Jump to content

IOS tank setup


Recommended Posts

Hi , I am just setup this IOS tank and also just purchase 1 protein skimmer. 

Anyone know where to put this protein skimmer ?

I have 4 slot. 1st slot is sponge filter, 2nd slot is media, 3rd slot is K1 with air pump and protein skimmer, 4th slot is motor pump outlet.

 

20191119_012008.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

my setup is filter media —> refugium —> skimmer —> return pump. i think no hard and fast rule on where to put the skimmer, by logic should be after filter media cos u dun wan the big particles choke the pump. Skimmer is more for DOC removal. i think skimmer height and water level is more important to control
the skimming. just sharing.


Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Is your tank new? If so then this is all part of the nitrogen cycle. There are some good videos on youtube explaining this (cycling your tank). But this is to be expected. Have you tested for Ammonia and/or Nirite this will help you guage where you stand in the cycle. Basically you have to wait for the correct bacteria to take hold. You can do a few things to help this along such as reduce the level of salt in the water (assuming you dont have anything living in the tank just yet). This gives the bacteria more energy to grow and multiply. Once they have the nitrates will reduce and you can slowly increase the salinity back to normal. You can also add beneficial bacteria. Highly suggest DRTims one and only.

If your tank is older, and you properly cycled the tank, then you need to think about how you set up your nutrient export methods. Skimmer? Refugium? ATS? Also figure out where this is coming from (excess bio load?). .

(note There are loads of test kits each slightly different, so purple doesnt mean much. Its good you are testing, great job this is a key element to successful reefing, but some numbers wouldn't go amiss that way we can help you more)

Hope this helps. Thanks for reaching out

Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Some corals need some nitrates to Flourish. Ie xenias.. wise to choose your lifestocks wisely.


Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/22/2019 at 10:31 PM, R0B said:

Is your tank new? If so then this is all part of the nitrogen cycle. There are some good videos on youtube explaining this (cycling your tank). But this is to be expected. Have you tested for Ammonia and/or Nirite this will help you guage where you stand in the cycle. Basically you have to wait for the correct bacteria to take hold. You can do a few things to help this along such as reduce the level of salt in the water (assuming you dont have anything living in the tank just yet). This gives the bacteria more energy to grow and multiply. Once they have the nitrates will reduce and you can slowly increase the salinity back to normal. You can also add beneficial bacteria. Highly suggest DRTims one and only.

If your tank is older, and you properly cycled the tank, then you need to think about how you set up your nutrient export methods. Skimmer? Refugium? ATS? Also figure out where this is coming from (excess bio load?). .

(note There are loads of test kits each slightly different, so purple doesnt mean much. Its good you are testing, great job this is a key element to successful reefing, but some numbers wouldn't go amiss that way we can help you more)

Hope this helps. Thanks for reaching out

Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
 

Thanks for your reply.

my tank now already 3 weeks but the Nitrates still stay at 0.5 to 1 purple color. this is number start from i setup until now no change. do you know what is  the issue or anything can help ?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • SRC Member

Assuming your test kit is accurate (haven't expire), my guess is die off from live rock or tank still cycling.

Water change can't remove a lot of nitrates and phosphates unless you do a really huge one. Let's say 10% water change, there is still 90% of the nitrates and phosphates still in the tank.

I'm new to saltwater too but i think you should be looking to implement nutrient export for nitrates (and phosphates). Protein skimmers only remove waste *before* they break down into nitrates, meaning whatever nitrates you already have in your tank need to be removed by some other method.

You can consider using these as your nutrient export:
Chemical supplements (liquid / media)
Refugium (macroalgae)
Or you could just do a large water change (I'm not sure how much but the idea is to remove all the nitrates and phosphates from cycling and add in new saltwater, hence the level of nutrients will be low but the bacteria is still on the surfaces in your tank. Then, you can start adding livestock. To my knowledge you only do this ONCE after you have cycled your tank)

I'm trying to do a DIY hang-on refugium for my own tank so if you're interested can message me


Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Good advice from Littlenat. Simply if your Nitrate is still high then your tank isn't cycled yet.

As you cycle the Ammonia oxygenating bacteria grow fairly fast and have multiplied to take care of your ammonia in tank, as a byproduct they are producing loads of nitrite. However, the Nitrite oxidising bacteria do not grow as fast and thus your Nitrite can start to rise. If it gets too high (above 5) the Nitrite will inhibit the Ammonia oxygenating bacteria stalling the cycle. (If you test and find your Ammonia is going up after it initially fell this indicates a stall in the cycle).

So what to do? Well, best way is a substantial water change. Remember bacteria live on surfaces, very little bacteria is in the water column. Removing water will reduce the Nitrite but give the autotrophic Nitrite bacteria a fighting chance to grow. As they live on the upper surfaces of your substrate or bio media do not disturb your substrate, rocks etc when cycling you need them to host the bacteria. If you have little of the correct surfaces available for them to live, that is something you will need to address.

There was mention of the refugium. Yes these are great (ATS even better for size), but not on a new tank. Wait a fair few months. All organisms even bacteria need micro nutrients like phosphate to live (this is why it is also best not to run the likes of GFO at the start. So again give them time and a fighting chance to establish.

Also do make sure you have good flow to bring the Ammonia and Nitrite to the bacteria. Poor flow can lead to organics burying the Nitrite Bacteria. As hetrotrophic bacteria start to consume those organics this can slow down the nitrification process as the ammonia rich water doesn't get to the bacteria. Remember we a talking about microscopic layers here.

It is just about balance and taking things slow. Get a small controllable ammonia concentration, get the best autotrophic nitrfying Bacteria, have the correct surface and good flow. Keep salinity low and temperature highish (if cycling without fish) to help the bacteria grow. Then it is time to sit back and enjoy.






Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share



×
×
  • Create New...