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Posts posted by Evolutionz

  1. I have a previously injured sun coral for trade. I have been feeding it multiple times a week by soaking it in a cup with a cube of mysis, it has been recovering well and was opening up well but recently due to work i hadn't been able to feed it as often as i should. 

    It still opens up slightly everyday so i'm hoping to trade it away! Size is about 3" across. I'm looking at nice zoas, acroporas or LPS like acans/hammer/torch/chalices.


    Thanks for viewing.

  2. Some stable frags to let go.


    Top pic left to right - yoda zoas, Fiji dragon Eye zoas and fruit loops zoas $10 EACH


    Bottom left - 3 1" branch rose red Millepora $15


    Bottom right - 2 1.5" branch tri color valida $15


    Take all for only $50 and I will FOC a forest fire digi frag AND a purple photosynthetic gorgonian frag!


    WhatsApp me at 910six393four. Collection at woodlands.




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  3. Nice looking QT tank! For a start, i feel that you don't need the chiller unless you're planning to get some coldwater species. Fishes do just nice in room temperature for a short period of time in QT. I also agree that the chaeto is redundant, nutrient level management can be easily done by water change.

  4. 12 minutes ago, Temlaa said:

    Thank you Evolutionz for the quick response!

    Regarding the Purigen, if i do not use that, is carbon okay? Or will carbon absorb the medication as well?

    Carbon will remove medication, infact carbon will be used to remove all sorts of medication once the QT process finishes. 

    For Copper, what brand/product is a good choice?

    I uses Copper Power but it is not available locally, i bought it from BulkReefSupply.

    Also, i am using "Seachem Prime" to condition my fresh saltwater, will this react with copper?

    No! Prime or any other anti-chlorine will reduce copper medication to its very toxic form. only use RODI or DI water to mix saltwater for your QT.

    An additional question that came up,

    10. How long do i leave the fish in the quarantine tank before transfering to display tank?

    There are many different approach to this, some will call this 'kiasu' but this is what i follow..

    Day 1 - 3 : No medication, observe and make sure fish is feeding.

    Day 3 - 7: Start bringing copper to therapeutic level slowly over the course of several days.

    Day 8 - 38: Ensure fish stays in copper maintained at therapeutic levels for the whole of 30 days. Meanwhile, i dose Praziquantel (Eiho Prazigold) and Metronidazole (Seachem Metroplex) and that will take care of flukes and internal parasites respectively. 

    Once again thank you for the help!emoji4.png

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    You're welcome! I am glad that more and more people are adopting the idea of QT-ing their fishes! Recently there are more cases of velvet lurking even in the more 'atas' shops. They have no way to prevent this but we do. 

    I also try to get my fishes from sources which are least likely to carry diseases (it is just not possible to get a 100% disease free fish), they can either be from LFS that provide proper QT service, or LFS that has UV system in place to minimize spread of disease. 

    Coral Farm is one where i usually shop for fishes. Instead of the usual QT process, i usually observe the fishes in the QT for 3-4 weeks (without any medication) before releasing into the display tank, provided they are healthy and show no signs of any disease/parasites. 


  5. Here are my answers below, im no expert but these are my views and my QT process.


    1. Is the pump, sponge filter, bio-filter and carbon (might replace carbon with seachem purigen) all i need in this quarantine tank?

    Yes, that will be all you need, i would not use purigen too as it might absorb medications.

    2. Do i need the lights on? If yes, how long per day?

    Yes, i would leave it on for 8-10 hours a day so you can observe the fish in QT.

    3. I am using ReefMax Salt mix for my saltwater, do i need to add any other additives? Or should i use a different salt mix?

    Fishes are not particular about salt mix nor salinity. So long it is stable, it should be fine.

    4. Is it appropriate to add a rock in the tank?

    You can add some rocks but i would advise not too, rocks might absorb copper and it will be harder to achieve therapeutic levels.

    5. Do i need to leave the tank running even if i have no fish to quarantine yet, or only add saltwater and run the tank if there is new fish to quarantine?

    You do not need to leave the tank running if you have no fish to QT, but do note that you'll need to re-cycle the tank again when you have fishes to QT again. I personally leave my QT running 24/7.

    6. Do i have to do drip acclimatisation method for new fish before adding them into the quarantine tank? And another drip acclimatisation for quarantine tank to display tank?

    Personally, all i do is ensure salinity and temperature matches between transfer. just mixes water bit by bit till salinity matches. Of course, be careful not to pour water from the bag into your QT, and QT into your display.

    7. Is quarantine tank different for fish and corals?

    Generally QT for corals should be a fishless tank that matches the parameters of your display as close to as possible. QT for corals are more difficult to maintain, i personally do not have a QT for corals.

    8. Does 20% water change weekly apply to quarantine tank?

    That will depend on the medication you are using. If purely just copper (or QT without medication), then yes a 20% weekly WC would benefit the system overall, remember to dose enough copper in the fresh water going into the QT.

    9. What to look out for when the fish is in the quarantine tank?

    Look out for white spots (ich, velvet & brook), sunken stomach, white stringy poop, etc, etc.. Just a few to name. Generally, just ensure fishes are eating well and pooping well, especially when copper is used as some fishes such as angelfish and wrasse can be sensitive to certain type of copper. 

    • Like 1
  6. 41 minutes ago, nanoteef20g said:




    Is Eijo Prazi Gold reef safe? the description says for preventative measure i can do small dosage but not sure if in the tank itself or the qt, although it sounds like in the DT itself, anyone know?


    tanks lol



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    Prazigold (praziquintel in general) is entirely reef safe, i have done so recently in my tank with Zoas, LPS and sps with no adverse effects whatsoever on any fish/corals/inverts. 

    Do note that the medication might kill feather duster worms. 

  7. 4 minutes ago, Darren Sim said:

    That’s good to hear! emoji1303.png

    Tbh I gotten fishes from CF most of the time but there’s once my tang got fluke and killed all my other fishes in my QT.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Which is why QT is so so important.. there's no way any LFS/source can be 100% reef safe even if they claim they quarantine. I've seen heard way too many cases of reefers adding cheap fish directly into display tank without QT and end up wiping the whole tank full of more expensive fishes.

    • Like 1
  8. 19 minutes ago, Darren Sim said:

    Your coralline algae grow beautifully and fast. Why not adding more fishes to raise no3? Btw heard you're QT your fishes can you share the process on QT with us. 

    Thanks bro! Yeah i'm looking to stock this tank up with 1 or 2 more fishes but not in a hurry, things are finally stabilizing again so want to do thing slow! 

    I do QT every single fish that goes into the system with a tiny 25L QT tank, i use copper power, praziquientel and metronidazole for medication. They will be medicated with copper at therapeutic level for a month.

    However, the naoko wrasse was bought from CF (IMO, this is the only place i will get my fish from if i don't QT, as they have industrial grade UV running throughout all their system) and since they are relatively sensitive to medication, i chose to QT without medication and released it into the display tank after 3 weeks or so. 

    • Like 1
  9. Refer to attached photo from top left to bottom right.


    Top left : 2" forest fire digitata - $10


    Top right: 2.5" purple photosynthetic gorgonia - $20


    Bottom left: purple death paly - $20


    Bottom middle: sunflower zoas - $15


    Bottom right: purple hornet zoas - $20


    Take all for only $75.


    Photos are taken under white light with no editing.


    WhatsApp me at 910six393four. Collection at woodlands (no viewing due to covid) or iwarna on Saturday morning.


    Thanks for viewing.




    Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app



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