LittleBurger

2hrs run n stop 3hrs correct. The aquarium chiller unable to chill a 3ft tank within 15mins(unless compressor type)

It's been a few days without a skimmer. While waiting for the arrival of the new skimmer pump(hope by next week), thought of a skimmer less setup(some people are doing it) come into mind. How about a sump that has nothing except cheato? Without the skimmer, I can see that the carnation coral and seafan are extended most of the time. And my remaining sps are doing ok(I'm not really into coloration but into having a mixed reef. It's good to have nice colored sps but not my top priority all along). As there were 2 changes which occurred during this time, (1) being my vortech pump short pulse to longer wave time but weaker (short pulse in short wave time but stronger wave seems to be too strong throughout the tank, nps can't seem to get their food. (2) being skimmer less, it is hard to determine if they are related. So once I restart my skimmer I should observe for changes. Found some nice sites for more reading. 1)http://animal-world.com/Aquarium-Coral-Reefs/Birds-Nest-Coral 2)http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/180538-acroporas-coral-guide/ 3)http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/fish/SouthFlorida/coral/Communities.html

getting me curious. Mind telling what's yr new hobby? Kinda sad losing another reefer.

Selling the gooseneck for e27 connection for $70. Does not come with par38 bulb. Interested pls pm me. Collection at bukit panjang .

thanks for the explanation. so if kh is low, all 3 bottles dose higher of same amount & vice versa? Thanks.

Actual company website http://aquarium-led-controller.com/product/bluefish-led-controller/

nope. But it's what I aiming to do, reefing without water change. I try not to chase the numbers game for no3, po4. So how much for a bottle and the capacity of a bottle? How's your monthly consumption? Thanks.

Bluefish led controller. http://reefbuilders.com/2014/03/27/bluefish-led-controller-preorder/

power supply, that's a great finding. High resistance, Low current, dim lights? So also due to heat? Will adding more heat sinks to the power supply help? I find that for radion n kessil, their ps quite hot. Last wk just went sim lim for 2 heatsinks with fins.

I only knows there might be difference like 1 spoon of ca might be different in ca concentration. That's the best eg I can think of. As for purity if they contain other compounds then hard to tell. Food grade quality might be hard to control. But many pple have been using food grade for a long time as what I've read from other forums.

Had placed order for a skimmer pump and hopefully to receive in early apr. While these 2 days without any skimmer, the carnation, seafans, Xmas worms and thorny oyster seems to be happy. Only got 3 types of sps namely horrida, millepora and fiber optic and so far polyp are still out. Have always wanted to keep a mixed reef and mimic part of a reef zone. The initial placement of the 2 vortech pumps were on same side panel left and right. But the non photosynthetic animals dun like the direct flow, too strong even if vortech is pulsating. Hard to catch hold of the suspended particulate food. Furthermore, the waves generated by the left & right vortech will converge to the centre and became very strong wave(even if in anti sync mode). Lps that inflate up will not be able to withstand the flow. The vortech pump 1 was moved to under pump2. But same thing again, at sync & anti sync, the flow will be strong at middle and left side of tank. Without much choice, at the expense of aesthetic, vortech pump1 is moved to its current position, opposite each other, in anti sync mode. This creates a true alternate wave throughout the tank. The previous 2 locations will have uneven alternate waves and strong laminar flow. Dispensing liquid and powder food for the nps have a higher capture rate. The idea of wave movement is from this pic below. The right side of the tank would be fore reef, top part of the first rockscape would be reef crest and moving towards the left would be reef flat. On the extreme left, where there's lesser light, it would be more of a "reef wall" for the nps.

if I read skip correctly. 1)No water change = reduced risk, as sometimes diff salt batches will have differing ca n kh n mg, salinity etc concentrations. 2)top up of fresh water =buy their filter media to use in conjunction with existing rodi system as rodi system not enough. 3)their trace elements solution of base element Z (all in one) usage will reduce the dosing error of individual compound such as potassium, boron, ca, kh, mg, etc. if certain compound too much, the algae will take in extra nutrient n grow and so that particular compound will not exceed limit. 4) can send our reef tank water for bi monthly analysis. U must have algae culture in your system to make it work. But strangely, the lighting they recommend using T 5. I guess it removes all carbon dosing like bio pellets. The rest on maintenance I find tat it is what a diligent reefer will do. Change activated carbon n po4 resin, removal of algae. When using the base element z, u just need to monitor kh. Rest of parameters all Bo chap. This is gd as u can save money on the test kits n less auto doser, I like a 1 solution dosing, simple n the less variables u have in an equation, it consistency can be maintained. Hope I interpreted correctly.

Damn sian that this morning was looking at my refugium and discovered that the mini red dragon 1200 pump for my double cone had kaput, barely 2 yrs and 4mths. The internal of the pump is clean, without any deposits that will hinder the movement. After googling and comparing the symptoms, the likely cause is failure of the motor block. Jin disappointed with bubble king. Been reading on forums of people complaining the quality of the pumps and never expected that it will happen to me. In the midst of looking for a replacement skimmer pump. Probably will go skimmer less for about 6-7days...

should have taken pics of the pumps in hr interval to show the effectiveness. A video would be better...

Wonder if the fishermen out there are being paid the same increment ratio as the price increase in sg. wat I observe is livestock more ex in the USA but equipment cheaper. Sg is the reverse. All thanks to our rental lord that things are more ex. I feel that so long the livestock is in gd condition and sellers have good customer service, I wouldn't mind paying for it. U sell stuff but act like big shot, then sorry I rather spend my money elsewhere.

Hi Jamie, thanks for your inputs. It's good to have someone to discuss on this. Wonders does the companies of his test subjects will do anything to rebut his finding. I consider the test subjects in Henning's test to be expensive fixtures, which is the reason I'm shock about the degradation of par after a year. I know that good things dun come cheap and hope that expensive stuff better be good.

u not keeping corals? Then dun need so frequent water change le. If only fishes n invertebrates, can consult pple who are in fowlr.

firstly, I started this thread is to have awareness for consumers to understand abt led fixtures after someone(not a big company I suppose) took the time and effort to conduct some tests. Tests on par, kelvin, watts, lumens etc. which are what the light companies have been using to advertise their lights to inform the public to buy their lights. Tests which the consumers(aquarists)look at when they first look at the lighting fixtures. What I am hoping is since companies have more $ and smart people around, they should be able to conduct tests to counter Henning's hypothesis, unless they dun have confidence in their own products or they simply know Henning's is right. Consumers pay for what the companies advertise. It's not about hammering a square peg into a round hole. If consumers buy stuff without thinking, then I probably would set up a company and sell stuff to them.... Ignorant consumers, easy money. By the time when the habitants of reefers' tank start to show problems, definitely responsible reefers would conduct the same tests. And if the tests coincide with Henning's, then it would be a coffin nail into the hole. I hope a lighting company will take the lead and prove otherwise Henning's finding. It will definitely get the attention and win some market share.

Got the hydor cleaning agent n ezclean cleaning agent for coralline algae. Hydor comes in pack of 3 in a box. 1 pack dissolve in 1/2 gallon of water. Ezclean in powder form. 6 spoonful in 1/2 liter of water. I used hydor 1 pack and dissolved in 1/2 liter of water as i was afraid 1/2gallon would be too dilute and unable to remove the coralline algae. After submerging my 1st vortech pump for 2hrs as recommended, I tried using a brush to remove the coralline algae and only the surface of the algae can be scrubbed . But a thick layer of algae remained. The pump was submerged for another 2hrs and the algae did not budge. I poured away the old solution and make a new solution with a new pack, with more water this time. But after few hrs, nothing changed. I gave up. Took the pump and used my finger nails to manually remove as much algae as possible. This is the remaining algae on the 1st vortech. Then my 2nd vortech pump got the bath. I got the ezclean. This Within 1/2hr, u see a layer of foam on the surface of the solution. Took out the pump and using my thumb to rub the coralline algae. It came off like buttercream. Continued to soak the pump for an hour. This is how the pump looked. Ezclean took little time to remove the coralline algae and using a brush, it's as easy as brushing toothpaste off the teeth.

Wonder anyOne going do a 1/3 front of sunken ship for reefing...

saw at coral farm last sat. Not sure male or female. At the end, 1st row, left side tanks.

actually I just feels he's putting tat sentence as being "polite" to the manufacturers and concerned of being flame by diehard supporters. I feel that the measurement methods conducted by him may somewhat be the same as that utilize by the light manufacturers. As I feel there isn't much high tech equipment involved when testing the various parameters. How I reached this conclusion is all the product pamphlets from the manufactures are showing the charts of the same parameters being tested. I agree that different light fixtures uses different grade LEDs which would correlate to quality issues due to profit margin. However most of these light fixtures are not cheap. And consumers shouldn't be paying for a highly priced USA/Europe made light fixtures but its performance can only last 2-3years due to known & unknown parts quality issue which affect the high quality LED's performance. I do understand the led tech is still young but parts quality which lead to reduction of led performance(heat highest factor) shows the poor R&D of a company. They could have use some methods to determine the failure rate of the parts that directly affect the heat dissipation of the led. In my eyes, they are no different from Chinese made light fixtures. Just use high quality LEDs (if they really do) add some heat sinks n fans n make a fanciful housing with programmable logics and price it highly. I hope the light manufacturers take note of Henning's test and make an effort to show the longevity of their product. That way, they can increase the market share. I know people embrace new technology and tends to change frequently but my opinion is after some time, u will realize that changing of led fixtures is different from changing a mh bulb. Whole livestock risk is involved.

can go sim lim tower and ask. Maybe can get a reasonably priced one.

coral farm got lots of sand dollars last sat. U can call to ask auntie.

so everything turn out fine? I think the USA ato cost abt sgd 100. Sg selling abt 140+.