kareen

Also I will like to add that without rinsing the frozen mysis or brine shrimp cube, u can add a little less of "whatever" 'cos these frozen cubes normally have added vitamins.... The ingredient list are on the packaging.... The key thing is that one must know how to balance the water quality and feeding..... with "technology" or filteration....

Well, so far this is what I found the most meaningful and yet unknown to me before.... http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-11/rhf/index.php Copied from part of the article... For example, the salinity of seawater, whether measured with a hydrometer, a refractometer or a conductivity meter, is dominated by these four ions. Deviations in the concentration of any other ion, even if significant for other reasons, will not significantly alter such measurements. For example, whether the calcium is 300 ppm or 500 ppm will not be noticeable in a typical salinity determination. That difference represents only a 0.6% change in the total weight of salts present, changing the salinity from 35 ppt to 34.8 ppt. Likewise, whether the alkalinity is 5 meq/L (14 dKH) or 2 meq/L (5.6 dKH), the change in salinity is only about 0.5%. Another important implication of the high concentration of these other ions is that they move around only very slowly when perturbed by additives and foods. For example, adding calcium chloride boosts chloride more than it does calcium, but since there is already a background of 19,000 ppm of chloride, such additions do not rapidly disturb the relative ratios of the various ions in seawater. A small portion of both sodium and potassium (about 5%) exists as ion pairs with sulfate, forming NaSO4- and KSO4-. This type of ion pair is best viewed as a temporary association between the two ions and may last for only a very small fraction of a second before the ions move apart. Nevertheless, this type of association can have important implications for the behavior of these ions. Ions forming such pairs actually "touch" each other. That is, most or all of the hydrating water molecules that are in between them have been temporarily removed. This removal of the intervening water molecules is the primary distinction between ion pairs and ions that are simply near each other. As mentioned above, sulfate forms ionic interactions with most positively charged species in seawater. In fact, more than half of it is in the form of an ion pair, with NaSO4- and MgSO4 dominating. Sulfate is not otherwise especially remarkable as a seawater component since it is present at a fairly high concentration that does not vary much with location or depth. However, if the oxygen level drops substantially, it can serve as an electron acceptor (oxygen source) for microorganisms degrading organic materials. That process forms the toxic gas, hydrogen sulfide. The following chemical reaction describes what happens in that process: Organic (typical) + sulfate à carbon dioxide + bicarbonate + hydrogen sulfide + ammonia + water + phosphate While the normal process in the presence of oxygen is: Organic (typical) + oxygen à carbon dioxide + nitrate + water + phosphate

A better proposal.... there may be a few things to note.... mainly I can think of off hand is the macro algae, bioballs and sand if there is in your sump....

yeah...getting interesting with no much partipation from others.... me now reading until my eyes goes ... not much progress... after all chemistry isn't my rice bowl....

Why arcylic if it is going to be more expensive? Afterall it is going to be just a sump.... Well, even using two motors where one as feeding while the other bubbling, at ground 0 also mean more water is going into the chamber with less loss... unless APF 600 skimmer feeding pump is with an elbow design.... k... just airing my view only....

Well, this is my thought.... Why do u want to put skimmer outside? I will put it inside if I have a choice.... 1) Better skimmer motor power when water is pump at ground 0 with little or no loss due to the elbow 2) no worry of leakage.. of course in sump at a location where simple maintainance easily.... Do u think there will be a sand storm at the sand where water is pass thru? For this, I'm not sure but I know energy is been 'eaten' as the distances goes on and on... and the sand will somehow being blow in a way where it is 'most stable' after a while....

How do get mangroove propagate?

up for the day...

Morning, I know I'm a little ..... but hor... if don't understand, simply dose is easy but fixing the problem later on is difficult... I would like to test out FeSO4 too.... I am doing some reading up on this area to look for some answers.... Eg. 1) Red sea, pacific ocean, indo sea, etc... Is there a percentage differences in SO4 concentration? 2) What is sodium sulphate, magnesium sulphate, calcium sulphate? Harmful? Or actually they are also part of the trace elements found in seawater.... I think direct dosing in tank will likely leave some trace of Fe(OH)3 in water or even left it in the fish gills.... sympton may not show up in short term.... Do the dosing external to tank is more secure. A simple question hit my head.... 3) What is actually rowaphos? Iron oxide? Can we buy the chemical in chemist just like FeSO4? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferric_oxide rowaphos is going at about $75/kg from reefer pm reply. 4) What is the removal capacity of rowaphos versus Iron sulphate? Appreciate any inputs if one knows.... [Thru' sharing, everyone learns more]

Well, I sold them off.... almost quit that time....

Hi nakazoru! For every gram of FeSO4 dose, how many SO4 gets into the water? From the ratio above, it will take about 350 ppm of SO4 to up another percentage point of a normal seawater ratio (7~8%)....

Hi nbc! Correspond with CFOh. It's his unit....

yup... we have met... I bought 2 giant squamosa from u.....

sps for newcomer ==> new tank ==> death sentence. my 2 cents.

Do u intend to let the tank going seahorse-less while the plants establish? BTW, where u get so many species? From reefers? Some pointers to prevent grape going asexual base on my experiences.... Choose a moderate to high flow area will prevent it going asexual. I am a little confident to speak so is due to recent event that has take place in my tank.... There is massive lailai dieing in the tank for two weeks and I believe the condition was pretty bad 'cos I lost an anthia.... It contacted pop eye disease.... During that two weeks, no asexual from the grape algae (about 1 feet away from Hydor K1) in the display tank where I clipped on to feed the fish, considering there is a period of total darkness in display daily...

UPS for probe and fish....

ups... Also, friend got a red sea purple tang for sale as well....

Add a flat liverock to act as barrier between the two if possible....

Could it be the PO4 is not detectable now? Do a little experiment to test out... Take some water from tank in a container, dump some food for it a day or two and then measure the PO4..... PS: can explain what is Tay's drip? PSS: oh ya, juz test water from the rotifer culture should have PO4....

Do u have any corals in the QT? If no, take away the Seio to reduce heat xfer to water. What is the turnover for the canister? Make sure there is enough O2... Also regular clean up for canister 'cos it will choke over time.... I will prefer those cheap overhead kind of biology filter than canister due to easier maintainance. As long as temperature not above 30, should be alright for the fish.... Like what colinsoon said, do not on lights for 24 hours.... and pipes for fish to hid....

I have not yet tried the FeSO4... 'cos I have a little spare time to do some water change over the weekend.... I have setup the plankton and rotifer though... Where is the thread about Tay's drip method? I didn't know... PO4 test kit veri expensive... do u think it's necessary to own one? To me, PO4 reading is not as useful as Ca or Mg.... Knowing the level will not enhance the reef... I will spend the money on saltmix, Ca testkit...

looks more like turtle weeds than green hairline algae....

Well, how well equip is the QT? Is the tank able to provide the requirement for the long stay till your reef tank mature?