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Starting a nano tank


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Will get a tank from reefer here and live rock , live sand from LFS. Reading somewhere is good to soak the live rock into normal water to get rid of pests. I want to check will the live rock become dead rock if soak into non salty water? How long shall soak the live rock?

LFS also have salty water on sales, is it advisable to get salt water from lfs or mix ourself? Which one can shorter the cycling process?

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I don't think there's an exact way to make the cycle faster or slower, although in my own experience, just cycling with live rock is faster as there's already bacteria there. If you soak your live rock in freshwater, the beneficial bacteria will confirm die, which defeats the purpose of buying live rock in the first place. If you're worried about pests, you should just get dead rock and cycle it yourself.

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As for saltwater, I just use my own water as you won't know if the saltwater from the lfs is polluted or not, since they usually just grab it from the sea nearby. Don't forget that Singapore is a port, so our waters are not that clean.

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Got myself a oc nano marine 4 63L to startup. Before i start the water cycling, have few doubt to clear.

1. It come with all filter media but no coral chip. Since i plan to use NTUC LifE water , shall i put in some coral chip in second filter catridege to replace bio foam? f93a34fc13879764340924bb0b8738ac.jpg

2. The pump come with tank only can perform 510L/hr max. Shall I replace it or it shall sufficient doing his job?

3. Instruction manual state air pump for skimmer shall put above water level. Any reason to do that? 9b4d8467f414f3eb3809f10657f11240.jpg

Thanks for all help.


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Hi welcome, my opinions below

1) I feel no need to replace, as you already have compartments of ceramic rings which essentially serve the same purpose as chips. Ceramic rings might be more porous too, making them more beneficial to house bacteria. 

If the wool is in the earlier compartment before your rings, they also play an important role in reducing detritus from reaching your rings. This minimIzes chance of nitrate accumulation.

2) flow is relatively ok, abit low maybe if you intend to keep SPS. But you can always add wave makers which are more effective in providing good water flow.

3) air pumps as a precautionary measure are placed higher, so that if pump stops for whatever reason, water doesn't get 'siphoned' into the pump

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Thanks for the replied.
1. The bio wool is on final compartment before water flow out from filter. I asp suprise the sequence isn't it shall be first compartment?
Current sequence filter will be activated carbon, coarse bio foarm, ceramic ring and bio wool. Shall i swap bio wool to first?

3. For third i will have problem finding a place to hold the pump . Need find some hanger.


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Oops my bad, I read wrongly, read as bio wool but registered as bio foam.. 

Personally, I'm a fan of porous media for bacteria housing, so if the wool is not able to provide more bac per square area, I would go for ceramic rings.

you have any details on the wool? I'm also thinking if it could get clogged over time. Not sure until we understand more about the wool

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Yup the foam serves as the mechanical filter. The wool wouldn't function that much differently from the foam IMO. I think a possible reason for them placing it at the last compartment is so that it prevents any bits of debris from getting to the return pump compartment 

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699092132c24969598f0de25fb666588.jpg

Get live sand, live rock and even salt water from LFS and start cycling. Added reefstart for the bacteria . Water temp looks good also stay on 27. I just cant get correct reading on hydrometer, i hope it wun spoil as i drop it once when setup.


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699092132c24969598f0de25fb666588.jpg

Get live sand, live rock and even salt water from LFS and start cycling. Added reefstart for the bacteria . Water temp looks good also stay on 27. I just cant get correct reading on hydrometer, i hope it wun spoil as i drop it once when setup.


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It could be broken since you dropped it. Better to invest a refractometer.
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Do i need to turn on light during cycling process? Read some taiwan forum say good to switch on 3-6 hour till diatom phase. Only longer it after diatom phase. Is it true as i also read some say no need light during cycling process


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Finally found out the salt water from LFS is low in salinity which is like 1.013-1.014 only. No choice but add more sea salt directly in my tank till 1.019-1.020. Lesson learnt lol


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If you are planning to keep corals, bring it up to 1.025-1.026
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By now your ammonia and nitrite should be zero if Cycling is done properly. Try get the test kit to measure the Nitrate and Phosphate if you keeping coral.
If you see Ammonia and Nitrite is zero and Nitrate is high, do a major water change of says 50% (provided no life stock in tank), and from there you can put in your first fish :-)


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Ammonia stay still on 0.25 for continuous 5 days using API test kit now. I throw some fish food and measure next day also same 0.25..... My other test kits still on the way, delivery slower than expected. Cannot progress for this week


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