Polypterus

That's because Hyflux's RODI systems are probably more expensive and more efficient than yours.

Tako Balls are interactive in their own right.

Not true. Mimics and Wunderpus' are bad specimens, even shorter lifespans, more demanding of water quality and more expensive. I think its unlikely to find a good, interactive octopus species in Singapore.

No typical squid has been known to survive in home aquaria for a measurable amount of time. Don't piss the thing off. It'll run straight into the tank wall and that's it. Skim for the ink with carbon, or the squid will suffocate in it. No reef tank, they need a lot of space to move and are not reef friendly anyway. Try sepia bandensis next time, you'll probably like it better.

Different species do not mate, especially if they come from different genera. Doesn't look like aggression to me though.

Based on some research, they are actually not requiring of extremely good tank conditions, although we should all strive to attain that for maximum results. As I remember it, most importantly, the tank cannot have any traces of copper. Additionally, we should be feeding a variety of foods, dead and live. Run carbon during inking, ink can suffocate an octopus during its long acclimation process.

Impossible.

A good skimmer can deal with the ink quite quickly.

What!? Mysis are naturally HUFA enriched creatures that are hard to rear, but are certainly a very high quality food, though their size can be called into question when it comes to feeding larger cephalopods. I do not advocate the feeding of fish; it is probably an unnatural product for the octopus to feed on. You'll probably want to do prawns, clean shellfish, saltwater crabs, and similar crustaceans. Don't feed freshwater products, the octopus will die from malnutrition.

http://www.tonmo.com/cephcare/BimacCareSheet.php Isn't a very wise idea to get one you know, you can't add anything else into the tank, doesn't live long. Pays to get a small specimen. By the way, the caresheet seems like it has got some of the parameters wrong. No nitrites, ammonia and hopefully little or no nitrates. Get one that doesn't have to feed on mysid shrimp. They're are a pain as far as I know, to keep alive.

My apologies. Large Mantis shrimp break glass, it is the pistol shrimp that do not.

A lot of misinformation in this thread. I was interested in this some time ago. Peacock mantis' are one of the biggest mantis shrimp. Nonetheless, there are no documented accounts of glass breaking, much less acrylic(bends, doesn't quite break) in captivity. These are hardy creatures, their bio load is relatively high but they do not die easily. They can be an issue to feed. http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/arthropoda/crustacea/malacostraca/eumalacostraca/royslist/index.html#directory Look for Odontodactylus scyllarus. http://www.blueboard.com/mantis/faq.htm General FAQ. http://www.blueboard.com/mantis/care/maintain.htm General Caresheet. When you want to keep something, do it right.

Don't try to get the spiny box puffer. Those are semi-rare in the hobby and in the wild, full of parasites, and hellishly hard to feed. Same personality is a plus though. I hope you have checked out to see the differences in identification of diodon holocanthus, liturosus, hystrix. All the best, I'm hoping to get one next year. ^^.

Considered a pest anemone. You are waiting for...?

Get the smaller specimens, they adapt to captivity better. Nice box!

That's real decent of you. I'll just be a bit worried about cost, I don't think you'll be paying $300, you'll probably be paying a fair bit more perhaps?

Ozone can kill you if used wrongly, do your research if you must.

Porcupine Puffers are a easy fish to keep AFTER you get past the start up. The first thing you should note, get a Diodon Holocanthus, AKA long spined porcupine puffer, these get to maximum 20" in the wild, and 12" in a 125 gallon. Diodon hystrix and liturosus become extremely large, about 3ft for the first one and about 2ft for the second. Identify them yourselves by googling. Please know that the recommended minimum tank size by far is 125 gallons, and should never ever be any smaller, or you risk the puffer dying. Just imagine yourself putting a 30cm dog in a tank smaller than 125 gallons. These fish have dog like personalities, and must also have a cover, because they spray water at you as you approach when they know you better. DO NOT FEED FREEZE DRIED ITEMS. These cause lockjaw which are a PITA to cure, and is almost nearly fatal. Do not use copper or organic dyes to treat the fish(Melafix, Malachite blue/green. Feed hard shelled items and feed a variety of them, this is also a must. Each puffer has each its own personality, and a lot of it. Do not feed fish if you want this puffer not to eat his tankmates, seriously. Even then, mix at risk, tangs are good matches, no triggers,no other puffers, no invertebrates. Oversized skimmer and live rock for filtration, 1.023-1.025 SG, typical pH.