XPeriment 626

Sump pic

Another pic

Pic of tank now

For sale: 12mm tank - 59"x22"x28" H 8mm sump - 47"x18"x20" H 1.5 yrs old. Reason for sale: home renovations, need to shut down tank. Will include an old (2yrs) Pac Coo 1/2 HP chiller for free. Doesn't work very well, has trouble cooling below 27 deg. If using for FOWLR should be ok. Maintenance could solve the problem, but too lazy to do it now as tank is decommissioned. Total package: $200. Location: Serangoon Gardens area Pls arrange your own transport to collect. Interested pls PM me or SMS - 97901711. Picture of tank when it was running:

Upz for your sales! Very pleasant chat we had. Haven't tested the tunze in my tank yet, I'm sure it will be fine.

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Wah! 30 feet sump! From Underwater World?

chill dude. "I have an old bath tub for sale" is just an expression. I don't really have an old bath tub for sale and even if I did I wouldn't sell it for keeping fish. Lighten up. Nobody's attacking you personally.

don't be fooled by the slick marketing. That's all it is. The short version of why the tank doesn't work for marine is that it emphasizes NO MAINTENANCE EXCEPT WATER TOP UP. That is total bollocks. If you believe that, I have an old bath tub for sale to you. I used to own a tank and the fish kept dying. Salesperson kept giving me crap like "fish came with cyanide poisoning" etc etc. Finally sick of their nonsense, I went to change the tank and now my fish and corals are living happily. The key problems with an Atlantis tank: (1) No proper waste removal mechanism. There is no provision for skimmers, which are generally held to be the single most important piece of equipment for marine tanks. The Atlantis tanks only have filter wool and coral chips, which build up nitrate in the tanks and eventually lead to fatality for livestock. However, BY THE TIME IT HAPPENS, you would have had the tank for a few weeks, and the Atlantis guy can then say that it is not their fault, and blame you for the problem. (2) No chiller or temperature control mechanism. Unless you intend to keep fish only (and hardy ones like damsels and chromis), your livestock will suffer inside an Atlantis tank which will generally be around 29-31 deg because of Singapore room temperatures. Corals will not survive at such temperatures. (3) Insufficient lighting. Atlantis generally gives rubbish PL lighting, mine came with 1xwhite PL and 1xblue (not actinic) PL. This is nonsense for keeping corals. You will probably have more luck trying to grow plants using your handphone light than growing corals with those rip-off light fixtures. (4) Insufficient flow. The tiny return pump for Atlantis tanks hardly generate any flow in the tank. Detritus remains firmly stuck to the bottom and there are many dead spot areas in the tank that contribute to algae growth and coral death. (5) Most importantly, NON-EXISTENT AFTER SALES SERVICE. When your fish die, just try to contact Atlantis. You will get nothing but excuses.

Most salt will have residue if you simply stir it in a pail of room temperature tap water. It is best if you are able to leave the salt water to stand overnight with a small pump/wavemaker in the pail to ensure the salt particles are all fully dissolved. This is because salt particles if introduced undissolved into the tank can sting your fish and livestock. As for buying seawater or making salt, the latter is of course more work and more expensive. However, please bear in mind that Singapore sea water isn't very clean, if you see how many container ships and oil tankers are berthed offshore. Think carefully if you want to introduce that kind of water into your tank.

The only thing I can think of is that the return from the chiller will be very cold water in a large volume, which could cause your tank temperature to drop very rapidly and may not be good if it happens all the time. A more gradual reduction of temperature is better. Another possible issue would be that your power bill will be excessively high as the chiller takes a lot of power during startup ("kick in"). Although it may run for a short amount of time each time it turns on, you will get a lot of power used every time it kicks in, which will still happen fairly frequently due to Singapore room temperature being generally higher than marine tank temperatures.

I used to own one of their tanks. Beware of sales promises that are lies.

do a search of all past posts with the name "Atlantis". read what has been said before and decide yourself if you're prepared to waste your money.

can you post a pic? thnx

don't think you should have the chiller intake and return from the same compartment in the sump. This could lead to the chiller getting false readings about your tank water temperature, hence shutting off and on prematurely. i suggest you move your intake to an earlier compartment, and put the return from the chiller close to your sump return pump back to the main tank. If all else fails, just call Aquamarin and ask them about it.

you know, you should just check out one of the sponsors like Aquamarin or BioOcean.

For a tank that size it might not be worth the investment to get a chiller, and if you do not want to do water top-up, then unfortunately your only real choice is fake corals. I say "unfortunately" because the joy in this hobby is to see live corals and fish, not strangely-coloured rubber imitations.

Boy you really are a rude person. This is not your exclusive country club, you're not paying membership fees or anything. If the founders/owners of the site want to run it a particular way, that's up to them, not for you to demand anything.

To clarify what does what: Algae uses nutrients in the tank to grow, specifically nitrate. The growth rate is fairly constant provided that sufficient nitrate is available. However, the presence of phosphate helps to increase the rate of growth of the algae, leading to algal blooms. You can think of nitrate as "food" and phosphate as "vitamin" which speeds growth. Sorb-4 or other supposed phosphate removers absorb the phosphate in the water. This helps to slow down algae growth. However, algae will still grow, although at a much reduced rate. Turbo snails can help to eat the algae that does grow. They do not directly eat phosphate. Using them to "reduce" phosphate does not work, as the amount of algae they eat is small compared to the amount that will grow with just a small phosphate problem. You should keep your water clean by being disciplined in not over-feeding, in changing water regularly and using phosphate removers. You may then decide whether or not to also have snails depending on the amount of resulting algae growth. If your water is well maintained, you generally will not need many snails. And yes, your snail may die if there is insufficient algae, which is why you need to monitor the algae growth and not simply buy snails to put into the tank.

This is nuisance algae by the way. Generally most fish won't even eat it.

I would highlight your pollution and water temperature as the two main problems. Might want to consider a chiller and also have better filtration/nutrient export. The sump will greatly help so you can connect other equipment to your tank.