kareen

1) Get a good salt mix (corallife etc) and do routine 10 to 20% partial water change every bi-weekly or montly. Take care of water parameter without hassle... 2) Keep fish load as little as possible. Fish tend to disturb the coral and hence spell some trouble... 3) Some wavemaker for circulation... key point, LPS do not need strong wave... If you can fulfill these simple steps, ur corals should be alright... Do not temper with additives for CA, MG, KH... very often the noobies tip the scale and cause disaster.... remember it is easy to push up the values and MUCH, MUCH harder to push down the value especially in ionic balance manner.... leave these to the salt mix manufacturer...

u know the concept of how iceprobe work? half of the material is hot while the other is cold.... What do u think?

From the algae scrubber thread, I believe your concept is not correct....

Hello.... Is the circled PVC pipe necessary for support? 'cos it will be difficult to hid that trunk unless it is hidden in the sandbed... However, I am no architect and view from the "beauty" point of view.... PS: be careful about the width of the bridge... may be difficult to hide in three way view tank.... If I were you, I will likely make it into a tall tower form and use liverock to hide the pillar... My reasoning is that it is difficult to stack a stable rock work after certain height.... somehow, the height get to sink after sometimes....

Well, I don't know whether it work or not but at least I know for sure it will not end up the way u say 'cos the bucket can be removed without disturbing the display tank. I do have intention to get it done some time later when I'm more free.... at the meantime, hope to hear more voices....

" beside my Bed " => not really a good idea when equipment start piling up especially the unsighty, smelly skimmer output. Also, deeper tank require high power lighting ==> heat generated either from light or chiller... Seriously, a bad location.

That's the method I am doing now. I have tried AZ NO3 too with similar effect as using sugar method BTW, this is a picture of the dsb I have in mind..... I wonder anyone tried it before...

BTW, sugar is carbon as well....

Adding a little of sugar to your tank will lower the nitrate.... I have done that and it works for that purpose.... however, I stopped that 'cos I remembered some corals do not respond well... I remembered the nitrate is dropping fast and at the same time, I notice my macro algae dieing... and so started removing them from refugium.... and then certain corals (can't remembered now) do not open well.... I have read that doing this over the long period, only 1 type of bacteria left dominating in tank... not a good thing. So, my conclusion is that this can be done on a short term basis to bring it to a lower level nitrate only... [a word of caution... this method may crash your tank when there is insufficient oxygen due to the rapid bacteria growth. Monitor closely when doing it] Adding plants... I feel is that somehow due to the amount of space given, it could not keep up with the level nitrate produced in our tank.... Maybe others have succeed but not for my case. I have been toying with an idea after reading about Ah lim posting here... My idea is to have a COVERED bucket of dsb placed in sump with probably 2 holes drilled at the side. This is to allow tank water to enter this container from the side. I think debris will have less chance of settling when water is entered from the side and at the same time, doing the lowing of the nitrate, passively for us. I think if there is any nitratification going on in the dsb bucket, nitrate will be reduced without any additional cost of running pumps... Will this work? Appreciate greatly inputs or experiences encountered by reefers...

hm... not so effectively for your case then.... BTW, did u covered the pail with lid that time u deploy this? PS: What is your current method of curing nitrate?

Thanks for the clarify.... Is it important to cover the pail with lid? Also, do u mind to tell me how much this has bring ur nitrate down.... Many thanks

"both inlet are level, above the RDSB." I thought inlet is at the side of pail while the outlet is at the pail cover.... Can u clarify on this? Thanks

Thanks for sharing.... I'm quite excited about this... the startup cost and running is low..... except how to make it more presentable looking....

somemore ideas...

yeah... I know but this is going to be cheap.... Here's a picture from one of the pages... Anyway, I'm still researching on the topics. Hope to hear more comments

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

I do have cheato, mangroove, etc... macro algae grow well too... My nitrate is high 'cos I have quite a bit of sunnies and very often when I'm busy, I'll simply flood my tank with coral food.... All corals in my tank are softies and LPS only. They look pretty okay to me and some are propagating in my tank even with nitrate at this level... I am reading the thread u provide.... Is there any quick tip or advise from you? 1) how u construct the DBS. Eg. sand grade and thickness. 2) determine the proper flowrate thru' it. maybe quote your case 3) Is the water pump into the lowest layer of DBS from inlet and the outlet pipe is like an opening to let the water out?

about 80ppm ...

u mean the remote DSB is capable of keeping the tank nitrate low? Any references of thread? Thanks BTW, any reefers with de-nitrator story....

The Sulfur Denitrator seems promising to reduce large amount of nitrate but I'm not too sure about the SO4 impact though....

Hi! What are the method deploy to keep nitrate low? [apart from the low feeding, water change and stronger skimmer...] I have been reading a little on this area and found DIY Sulfur Denitrator http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...mp;pagenumber=1 DIY canister-diy-denitrator http://www.indodragon.com/forum/f4/eheim-c...enitrator-3045/ Appreciate if any reefers who have the experiences and share the thoughts.... some photos which I saved from the above threads..

Thanks for enlightening... haha...

Hi.... you have choosen quite a difficult species of coral for fragging..... Sea fans are known to be difficult to strive well in our normal equip tank due to its non photosynthesis nature... something like the sunnies which require us to feed them but more difficult in sea fans case 'cos their "mouth" are fairly small and hence take plankton and zooplankton in micro sizes. Nevertheless, since you have fragged them, here are some recommendation... 1) place those frags in a high flow area in a dimly lighted area to prevent algae growth on their body. If possible, do not on light. 2) high frequency of dosing coral food are recommended in dripping sense.... Do some DIY of IV style drip system in your fragging tank to ensure long hour of food available to them will ensure your higher success rate. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress....

just put multiple of glass bottle to trap pest while recycling the tank is good enough.... cooking, drying the liverock kill all good or bad thing.... equal dead rock.

Thanks... what caught my eyes is a paragraph.... The invention is based on polymer-entrapment of a denitrifying combination of bacteria together with a suitable carbon source which is slowly degraded by a combination of two different bacteria. The bacteria comprise of a combination of denitrifying and fermentative bacteria which, when entrapped in a suitable polymer and in the presence of an organic carbon source, are capable of reducing nitrate to nitrogen gas without intermediate accumulation of toxic metabolites (e.g. nitrite).