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PulposTriste

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Everything posted by PulposTriste

  1. Any questions about set up just pm me, no need scared, I want you to know what you're buying haha. On a side note, if any reefers looking for mermaid cup macro, pm me also, there is still a few survivors
  2. Hi, I'm decomming my old custom made tank due to personal commitments. It's currently in a *extreme* state of neglect (algae overgrown). Used to be mixed reef/macro tank. Dimensions: 3x2x2 It's custom made by CRA with front and side crystal glass, overall condition is good, just needs cleaning up/water change and maybe replace the rusty hinges (they work perfectly fine, though), otherwise ready to go, misc corals still alive inside but not very happy because of neglect haha. No chiller as I keep it inside Aircon room. All equipment functional normally (of course, in a state of neglect, need cleaning haha) Key Equipment includes: 2x Noopsyche K7 pro II + controller 2x Maxspect Gyre Wavemaker + controller Bubble Magus Curve 3 Elite Nyos Torq 2.0 2x Sicce Syncra pumps Flipper magnet Tunze ATO Media Cups Jebao doser (pretty much barely used, with spare roller) Overkill amounts of mature siphorax, if you plan to make a high bioload 70gal fowlr no need to buy more media, just need to give a rinse. Trying to sell as one set if possible to quick clear, spent about just under 10k for equipment and everything. Looking to clear it for 4-5k. But honestly very negotiable, just pm me to ask.
  3. Hi, I'm decomming this Custom 3 feet front and side crystal-glass system made by CRA as I need to make room. Used to be a Mixed reef-Macroalgae tank. Most of the inhabitants have been moved out/sold, with some remaining for the time being. Some corals will also come with the tank as its stuck to the rock work. Complete and mature system, pretty much ready to go. Just need to clean up the overgrown algae and macro as I kinda neglected it for the few months I took to move the livestock out. But otherwise the remaining SPS inside still healthy and growing. No chiller as I keep it inside Aircon room. Key Equipment includes: 2x Noopsyche K7 pro II + controller 2x Maxspect Gyre Wavemaker + controller Bubble Magus Curve 3 Elite Nyos Torq 2.0 2x Sicce Syncra pumps Flipper magnet Tunze ATO Media Cups Jebao doser (pretty much barely used, with spare roller) Also have lots and lots of siporax, honestly overkill, if you're looking to buy mature media can DM me for a 2L bag. If you're interested or have questions, feel free to DM me, the total system price was around 10k excluding lifestock. I'm willing to negotiate anything between 5-6k, or honestly any reasonable offer you can make.
  4. The stock fluval light a is bit too weak, it's designed for Softies/LPS. It could work, but i recommend replacing/supplementing. Here's a very good example: https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/381724-fluval-evo-135-crazy-sps-growth-after-lighting-upgrade/#comment-5490433 Unfortunately the Truelumen LEDs appear to have been discontinued but im sure there are other LED strips available on the market. Just make sure they can fit under the hood. And if all else fails, you can always DIY very simple LED strips, all you need to know is basic electronics. I can help you make one if you interested haha. As for gas exchange, since you already have a wavemaker, just point your return nozzle higher for more surface agitation. Ofc like JiaEn said, poor ventilation can affect the system too. Protein skimmer, I still think it's absolutely unnecessary ($80 for the Fluval PS2), might as well get an wood airstone and put it into the sump haha. That being said, my Pico 5 Gallon has about the same pH reading (if not lower) as yours. I keep my BTA and SPS inside just fine.
  5. Bro haha, anemones need a very mature/established tank one, they sibei sensitive. Not to say undoable (done it before, not easy) but keep a close eye on it and feed it regularly. Lighting may also be an issue if youre using the stock fluval light, but ofc continue to monitor. Biggest threat I can see now is your AI Nero, those things are mini blenders haha. You should try to get something to guard the intake. Try wrapping it with something like this. Just in case your anemone decide to go on a trip. Also day/night pH swings are normal. You can try to stabilise it with borate buffers like Aquavitro eight.four. Another possibility is low magnesium, test it out and let us know.
  6. Always after, ugly phase means the system is not balanced. Let everything settle first, then test for the essential chemicals.
  7. I know some people use Seachem Flourish Nitrogen, it's basically just pure concentrated nitrate (NO3) and ammonium (NH4⁺). Ammonium is just ionised ammonia (NH3), pretty much non-toxic to fishes unless youre actually trying to kill your fishes haha. It'll be processed by nitrifying bacteria into more nitrate just like normal ammonia. if you know anyone that sells pure Potassium Nitrate (KNO3), that would work better if not way cheaper. Since Flourish Nitrogen is Potassium Nitrate and Urea based. That being said, amino acids could work too, many brands on the market, I'm sure some bros can recommend you the good ones.
  8. Unfortunately, pretty much all angel fishes are not reef safe. Even the popular Pygmy/Dwarf Angels (Centropyge) are "reef safe" with caution. However, there are numerous success stories with Coral Beauty Angel (Centropyge bispinosa) Of course, it's all dependant on the temperament of the fish.
  9. Actually, considering that you first found them when the lights are off, I suspect it's something else. Do you have Cerith snails in the tank? If you have, I think it may be Cerith eggs, they look similar but Ive never see them move so much before. Maybe your tank has very high flow haha
  10. If I'm not mistaken, you're using a 10 gallon tank now right? For tanks 10 Gal and below, no need to get skimmer IMO. Your weekly water change is already at least like 50% already, that alone will pull more nutrients from the water then your tiny skimmer. (Assuming you use the standard large 20l plastic pail) Just don't overstock (if you want also can, but you get ready change water every 3 days like haha, macam discus tank at this point) You want try? Also can, but cheap Chinese venturi skimmers normally have microbubble one, some people will think it's irritating. Also can try the limewood diffuser (airstone) skimmer, they work well for small tanks. Saw a bunch of Japanese nanos using them.
  11. I mean, I can't think of another way haha. You can always have someone who has experience to do it for you. Maybe Vincent from AA? Also as ridiculous as this sounds, I feel like a classic tank top sump would be a good choice. Obviously not the prettiest, but can save you lots of headache. Only need one pump and let it overflow into your display. Something like this maybe? I'm sure with some creative touch, you can make it look perfect. Plus you don't have to destructively modify your display tank too.
  12. Pretty much haha Bubble Magus is the default cheap and reliable one IMO. Deltec is the classic, also very good. Nyos is just overpriced, cool design though. Also got reef octopus, tunze, and some other brands. Different people will say different things one, their mileage may vary after all. I think what's more important is to get it from a reputable seller that will actually help you if the skimmer runs into issues. You can get the best skimmer, but quality control can occasionally miss a faulty unit. When that happens, I'm sure you want a seller that actually helps you out instead of leaving you in the cold.
  13. I agree with darrance, if you really want to get into this hobby, you're gonna save quite a bit of money in the long run if you get a proper/bigger chiller. If you are just trying out, a fan/cheap shrimp nano chiller would be far more friendly on the wallet. Those nano chillers are normally thermoelectric, not a lot of moving parts for it to really break, just make sure to get from a good seller. Without chiller or fan also can, just keep your tank in a cool shaded area, and don't let temp spike above 28°C. I've kept a 10 Gal without chiller for a long time without much issue (keeping mainly soft coral and easy LPS/SPS). But ofc if you plan to keep anemone and other sensitive SPS, chiller is strongly recommended. Hailea is a good, reliable and cheap brand, lots of users in SG. As darrance had said, try to get the newer HK model if space/budget permits as its much quieter/efficient.
  14. I don't see the point in dosing nano tanks under 10g. If your salt mix is good, regular weekly water changes are more then enough to replenish the major and trace elements. If you do want to dose, I recommend you save your money and get a pipette, far cheaper and you can dose after a water change. As for chiller, Maybe one of those Chinese mini chillers that shrimp keepers use. Got many models, but can look something like this.
  15. Do you have any LPS or Rhodactis (hairy mushroom)? Looks like mesenterial filaments. But imo it could be just detritus, either that or nothing too major. I'm sure it'll disappear soon
  16. If it's actually the Arabian cowrie, you may have lucked out on the individual. Very good and efficient algae grazers, may even eat bryopsis haha. Problem is they may get a taste for polyps, and it'll be downhill from there. However I would recommend that you continue monitoring it to see if it is actually disturbing the GSP, chances are the cowrie is just eating the algae on the plug. If in the unfortunate event that you do see signs of it getting eaten, then you remove it from the display. Here's someone who had the same experience as you. https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/361002-arabian-cowrie-mauritia-arabica-eating-my-gsp/ If you do want to give it up, please find it a better home and not dump it into the sea or something, even if it's native around here. The animal also happens to be on the Singapore Red List of threatened animals, so I hope you'll get it a proper home. Sidenote, if you do have a problem with GSP, these guys can keep them in check, maybe some reefer with GSP problem can take him haha.
  17. From my experience, stress/change in environment causes them to split, just like BTAs. And also, I've accidentally shredded one of my rhodactis one day when I tried to cut the rock, splitted it into 3 pieces. I've also torn some of them off frag-racks they got stuck to. Pretty much all of them grew back, quite hard to kill haha.
  18. Agreed, flooded my room a few times because of blockage in the pipes/loss of siphon from power outage. Now I know always to have emergency drain and keep the HOB overflow constantly primed. If you really want to have one and keep it small, go for Herbie (don't forget the emergency pipe), dursos can be quite noisy in my experience, and bean animal is too big. I've kept a mixed reef frag tank with large HOB filters haha, it's more important to have wavemaker flow imo.
  19. Looks like bacterial bloom bro, they sometimes make slime that will catch debris. I'm sure with some good husbandry, they'll be gone
  20. It's fine, it's most likely a bristleworm (polychaete). Fireworks are much more colourful in my experience. Great scavengers and detritivore, don't go touch with bare hand though, the spines can hurt. I guess they can be bad if you like looking at your reef tank at night and also don't like worms haha, they can get quite big (most of mine hide in rocks/in sump)
  21. Agree with the bro above, the ugly phase is one all must go through. You are, at the end of the day, creating a closed ecosystem. The only reason something is wrong (algae/Dino/cyano blooms) is because the delicate balance has been disrupted. Personally I would not attempt to fix any form of blooms with chemicals. I've met lots of different forms of pest algae including the rare ones (chrysophytes, pink cotton, various wild hitchhikers like padina, sargassum, etc) None of them did I ever have to resort to chemical means (Sole exception is bryopsis, I pray you never need to experience this haha) Even stuff like dino and cyano can be beaten by letting other algae outcompete them, like hair algae for example. Then after, use snails or sea hares to control the gha. You must not forget a healthy thriving system will always have algae, the reason they get out of control (and become what we call "pests") is pretty much always because the balance is disrupted. Finally, be cautious when adding food/nutrients, because whatever goes in, much come out. Unless you want to feed the algae It's gonna be a bumpy ride but it's part of the experience, don't get discouraged yeah. And do make a thread so we can see your progress + help you out
  22. Hi, if you have any please let me know, can't find any stock in any LFS. If you happen to know which LFS have stock, that would work too, thanks!
  23. Ph is fine for now, it gets important once you put corals and lifestock in. You can try to increase the amount of food and add more bacteria (it's ok to overdose most bacteria product, just don't over do it lol) But really you just have to wait it out. Patience bro. Despite what people say, nitrate is not that big of an issue If anything it's bad if your tank is too clean, a bit of nitrate is what your coral needs for food. What you really want to keep close to zero is phosphate/silicate. Use Granular Ferric Oxide (GFO) to keep the levels low. Try to avoid any aluminium based phosphate removers, they have a whitish appearance. As for cheato, in my opinion, not necessary for a tank that size. If you really want you can try macroalgae of the genus caulerpa. Those imo are more effective them cheato and can grow in your display, but depends on your aesthetic.
  24. Judging by your history, your tank's appearance and the fact that you're using a canister filter, I think it'll be very very wise to check your parameters again. Could be polyp bailout, which only happens when you really piss them off, might wanna up the water changes and reduce feeding/photoperiod. Also clean the canister, it's a nitrate factory. Best if you replace it imo.
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