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Evolutionz

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Posts posted by Evolutionz

  1. Hi all,

     

    Some SPS frags for sale,they are all stable and encrusting well with good stable coloration.

     

    1st pic top left to bottom right:

     

    1) green polyp blue tenuis 1" - $10

     

    2) pearlberry Acropora 1" - $10

     

    3) strawberry Shortcake Acropora (yellowish base) 2" - $25

     

    4) Aussie deep blue tenuis (blue polyps too) 2" $20

     

    5) 3" green Millepora mini colony - $25

     

    Take all for $80 FOC a frag of purple nana acro.

     

    3rd pic shows the mother colonies of the frags for reference only. Only 1 frag of each, no extra piece.

     

    Collection at woodlands. Whatsapp me at 910six393four.

     

    Thanks for viewing. IMG_20210104_193436.jpegIMG_20210104_193523.jpegIMG_20210104_194315.jpeg

     

    Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

     

     

  2. Some zoas frags for sale. They have been fragged and stable for months.

     

    First picture top left to bottom right

     

    Top left - rasta zoas $10

     

    Top right - scrambled egg zoas $15

     

    Middle - bam bam zoas $20

     

    Bottom right - BBEB Blondies zoas $15

     

    2nd pic - rainbow infusion zoas 4 polyps $20

     

    Take all for $75 FOC a forest fire digitata frag!

     

    WhatsApp me at 910six393four. Collection at woodlands. 20201226_161934.jpeg20201226_162125.jpeg

     

    Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

     

     

  3. I have a previously injured sun coral for trade. I have been feeding it multiple times a week by soaking it in a cup with a cube of mysis, it has been recovering well and was opening up well but recently due to work i hadn't been able to feed it as often as i should. 

    It still opens up slightly everyday so i'm hoping to trade it away! Size is about 3" across. I'm looking at nice zoas, acroporas or LPS like acans/hammer/torch/chalices.

    20201222_222938

    Thanks for viewing.

  4. Some stable frags to let go.

     

    Top pic left to right - yoda zoas, Fiji dragon Eye zoas and fruit loops zoas $10 EACH

     

    Bottom left - 3 1" branch rose red Millepora $15

     

    Bottom right - 2 1.5" branch tri color valida $15

     

    Take all for only $50 and I will FOC a forest fire digi frag AND a purple photosynthetic gorgonian frag!

     

    WhatsApp me at 910six393four. Collection at woodlands.

     

    IMG_20201219_224311.jpeg

     

    Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

     

     

  5. Nice looking QT tank! For a start, i feel that you don't need the chiller unless you're planning to get some coldwater species. Fishes do just nice in room temperature for a short period of time in QT. I also agree that the chaeto is redundant, nutrient level management can be easily done by water change.

  6. 12 minutes ago, Temlaa said:

    Thank you Evolutionz for the quick response!

    Regarding the Purigen, if i do not use that, is carbon okay? Or will carbon absorb the medication as well?

    Carbon will remove medication, infact carbon will be used to remove all sorts of medication once the QT process finishes. 


    For Copper, what brand/product is a good choice?

    I uses Copper Power but it is not available locally, i bought it from BulkReefSupply.

    Also, i am using "Seachem Prime" to condition my fresh saltwater, will this react with copper?

    No! Prime or any other anti-chlorine will reduce copper medication to its very toxic form. only use RODI or DI water to mix saltwater for your QT.

    An additional question that came up,

    10. How long do i leave the fish in the quarantine tank before transfering to display tank?

    There are many different approach to this, some will call this 'kiasu' but this is what i follow..

    Day 1 - 3 : No medication, observe and make sure fish is feeding.

    Day 3 - 7: Start bringing copper to therapeutic level slowly over the course of several days.

    Day 8 - 38: Ensure fish stays in copper maintained at therapeutic levels for the whole of 30 days. Meanwhile, i dose Praziquantel (Eiho Prazigold) and Metronidazole (Seachem Metroplex) and that will take care of flukes and internal parasites respectively. 


    Once again thank you for the help!emoji4.png

    Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

    You're welcome! I am glad that more and more people are adopting the idea of QT-ing their fishes! Recently there are more cases of velvet lurking even in the more 'atas' shops. They have no way to prevent this but we do. 

    I also try to get my fishes from sources which are least likely to carry diseases (it is just not possible to get a 100% disease free fish), they can either be from LFS that provide proper QT service, or LFS that has UV system in place to minimize spread of disease. 

    Coral Farm is one where i usually shop for fishes. Instead of the usual QT process, i usually observe the fishes in the QT for 3-4 weeks (without any medication) before releasing into the display tank, provided they are healthy and show no signs of any disease/parasites. 

     

  7. Here are my answers below, im no expert but these are my views and my QT process.

     

    1. Is the pump, sponge filter, bio-filter and carbon (might replace carbon with seachem purigen) all i need in this quarantine tank?

    Yes, that will be all you need, i would not use purigen too as it might absorb medications.

    2. Do i need the lights on? If yes, how long per day?

    Yes, i would leave it on for 8-10 hours a day so you can observe the fish in QT.

    3. I am using ReefMax Salt mix for my saltwater, do i need to add any other additives? Or should i use a different salt mix?

    Fishes are not particular about salt mix nor salinity. So long it is stable, it should be fine.

    4. Is it appropriate to add a rock in the tank?

    You can add some rocks but i would advise not too, rocks might absorb copper and it will be harder to achieve therapeutic levels.

    5. Do i need to leave the tank running even if i have no fish to quarantine yet, or only add saltwater and run the tank if there is new fish to quarantine?

    You do not need to leave the tank running if you have no fish to QT, but do note that you'll need to re-cycle the tank again when you have fishes to QT again. I personally leave my QT running 24/7.

    6. Do i have to do drip acclimatisation method for new fish before adding them into the quarantine tank? And another drip acclimatisation for quarantine tank to display tank?

    Personally, all i do is ensure salinity and temperature matches between transfer. just mixes water bit by bit till salinity matches. Of course, be careful not to pour water from the bag into your QT, and QT into your display.

    7. Is quarantine tank different for fish and corals?

    Generally QT for corals should be a fishless tank that matches the parameters of your display as close to as possible. QT for corals are more difficult to maintain, i personally do not have a QT for corals.

    8. Does 20% water change weekly apply to quarantine tank?

    That will depend on the medication you are using. If purely just copper (or QT without medication), then yes a 20% weekly WC would benefit the system overall, remember to dose enough copper in the fresh water going into the QT.

    9. What to look out for when the fish is in the quarantine tank?

    Look out for white spots (ich, velvet & brook), sunken stomach, white stringy poop, etc, etc.. Just a few to name. Generally, just ensure fishes are eating well and pooping well, especially when copper is used as some fishes such as angelfish and wrasse can be sensitive to certain type of copper. 

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