kareen

Can you put down the skimmer length, width and height? Also, the feeding pump specs. Many thanks.

UPS

It's nannochloropsis.... By the way, here's a pic to show the state....

Live phyto grown from freshly made coralife salt... $6/litres. Actually intended for rearing some frys but recently too busy and never inspect the tank as often and frys being eaten up...... Collection preferly at my workplace near AYE, Mon - Fri, 9.30am to 6.30pm 'cos that's where I culture them..... Alternatively, near Tiong Bahru MRT after work.

These are what I will check.... Place a thermometer in tank to get the actual tank water temperature. Take note of the temp. when chiller kick in or out. To enusre that chiller is working properly. Also, doing the following may help... - Give the chiller a good vaccum to remove dust that accumulate at the air intake area. - Check whether fan inside chiller working.... - Check the chiller feeding pump working properly... When the above does not help, the last one will be do give it a flush with a slight acidic water (disconnect from tank) for few weeks and then flush with plain water for a day or two.... Maybe change the hose also and then reconnect to see any improvement. From what I understand, the top up of refrigerent should not be neccessary unless there is a leak.... which I think changing a new one a better option.

If yours is only Fish only, water change may be keep to a minimum. Else, keep as little fish as possible and greedy fish like tangs is definite no, should prolong the water change. The rule here is that if the water is clean Eg. nitrate is 0, phoshate is 0 and silicate is 0, then with proper dosing of additives and ensuring that the ionics are balance, why the change water? The problem commonly face is that we are not experts in chemistry and additives are chemicals that change from one state to another... Very often creating minor ionics imbalance and with regular water change, things are in tact....

.... oh my god and I have added 5g of FeSO4 already... er... do u mean all FeSO4 will be used up to bind with something and so by the time I pump back no more FeSO4? Is the suspended organics good or bad one? In simpler words, is okay to overdose a bit to remove some extra suspended organics? BTW, is suspended organics equal to DO, dissolved organics we refer about skimmate? After pumping 4 * 80litres in two days, I notice skimmer cup is filling about 1 quater cup worth of watering, urine colour skimate in 1 day... It takes about 3 days to reach the volume before... The 5th pail is already to pump back but I hold on to it this morning... What is the amount of kalkwasser is needed with FeSO4? How to mix them? Do we take the clear solution from kalkwasser and dose like a drip as in the usual reef or just dump everything in? BTW, just sharing what I found on the FeSO4.... http://www.ecofluid.com/process.cfm Part of the essay.... For example, removal of phosphorus by FeSO4 is given as by the two following reactions: Phosphorus Precipitation 3FeSO4 + 2PO4-3 ---------> Fe3 (PO4)2 + 3SO4-2 Alkalinity Reduction and Hydroxide Precipitation Fe+++ + 3HCO-3 -----------> Fe(OH)3 According to the above two reactions, removal of 2 mg/l of PO4-3, would theoretically produce 6 mg/l of additional sludge. In actual practice, a value of 5 mg/l of sludge per mg/l of PO4-3 removed provides a conservative design value. For an influent wastewater having 240 mg/l of incoming BOD and a sludge yield of 0.6 lbs TSS/lb BOD removal, and the use of FeSO4 to remove 2 mg/l of PO4-3, the total increase in sludge production would be about 7%.

A search on this forum will point to you some bad things that will happen if dosing the red slime remover product.... A better way is to find the roots and I think your case is likely low flow and high nutrients couple with good lightings... Think how to solve that will help in long run. For me, a little addition of rowaphos solve my situation with time....

Chk to ensure that your water parameters are in tact to eliminate one factor that may cause the anemone's unhappiness... During initial intro to tank, choose the best facing in term of flow/lighting/etc and then place the anemone at that location with some liverocks. Slowly the anemone will attach to a piece of rock and then do some rescaping forming a cavelike.... Do take note not to alter the facing 'cos it will cause the anemone to move. Ur anemone is clearly unhappy but hard to say due to what.... Now if the anemone is already sticking to rock then simply take the rock where the anemone stick to and find a good facing and do the above....

if u find hard to boost Ca, likely Mg not enough also.... Also, how do u place the tonga rock that looks like a bridge? Beware that if not secure might fall off when fish/snail/crabs may topple them and without sand to cushion may break the glass..... I notice there is a fair bit of brown sediment at the bottom....

Hello Simon, I'm in my 4 * 20 litres of FeSO4 treatment.... I treat it externally and find the procedure very fast... now I need only about 5minutes to complete. I do 2 pail a day, one in the morning before work and another after work.... So far, everything looks pretty normal. my PO4 should not be low 'cos I feed quite a bit of frozen and dried cylopeeze to my sunnies twice daily.... So, what does this extra addition of limewater remove? Will adding an airstone provide the required O2? Me curious as a cat.... 50ppm of what? uh? 1 gm per 20 litres too much? 7G will roughly give 26litres.... BTW, can I view like as long as there is brown stuffs forming in water equal PO4 presents? Appreciate inputs...

U may consider doing some copper treatment to kill the isopods.... but make sure copper do not get in liverock, livesand and corals..... PS: is the situation serious?

Maybe remove the nudi using hand first and see whether situation is under control or not.... I don't think leopard wrasse will eat nudi if sixlines don't... afterall they are under the wrasse species..

Thank you for the info . It is very true especially for a decent return requirement that is less than 30watts is hard to get.... Can take a pic of the tap so in future when my sump give way, I can consider the tap design?

Underfeeding is better then overfeeding for someone who is not familar.... Water quality is the main key to look out to prevent any chain reaction if u know what I mean....

wah... amitaba.... think of the good thing that others wrasses may not offer... just forget about other wrasses lor.... they are okay with no other wrasses only mah.

what make you think that aryclic stands a better chance than glass? IMO, the chances of it cracking again is there 'cos every hole we drill on the panel is a weak link that will deter further due to aging.... unless leaving untouch... The best way is not having any hole on sump wall for pumps 'cos pump do need some clean up every now and then.... or there is a deteching mechanism so that no force is required to pull the pump apart from the pipe..... Every mistake is a lesson learn.....

Hello... I did a pail of FeSO4 treatment over the weekend externally as per Simon, nakazoru, initial thread treatment.... not so difficult lah... What I did is just basically preparing a pail of new saltwater to exchange with the tank water and add some FeSO4 in the pail with a overhead filter ON for a whole night. This morning I have pumped the treated tank water into the tank and siphon another pail for the same treatment again.... Whole process took about 10 to 15minutes to complete... quite easy. There is a little question.... the way I do it may have omit the aeration process, will it affect the PO4 absorption rate? I add about a little under 1 gram of FeSO4 to a 20litres pail. Is this too little or too much? Appreciate some feedbacks...

Bulb colour (the K, kelvin we refer here) will drift over time. Depending on brand, some drift faster and some slower... so some reefers will just change their bulbs after certain period of usage. Why the important of K? Well, it is that certain range of K that is of most use to the corals we keep. Undesirable algae has larger range and when corals or plants we keep do not grow, the algae do instead. Life span of bulb is generally observing the intensity or drift of colour... it depend on brand and usage. Eg. same brand but different hours of ON hours also differs. I don't think any special ballast, as long as the ballast is rated to light up the required bulb rating. Generally speaking a higher rated ballast can light up a lower rated bulb but may not spell good for the bulb. The right size is ones seek. Having extra bulb is nice apart from the electrical bills. If light is sufficient why the extra which may contribute to heating to the system.... Be the judge yourself to add or not from the corals health...

Oh ya.. if sump capacity is of concern to hold the volume of water that is going down when the return is off.... a little cal on volume should give you the confident. Eg. length * breadth * height ( take the variable height duing ON/OFF return) then use the same concept to the sump. I have about another bucket of water (25litres) of allowance into the sump even after the return is off.....

all the calpulera family lor.... I think some reefers post... those single cells one will go asexual. But I think the main thing is that to know how to prevent them to go asexual... like put those caplulera near wavemaker to lower the flow and prevent them to go asexual.... etc. BTW, I think cheoto grow slower than grape calpulera leh.... the little clump in my sump is still a little clump with not much growth shown.... maybe cannot compete with the grape...

I have never use TM KH test kit before.... but the normal KH test kit I used is basically 1 drop per one degree hardness on a 5ml container.

using an elephant (1.5hp) to kill a little ant ( 28C).... that's why....

If arcylic is more expensive than glass, then personally I think using arcylic is kind of waste 'cos sump material can be anything like plastic.... Arcylic is better than glass in the sense that u get to view the true colour of corals.... Well, my sump glass is just the usual 6mm thickness.... and so far still alright... I think part of the reason is that I have a little more space at one side to take things in and out of sump without the bumping and dropping the equipments down on the glass.... (the slant design)

Nice..... I think whatever u do seems to be able to satisfy them.... give it more TIME and maintain the same quality that make them happy...