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Otaku Reefer

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Otaku Reefer last won the day on May 16

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  1. Hi bro, can share why K1 not suitable for reef tank? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  2. Oh its form of nitrate dosing, my main form of export is scrubber and fuge so seems to remove more nitrates compared to phosphate, so hopefully dose this can balance out and eventually keep phosphate low without GFO.
  3. Quick update Just received my neo nitro and MB7. Big bottle hopefully can last a while. New train of thought on the ULNS system, instead of ULNS,i wan go towards ULPS (Ultra low Phosphate system). Seems like having slightly higher nitrates (5-10ppm) and lower phosphate (0.03-0.05) corals seems happier compared to ultra low nitrates ultra low phosphate. Hoping to dose nitrates to keep nitrates up and phosphate low, meantime adding MB7 to help with the process. Trying my hands on NPS, whats a mix reef without NPS [emoji23] Sun coral seems to be the easier NPS, just feed it pellets and scallops every 3-4 days. Hopefully can keep it alive. Keeping in the shaded part of my tank to fill the space [emoji28] This weekend saw the introduction of blackstorm to my tank, was keeping my finger crossed as my display has already a established wild false percula pair. Didnt see any aggression(hope dun jinx myself [emoji23]), actually my establish pair seems afraid of the new panda. Probably first time seeing freaks of nature and they thought is new species [emoji38]. Keeping the distance Minding their own business Some zoas pic to brighten the rainy day Thanks for reading, happy reefing! [emoji51] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  4. Probably due to feeding, last time i keep feeding every 3 days and keep splitting. now i cut back to once per week and stop splitting. If u stop feeding and still keep splitting den probably stress or other underlying issues. Did u check ur phosphate? Reef roids tend to increase ur phosphates. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  5. Thank you bro, was actually quite surprise myself as this was their first clutch and my own inexperience in raising fries. Although lost some along the way, can say its an interesting and enjoyable journey [emoji23] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  6. Thank you for the kind words bro, just sharing the info/tips so others may benefit as well. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  7. Post hatch day 64 update Change to bigger box to allow for more growth, this isobox design quite good, with many holes for gas exchange and prevent detritus accumulation in the box. Got it from supreme. Prepping the food. Using TDO chromaboost, if u can buy the smallest size, but do take note smallest size mostly expired in LFS as nobody buys them. Do check the expiry date b4 purchase. Alternatively like me u can mesh it up to fine powder. Feeding time i use a coral feeder to feed so i can control the amount of food. “Pellet trained” hehe [emoji12] Size comparison Day 1, tiny winie fishies Day64, grown bigger liaoz, i only feed once a day sometime lazy, once every two days. [emoji23] Interesting and fun side to the hobby! More reefers shld try this out, they are easy to breed and care for, just need a little bit of TLC. Stay safe and happy reefing! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  8. Happy Father’s day to all reefers! Update of the tank Preparing the ultimate coral food Mix up all the big brand food and target feed hehe 1. Red sea AB+ 2. FM min S 3. Reef roids 4. Goniopower 5. Brightwell coral amino Trying this regime for a few weeks, scoly mouth swollen after makan, feeding response is good Somehow feel my symphillia wilsoni (not 100% sure ID) color better and more fluffy flesh since i feed, maybe my imagination haha Water change day, switch to “high tech gear” from dearest shop TB to do water change, can drain until very little water, last time gong gong go scoop by scoop waste time and water drip everywhere..this i tink reverse engr from sicce zero pump..damn ex lah, for water change not worth… Baking time! its weird i never bake any cake b4 but go bake for reef tank lol…the things reefer do for the tank [emoji23] Following randy recipe 160g to 1 liter RODI and bake for 1 hr, trusted arm and hammer brand, really save a lot $$ for me as my tank makan alk fast. able to raise PH to 8.2, in future consider put kalkwasser to target holy grail of pH 8.3. Essentially 2 part dosing but baking drive the CO2 out of the bicarbonate to become carbonate. Remember to seal the left over in ziplock bag others will absorb moisture. Thanks for reading and happy reefing! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  9. Received a few pms from kind bros asking if the banggai fries for sale, they currently not for sale yet as still small, i will sell them when they bigger and more stable. Thanks! [emoji23] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  10. looks like this? u can google hydroids Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  11. Quick update Lost 4 of the banggai fries due to rookie mistake, was doing a transfer of the isolation box to do cleaning and i left them out of water for too long, was only about 10-20s, when put them back in water some fries immediately belly up and cant balance. GG after awhile, feed the dead fish to anemone, circle of life and nothing is wasted. Lesson learn as baby fries are too sensitive to leave out of water..rest of fries doing ok and grown bigger, now feeding to TDO readily, hope can continue. Wild Adult banggai ignore prepared food so really must train from young [emoji23] Going back to TLF Acropower to steady daily dose, can feel the colors better and corals more vibrant. Thanks for reading. Happy reefing! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  12. Nice tank, not sure if u got try before, can put the skimmer on a stand (diy egg crate or bio media blocks) to raise the skimmer and the overflow should significantly reduced. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  13. Ur coral load is low so shld not eat so much alk/ca. i also using 2 part, about 20ml/day alk 8ml/Ca. I would check the following 1. Check ur dosing pump if calibrated properly 2. Check ur measurement, i assume its auto measured by Trident? Probably get a hanna alk checker to verify 3. Are u dosing alk and ca together? they shld be spaced apart 10 mins. If dose together means Alk and Ca precipitated to cal carbonate, means got dose = no dose. 4. i dose based on consumption and not equal parts, the goal is maintain consistency of alk and ca. maybe u try split the dosing to finetune to the correct spot. 5. Lastly, i would switch brand of supplements to check ( but not likely is the issue) You can watch this video from BRS. Seems to describe ur problem Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  14. Oh missed this important point, its not safe to intro new fish as the parasites will continue to feed on other fish and reproduce. Unless the tang that died off is the only fish in tank, den good news for u, u just need to leave the tank fishless for 76 days and ich will die off without a host. For me i tried 1 month fishless and its ok. But 76 days is probably a safer bet. Hope it helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  15. sorry for your loss bro, water change not likely can help for parasites issues, unless ur tank has alot ammonia and its causing more stress to the fish. 1st thing to do is to correctly diagnose it is ich or other parasites like velvet before u can start treatment. You can google for pics to differentiate. There are few “proven” methods on the google u can look out for. 2nd question is whether your tank is reef or Fowler. Some common methods i can think of which help combat or eliminate ich 1. Copper 2. Tank transfer method 3. Hypo-salinity 4. polyplab medic 5. UV 6. Enrich food 7. other medications like formalin. If your tank is reef tank, method 1,3,7 does not apply as u cannot do that to reef tank as will kill corals and inverts. You will probably need a dedicated QT tank to administer treatment. My own experience is using QT tank and administer copper to treat and it does works. But dosage need to be careful and QT tank water quality can degrade fast if not cycled properly. For TTM (tank transfer method) also need 2 tanks to do constant transfer of fish to break the lifecycle of ich. If your tank is reef tank and u dont have QT, u can try method 4,5,6. method 4 is using H2O2 (i tink) to kill the free floating ich parasites. alot local reefers had used and reported success but i didnt use before so cant comment too much. Method 5 also will work but u need spend $$ and get a good sized UV. For UV to work need to have precise flow rate vs wattage so u can kill the parasites effectively. But this can be costly as large UV is EX. The reason why u need large UV is u need higher contact time for UV to kill the parasites at a decent flow rate. u can opt for low flow rate but it wont be effective as u need to turn over the tank volume fast to kill the ich. Method 6 is easy, just feed more nutritious food like frozen mysis and enrich with selcon, u can add garlic to entice fish also. Some say garlic works but i tried it doesnt work for ich, at most is make the fish appetite better bah. With fish eating and less stress the natural slime coat will be better and more resistant to ich. This is a huge topic by itself, u can do more reading up. I am by no means expert and above is just based on my own readings and learnings and maybe not 100% correct also so other seniors reefers can chime in. Hope got help u. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
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