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Posts posted by Indeco
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That great, this solution is much better than copper for treating ich in QT.Yup. Should be ich. As for parameters, no swing in them. I am using quite a low dosage.
not keen on doing bath as once i tried FW dip and it quite of stressed up the fish quite a fair bit.
Going forward, I think I am gonna use isolation boxes when introducing new fishes to the maintank to reduce stress for the inhabitants
Wait for your further update bro! -
Thx for the sharing bro, just to confirm the white spot is ich and not velvet?
I do understand H2O2 bath can cure velvet effectively.
Any parameters swing you noticed? E.g PH -
All other items are sold, left mini blasto.
Selling at $45 -
1) Mini blasto = $70
2) Hammer = $20 (Reserved)
3) Acan set = $45 (Reserved)
4) Blasto = $30
5) Candy Cane = $25 (Sold)
7) Alveopora = $45 (Sold)
Take both 1 & 4 at $85, if can collect by tomorrow can offer at $80. -
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Normally fish don't eat is due to stress or illness.
In the future, try to hatch live brine shrimp or buy live mysis from Oceania reef to entice the feeding.
Live food trick haven't failed so far unless the fish is sick. -
sry for the lost bro, yap brook kill damn fast.The moment i caught it on and add air bubbles after awhile died alr
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Erm bro, this will work for mild ich and bacteria infection. Most of the bacteria and parasites, u still need to treat the fish properly.Goodluck with the treatment, try soaking food w selcon and or garlic. It does help to boost immune system.. so long as fish is eating well he maybe able to fight it off
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Don't use copper it don't help. If can u go FNM buy Ruby reef rally and bath it else u can do fresh water dip for 3min make sure PH match.Yes definitely brookynella @jobnnie and @indenco have caught it out and try copper treatment
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After that put in a QT tank and dose seachem Metroplex. Also mix it with food and feed it.
You need to act fast, brook normally kill in 1 or 2 days. -
If you see mucus around the body mean is brook and u need to act fast.
If not, should be bad bacteria infection. -
Hi, welcome to the reefing world.
1) For the tank size limitation, I think is better to check with your local authority as different country got different law.
2) My suggestion is start with small and docile fish first and slowly increase. You fish list mostly will change after you start to know more about this hobby.
3) Angel and Butterfly mostly is not reef safe so you need to check before you purchase.
4) For Tangs, if you want to add similar species it will be better to add them all together instead of one by one. E.g. purple, yellow, gem tang should be add together for higher chance of success.
5) Over here, most of us don't use heater. we use chiller only.
6) I will recommend you to setup quarantine tank for your fish and coral if possible.
7) Check out 静风听海 at taobao. -
Why not get 1 or 2 frag to try out then u will know already. Parameters is one of the criteria, flow and lighting also play a big part.
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Thx all will check out!
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Welcome, feel free to ask around if u have further question.Good piece of information for me. Appreciate the time to write this.
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QT is a good practise that allow u to walk far and smoother in this hobby. -
Thanks for tip Indeco! Leads me rethink of QT tank. In that case, I’ll take this as spare tank and convert it into QT when needed. So in QT setup, how to manage fishes NO3 for 2weeks if there no cheato n with lesser media? Is it by daily water change?
Is the treatment setup for new fish entry to main system similar to treating sick fish?
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For QT tank, normally I don't manage NO3. Just make sure the tank is cycled without ammonia spike will do. Water Change is mainly the nutrient export for QT.
My idea is don't keep fish that QT tank can't hold else will required more water change which will make it hard to maintain the treatment.
Ideally if you can treat your fish for those typical parasites like Ich, fluke, brook, bacteria infection before adding into you main tank it will be good.
For sick fish, you just need to target treat it based on the issue you found. Tank setup is the same as QT tank.
You can use your current setup for QT coral/invertebrates too, just need to get a better lighting. QT for coral is not very common but I feel is also very important. -
If u want to use it for QT, th best is u remove chaeto, UV and try not to have too much media.
Chaeto mostly will die due to medication, UV suppress the parasites and bacteria so might give u a false alarm that the fish is ok and u will stop treatment. Some medication will be leech by the media and make the dosage hard to maintain.
Light is optional for fish but I normal don't on it for long until they become stable.
U may want to consider a ATO and also increase oxygen exchange.-
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The standard dosing steps are 1st dose -> wait 3 to 5 days -> run carbon or 30% water change -> 2nd dose -> wait 3 to 5 days -> run carbon and water change
Think to take note
- Skimmer must be turn off, if u want to on it then make sure remove the skimmer cup and let it overflow
- Make sure surface tension is good for oxygen exchange
- Wrasse is quite sensitive to medication, so the above steps don't apply to it
- do not mix medication or add dechlorinator
For QT tank treatment, same steps apply. -
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Using of Hydrogen Peroxide
in Disease treatment/parasite/pest control
Posted
One more thing to highlight, if fish got wound or cut then wait for it to recover before using H2O2 is better.