperature reading after I ended Cycling and begin stocking corals. to act as a check... I added a caperplus (ph cum digital termperature meter) subsequently. I still place the cheap mercury in glass thermometer TOGETHER with caperplus now and both definitely show different temperature AND all 3 (caperplus, chiller and mercury in glass) showed different temperatures within 1 degree range which I'm comfortable without any concern. Usually chiller temp and the tank water difference is about 0.5 degrees. just sharing... let's hear from other seniors here...
  9. I am happy for you that things are turning better for you. Like all seniors here... I would say patience is the key in this hobby for Long term reefing... enjoy the process! regarding clean up crews it is always best to have a variety. Algae eating an get a variety snails. If really bad, Seahorse would be good but this guy is a workhorse and will starve to death once not enough algae... I get sand dollar to move my sand beneath... since you are concern on sand looking dirty... sand shifting crews or some fishes like jawfish may help. My personal experience if I can would be to stay away from wrasse. ;p just my 2 cents worth. Hear from the rest of the seniors ba. Reef on!
  10. I would suggest you dose a little magnesium to bring it up to about 1380... u using Red Sea salt? Mainly Lps coral so no3 at 25 should be ok. Good u r doing weekly water change. U can explore just DI water without RO... otherwise with maturity of tank... I doubt those brown thingy will go away... the accumulation of fresh silicate to other minerals from tap water with every week water change may not be good for the Long run...
  11. Hi CCKOH, I'm no expert but hope my pointers are correct. brown algae on sand is most likely Dino. Algae on glass should be green. Possible reasons for algae bloom are 1) too much nutrients from food breakdown (over feeding) 2) nutrient export is slower than accumulation (do u have ats or refuge or how often u do water change) 3) too Long hours of lighting (reduce length of Max 100%white n blue down to 5 hrs ) 4) water source high silicate (non DI water?) Maybe if you can provide more info of your setup I believe the seniors here will be able to guide you further. otherwise, work on the 4 points above to see if your situation improves? happy reefing!
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