kareen

$90 about a year plus old. 40Watt, 3000l/hr, 2.4m height max.

I think the picture BBS station design not so good... this may cause... either longer hatching time or higher percentage of egg not hatching..... Basic idea is to keep the BBS egg in aeration mode and take care not to have too small bubble. Look here for some of idea about the BBS hatching station. http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/food/bbs/how_to_bbs.html

Glad that u've learned something....

very nice.... any about the coral reef display?

Well, since you say that, highly that is the start of the chain reaction.... if you remove the sponges in time, then probably no serious damage.... I know 'cos I have tried sponges before.... Can you imagine a small piece of sponge's toxic, even the volume of water is 4ft tank plus 3ft sump couldn't take it? I remove it after 2-3 days in tank when I observe funny behavior from other corals... If you want to try out sponges, go for those photosynthesis type like the so called elephant ear sponges and not those colourful ones. The colourful ones are non photsynthesis type and required matured tank to strive.... even so, it is kind of hard also 'cos most sponges shipped poorly... mainly due to air trapped within the sponges will cause it to die off..

The "hole" is too small to flow back to the back... may run the danger of been clog easily as time goes by even if it is okay now....

Be sure not to get anemone for the clown 'cos seahorses may end up in anemone stomach.... Key points for a seahorse tank is low flow 'cos seahorse are lousy swimmer. Also they are slow eater so no greedy fish 'cos they may not get any food in the end.... so don't think clown is a great mate for them too. If you really like clown then drop the idea of having seahorse 'cos they are not suitable for newbies. Canister filter can be used for filteration but be sure to clean it every 2 to 3 weeks time. A added skimmer is good 'cos it provide extra aeration for oxygen from the bubbles beside removing DOC from water. PS: chk out peong's thread on seahorse setup...

sound like too high flow for their liking and parameters should be ok if they do open out... if repositioning is difficult [i know ], u can tilted the wavemaker upwards or aim the direct flow towards the wall... the last one will be to have a lower rating wavemaker... BTW, what is your wavemaker rating? I'm just using a K1 to service the 2' width of my tank nicely... Do you see that my feather head is all tilted?

Chk other parameters such as KH and Mg if u r unable to boost Ca to the correct level.... Does your corals look stress? If so, it may be advisable just to do 20-30% water change...

Hi! - Individual sales will be easier to sell than a whole package. - Even you can find a buyer to take the whole package, most livestock will suffer due to the move 'cos the tank has been torn down and re-setup.... econ system is being reset. Well, that's all I want to write. All the best on your sales.

In my understanding.... turnover rate and flow rate are different topics although they are measured in the same term, l/hr. - Turnover rate means how fast the volume of water that is been "exchange". - Flow rate means that how fast the flow of water is travelling. Can you guys see the differences? The function of the turnover rate and flow rate? Turnover rate is a part of the "clean up function" in a tank-sump tank design... Flow rate is an indication of the "stimulated wave" in our aquarium. PS: it is always better to have a higher specification... eg. higher return pump and higher skimmer pump, etc... But the bottomline is cost especially the running cost as pumps runs 24/7. If that is within your buget then by all means....

Sad to hear that.... Clams are pretty hardy and they look alright when the photo taken.... Can I ask you something.... before the clams died, how was the purple sponge doing? Did you observe any declining sign on the sponges? If yes, I believe that is the starter that init the whole chain of death.... My motive here is to alert the inexperiences reefers the sponges' toxics. Read up about the species before any purchase next time

BTW, what you intend to keep play a part in the decision making too.... For example, in a sps tank, it is advisable to have higher turnover rate.

What Achilles says is right.... apart from the 500l/h, what is the display tank volume? [Assume sump is solely for "cleaning up water"] 500l/h turnover in a 150l display tank is alright in my IMHO 'cos it has about 3x the rate although higher rate has better cleaning power when equip with the correct equipment.

What is this "turnover rate" means to your tank? Do you have a sump connected to it? I'll think that with a low turnover rate, the "full cleansing power " of the sump is not realise.... and also note that with that extra area, it also provide bigger surface area for oxygen exchange.... to pack more corals and fishs in that little area.... There is nothing wrong with a lower turnover rate if you know the effects and from your judgement, the tank residents made no complains

why 2.5 height? Looking at 250W MH or equivalent for lighting to reach the bottom? Do u know this easily means additional 200W of lighting requirement not including the heat? My 2 cents...

Help up fellow reefer if the requirement suit you.... coral reef made fine tank.... mine from them too

Have u seen anemone in an establish tank before? Observe it and u can tell. Hard to describe. Mine has not moved since day 1, I put him there... It "stick" firmly. Stress or not... u be the judge.... Firstly, u have to judge whether the size of anemone and the clown. Then, how is the clown behaviour towards the anemone... At times, the clown can be behaving "rough" towards the anemone.

it is not unusal that saltwater become cloudy especially when new and old saltwater mixed during water change.... The cloudyness is the precipation of calcium carbonate. If it clear off after some time, then nothing to worry about.

Sometimes, it is difficult for us to detach flatworms from corals using bare hand or even some "sticks"... A proper dip will reveal the truth.... Anyway, glad it is not

From the pic, I do not think so... 'cos a look at the footing of the anemone will show that it has not take rooting.... Since the anemone decide to "rest" there, means the possiblitlites is there.... Your picture did not reveal any wavemaker so can't really tell... Anyway, it will know how to satisfy itself so perhap just monitor the situation will do... Do take note not to change wavemaker, lightings location when it settle 'cos this will cause anemone to move again..... Some small feedings will encourage the anemone to stay at selected location, provide the lightings and flow is what the anemone accept.

I know it's been quite a while.... but I must say, something caught my attention.... what are those dots that appear on the red mushroom? Have they increase in numbers over the time? And, have they spread to other corals? PS: Mushroom pic from page 1...

Time for a change.... pal.... the problem here is the leak.... I believe very few repairman do that... no point topping up with gas as it will only last a while... Ask yourself this, how often do you top up the air cond gas in your car?

His response seems to convey something about your lighting in IMHO...

Are these super or common suns? If it is the latter,