DottyClown

Where u placed it, in terms of flow?

I don’t recall ever seeing a single photo in any of your SELL post, past 1-2 months. Photos will make the sale easier. You have problem posting photos?

To me, water changes are for 2 main purpose. Replenish trace elements and export nutrients. If your water parameters are all within range, then technically there is no need to change water. I have heard of many reefers not changing water for months. They monitor their water closely, dose if needed, nutrients are exported sufficiently, thus don’t find no need to change.

Left side will touch the tank wall? If plan to clean wall then need move it away a bit.

If you are referring to DSB, then I believe it is not supposed to be stirred. Or at the most, only the very top layer to be “cleaned”. if you are referring to normal sand bed that’s, say around 1” or so, then they can be regularly stirred/cleaned. But if it has not stirred/cleaned for months, don’t do the whole tank at one cleaning. Do small area first time, then subsequently gradually increase the area during each cleaning. This is just to play safe not to stir up too much shit into the water column. Above just my 2 cents worth because I don’t have DSB.

Does anyone knows which LFS carries Tetra Test Strips?

Would like some recommendation on easy to use Test Kits. Are those 5-in-1 type of test strips accurate enough for a Non-SPS tank?

Didn’t you just started your tank less than 3 weeks ago? You can’t have finished your cycling so fast. My guess is the fish was too stressed out because tank is not ready for inhabitants yet and thus in its weakened state, it got attacked by whatever its body had been able to fend off previously. Would suggest you quickly give up the surviving clownfish to someone with an established tank. Patience is key in this hobby.

Yes, the tank water should go through the sponge filter first, before going to any other media like your bio-bricks. So have to move your Skimmer to 2nd chamber. I’m not familiar with bio-bricks, but you maybe can consider placing them in a media bag (or tie them together) before putting at the bottom of the chamber. This way, easier to remove from the narrow chamber if you need to take them out for rinsing. Or if they do break into smaller pieces, you have less headache “fishing” for all the loose pieces.

If you manage to block the light, then should not have issue of excessive algae growth through sunlight. But you may have issue with temperature and water loss.

Usually you want to have the mechanical filter (ie. Filter sponge) in the first chamber before anything else. So it can filter out most of the detritus before it runs through the rest of your system. You can have your bio bricks in first chamber, after your filter. If you have your bio-bricks in front, then it will become clogged with detritus very fast. Not familiar with WaterBox, but is the water level in the compartments meant to be so high in all compartments? Noted that you will be using fan for cooling. So you will have significant water level drop daily, which may affect skimmer operations. Might want consider get an ATO to counter that, unless you monitor very frequently.

Since it’s for cycling and such a big volume, why not just get salt water mix straight from a LFS?

Increase your water change frequency, % or both. Should clear in few weeks time if current parameters not out too by much. Siphon out as much cyano as possible when changing. Else for quicker fix, can consider Red Slime Remover, ChemiClean or similar. But do read up on it as different reefers have different experience with it.

Skimmer helps “plucks” the organic nutrients out from the water.

Any Skimmer?