R0B

Congrats on thinking about an AWC it would imho certainly improve the quality of your tank, however there are a few things to consider with both options You said about relying on sensors, well the Autoaqua smart AWC has an additional timer safety feature so it won't overrun hence not reliant on sensors alone. The good point about the use of float sensors as the primary control is that they allows the system to replace exactly what it pulls out irrespective of what pumps you use for either input or output, so there is no need to calibrate pumps to match volumes. (I believe autoaqua also offers additonal plug version so you can use higher power pumps as needed but I think those small pumps are surprisingly strong) By Neptune/Kamoer I assume you mean a dosing pump system like the neptune dos, ghl maxi or a 4 head dosers as opposed to an aquarium controller (neptune apex) and dosing pump setup, as they aren't cost comparative. Obviously a controller could do all this and much much more.. which is something to consider if you were going down that path anyways. A dosing pump setup only really uses a timer so you have less safety features in unlikely event anything goes wrong. With a doser you will have to semi regularily calibrate the dosing heads to draw and expel water at same volume to avoid a salinity drift over time. Further you need to avoid activating the ATO (Oh that reminds me, you will still need to have a seperate ATO with this option). Furthermore unless you have a large headed system or continuous dosing pump (like versa) the normal dosers aren't really designed for large volume migrations. That said I used a cheap Jebao doser doing awc for years and it worked just fine (two heads for output and two for input to avoid any issue if a head wasn't calibrated, and loads of little changes every 30-45mins to avoid the ATO triggering) That said, both options have other benefits. The Auto aqua AWC also acts as an ATO system so you save money by not getting a seperate ato (or selling your current one haha) whilst a quality doser obviously can also be used for adding supplements if you have spare heads. Personally I have always liked the look of the autoaqua system, and think it is well thought out little system. But it is costly so I saved my pennies and got a controller instead. Good luck. Let us know what you decide to go with. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

There are certain strains of bacteria that don't enter our systems unless we purposefully place them there. So adding a spectrum of bacteria allows for that population to occur. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I guess you have a fair few different options. So you may want to think about usage first. Is it for algea control or for disease control? If for algea, operating it as a closed loop with the main display is the best option. For disease it is better to run at slower flow rates. Regarding mounting. Firstly one option is to mount it to the roof above the sump (assuming you have adequate surface and depth of surface - dont want to drill into tank!). This keeps it out of the way! Second option is to have it mounted on a side or back wall . With both of these options make sure the way you access the lamp is facing towards you for ease of access. Final option as I see it is to mount it vertically near the back leg of the stand. I guess all these depend on your tank and stand... maybe a little more info about your set up will help Easiest way to plumb is via a manifold coming off your return pump, Or you can have a dedicated pump. Either way you need to control the flow into the UV a gate valve is so much more accurate then a ball valve. Hope that helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

As with most reef related pollutants the "solution is dilution" with a good okd fashioned water change. Dosing Citric acid will deplete alkalinity, and impact calcium so you will need to monitor and then slowly add a little extra alk in each water change (just a little!). Also you have just accidentally added a carbon source so depending on how much was added you may want to watch for bacteria blooms (which will later impact oxygen levels). But from the sounds of it, there was onoy a small amount added so most likely you will see no impact at all. Good luck. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

There are many types of hermit crabs and most are reef safe (no guarantees). Paguritta tend to be filter feeding crabs so you should be okay. Tidal gardens did a video on Paguritta crabs... For crab info check out https://reefguide.org/index25.html#Right-Handed_Hermits to confirm the identify you new tank mate. Then use which has more info https://www.reeflex.net/kategorie/51.html#paguritta Looks like an added benefit from what I can see. Let me know if you interested in letting one go, as would be keen to increase the bio-diversty in my tank haha. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Brightwell neo nitro uses a mix of both potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate. You could use Laudwolf sodium nitrate 99.6% (which is food grade from nine life.sg). To be honest I don't find a real cost saving vs. commercial products for nitrate. Plus you need to be careful of the dose vs. increases in salinity. Here is a good calculator to help you. http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

(assumung you were talking about fish QT). A Fishes motabolism increases with temperature so their resting heart rate will go up as water tempreture increases. Further as tempreature goes up the amount of dissolved oxygen decreases. Certain medications will further deplete the oxygen levels. If a fish has some parasite or infection of the gills it is going to struggle to breathe already, add in the increase in tempreture and well it could be all a little too much. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Yes that's the idea. Just keep a spare in the Main Display sump. Just take a small amount. Meds... the idea is to prevent any disease entering the main display tank. We don't know what fish has (internally, in their gills or externally) so we treat as a preventative measure. This way your main display will be safe (well more safe) from a potential outbreak. It's the difference between Management and Cure. The danger is if you wait to treat when you see symptoms, it could very well be that the other fish will have it too. Worst case they die and kill all your coral in the process. Best case is you capture them all and have to treat them anyways for 70-90days (which in a non chilled tank could be hard). Personally you are heading in the right direction with a QT tank. Sadly many LFS don't quarantine. Which also means that distributors are also not pressured nor incentivised to provide disease free fish. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

1. You can take down your QT system once fish have gone through the treatment. Clean and throughly dry equipment throw away sponges. When time to start up again can take water from Main Display and if you keep a bag of media in your main display sump you can use this to restart your quarantine tank (so no mini cycle occurs). Suggest you discard the bio media afterwards. (So I use the cheap stuff) 2. Keeping chilled QT is a difficult without it's own chiller. Try to keep tank cool as possible 28 is max (fans, frozen bottles of rodi whatever you can). Issue is fishes metabolism is higher as temperatures increase, which can cause stress. No easy answer except try best to keep chilled. Prior to putting into MD I use a series of small frozen RODI bottles to keep temps as close as can to that of main display. As far as placement, Suggest you place in bag and acclimate in MD. Drip will struggle to change temp but rather match room temp. 3. Meds. Good question. You can either treat specific issues or prohyliactically (I.e. as a prevention meassure). Be careful to make sure if your new fish are sensitive to any specific treatment. First suggest you dip fish even before QT to reduces any irritants. There are many fish dips. Also a 3 min rodi dip also can although some fish absolutely hate this so read up first. The main two treatments would be copper (for ich) and praziquantel (treats parasites). It is possible to mix the two treatments together but the copper will reduce prazi's effectiveness. Typically as you slowly increase your copper over time suggest you start with prazi for 24 to 72 hours (praxipro, prazigold). Then Treat copper for 15 days plus (even 30days max). If can figure out how to add in the two tank method as you go along then it will be beneficial. Beyond that there is the likes of metroplex (ich and velvet), kanaplex (fungal and bacterial) and neoplex (which is a antibiotic). Here you can use a product called focus to bind them to foods. Also methlyene blue for fungal infections is sometimes used. But with all meds be careful and cautious. Start slowly. Remember to add airstone as some meds reduce oxygen levels. 4. How long?. This really depends on treatment and success rate. But expect a minimum of 3weeks. You can do as short or as long as you like. If your Qzt has chiller then can go longer also. Some fish struggle and are more sensitive So be careful of selecting fish and Tailor trestments to suit accordingly. Re stress. hint I use water from my main display. So if I change water in MD it goes into my QT system this way fish get used to main display ph and salinity over time. Hope this helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

No, not at a level where the copper is useful. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Ok no point suggesting as Orphek v4 would be an amazing set up haha. That said... The benefit of the Orphek is the blanket of light it provides; another way to achieve this is with something like the Aquaticlife T5 hybrid. I have this with three radion g4 xr15's and four T5's (2 blue plus, 1 actinic and 1 coral plus). I believe kessil is the go to combination here vs radion. With the advances in LEDs that you can now replace the T5 with either Reef Brites (Note in recent weeks BRSTV suggest an all reefbrite system) or Orphek OR3 blue plus. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Nice. Wiring is a pain and even if you tidy, once you have to remove anything you will only have to untangle it once more. Best hide it away hahaha. But nice space. Is that a kill switch? (Orange lights). How does that work? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Most likely either the RO membrane needs replacement (or hasn't been installed correctly - it needs to be pushed into the housing fairly strongly) or there is an issue with the DI resin. What you can do is move the TDS probe and place it just after the RO membrane to check what is coming out. It should be low single digits. If it's any higher then 4 or 5 you probably need a new membrane. If its low digits then it most likely the DI. I have the exact same machine. It is truly a great machine as it handles all the auto flushing etc. I consistently get 0tds out of it. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

There are many ways to configure sumps and it looks like a nice space you have. You could consider the following by section 1) drainage, 2) mechanical filtration, 3) skimmer, 4) bio blocks along with reactors and return. Here are some more thoughts... First section this is where you would drain the water. Three pipes coming from the tank (?). Second section has glass brackets and is designed for overflow into the section so this is designed for mechanical filtration. Here you could get some glass or acrylic cut with holes for filter socks and place on lower shelf. Similarily Upper shelf use for course filter pad. A roller filter would be ideal but a fish only system it may be overkill. Third section has underflow exiting this section on the left and height is set by the fifth baffle, as such this would make for a difficult refugium placement. Hence i suggest instead use this for skimmer as any micro bubbles would be forced to break on baffles to the right of the section so if you place skimmer anywhere this is probably best place. This brings us to the final large section... wow that is a lovely piece of real estate. Given a refugium is going to be difficult to place here (without adding a few baffles) I suggest you load with bio bricks (but still have flow) and place Reactors as necessary. An ATS would be awesome. As said there are many configurations so would be interesting to hear what others come up with... but looks like a good little system. Keep us posted as to progress. Good luck. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

My understanding is that for some reagents you can use for both fresh and saltwater however the colour cards you use to read the results will be different (API conversions for example https://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Downloads.html). However, the JBL ProScan is not designed for use with saltwater. The scales of measurement apply only to freshwater Hence suggest you pick up saltwater test kits. If cost is an issue just get Nitrate, as this is all you basically need for cycle. Salifert is 'goto' brand for most people as is fairly reliable. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Yes it will (but it could be marginal depending on the total water volume of the tank). As oxygen permeates the water through the surface what you are actually doing with an air stone is agitating the surface and creating more surface area via the bubbles, you are not 'injecting' air per se. A skimmer does this but the surface area it creates is an order of magnitude bigger then an air stone. That said any agitation is better then none! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

All things in your reef tank react with oxygen. Fish, invertebrates, areobic bacteria all consume oxygen and expel co2. Zooxanthellae create oxygen, and corals use this to help them remove waste. Whilst dissolved organics need oxygen to enable them to break down. As such it's no surprise that Coral reef health (and colouration) has been shown to be heavily linked to the level of dissolved oxygen (DO). Despite it being at the centre of life within your tank, it is one of the least known and certainly least tested parameters in the reef aquaria. So I thought I would take some time to try and shed some light on this interesting parameter and hopefully show why some reefers are now starting to use Dissolved Oxygen (DO) measurements to help them keep their mini ecosystems in peak condition and tune their systems accordingly. First off, what is DO? Well it is the amount of non-bound free floating oxygen within the water column. Dissolved oxygen enters water through the air or as a plant byproduct. From the air, oxygen can slowly diffuse across the water’s surface from the surrounding atmosphere, or be mixed in quickly through aeration/water agitation. From plants it arrives in the form of photosynthesis. What impacts DO? The level of dissolved oxygen is impacted by several primary factors; these being Altitude, Salinity and Temperature. Regarding Altitude, we dont need to worry too much as here in Singapore we are basically at sea level, however, if you moved your reef tank to Denver Colorado due to it's altitude the tank would have 12% less oxygen (note the best place to keep a tank based on this is Jordan). Hmmm does that mean reef tanks in a high HDB is more difficult to run then in landed house hahaha. As for temperature, the level of DO decreases as temperature increases. A reef tank running at 24c will have 6.5% more DO then a tank running at 26c (c.6.42mg/L). Hence, the advice on needing a chiller is starting to have even more validity. Salinity also plays a part, all be it slightly smaller. A tank with 1.026 salinity has 3% less DO then one running at 1.024. Hmmm maybe I should keep my quarantine system at a slightly lower salinity(?) Beyond the primary impacts DO can change based on several other factors. Bacteria.... Clogged substrate or filters will reduce DO as bacteria replicate to cope with the detritus and thus increase their consumption of oxygen as they breakdown the trapped nutrients. Hence abnormal levels of DO can indicate when your filtration or substrate is past its best. Clean substrate helps promote higher levels of DO. So now you have one more reason to clean your sand and move form socks to roller filters! Additional bacteria. Some bacterial blends indicate that there is no risk of over dosing your tank on bacteria. That is generally true, unless your tank is oxygen deficient where additional bacteria can lead to coral discoloration as well as RTN is severe cases as DO is rapidly consumed. So if you add bacteria do make sure you run additonal DO generating methods such as aeration. Over stocking. Fish consume oxygen and produce waste, which then further requires additional bacteria to break it down, consuming even more DO. As such DO levels can be heavily impacted by the amount and size of fish you have in your system, and as such DO can be used to indicate over feeding as well as overstocking. All things being equal if you notice DO dropped when you added in your last fish, and you are close to low DO levels (6-8mg/L) then maybe it's time to stop adding fish (or improve your DO production). Further a sudden DO drop can indicate a fish fatality as decomposition will lower your DO. Poor gas exchange. Gas exchange is key as it is a primary source of DO. Hence a low flow system with little of the correct agitation will result in lower DO. As will aquarium size. Deeper tanks will have lower DO then shallower tanks even if they have the same capacity.. Which is often why low frag systems have better DO then display systems. Medications can impact DO levels. Whilst this is more of a QT thing, it may well be that copper treatments may have to be dialed back if your DO is not sufficiently high enough (possibly rendering the treatment ineffective). So make sure you have high DO by aeration, gas exchange etc. Lack of photosynthesis. If you have no photosynthetic corals then a refugium is a must if you want to manage your DO. So now we have an idea on what impacts DO. What is the result of not managing DO and running a low DO system? Firstly, let's look at the impact on fish .... It is worth noting that some fish can tolerate lower DO then others. Tropical saltwater fish like Angelfish need higher levels of DO to do well (close to 14mg/L) whilst deep sea fish can be more tolerant. As a generalisation, most fish we get in the hobby are from reefs which grow in the top part of the ocean. Hence, the more we move away double digit DO levels the more stressful it is on our fishy friends. Okay (leaving the best until last) what about my Corals? How does the level of DO impact them?? Well, remember I mentioned that corals use oxygen to remove waste. This 'respiration' is stimulated by elevated levels of DO and limited by it when DO declines. Thus, corals living in high DO environments (12mg/L+) exhibit much stronger growth and colouration. Presumably as they are able to expel waste more efficiently they can use their energy for more exciting things like colour and growth! For low DO systems the opposite is true. Scientists have studied the impact of DO on coral floresencnce and helath. They note that colour starts to dissipate significantly at low DO levels (below 6mg/L). They further observed that if DO drops below 4mg/L well that is simply bad news! Whilst corals can tolerate reduced oxygen concentrations below 4mg/L, this is only for a short periods of time and only if it's just below 4mg/L. Exceeding this threshold of time and/or concentration leads to rapid loss of coral tissue (RTN) and mortality. Apparently death of a coral will always occur at DO levels below 2mg/L. But hold on! Doesn't the level of DO go down at night? Yep it does, and this is I feel an interesting point. Scientists have also shown a link between the colouration of corals and the level of low DO at night (aka 'Dark resporation'). They found that corals can physically handle these lower DO levels as they are 'temporary' and the DO levels pick up after dawn. However, they did find that corals suffer pigmentation loss if the dark respiration occurs in low levels of DO. As such keeping DO above 6mg/L especially at night is important if you want your corals to pop! This is an interesting note and promotes the use of skimming for gas exchange (especially at night as I know some people switch off their skimmer) as well as keeping water movements high even at night, as well as the additional benefit of running a reverse light cycle on your refugium for additonal photosynthesis (increasing DO). Anecdotally I have started running two skimmers. One is set to skim whilst the other is primarily set to just aerate. Not only has my ph gone up but also my DO has too! Hint. Don't run two skimmers to skim as there may not be enough organics and you'll simply under skim on both skimmers increasing your nitrates and causing a micro bubble snow storm in your tank. Another impact is that corals grown in higher DO levels (typically found in frag systems) on the whole have higher health (from a DO perspective) and better colouration. The interesting thing is that even if your nitrate and phospate are low, when you transplant that coral in a DO hypoxia tank it will stress out which could lead to discolouration. Another reason to have a good DO producing system. There is much I haven't gotten into, simply because I dont understand it! Hahaha. Such as oxygen super saturation and disequilbriums. But I do hope that this has shed some light on what is an interesting yet under tested parameter. You may not have an DO meter. But simply thinking about improved sources of DO in your tank will be a good start. Anyways hope this helps. Happy reefing. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Even with a Fowlr setup you are still going to need to control your nitrates. As such yes a skimmer is recommended. The size would depend on your stocking level plus what other filtration you plan on running. If you have a roller filter, running macro algea (refugium, MAR, or ATS) and a skimmer then you will probably be okay with a smaller skimmer. Anything less with regard to filtration and the larger skimmer will be needed. that said a slightly smaller skimmer is better then a larger skimmer. RODI is recommended. The water in Singapore is actually truly fantastic quality, but still your best bet is to run RODI as there are many heavy metals and various other pollutants you would want to remove and that can build up in a system over time. A three stage is a little light, and maybe a four stage will be better, however as long as you are getting zero TDS or as close as possible then you are good to go. (Note Whilst 2or 3 tds is acceptable, it's got to make you wonder what is that 2 made from? Haha). Water changes: So a lot of people have two 60L drums one for rodi and another for salt water. Although it's perfectly acceptable to have a single drum, after all in an emergency its salt water you need and not rodi. if you plan on doing many water changes then you can get away with a smaller drum or mixing tank. Do note you will need RODi to top up your evaporated water with an ATO. Good luck. Hope it helps. Tell us more about your plans and system. There are many people on the forum how are happy to help. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

(Continuing the build series...) Keeping it all very chill. I think one of the questions I have answered most on this forum is 'do I need a chiller?' In trying to remain positive and not add too much expense I typically advise that it's not absolutely necessary to have a chiller and there are other ways to get by. But in all honesty the truth is that you really need one. As we live on the equator unless your ambient room temperature is 27 you need one. I also have learnt that a chiller is something that you should never undersize. A poor undersized chiller will be on literally all the time generating more and more heat as it is fights valiantly yet unsuccessfully to keep your display cool. So in having a modest 500L system I went with the Healia HS-66a which is rated upto 800L. The chiller is placed outside of the house on a small balcony. If possible this is a good idea as all the heat the chiller generates is dispensed outside. The chiller comes on every three/four hours during the daytime and then only for no more then 20mins. (And note this is to chill a tank which sits in a room which has literally no AC). The point is the thermal mass of the water stays relatively constant and so it doesn't need much to nudge it in the right direction. I plumbed the chiller in such a way that my little 40L salt water mixing barrel/ATO can also use the same chiller. I simply turn the two (blue) valves which switches the tank input (to the chiller) and output (from the chiller) OFF, and then I open the two corresponding (red) valves that connect the mixing barrel to the chiller and switch on the pump in the barrel. This allows me to chill the water prior to mixing in the salt. (Tip: It is best to mix salt at cooler temps unless you want a dirty mix as the chemicals can perciperate). I ask ALEXA to set a reminder for 30 mins and also have an inkbird controller that sounds an alarm if the Main Display water temp gets too high, incase I forget to switch back to allow the tank to chill. Within the barrel there is a 'strong' (4m head pressure) 4000L/hr pump inside (I picked up second hand for just $8). Within the barrel there is a T plumbed off the pump, one side goes to the chiller and the other acts as a closed loop within the barrel, circulating the barrels contents. On this leg of the plumbing there is another ball valve that effectively creates additional head pressure as needed, and in doing so forces more of the the water into the chiller. This comes super handy when mixing up salt. When preparing for a water change I chill the water (typically of an evening) down to 25 and throw in a set weight of salt to get the salinity to 1.026. I leave this to mix over night and chill it once again in the morning and double check the salinity. For water changes I simply drain 40L from the main system and then orientate the valves so that the input to the chiller from my barrel is open, along with the output from the chiller to the main display. All other valves are closed. This basically pumps the water from the mixing barrel through the chiller and into my main display. Once the barrel is empty, it gets a quick clean and refilled with RODI as it serves as my ATO reservoir during the rest of the week. For major maintenance I disconnect the chiller from the tank and run RODI with Vinegar OR citric acid through the chiller via the mixing barrel and pump. You'll be amazed how dirty things can get in the chiller. Once done I drain everything in the barrel and rinse the chiller through with a small amount of rodi before reconnecting. I am planning in the near future to get the GHL system to control automatic water changes. Whilst I don't think I need to do too many water changes overall, i still intend to have a regular water change even if it's just amounts to 20% a month after all water changes typically solve 80% of your reefing problems. So I do intend to keep them going all be it 'little and often'. The latest GHL firmwear comes with a some auto water change options that I need to explore ... no doubt this will make for a new future project! Until then hope this helps and happy reefing! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

By macroalgea I am referring to chaeto or in a broader sense the green hair algae you get in an ATS (as applicable). As said it depends on the dose you intend to give. A small maintence dose at just once a week should allow you to keep your refugium/algae reactor/ats running. However anything more aggressive and the good macroalgea (chaeto etc) can stop growing or worse crash. As you dose vibrant the algae in tank will weaken and disappear overtime. So take it slow. If you dose too much too soon then the algae can 'disolve' which could be a bad thing as it will release the nutrients it stored back into the water. Go slow. What were your intentions / what was the problem you were looking to solve by using vibrant? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Agree. Macroalgea most likely will stop growing (even die off) with vibrant (depending on dose strength). Also be careful about giving enough time between when you stop dosing vibrant and starting up your macroalgea regiment. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

The water level in the overflow is different to that of the main display. By placing the emergency above the return and above the weir you will effectively require the overflow box to completely fill up, dumping all it's waste back into the main display before the emergency is activated. In addition running a single main return means any partial reduction in drainage on the main drain will reduce your sump water level causing your ATO to go off prematurely impacting salinity. Eventually you will have to reduce the return volume to equalise, reducing your overall tank turnover (reducing your filtration capability). There are many options and combinatioms, and it depends on the level of risk and noise you want to accept. Check out the this brief explanation of overflow systmes to help you. https://blog.marinedepot.com/education-center/charts-diagrams/durso-herbie-bean-animal-overflow With a two pipe set up you can go Herbie method (but this tends to be noisy). Alternatively a modified durso on the taller drain (when I say taller, just an inch or two above your main drain is plenty tall enough). On the main drain you can operate a durso on a full siphon (I.e. no air hole needed) controlled with a gate valve (not a ball valve!). Whilst this means you don't have an emergency drain per se, the chances of both drains clogging is really low. (And there are other ways to reduce this risk too). I would also recommend using two active drainage lines as it appears from your photo that the return and drainage lines are of same diameter(?) necessitating more drainage. How about placing the Gyre on the side wall of the overflow (?). But cords are annoying agreed. That is why someone invented the mp40 haha. They are amazing, although costly. Hmmm maybe vinyl isn't so bad after all. Hahaha. So far it is looking like a great start. Keep up the good work. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Nice. The thought of drilling a tank is way more scary then doing it... but still is a nice job! The emergency drain looks a little high, would place below the return. I do like that you haven't placed vinyl backing to the sides of the overflow box. A couple of gyre's (mounted vertically) or mp40's would look nice! Great job so far. Keep the posts coming. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

So hopefully the water in your QT is the 'same' as your main display (with exception of meds). So that the fish have been getting used to you main display water for sometime. If this is the case then you don't need to spend too much time acclimatise them, reducing stress. When ready go transfer I use a secondary 'bath' so basically I don't place them directly from the QT into the main display. Sometimes this is RODI water in the form of a fresh water dip. But if the fish is a little intolerant of this (I find wrasse hate it) then I would just use a dip. Transfer into an acrylic box in the tank, allowing fish to get accustomed to their new tank mate(s) for a day. When time to release I feed my main display a tiny bit more so the fish are well fed and then I do the final transfer in the evening so that there is less aggression. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Using a roller filter can indeed significantly reduce the waste organics due to the finer filter used. Itcertainly does a better job of lifting the organics out of the water. From my own experience I had to reduce the size of my skimmer as the larger skimmer I originally had (which was oversized for the tank) seriously struggled to produce anything meaningful except micro bubbles as there simply wasn't enough organics to support it. Now I have a skimmer that is rated exactly for the tank size I am able to pull out some nice skimmate. Obviously there are many factors at play, bio load, other filtration etc. But it doesn't surprise me that a roller filter would partially shut down your skimmer. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app