brojj

U re welcome.

Are u using LEDs?

Lights?

U can try bio homes (for suitable for salt water) in addition to the ceramic rings. To me, ceramic rings are meant mainly for fresh water tanks.

For Ca, i believe the test kit that u re using does not read more than 550ppm. U can get another test kit to confirm if u want. Dymax improved reef salt i do not use but all brands of reef salt will have their Ca & KH on the high side as they are meant for tanks with a significane populations of corals, mainly LPS or SPS tanks. U can use SeaChem phosguard if u re comfortable with it. The differences between the two, phosguard efficiency is very high at the beginning but performance drops very fast. For rowa, it tends to last longer with a high & consistent efficiency. U can pump water from your main tank, go thro' the FR holding the media & return the outlet from the FR to your tank. I guess that is the only way since u do not have a sump. Two Little Fish FR can hang onto the side of the tank. I hope your tank is thick enough. U can try throwing the whole bag of phosguard into the tank but i am not so optimistic about that, the efficiency. I believe u re using a 'hang on' skimmer too. Purigen i do not use them as there is some issue that worried me at that time which i have forgotten. So i can't comment on purigen.

Anyway i am still newbie in SPS keeping & cannot compare myself to them (old timers). I feel younger again. I am sure one day my tank will be as nice. Meanwhile, i will continue to enjoy the poison here. Come throw some more pics. I am developing more immunity already.

I suppose the colors of SPS does not depend on whether u re using Ca reactor or 2 parts dosing, more dependent on what lights are being used & the spectrum. Correct me if i am wrong but i have seem many beautiful SPS tanks using Ca reactors, like Dr Ang, Bro Kakani & Bro Max..... Why???

And u mentioned your tank is a month old? Too early to add in corals. I would advise u for wait for at least another 5 mths to start adding in corals. Meanwhile, u can get rowa, put them in a FR & use them to pull down your PO4. Get a good PO4 test kit & test weekly, replacing the rowa whenever the PO4 started to increase. U will need to test often & replace rowa quite often at this stage. It will become less frequent once under control. Also those algae, try to remove them manually, taking care not to leave any strands inside. I would recommend polylab reef resh to control your NO3 & PO4. I have seem my blue digi revive after using this. No joke. A good product for corals & SPS. Btw, if u want to keep SPS, wait for after a year when your tank is stable & parameters under control. Your high Ca is maybe cause by the salt mix & u don't have any corals that consume high amt of Ca yet, example, clams, LPS & SPS corals. I am not so worry about 550ppm yet. U can try to switch to normal salt if u re not keeping too much corals yet & the Ca will come down. Salinity of 1.023 to 1.026 should be ok although u have read success with 1.026. Top up with salt water to replace those evaporated water & measure the salinity everytime u do this till u get 1.026 from the whole tank, then, u can top up evaporated water with DI water when u reach the target or during water change, mix till u get a slightly high salinity, 1.03. Then measure the whole tank after adding in. The salinity should increase after a few cycle of water changes. Remember, go slow with this either 2 ways.

After removal, some more corals will perish because the water in your tank has been strip clean. Remember that photosynthesis of plants required some NO3 & PO4. Corals need some traces of them too. This is basic science that we have learn in school. Your corals are currently 'eating themselves' due to not enough nutrients in thw water for them to photosynthesis to produce enough food, resulting in bleaching. Check & confirm your ammonia, NO3, if this 2 are ok, highly possible as what i had mentioned. 2 packs of carbon is too much.

U re using too much carbon. U say u had already run your carbons for a week, that is more than enough to remove any toxic cause by the death of your bubble tip anemone. Reduce or remove them immediately now. For normal, one full tablespoon for every 50USgallon is enough to remove any yellowing. I have made the same mistake before & i did lose a few corals.

Your oblivion.... how come color so unique?

That is extreme. Did u shift to higher position to get the red PE? Mine still dark green with brown PE.

All so 'swee'. Any more hairy monster? More pls.

Collected. Beautiful species, both the pocci & blue staghorn. Going to spend next few hours acclimating them.

Go beijing 101. lol. Thks bro, for the tips. Maybe i feed them daily, which is too much.

Bro, what did u do to make them so hairy?

Thks YT. I will show tender loving care to this frag as what i am doing now to all my corals inside my tank.

Ok.

I did not know that untill i came across this while searching google on T5. Internet is an ocean of vast infos. I learn a lot of things from there. I took 2 weeks to read slowly & digest the infos.

Bro, u did the right thing to let it go back. Difficult to keep.

There is an optimum cooling rate for the light tubes. Too little or too much actually reduced the light tubes performance. Best to cool the tubes at the side & never at the center, if u intend to cool down the tubes as well.

50.

30

I am happy with T5 because it gives the colors to my SPS, the way most SPS keepers would want them to be. And with T5, there is no need to dial & adjust to the correct spectrum. T5 is super user friendly & with a good fixture, there is minimum heat transmit to the water. ATI sun power & ATI power module are good examples. A look at how they build & design their fixture, it is easy to know why minimum heat is deliver to the water.

Mantis shrimp hunt fishes for food. That is the reason why we cannot keep them with fishes. Compatibility issue. Best to keep it alone in another thick plastic tank.