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dtdream last won the day on July 16

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  1. Hi lextheimpaler, I would say most LFS in Singapore are able to assist you for a simple set up. Just visit any LFS near you. Most are decent in their own way! You don't have to buy anything, just talk to them. If you want to fact check, feel free to ask away in the forums. There is only really 1 shop I would avoid, especially if you are a beginner. It's located in the west. So if you live in the west, think it's not fair to name in a public forum, so just PM me to confirm or deny that is the shop I'm referring to. But as mhcraft has mentioned, it would really help to know more details for us or the LFS to assist you better. The most basic questions would be: What size of tank do you think you want? what do you roughly want to keep (fish only, soft coral, sps)? Have you maintained a marine tank before? freshwater?
  2. Hi anybody have a copy of the book "The Reef Aquarium, Volume 3 Science, Art, and Technology" for sale? If anybody who has it but don't want to sell, can let me borrow for a couple weeks? There's a copy in the Singapore library, but only for reference unfortunately. Which means I can only read in the library, not able to borrow and bring back. Please PM if you have, thanks!
  3. Well, just plan ahead, and plan slowly. Then IF the time comes, you're ready. But most importantly, enjoy what you have now!
  4. Its not very clear in the full tank shot, but I do have some tiny cheap-ish ($10-$15) frags just to test water. But I did get a more expensive ($40) hammer LPS, so I get to see some "moving" corals at least. Probably the biggest challenge face keeping a tank in the office is the weekends, because I don't usually go unless I have some larger maintenance task I have to do like change water, which I do every 2 weeks, but long run I'm going to try to stretch it to once a month. But anyway I bought a cheap battery operated fish feeder (white colour!) to feed the fish over the weekends, so its all good. We also have cameras around the office, so can monitor no issue. The benefit of having your tank in the office is that I think most of us spend our waking hours in the office rather than in our homes actually (of course now covid is an exception), so get to enjoy the tank more. If your vendor/customer sends you a nasty email, then just look at the fish swimming then all will be well! Yea my wife is supportive for sure. Its just our home is not that big, and we have 2 young kids, so she wants our kids to have more space to move around. Plus young kids and wires don't go very well together, and we all know how much wires we have in and around our tanks!
  5. On the size of tank, I think it's a very personal choice. It would depend if you are just trying the hobby out, space considerations, etc. For me I don't plan on upgrading anymore, and the 350 was probably the biggest I can fit in my space, so went with that. Though I consider the Reefer 350 a "medium" tank, not "big" at all. Bigger tanks are easier to keep water parameters stable. Plus you'll have more margin for mistakes, like feed to much, dosed wrongly etc. Of course, in major mistakes, smaller tanks are better because you can do large water changes more easily. I think cost wise comparing smaller to bigger tanks, the largest difference will be lighting cost. It cost quite a bit more to add additional lighting per feet of tank. For example pump wise, you just bought a Jebao pump right? I think to go one level up is about maybe $30-50 more? But for lighting, your current light is a Red Sea Reef LED 50? Price about $350 each? If you go from Nano to Peninsula 500, you'll probably need at least x3 light fixtures if you don't supplement with T5. But I saw your Nano still got plenty of space to put corals, so more fun times ahead la. When maxed out liao then can apply to your CFO again hahaha! And yea the mirrors are great for tang management, here's a couple of videos showing the effectiveness of mirrors. A: Yellow Tang (most aggressive because biggest) was in isolation with new Purple Tang, with divider of course. But you see the Gem Tang keep rushing it also. rushing.mp4 B: This was after I put the mirrors in, Gem Tang stopped rushing and just attack its own reflection haha. Didn't care about the Purple Tang anymore. ownself.mp4
  6. Nice tank bro, looks clean and organized. I see how you place a wood panel on the side of your sump area to secure everything together. Smart! Just updated my tank thread with the most recent pic, your post made me do it, been procrastinating haha. See here, scroll to last post: https://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/topic/189896-dts-dream/
  7. Long overdue update, been procrastinating. But in the spirit of recording my progress, regressions and mistakes, here goes. Below is photo from today: Lighting Update: It was only yesterday that I managed to fix all the lights up properly: 4ft Aquatic Life Hybrid Fixture White Aquatic Life Hybrid Wall Mount White 4 x 54W T5 bulbs (1x Aquablue Special, 1x Coral Plus, 2x Blue Plus) 2 x Kessil A360X 1x Kessil Wifi Dongle The Hybrid fixture with the T5s have been up for about 3-4 weeks, and the Kessil were only up 2 days ago. Reason was that I bought the 16" end bracket from overseas, and it took a little while to arrive. The stock 18" end bracket I find too wide for the Red Sea tank, and I wanted more concentration of light in the center of the tank where my rocks and would be corals are. I chose the T5 combination above as I don't really like tanks which are too blue. With the above combination, the light would probably I guess around 12-14K (no Kessils). If you like Bluer tanks, replace the Aquablue special with a Blue plus. Have not measured PAR ratings with the Kessils yet, but just the T5s alone are about 300 PAR at the top, 250 PAR in middle, and 150-200 PAR at the bottom. The mount is currently roughly 5-5.5" off the water's surface. I was initially thinking of getting 3 Kessils, but its really too damn ex and I don't want to spend all my kid's schooling money lol. So since the PAR ratings with just the T5s look fair, decided to just get 2 Kessils to supplement and mainly for the Kessil Shimmer. The Kessil Shimmer is amazing, it's main reason I got the Kessils. I know I could have gotten much better PAR per dollar with other brands, but no other LEDs even comes close to the natural shimmer of Kessils. The Shimmer is "straight" like natural sun, no fuzzy tv static like other LEDs. It reminds me of my old Metal Halide circa 15 years ago. FYI, I used the Seneye Reef to measure PAR, and it seems to be doing a fair job, so need to plus points to the Seneye Reef (was bashing it in earlier post). With the Kessils in, I'm guessing the PAR ratings should be higher but haven't got to measuring it yet. Here's hoping my lighting will be sufficient to keep any corals I may want to. So any regrets/lessons? Yes. While I think it looks pretty nice in the photo, there's actually quite a lot of light spill with no hood covering the lights. As I'm sitting probably only about 1m away from the tank, the light from the fixture spills onto my desk and monitor. This makes it pretty my monitor glaring and harder to see. As a stop gap, I got an 9am high acrylic sheet secured with masking tape to block out the light when sitting beside it (not pictured), and it helps significantly. I'm planning to make a DIY hood using foam PVC sheets, will post again when I get to it. So for those of you planning to do a rimless tank with no light hood. Yea pictures online look nice, but please remember to consider if you are ok with the light spill. This can be a problem if the tank will be beside your desk like me, or even in the living room and too close to the TV/Sofa (light shine on your TV and can't watch properly)! Fishes update: Besides the 2 clowns, which have since gotten nicer (got "blacker", will post pics again), I've added 1 Yellow Tang, 1 Gem Tang and 1 Purple Tang. I got another nice reefer to help me do a 2 week observation quarantine for a fee just as an insurance since I was lazy to set up my own QT. His DT is pretty amazing with a hell lot of tangs in it, and all look very healthy too. For those of you thinking how I got my 3 tangs to live in peace, here are some tips (which worked!) from the reefer friend who helped me do the QT (if you're reading this, thank you!). 1. Isolate the biggest/most aggressive tang, and put it side by side with the new tang in an isolation box. Preferably for 2-3 days. 2. Always let the newest/weakest tang out of the isolation box first to familiarize with it's surroundings without getting bullied by the "old" tang (who is still in isolation). Try to let the new tang familiarize its new surroundings for 2-3 days as well before releasing the "old" fish. 3. Feed the new tang a lot more when in the isolation box. Try to make it fat just incase it gets bullied too much when it comes out and goes into hiding. 4. Mirrors. This is probably the best tip. I put 2 cheap (~$2-3?) ikea mirrors at the side of my tank, and the aggressive fish immediately attacked it's own reflection and left the new fish alone. I initially placed 2 of the slightly bigger mirrors, and stuck it with masking tape. I have since removed the bigger ones, but I have replaced it with a smaller ikea mirror as an insurance. Plan to leave it there for a while more since its not that unsightly and I can't really see it anyway. Below is a pic of how I placed the smaller mirror. Anyway, it was hard to get pics of all 3 tangs together, so here is a short video instead if anyone ones to see. IMG_0167.mp4 For those of you who are wondering, I did it the introduction this order: Yellow Tang, Gem Tang, Purple Tang. All is not smooth though, at about 6 weeks in, my Gem Tang is showing some sort of external parasite issue on its dorsal fin, its still pretty healthy otherwise and not affecting other fishes, so just monitoring for now. Ok I still have some stuff to update but it's getting too late, CO complaining. Will try to continue tomorrow or another day. Thanks for reading!
  8. Haha to be fair to ABA, their business model is fast in fast out, so can't help but have some casualties on the way. If you have a QT or just plain lucky, their fish prices are a fair bit cheaper than other places. So if you think about it, if you spend $100-200 on a simple QT, you'll get your money's worth if you shop at ABA. I know reefers who do QT, and they do have good experiences with ABA. As for SAS, try not to be too over confident also la, I personally know other reefers who got from there also experience mortality. Imo SAS IS "better", but as our Police like to say, "Low crime doesn't mean no crime". 1. Actually another way to reduce a little sound is to buy those food grade silicon mat, and put under the pump to further reduce sound which comes from vibration. You can buy on Lazada/Shopee etc, but make sure its food grade. Alternatively, you can buy at IKEA also, its not ex but just a hassle to go there I guess, slightly risky too with all the covid cases going on now. 2. Yea DC pumps are great for sound right? Btw, you could consider to use the "old" 1200 LPH pump for your chiller, and the new DC pump for main return + UV? Then maybe you can go one down from max. But in any case, running at max shouldn't be any problem imo, they're supposed to be designed for it! Just make sure the flow rate would let your chiller cool your tank efficiently. If you find that your chiller takes a long time to chill your tank, its generally either (1) undersized, (2) flow rate too fast or too slow.
  9. Haha yea I’m going to slowly think about the UV. It’s part of the hobby, enjoy the waiting and the thinking. Cool, if you have a tank thread please share, always nice to see pics. I have one but not updated, been really lazy. Will try to update soon.
  10. I certainly hope so, if my Varios fails then I gotta go buy 4D lol. While I would agree SAS fishes are generally healthier than other LFS, the risk of white spot/parasite is not zero.. I believe they do use therapeutic copper in their tanks too, which suppresses but not necessarily kills all ich and other parasites, etc. Then if suay and actually the fish has suppressed ich, etc, when you bring home it all comes out. In fact I got one fish I bought and QT with another reefer for 2 weeks, still kena I *think* some kind of parasite. Very minor and it seems like on and off though. Plus the fish is healthy and doesnt seem to be affecting other fish. So just monitoring for now. Actually if you have another tank it would be nice to do QT, for QT-ing fishes only you don't need a chiller. I do understand the hassle though. But then again your tank running UV should be added insurance too, I've been thinking of adding UV to my tank too but still thinking. And yea for equipment I want to buy, I usually google the model for reviews first. So can see what other users say in the other worldwide forums too.
  11. Yea I've heard good things about the Jebao actually, but I did not get it because I read some other places that from time to time it does fail (but very, very few cases to be fair). DCP-6500 imo overkill for the Red Sea Reefer Nano though, its 6500 LPH! I think for Nano the DCP-4000 should be more than enough even considering head loss. I went with the Reef Octopus Varios 4 as I read pretty much zero bad things or failures on it. It is quite a bit more chor though, so while it works perfectly, I'm not entirely convinced it's worth it, but maybe 90% sure? hahaha! And yea I know what you mean, this is hobby really feels like bottomless pit.. SAS is a great place to shop, a lot of nice stuff, but it is a slightly more expensive place for livestock. They do maintain their tanks pretty well though, so give and take I suppose.
  12. Yay! Yep if you do end up geting another return pump, you could consider to get a slightly stronger pump that allows you to adjust the flow a little, so you have some margin of error. Just try to keep in mind the the head loss factor when you buy. If you are very "ngiao" on noise like me, don't get pumps which are too oversized too, because it will produce more vibration noise, especially the AC pumps. You could consider the DC pumps which are much quieter, but also much more painful for the wallet unfortunately. In any case, generally speaking higher tank turnover rates up to a point, is good for overall tank health. eg. 10x your tank's total water volume. (absolute turnover without head loss, interference, etc.)
  13. No worries. Yea you can try as above, but if still find too much head loss with the UV attached, you can try putting the UV + Chiller together on 1 pump, then the main return pump to you DT no interference with anything else. If you find that that works, and you still want to keep your UV attached to main return pump, then probably time to get a stronger pump.. Good luck!
  14. I own a red sea 350, using stock valve, I agree not so easy to tune, but with some patience, not so terrible. My overflow is almost dead silent after tuning. My 2 cents: Most probably your pump is not strong enough. Please remember that there is always some head loss whenever you add things in series to your pump. Based on what I can see on the Red Sea Website, even Nano they are recommending a 2000 LPH pump. https://www.redseafish.com/aquarium-systems/reefer/#data So if you are using 1200 LPH, even with no head loss, its still slightly underpowered. I guess the reason you found it ok at first, is because if it is connected only from sump to tank, the head loss you experience is only head loss from height, which is still ok I guess. But once you add things in series like your chiller and UV, then you'll experience too much head loss. I'm not sure what pump you are using, but just as an example, if you have the Syncra 1.5 which is rated at 1350 LPH, at 1m height (sump to DT), it effectively only is a 1000 LPH pump. Graph below. So you need to check what is the height from your sump to DT, and then check the head loss graph of the pump you bought. If no graph, you can use the below as a rough guide I suppose. And if you are working with effectively only a 1000 LPH pump, then you add chiller and UV in series, it maybe become only a 800 LPH pump or even less. My opinion is that it will best to set up a different pump just for the chiller/UV. Don't think you need to worry about the efficiency. I run a separate pump for my chiller that returns to the sump as well, my water is chilled just fine. If you think about it, assuming a 1000 LPH main return pump, it's still relatively quite a lot of water. So even if the UV/Chiller pump returns back to the sump, a good part of the water from the UV/Chiller pump will be recirculated back to the main DT by the main pump. Also, please double check, but most likely your chiller and UV water flow requirement is different from your return pump requirement. So if you run them in series to your return pump, then its not going to be very efficient for your chiller and UV too. If you wish to investigate in more detail, you can "agar" how much head loss you are currently experiencing by doing a simple experiment. Take a bigger measuring cup, a timer, and time how fast the water coming out of your return nozzle in your DT (with your current set up) fills that cup. Then, go to your sump, disconnect your pump to measure directly the time it takes to fill the same cup without any head loss or interference. You should see a pretty big difference.
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