AhLoon

Thank you all for the interest in my murderer. Trigger sold.

Another shot.

I'm selling my picasso @ $5. Size is around 1 1/2 to 2 inch, amazing appetite, makes plenty of noise in the water (i tot its the snail at times) and worst of all, attacks my other fishes. I naively thought that if it's nurtured from young and well fed, it won't bother its tankmate... damn i'm wrong. Sincere buyers feel free to PM me. Price non-negotiable (damn cheap liao, I only owned it for 9 days... ).

I wished I have your luck. My picasso was ignoring its tankmate for around 5 days. Suddenly, my purple queen and yellow eye kole tang were attacked to death by it. Damn sian. It took me considerable effort to climatise my purple queen... No more triggers for me in future. I'll be putting up a sale later in the sale forum later. See if anybody is interested and I'll let go liao...

1)shoelevy 2)ahloon

wow your bubbles are great. Damn big. How did you do it? What did you feed it with? Placement? I got 1 myself and i never got it grown bigger than "5 cents per bubble".

In my limited experience, besides keeping the parameters correct, I try to give the right diet. I'll always give the vegies first than the mysis/brine shrimps. IMPO, I guess the chiller plays a part too. Not that it keeps the tank cool, but the "grounding" it provides. All electrical products will share a common ground. That includes the core of the chiller. Water passes thru the core, and gets "grounded" in the process...

just checked my 6x sterilizer just now again. No tiny transparent plastic at the other end as described by jd_n. jd_n: Perhaps yours is the 12x? I did recall seeing something like that on the 12x. rest: anybody using the 6x got that piece of transparent plastic at the end of the tube? Anyway, i did the test with the uv tube exposed for half a second. The uv did function. *relieved* What bothers me is the status of the UV that I can't ascertain during normal operation.

just checked my 6x sterilizer just now again. No tiny transparent plastic at the other end as described by jd_n. jd_n: Perhaps yours is the 12x? I did recall seeing something like that on the 12x. rest: anybody using the 6x got that piece of transparent plastic at the end of the tube? Anyway, i did the test with the uv tube exposed for half a second. The uv did function. *relieved* What bothers me is the status of the UV that I can't ascertain during normal operation.

Head and Lateral Line Errosion

05/10/04 The scales are starting to grow back. Personally, its damn gratifying to see my scopas recover from HLLE.

05/09/04

Just like to share the HLLE recovery of my scopas. As of 29/08/04

thanks everybody. will check it out again.

Hi Xperiment 626, Thanks for taking time to reply. Pardon my ignorance, where is the light at the end of the tube? I can't find any lights or LED at all...

Feed slightly more frequent than normal to get it to eat... thats all i can say. Try mixing it with garlic (works well as an "enticer" too) IMO, sometimes this kind of thing depends on luck, i.e. if the fish is caught with cyanide and you bought it, it most probably is not going to be eating. If it does, it may not pass motion normally too as the cyanide may had damaged its internals....

I guess you can soak the live rock in freshwater for some time to force it out.

Dear all, This may sound stupid, but in my haste to fix up the coralife 6x sterilizer, i did not check if the uv light is working before fixing up. Now that everything is hooked up and running, I am not sure if the uv is in operation. I dread the notion of dismantling everything to test the uv tubes... According to the description at the back of the box, it states that there is supposed to be a glow on the main body of the sterilizer. I did not observe this at all. Any kind folks out there who'd used this can shed some light on this matter?

Hi all, I'd realised that the instructions for using the PH tests described the use of 2 drops of PH1 to 5ml of tank water. The funny thing is that my package comes with a bottle labeled "F", not "PH1" as stated in the instuction slip. Is this normal?

somemore...

Here's mine for today's fireworks....

Hi guys, I can feel your pain and anguish, for I'd been a victim of ICK myself. I did quite a fair bit of research (on the internet) after the painful experience. The first time I fought ick I lost, my YT and regal blue learnt backstroke .... After 2 months I got a new regal blue and battled ick for 1 entire month before the ick subsided. It was another 1 month aftermath before I started stocking tangs again. Just like to share how I did it. Assume that all water parameters are correct; I totally agree with AlfaRomeo. Stop stocking for 2 months will definitely see to the end of ick. Besides, I personally find it particularly useful to shorten the life cycle of ick by raising the water temperature to room temperature (i.e. 32 degree celsius... may not work for all since corals are in the equation as well). In addition, during these period, try not to rescape your tank or do anything to stress your LS. As usual, garlic do wonders for raising fishes immunity towards ick and the rest depends on fate. (assuming no UV filter being used). Garlic guard, formula 2 flakes quite useful. Good luck.