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jd_n

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Posts posted by jd_n

    Breeding Pygmy Angels

    in General Reefkeeping_

    Posted

    hi bro DA

    please don't pour water so fast. :paiseh:

    this is a small flame. can die off one ...

    i think the risk is not too great ... judging from the feedback ... it seems we have problem only in bringing up their youngs rather than adult fish dying ...

    this is what i call collective wisdom and sharing ... once the fishy is purchased it belongs to the general pool of fishy, no direct ownership. unless the fellowship of the ring is folded, then we need to share the spoilts ....:(

    i suggest a 4x or 6x fishes commitment before we even think of starting ...

    :thanks:

    lizard

    tell u wat....

    U buy the fishes and i will provide the species tank, run the tank, pay the pub bills generated by the tank, pay the makan for the fish....bla bla bla. All the abv services FOC and i nd nt get wat 3X shares too. But fish die nt my prob! :blink::whistle

    SPS tank keeper.. wats yr husbandry skills

    in SPS and Advanced Reefkeepers Forum

    Posted

    Sps can juz rtn or stn but they do nt juz lose it color overnite....its usually over a couple of daes tat u c the change in coloration.

    Presence of PO4 and NO3 in reefer tank doesn't meant tat he is nt takin action abt it. So it can be the noticin of algae tat one knws the presence of PO4 and NO3 tat one has to tackle the problem before these elements create an impacts on his sps. For eg... given tis particular dae i posted a pix of my tank or some fellow reefers came over to my place and it happens tat we noticed an some algae formin on my sandbed, i knw tat PO4 has silently crept up and its time to replace the rowa. After tat, with immediate remedy, i will prevent sps frm brownin out.

    So tat may explains y u c reefers with algae boom or NO3 capable of sustainin their sps colors. Or it could be a buy nw, show nw but nvr show again coz it turn brown oreadi scenario. :P

    Of coz.....salifert test kit can show us a readin of 0 for PO4 or NO3.....but do u believe they r 100% accurate. Therefore i believe there r always a minimal amt of them in our system.

    The key point i would say is to keep it at the minimal.

    SPS tank keeper.. wats yr husbandry skills

    in SPS and Advanced Reefkeepers Forum

    Posted

    defiantely could be, but still doesn't explain why switching back to MH will seems to color them up.... ;)

    does it mean that we could subsitute poor water quality with better lights?????

    btw, my tests for the past months with Salfiet test kits show 0 N03 and PO4.....just like most bro here.....so what could be that missing parameters that we seems to be missing...interestingly, i have also met bro with great tank but with slight detectable N03 - so seriously, are we really missing something here?

    Frm wat i see....

    matured system,

    constant water parameters,

    lightin (the choice of bulbs, color temp....),

    leavin ur sps alone,

    good water circulation,

    feedin with the proper food,

    knwin the requirment of ur sps such as placin.

    proper acclamatizin of newly bought colonies especially wild.

    All the abv contributes retainin and coloration. ;)

    SPS tank keeper.. wats yr husbandry skills

    in SPS and Advanced Reefkeepers Forum

    Posted

    wow... this is wat i really meant, personal husbandry skills. u feed GP everyday ? may i know the quantity u feed ? for me i feed once a week with a pinch, cos i really wonders if the sps really takes them.

    Do u change water from the sump and wash yr sump ? I normally change water from main tank but since my tank is up for about a year now, the sump is pretty dirty, thought of switching off all returns, use a sponge and clean up the sump den drain it and fill it up with newly mixed SW. wat do u think ?

    Wats the purpose of iodide ? does ARMS media contains iodide ? cos i'm using ARMS.. :P

    Any guys here using iodide :huh:

    eh.....change water frm sump? :blink: they r link together rite.

    They work juz like a loop, water frm main tank overflow thru the overflow comparment into the sump and the return pump in the sump pumps water back into the main tank again.....so changin water frm either main tank or sump makes no diff rite? :lol:

    Anyway....answerin wat u asked....i use a hose and siphon water out frm my main tank instead coz of the height will give me more gravity pull hence more stronger siphonin effect as compared to the sump. Another reason being i can use the hose to siphon watever dirt after i finished scruppin the glass.

    After tat, i top up newly mix saltwater into the main tank and turn on the return pump and tunze.

    Me nvr touch the sump, no cleanin, scrubbin.....etc. Only thing i did to my sump is to change the cotton wool.

    Can't remember the purpose of iodide....if i m nt wrong, its to keep ur corals healthy...like an antiseptic macham lugol solution. brand is seachem.

    GP feedin is one pinch of 5-50nm and one pinch of 50-100nm. Feedin done 30mins after lights off. If u observe closely, u will c the polyps trappin them.

    As for whether ARM media contains iodide ornt.....i dun remember seeing the ARM container mentionin it do. In fact, i dun remember seein it mentionin replenishin of Mg as well......so if Mg is low....better replenish.

    SPS tank keeper.. wats yr husbandry skills

    in SPS and Advanced Reefkeepers Forum

    Posted

    yes, francis u r right. there's lots of "unknown" cause, which i find it very complicating.

    eg. 1 changing water

    a) how often

    B) how much

    c) change from sump ? clean up sump whenever changing water

    d) using overnight water ?

    e) Is RODI unit a must ? does it really helps ?

    f) avoid hands in tank rule ?

    g) how frequent on changing filter ?

    h) additives a must ? eg. amino acids and other trace element ?

    eg. 2 Lights

    a) some article mention that though light is important, some keep it with low lights ?

    B) some keep it away from waters at least 12 inch, still achieve good result

    blar blar blar............... :P

    Regardin water changes

    25-30% water change once a mth.

    Usin juz tap water with anti chorine, anti this anti tat....bla bla + salt. :lol:

    Daily top up using "same as the above minus the salt" :P

    Change new wool once a wk.

    Do nt supplement trace element coz they r replenish durin water change.

    Do dose iodide once a wk.

    I nvr rescape my sps....only time i touch them is when i add in new colonies. I will look for "holes" then do abit of shuffin ard tat region for the new colony. :paiseh:

    The less u touch them the happier they r.

    Rowa change every 2mths

    Check parameters every mth.

    Lightin...

    bulb change every 10mth.

    MH is 8inch frm the highest sps.

    There r specimen tat require more lightin than another...so knwin wat u bought will help in ur arrangement of top mid and bottom.

    Feedin.

    Feed GPs every day.

    I do hav a refugium tat r seperated frm my sump (both r link by tubes, those who hav seen it will knw wat i meant :P ) where i kept macroalgae. They r under 150W 24/7. Trim occassionally when overgrown.

    The rest r pretty automatic.....CR, skimmer.....etc

    Tangs tat get too aggressive!

    in FOWLR (Fish-only with Live-rock)

    Posted

    from observatins,

    we should introduce

    1. butterflies/ MI/AT

    2. tang

    3 angel

    4. trigger

    then will b fine :yeah:

    oh really, :rolleyes: intro butterflies, MI then AT then bla bla bla huh?

    paiseh huh...me still new to marine u c, juz started keepin tangs 2 wks ago :whistle ....so may i ask.....frm whose observation u derive the abv equation frm? :huh:

    So we intro butterflies frm the Chaetodontidae family then follow by MI which is the only member of the zanclidae family and a very close relative of the tang/surgeon and then we intro the AT which is frm the Acanthuridae family. Followin tat....u mentioned intro members of the Acanthuridae family again. So isn't AT member of the Acanthuridae family as well? and wun the AT harrass the other new tangs tat is goin to be added after the AT?

    btw...my AT is the resident tang follow by other LS. ;)

    Tangs tat get too aggressive!

    in FOWLR (Fish-only with Live-rock)

    Posted

    well it really depend on how u intro the fish, my fish even though in a small tank, they dun really fight, they graze together...

    Size does matter too...

    wow...u gt special intro technique?

    me newbie u c :paiseh: ....so do let us in on ur secret method of introducin fish so tat we can learn. :whistle

    R there technique 123...e.g

    special intro technique 1 for tangs only,

    special intro technique 2 for angels only,

    special intro technique 3 for butterflies only.....etc

    btw, u mentioned "they dun really fight" meanin:

    1. they dun fight at all.

    2. they fight occassionally or ???? :rolleyes:

    And size does matter??? meanin smaller size wun bully bigger size fish? :rolleyes:

    get aong with Powder blue surgeon

    in FOWLR (Fish-only with Live-rock)

    Posted

    tat why i upgrade to a 4 ft tank, btw so sry abt the return pump sale. dun mean to aeroplane u.

    I dun care abt the the tang to wat inch, aslong as no itch and eating well, i dun mind spend another K to get another skimmer to help out my exisiting skimmer.

    Return pump sale?? :blink:

    I would reckon u to use tat another K and spend it on a much bigger tank for the welfare if ur tangs..Water quality can be maintained thru the use of good equipments but they need lots of swimmin space to stay healthy which ur 4ft cn nvr provide for tat amt of tangs. Ultimately, its ur tank and its ur choice.

    We can only advise ;)

    Ur opinion is most welcome on ...

    in General Reefkeeping_

    Posted

    Remembered my 70% causalties rate yrs bk and its only a tank to tank migration. :pinch:

    Ct imagine when its a house to house migration.

    So when movin, u r subject to lots of cons.

    1. high sps death rate (mostly stn).

    2. Lots of bag to pack individual colony = lots of items to move.

    3. Hassle of moving them especially LRs, equip...etc.

    4. Nd very good time management betw settin up new tank and decom old tank.

    5. Too much handlin will stress ur sps as u nd to take up at least half a dae to arrange them in ur new tank. Those bag_up sps will be subjected to room temp fluctuation (so air con must b operational).

    6. And dun forget.....u r movin hse nt tank only so u need time to plan ur new hm, move furniture, household items....bla bla.

    Tats y i cleared mine ;) coz the idea of transferin my LRs and fishes oreadi.... :pinch:

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