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Zeolites - The emergency First AID when you have Ammonia Spike and mini Tank Crash


Harry H
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Dear Reefers,

We all have experienced the following situations before (this is written in a jest manner so take this with a pinch of ..salt*):

While tampering with the filter medium, you saw some unsightly dirty filter floss or sponge, and you think to yourself, "hmmmm I can just clean it to reduce Nitrate build up, I know there is good bacteria inside but hey, I have plenty of ammonia-converting bacteria in the live rock, sand, Marine Pure, floss, so cleaning THIS PIECE wont make any difference". You washed the floss and replaced it back in the tank and the next morning, the corals were not opening up and OMG you have a sudden Ammonia Spike.

Step 1. Water Change. Yeah thats what everyone tells you. And you look at the RODI Container and realize you did not top up the RODI water tank! Or WHEW! you got enough RODI water and you looked at the watch and you need to go back to the office.. like NOW.

Step. 2. Hey I got Anti-Ammonia additive or water conditioner or some leftover additives that looks promising. And you poured it inside the tank hoping for some miracle. And at the back of your mind, you were told that adding anti-chlorine may give false-positive when you do the Ammonia test later but this is an EMERGENCY, never mind that. This may work.

Step 3. Go to office. But worried the whole day.

Step 4. You come back home and see your favorite fish lying on its side, the shrimps are all dead (they are more sensitive to ammonia poisoning), the corals are closed up and your beloved tank has a mini-crash!

Over the years, I have like countless bottles of Anti-Chlorine, ATM Outbreak, emergency activated carbon, Poly membrane etc, Prime but what REALLY WORKS TO BUY TIME?

I found out that Zeolites is the reliable FIRST AIDER. Put it in a bag and dump it in the sump/Canister/ back chamber/reactor. It just works. Yes you still have to change water later, you still have to slap yourself for taking that piece of "dirt" out but on several occasions, it has saved my tank. So my 2 cents lesson is stock up on a S$10 bottle of Zeolites. You dont need Zeovit high end stuff. Just some Zeolites - it is a break glass during emergency thing to have at home.

Wish I had known this earlier! Please share your Tank Crash Experiences and your Recovery Methods.

 

(*I do not make light of the tank crash scenario - it is stressful and sad due to the death of your beloved pets.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Dear Reefers,
We all have experienced the following situations before (this is written in a jest manner so take this with a pinch of ..salt*):
While tampering with the filter medium, you saw some unsightly dirty filter floss or sponge, and you think to yourself, "hmmmm I can just clean it to reduce Nitrate build up, I know there is good bacteria inside but hey, I have plenty of ammonia-converting bacteria in the live rock, sand, Marine Pure, floss, so cleaning THIS PIECE wont make any difference". You washed the floss and replaced it back in the tank and the next morning, the corals were not opening up and OMG you have a sudden Ammonia Spike.
Step 1. Water Change. Yeah thats what everyone tells you. And you look at the RODI Container and realize you did not top up the RODI water tank! Or WHEW! you got enough RODI water and you looked at the watch and you need to go back to the office.. like NOW.
Step. 2. Hey I got Anti-Ammonia additive or water conditioner or some leftover additives that looks promising. And you poured it inside the tank hoping for some miracle. And at the back of your mind, you were told that adding anti-chlorine may give false-positive when you do the Ammonia test later but this is an EMERGENCY, never mind that. This may work.
Step 3. Go to office. But worried the whole day.
Step 4. You come back home and see your favorite fish lying on its side, the shrimps are all dead (they are more sensitive to ammonia poisoning), the corals are closed up and your beloved tank has a mini-crash!
Over the years, I have like countless bottles of Anti-Chlorine, ATM Outbreak, emergency activated carbon, Poly membrane etc, Prime but what REALLY WORKS TO BUY TIME?
I found out that Zeolites is the reliable FIRST AIDER. Put it in a bag and dump it in the sump/Canister/ back chamber/reactor. It just works. Yes you still have to change water later, you still have to slap yourself for taking that piece of "dirt" out but on several occasions, it has saved my tank. So my 2 cents lesson is stock up on a S$10 bottle of Zeolites. You dont need Zeovit high end stuff. Just some Zeolites - it is a break glass during emergency thing to have at home.
Wish I had known this earlier! Please share your Tank Crash Experiences and your Recovery Methods.
 
(*I do not make light of the tank crash scenario - it is stressful and sad due to the death of your beloved pets.)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Good advice bro.

Very useful also if you "accidentally" over stock your tank... 🤣
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I think another good to have during emergency is a good water conditioner ( for example seachem prime ) that is able to detoxify ammonia in such event.

Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

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According to Seachem FAQ, "Prime will bind ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for 24-48 hours. At which point, if they are still present, will be released."

This gives one sufficient time to take action like water change or to remove the livestock.

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I have a separate system with similar water parameters, used for quarantine, but also for emergency cases. To rescue sensitive intervebrates/fish/corals. If it is ammonia spike it's quite easily solved, but for other cases like water contamination, a separate system will save you because you won't have time to prepare new saltwater.

I had an accidental contamination once that wiped my tank because vapor from a disinfecting air freshener got in.

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I have a separate system with similar water parameters, used for quarantine, but also for emergency cases. To rescue sensitive intervebrates/fish/corals. If it is ammonia spike it's quite easily solved, but for other cases like water contamination, a separate system will save you because you won't have time to prepare new saltwater.
I had an accidental contamination once that wiped my tank because vapor from a disinfecting air freshener got in.
Bro, can share a little bit more on how u maintain the separate system? Will like to know more.

Thx.
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Get a good oversized skimmer n keep some sea water, be it nsw or saltmix. 

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Tank : 4 X 2 X 2 with low iron front panel and external overflow

Skimmer : BK SM200 with waste collector

Return Pumps : Red Dragon 6m3 and Ehiem 1262

FR : 2 X Deltec 509 & powered by AB2000

Nitrate Filter : Deltec NF 509 and tee off from AB2000

Calcium R'tor : Deltec PF 501 with RM secondary chamber

Kalkwasser R'tor : Deltec KM500

Chiller : Pansonic 1 HP Compressor with 20m titanium Coil

Wave Makers : 4 X Tunze 6055 with 7096 & Vortec MP40w

Controller : GHL Profilux

Lighting : ATI Powermodule 10 or 8 tubes

Water Top-up : Water Top-Up tank powered by Tunze Osmolator

External Monitor : American Pinpoint pH and Temp. Monitor for main tank and GHL Profilux Controller to measure temp, pH, Redox

Ozonizer : Sander C50

UV : Corallife 6x

Algae Scrubbler

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11 minutes ago, Indeco said:

Bro, can share a little bit more on how u maintain the separate system? Will like to know more.

Thx.

Hi bro, the separate system is like a quarantine tank, a fully functioning system. It is also like a backup system in case your main system fails.

For your main system, you dose to keep water parameters correct? However, when you do water change, don't throw away the water. This water is mature and have almost the same water parameters, so use it to change water for the back up system. This way, you can maintain 2 systems and save on new saltwater.

Everytime you water change it's like version 1.1, you keep the version 1.0, it's like saving files on computer.

Also, because the back up system has very similar water parameters, you can easily move livestock over without any acclimation, especially during emergency. Very easy to maintain because you are basically saving the water during water change. I use this for quarantine purposes. 

Hope it helps. 

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Hi bro, the separate system is like a quarantine tank, a fully functioning system. It is also like a backup system in case your main system fails.
For your main system, you dose to keep water parameters correct? However, when you do water change, don't throw away the water. This water is mature and have almost the same water parameters, so use it to change water for the back up system. This way, you can maintain 2 systems and save on new saltwater.
Everytime you water change it's like version 1.1, you keep the version 1.0, it's like saving files on computer.
Also, because the back up system has very similar water parameters, you can easily move livestock over without any acclimation, especially during emergency. Very easy to maintain because you are basically saving the water during water change. I use this for quarantine purposes. 
Hope it helps. 
Ic, but if you change water is to remove nutrients like high nitrate and phospate then u keep the water also not very gd?

I believe u do have air pump to perform aeration in your back up tank?

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4 minutes ago, Indeco said:

Ic, but if you change water is to remove nutrients like high nitrate and phospate then u keep the water also not very gd?

I believe u do have air pump to perform aeration in your back up tank?
 

Run as per normal reef system would. I use hang on canister, fully cycled with life rocks, sand and chaeto. Its a normal tank but with more hardy corals like zoas, bird nest, hammer, leather and mushrooms and 0 fish. Only difference is it's always 1 version below the main system. Main version 1.2, it will be 1.1, if main 1.3, it will be 1.2, so don't worry too much about nutrients because you are also exporting it with water change.

Also the quarantine tank bioload is much lesser than main tank, so it should be able to process the nutrients just fine.

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Run as per normal reef system would. I use hang on canister, fully cycled with life rocks, sand and chaeto. Its a normal tank but with more hardy corals like zoas, bird nest, hammer, leather and mushrooms and 0 fish. Only difference is it's always 1 version below the main system. Main version 1.2, it will be 1.1, if main 1.3, it will be 1.2, so don't worry too much about nutrients because you are also exporting it with water change.
Also the quarantine tank bioload is much lesser than main tank, so it should be able to process the nutrients just fine.
Ok got it now. Thx bro.
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