raymondpua

Planning for my future 3x2x2 with sump build to max the cabinet can contain. Total capacity max 400l. Intend to use Artica 1/4hp chiller, f/rate 1800l/h - 7200l/h, capacity up to 980l. Chiller will be outside cabinet. Option 1: Should I have a return pump (say Eheim 1262 f/rate 3400l/h) + a pump for chiller (2000l/h) with its cooled return pointing towards the return pump intake so that hopefully the cooled water is immediately taken in by the return pump's intake. But this would mean the chiller may be cooling the already cooled water assuming the return pump did not intake all the cooled water back into the main tank, and hence probably the water temperature not constant and chiller working hard and not efficient. Option 2: OR should I use a 5000l/h return pump connected to chiller and have the chiller's return conncected directly to the return pipe . This would mean the cooled water is piped back to the main tank directly. This case seems better as in the cooled water is directly pumped back into the main tank and I uses 1 pump less and also increases my tank flow/hr, assuming headloss of 1500l/h(piping+chiller+elbows), to 8.5x (5000-1500 / 400). Whaich option is better? Regarding the chiller. I can actually use a smaller Artica, 1/5hp (f/rate 1800l/h-4800l/h, capacity 680l). Did sizing calculation and is sufficient but am thinking of the 1/4hp. Ambient temp + equipment temp etc 31C, intended temp 25C. For 1/5hp it will take about 3.2hr to cool from 31C to 25C and subsequent cooling from +1C will take about 1hr. If using the 1/4hp chiller, it probably will take half the time to cool from +1C hence less power consumped. Am I right in this assumption or am I spending unnecessarily for a bigger chiller?

Seen artifical rocks, nicely created into shapes, at Upp Serangoon's Golden Octopus. Owner says just need to soak in normal water for 2 days and change water to get rid of any possible manufacturing dust/toxic and can be used like LR. This is better than LR cos sure no bristle worms etc. If there are bristle worms then it is definitely from coral's base. What he says may be true but what about those good baterial that inhibits on LR? Will they also inhibit on these artificial stuff?

So does it mean that tank maker Y is right that is a must to have baffles? and I need 2 sets of the baffles to reduce/remove all the micro bubbles? meaning skimmer compartment, then 1st set baffles, then compartment for reactors, then 2nd set baffles, before final compartment for returm flow?

Planned tank size 3x2x2 I got tank maker X telling me that my sump needs only 2 compartments since sump will be small: 1st about 1ft for filter(water from tank) and 2nd about 20inches for placing skimmer, reactor, return pump etc. No need for baffling panels. Tank maker Y tells me a must for baffling pnels else I will get lotsa micro bubbles from the skimmer. Filter bag will not help me to remove the micro bubbles and even if it does, how am i going to fix it to the skimmer. Understands Y's view about micro bubbles but with baffles, my small sump will end up having no room for accessories, right? If to have baffles, which I understand per set consists 3 glass panels about 1" apart, how many set must I have? Is the sump going to be 1st compartment for water into filter, 2nd for skimmer, then baffles, then into last compartment for reactors and return flow? A little confused who is right. Pls advise.

Sorry am new here but sharing my little knowledge. Your tank seems to be a little too deep. My understanding is that 'cos marine fishes are territorial hence they requires horizontal space rather than depth.

Thank you

Hi dunno if have got ur tank made. Anyway I'm plainning my new set up soon n have been looking around. I spoke to CR Aquarium. They custom make tank n come with cabinet. Good advise given to me too. U may wanna try visiting their office. Address is Blk 1009 Eunos Ave 6. Is Eunos Industrial area. 5mins ealking from Eunos MRT. U won't missed it. Call 96289479 b4 u go down in case no one there to entertain u

Understand your point. But is it true that the effective range of T5 is up to 18inches water depth?

I intend to set up a 3x2x2 tank with 6xT5 lighting. Was told by someone to reduce the depth of my tank to 20inches(max22) instead of 24(2ft). This is cos the effective range of the T5 is about 18inches. Can someone tell me is this true? The explanation given was that for 20inches depth, I got top 2inches unuse(tank top to water level) plus a 2inches substrate, hence giving me 16inches of water depth which is within the T5 lights effective range.