dtdream

bump

Bought 3 May 2021. So about 7 months only. Still under warranty (2 years so left 1 year 4 months direct with manufacturer). In very good condition, almost new. Grills are pristine, see pics. Pic of chiller and its serial number attached. Feel free to check with Aquanautic. Selling because upgrading.

5cm from wall is bit narrow. cuz if you keep it at 5cm, you most likely won't be able to put corals on that side of the rocks. even small corals will be a couple cm size, and if they grow out will touch the glass for sure.

you have to read the manufacturer instructions. usually a booklet inside.

Budget UV is useless, doesn't do anything, and/or deteriorates quickly and leeches things into your tank. I think the most "budget" one you can consider is the bigger sized Eheim ones.

10 gallons is fair size. Just don’t keep a big Naso or something in there If you end up really doing a QT, buy some PVC elbow pipes put inside for the fish to hide too. If you plan to run copper, keep in mind the media you put in the small bag don’t absorb copper. And no rocks as well (absorb copper). The seachem matrix again some overseas reefers tested and seems it doesn’t absorb copper so you could potentially use that.

How big is your spare acrylic tank? Too small also not so good ah. But yes it is possible. You buy a few small bags, I think the ans brand it cheap and good. You put some media in the bag and throw in your main sump. When you need to run QT, just do a water change in your main tank, use the main tank water put in your QT, then put the small bag of media into a simple hob filter. Then viola, you got a QT tank. But caveat is again your main tank must be relatively established la, so like I would say maybe 3-6 months? For your media in small bag to get the established bacteria. Then, the small bag also have to soak in your established tank sump I would say at least 2-3 weeks? Some people on overseas forum I read say 1 week can liao. But I think at least 2-3 weeks or more to be safe. Just bring out our Singapore kiasu spirit here is best.

Yea usually can ask to show you to feed. The shop knows if their fish is feeding one la. But please practise common courtesy and only ask if you sincere in buying la. Don’t later ask shop feed, you see fish feeding then don’t buy. Later kena “mark”, next time they see you won’t feed for you liao haha

Another thing I would like to add before I get bashed. Some other more experience reefers believe that it is better to get the fish when just arrive, so that the fish doesn’t get to soak and kena anything in the LFS tank. I agree especially if you are experienced, have a super established tank with UV, have quarantine tank, know how to take care of those just arrive fish, and know how to coax the fish to eat. Best if most or all of the above.

Ok. Did you see the fish eating at the fish shop? This is pretty important imo. I usually only buy fish which is eating at the shop unless it’s those hard to come by ones and I really really want, then will tikam. Btw, active not necessarily most healthy. For example, the fellow have itch and swimming around trying to scratch. It’s more of “normal swimming behavior”. Also, some fish natural behavior is just “relax one corner”. Hard to describe but you just gotta look at more “healthy fish” and do bit of research before buying. For common fish like clowns, in fact I’ll ask the shop roughly how long its been in the shop. If just come etc, I will skip. If stable for few weeks, which you should be able to find for common clowns, then I will buy (and feeding!). BUT, big caveat is also if certain tanks you see other fish have health problems (esp ich), then it’s almost guaranteed the fish which has been in that tank for few weeks will have it too, no matter how healthy it looks. Ok noted your tank is 1.026 and acclimate slowly one hour should be fine. I’m assuming drip acclimate? But just be careful also sometimes our calibration is off. What I like to do also is test the water in the fish bag. So I roughly know what’s the difference. I would say that if your other fish is fine, then most probably the fish which mati is already compromised when you bought. Whatever it had was just suppressed by the copper in the shop’s tank. Just make sure next time best if you see it feeding at the shop. Don’t paiseh to ask the shop if feeding. IME all shops I visit will tell you, and most will feed for you to see if you ask. But, as with all things, can be just suay. Just hope for your sake it’s not one of those expensive “designer” ones.

Actually 3 weeks is possible. If some rock/media from established tank is used (but must ensure established tank no ich, etc.). Or wack the a lot bacteria. But yea need OP to advise what is the tank's parameters, esp ammonia.. But I guess the issue is not totally because of tank not completely cycled. Must have been something else too, eg. fish not healthy. Cuz if fish healthy it won't die in 1 or 2 days even if tank not completely cycled (unless OP added ammonia to cycle and levels still high). And/or Salinity change too fast. Probably a combination of factors...

Quite a few potential reasons.. 1. Depends on what condition the fish was when you bought it. Most LFS run at least a little/therapeutic level copper in their tanks so it may have been suppressed. When you put in your copper free water, then all comes out (Brooklynella/ich, etc). Best is if you see fish feeding and behaving normally at fish shop before buying. Ask the shop to feed abit for you to see. If not feeding, better stay away until you are more experienced in coaxing fish to eat. But even then its still 50/50. 2. But importantly also, what are your tank parameters? For fish just concern yourself with Ammonia, Nitrate levels. 3. I know yours is a new tank, so your cycle complete? 4. Did you acclimate your fish before putting in your tank? If yes, how you acclimate? What is your salinity level? If salinity level big difference fast acclimation is problematic, especially if LFS salinity is lower and yours is much higher. eg. 1.020 to 1.026. 5. What rocks you use? Do you have any used media/rocks/sand?

you can just use one first. if you need more can always add later.

Gotta use the higher flow ro/di units for faster fill. Big pail about 45mins for me. Mine is supposedly 400gallons per day model. But I think in actual use rate is a bit less. Depends on your water pressure too

yes hanna only alk and phosphate ulr. but hanna just released the nitrate HR and heard good things. yet to try. others i think salifert is good enough. all kits have some slight margin of error anyways. but just rmb that testing consistency is important. for for example, is using the salifert Calcium and Magnesium test kits, try to ensure when you draw the reagent into the syringe, it is always at about the same level. from watching some youtube videos, it should be 0.85.

im a big believer in patience. you have excessive cyano because your tank does not enough have "good" bacteria/algae in your tank which outcompetes the cyano. just give it some time. might take a couple months or even more. stuff like chemiclean is essentially an antibiotic. it will help, as cyano is basically a bacteria, but it does affect other bacteria in your tank too. but if you want a quick fix yea it should help, just be mentally prepared that it will come and go lo. if you want to go the "natural" route (patience), just elevate your KH slightly (Julian Sprung recommends above 8) to help. increasing flow around cyano growth area helps too.

2. Yes, Epoxy will be much safer. By right you should be able to lift the top rock without the bottom rock dislodging once epoxy cured if you have used enough epoxy. I prefer to use more Epoxy then less just in case, especially if you able to glue it without it being too obvious so it looks nice visually too.

1. Fill with ro/di water then add salt mix in tank. Have some pumps to circulate water and mix the salt. 2. You using dry rock? If so, you can aquascape outside your tank before putting in. Epoxy will be much more stable. For me I used both. So Epoxy for gluing the large rocks together. Then supper glue for the minor /small things. Allow time for epoxy to cure, about 24 hours should be ok. Tip: you can use small chipped off rocks to cover the epoxy joints so the epoxy is not obvious. 3. I don't use Radions so others can probably chime in. But just from brief reading the pro should be "better". Blue might be too blue unless you going for that look. Some corals pop better in blue, but personally I prefer a whiter look. But I think you can adjust the colour of the Radions if you using their app in any case. Again, hopefully other bros with Radions can advise you.

offer withdrawn. will keep. mod please close thread.

thanks

Hi, can anyone who have installed drop in coil PM me with contact? Considering it and would like to get a quote, thanks!

Filter cup and put filter floss inside

Try Trochus snails.

Ahh ok, can exchange? If not it’s ok la, just try first I guess. Maybe you’ll end up liking it.

I'm not sure, doesn't look like it. But maybe ok la, I've not used Nyos before but should be a fairly decent brand. Unless you can call the shop to change since I guess not delivered yet? I have a Reef Octopus Varios 4 and Varios 2 which I really like and will recommend if you have the budget for it. But if not, read that the Jebao MDC ones are pretty decent too. Think there is a newer MDP one as well. Congrats on your new tank! Happy days.