jd_n

The nxt time he do tat, i will bake him under my 400W

My naughty dog was havin tug of war with my chiller wire and managed to tug it out while i was away MJing at my fren place. Came home ard 4 in the mornin to find my temp at 32, believe it has hit 35 before the MH timer switches off at 12mn. Got one colony kena RTN (no chance of fraggin somemore) while a couples due to stress....turn brownish

Matured tank with good water parameters, lighting, proper equipments to sustain ur tank, supplements, patience.....and the list goes on and on.

neh...its some kind of marine aquatic plant, i had it too....no worries If it bother u then remove it

Dun c anythin tat are unsafe

Could be polyp bail-out or coral polyp expulsion. Bascially the living polyps eject themselves from their skeleton to drift in the current, ideally findin a suitable settlin place where they can attach and begin to calcify a new skeleton. Bail-outs are almost seen in response to stress. This type of reaction is likely used as a last-ditch attempt for survival rather than a valid form of asexual reproduction under normal behaviour. The latter is where the individual polyps, along with the calices, detach and lift out of the colony skeleton. Although this resembles polyp bail-out, they are ejectin from otherwise healthy colonies. Both behaviors seem to be triggered by physcial disturbance and stress so mayb somethin is stressin out ur corals.....

yup...tats one gd way>by maintainin a low water level in sump or refugium but well............ there are always kiasu pple ard whom like to have "the more water the merrier" and when cockup "mop the floow lor"

Regardless of pump or cannister when either one fail u.....get ur mop and pail ready!

So i assume water will go into refugium thru a existin pump in ur tank and a cannister tat will be used to draw water from refugium back to main tank. In the scenario tat ur pump in the main tank break dwn, there will be no water goin dwn to the refugium and at the same time water in the refugium will be drained dry by the cannister and flood ur main tank. 2nd scenario will be ur cannister break dwn and ur refugium will flood coz water will continuin being pump into ur refugium.

Use ur cert for verification. And ur divelog

hmm.....max volume for UV-C 7000 is 7000L.>>>> reference: http://www.koiteich.de/UVC/UVC_Standard/uvc_standard.html U can view the product....pm me ur contact no.

Got a 4 mths old UV steriliser for sale. Brand and model is UV-C 7000.....hardly uses it and now collectin dust so lettin go at $70. Interested, pls pm me. Details can be found at eaquanature site.

hmm.....surprisinly i only bought one ph minus solution and used once..... still got 90% of it left till today. Only used it initially to reduce the ph of my tank and till 2day, my ph has been in the region of 8.0-8.3. Think its got to do with bit of luck too . Like i said, i have used it like close to 2 years ago and i did not encounter any prob yet. Mayb its like AIDs....10 yrs dwn the road then get sick ... fyi....coral chips will increase ph level and tat explains y after usin ph minus and u still got ph hoverin 8 for ur planted tank.

Oh...isit. Care to tell wat prob will i be expecting later on. The last time i used it was like 18-20mths ago on my present tank so wanna knw wat prob will i be expectin....must be prepare for the prob

If u wan... get sera ph minus. U MUST mix with freshwater before addin it into ur tank coz its meant for FW aquarium. Used it before...no impact on my tank so i deem it safe to use but watch ur dosage. Else, leave ur tank alone.....ph shd go down in a couple of days time.

Dun b sad abt it....its dyin but not dead yet. Juz hope for the best.

alvy....the shp did not opened yesterday....tats y u can't find it Its located directly opposite my blk!

Have fun durin lectures....juz dun doze off

How matured is ur tank? And how long are u into marine. I won't recommend sps if u r new into marine. Bascially, u nd to read up alot more abt sps before venturing into them and u nd to have good water parameters as well as the proper equipments, knowledge and $$ to sustain them. Cheers

Watever LFS pple said...listern with left ear out thru the right. Tats y i said, read up more from books and this forum. Calcium, iodide and magnesium are all supplements. Calcium are essential for coral growth and certain inverts, iodide is an important element required by inverts and many soft corals, magnesium are used to restore depleted levels of magnesium in ur tank water especially when u dose kalkwasser. All these are parts and puzzles of ur water parameter tat u nd to maintain them at as ideal as compared to natural seawater for ur LS to survive in. Btw...its iodide not iodine, iodine is as toxic as chlorine as should nvr be used in a reef tank.

Both seawater and saltmix will support ur LRs. LRs are used in ur marine tank not only for scapin purpose but also to house all the beneficial bacteria as well as other good or bad habitants. There's no special requirement to sustain LRs, they dun eat! U may wan to read up more on marine keepin bro.,

of coz u can stack the LRs else how u gonna scape ur tank. U cann't possibly have all the LRs lyin on the bottom rite. Btw, there's no nd to add anythin into ur water inorder for u to stack LRs

U will nvr achive tat flowrate u mentioned for both outlet using one single pump. The outlet tats shortest and nearest to ur pump will have the most output flow while the furthest will have a very slow water output. Regardless of how fast ur pump can operate, u will not get equal output for both outlet usin a single pump. To achieve 2 equal output is to get 2 pump, as for recommendation.....ehiem would be a good choice.

Chiller sold.

yah yah..i gave up on u guys. Anyway, tks.