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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/07/2021 in Posts

  1. Selling as a set for $40 Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
    1 point
  2. From my experience, stress/change in environment causes them to split, just like BTAs. And also, I've accidentally shredded one of my rhodactis one day when I tried to cut the rock, splitted it into 3 pieces. I've also torn some of them off frag-racks they got stuck to. Pretty much all of them grew back, quite hard to kill haha.
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  3. Agreed, flooded my room a few times because of blockage in the pipes/loss of siphon from power outage. Now I know always to have emergency drain and keep the HOB overflow constantly primed. If you really want to have one and keep it small, go for Herbie (don't forget the emergency pipe), dursos can be quite noisy in my experience, and bean animal is too big. I've kept a mixed reef frag tank with large HOB filters haha, it's more important to have wavemaker flow imo.
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  4. Looks like bacterial bloom bro, they sometimes make slime that will catch debris. I'm sure with some good husbandry, they'll be gone
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  5. Hey thanks man for your response! There are actually "spider webs". I think i will scrape them off and do a water change over and over again. Kinda neglected water change due to other commitments.
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  6. Most overflows can easily handle a small tank. My concern if any would be with a HOB you carry the greatest risk of major catastrophic failure. If for any reason the siphon breaks then you will end up with an overflow (as the sump continues to pump all the water into the tank). Further any auxiliary items like chiller will also shut down / damage due to lack of water. Thus, this maybe something you would want to reconsider... Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
    1 point
  7. Do take note a bean animal style overflow can take up a significant space due to the number of pipes used. Therefore for a 20G aquarium, it may or may not be practical. Is your aquarium pre-drilled? Or are you going to make one?
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  8. Overflows act as barrier reducing risk of pipe blockage and (assuming is an external overflow) typically allow for easier access to plumbing. Disadvantages (few)... added cost, tank needs drilling. Regarding size.... well that depends on two factors. One is the amount of water needed. So a 20g would need just 450L/Hr of flow for 5x turnover. Which could be handled by as little as 12mm pipe (Although best to size up to 16mm). The second factor is the type of overflow you plan to use; Durso, Herbie or Bean Animal? Bean Animal is possibly the most popular as it is regarded the safest and the quietest method. The type you select will have either one or two main drains with potential of an extra emergency in case of Durso and Bean Animal. Manufactuers typical have size ratings for their overflow boxes so check them out when choosing box size. But, regarding actual size of pipes you need, well sometimes this is dictated by the overflow manufactuers, however a good rule of thumb is that the drainage should be able to carry at at least three times as much volume as the return line. So a 16mm diameter pipe has an area of around 200mm2 whilst a 20mm pipe has say 315 and a 30mm pipe around 700. So a single 16mm return would need either 2x20mm drainage pipes (bean animal) or 1x30mm (for Durso or Herbie method). Hope that helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
    1 point
  9. This could be a 'white sponge'. (As I cant see any 'spiderwebs' on your photos but rather a blanket of grey white), hopefully other reefers can confirm this. Most sponges are harmless, but need to be kept in check. To treat use hydrogen peroxide or hot water. I don't recommend you try and remove manually by brushing or scraping as it will spread. Problem with sponges is if you treat they can rot in the tank so suck out the water and flesh around the area you are treating. Also be prepared and have plenty of salt water available to replace displaced water and for subsequent water changes. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
    1 point
  10. Ocellaris clown fish available for giveaway
    1 point
  11. Wow that’s a huge level of consumption. What size system do you have ? Has implementing the second skimmer to serve as a form of gas exchange increased the pH at the same level of a CO2 scrubber? Thanks again for the wonderful input [emoji106] I shall dive deeper and seek alternatives before implementing the CO2 scrubber! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
    1 point
  12. If you have problem with PH first you need to check if the water in your tank is fully aerated. If the co2 in the surrounding air is high then even if your tank water is at equilibrium with the air outside, the levels of carbonic acid in the water will be high, which means more fre H+ leading to highe PH. This is rare in Singapore (unlike colder countries) we keep our windows open so the co2 levels in the air in your home should already be low (o.04 percent) almost. In this case if you scrub the co2 using media this will bring down carbonic acid in the tank but the effects maybe only temporary till the water attains equilibrium with the air. The other causes of ph being low is reapiration releasing co2 - eapecially at night. Or Co2 gas from your carx not diffusing into the air before getting into the tank. In thesr cases its is best to use calcium hydroxide ( kalkwasser) to supplement and remove exces co2 in the water. Also alkalinity being low can be a cause of low PH, but in a badly awrated tank you might need to drive alk upto over 12 to reacv PH levels of 8.3. So there is no straightforward answer as to whether co2 media has increases ph and by how much. Since you have never measured PH best is it to start with that before thinking about boosting. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
    1 point
  13. All sold, thank you [emoji846] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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