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Everything posted by bawater

  1. Eggs hatched,swam out of tank & then eaten by everything including going into overflow. (within an hour of hatch) Don't worry, you should have another batch laid in a week. Raise the larvae outside the main tank. This is the best choice. Black rubbish bags are your best friend. Buy some & a small plastic goldfish tank, wrap it with trash bags (see bottom for example). Prep: Get ready a torchlight. Fill the small tank with main tank water on the day of hatch, start bubble 1-2 bubbles per sec. You can hatch them artificially like you tried but I find it a pain (to get them
  2. Hi mag, pls keep pics at 800pixels wide (easy to view), any bigger & it stretches the screen making posts difficult to read. A sponge is a very simple animal. They are basically a mass of cells. They posses no nervous, digestive or excretory systems. When you get your sponge home you should acclimate it to your aquarium very slowly. Sponges are not sensitive to temperature, but do not like drastic shifts in salinity. Add a little bit of tank water to the bag containing the sponge every 10 minutes for about one hour. This will enable the sponge to slowly adjust the changing water
  3. Members have a right to be a little sensitive on this topic - although you have a right to feel happy paying $25 for a Sarcophyton leather coral, many other hobbyist who visit the shops know very well its way beyond what they would pay. You also fail to mention the weekday $20 9am-3pm delivery charge (making your leather hmmm$45), of course if you want it on the weekend its $40 additional. Now that's becomes $65 for a leather coral. There is no coralmarketplace registered in the singapore business directory http://www.acra.gov.sg/general/directory.html maybe it is not registered u
  4. They may, percula/ocellaris hybrid pairs do happen and do spawn. What they produce is a different story A.percula takes over a yr to develop 3 stripes while black A.ocellaris takes oooh ard 20+-30day for stripes & 6mths-1 yr to colour.
  5. A lot of the marine fishes look different when they are young, a few of the clown species are also the same. They take quite a while to develop. The black pigmentation start in the fins when they get ard 3 months then slowly in the bodies by the time they reach 6mths. (they are still a dark brown at this age) From then how fast they go jet black depends on water quality & space. Usually full black at a yr. nothing much exciting now, just watching them grow, fight & colour up. 6mths 8mths
  6. It does depend on your preference of viewing time (maybe you work late so you don't want to come home to see a dark tank everyday) As long as you have a set schedule - the animals will get use to it. And lighting duration depends on your inhabitants- whether its full of light loving corals, lower lighting animals or just fish. You can follow nature and go with 10 or 12hrs a day. You can run different lights at intervals that total up to 15hrs a day too (stimulating dawn-dusk) e.g - a T5 or 2 on from dawn to dusk with MH or more T5's running 8-9hrs in the middle. Usually reef recommenda
  7. Hi mansiz The layer is a crust of carbonate (when kalk reacts with carbon dioxide from the air), the CO2 in the water will also react when mixing and will settle with the remainder of the kalk powder at the bottom. You use the clear liquid which is already 100% saturated and throw away the sediment at the bottom. In an open air container - kalk mixed water will last around 4days. If its air tight then more than a week like what nakazoru has posted. You can drip in the mornings (this is usually when pH is at the lowest)
  8. Hi Serene, welcome to the forum - To answer your question, Spirulina is a blue green algae which has been dried and can be found as a green powder. It is used in fish food as a supplement (not on its own) usually not more than 5%. It is high in Beta-carotene which is a carotenoid. Carotenoids are the major pigment compound and it also helps the immune system as well as detoxification processes. Yes it works on freshwater & marine fishes. You can find many brands of fish food that contains spirulina in most fish shops, just look for it in the ingredients. If you are able to, rotate
  9. Hi Jun, We don't just change water to replenish elements - there are always additives to do that. It has much more benefit than that. For a FOWLR tank with tip top filtration & low bioload - it will minimise or prolong water changes (depending on you filtration/equipment/capacity - to once a month,once every 2mths,once every 3mths or longer) of course water changing is a chore - to someone who keeps a 4ft,6ft or 8ft tank but for a 2ft - it can be done in less than 15mins. That's 15mins per month Bacteria populations will never over populate bio-load , it will always stay in proporti
  10. Ferrous Sulphate is used in the medicine industry as ###### iron supplements, but usually iron tablets also contain Manganese Sulphate and Copper Sulphate. It is not as efficient as the FE products on the market today. Ferrous Sulphate is also used as a Fe plant nutrient supplement or fertilizer. As a chemical, if it can be used will bond with phosphate and will need to be siphoned out of the aquarium(or removed somehow). Iron media available are granular ferric oxide (GFO) or Granular ferric hydroxide (GFH): symbol=Fe2O3 . Their working range is between pH2.5 to 12.5 They were develo
  11. yes it is fine. Same media,same tank, no difference.
  12. Hi francis welcome to SRC, At the moment your tank should have a lovely ammonia and nitrite peak which can kill fishes. This whole cycle process will take on average 30days. Although the LFS may have told you shop seawater won't need to cycle - Your new filter needs to cycle! Which they failed to mention. You have to leave the tank alone for another 2-3weeks before adding anything else. Your 1.5ft with a hang on filter will be able to hold around 3-4inch of fish max(3-4 small clowns max or a single pair of clowns). This is taking into consideration filtration/water movement/oxygen c
  13. Howdee GrooveMeister, Yes you can use distilled water straight from the bottle to the tank. Distilled water comes from steam. The purity of the steam and the temperature at which this occurs would make drinkable water as is. Steam is produced and cooled and the condensate then put directly into a sealed sterile container. Storage would require no chlorine. Even if chlorine or other purifying agent like ozone is used it would be absolutely minimal. You may want to try it first. Distilled water has a very flat, bland taste.
  14. If the livestocks in the tank show no signs of distress, i would rely more on the hydrometer reading 1.025 for now. plastic hydrometers are usually calibrated at 25c, so at 28c the actual reading is around +0.003 or +0.004 or more. (1.015 can be actually 1.018 or 1.019 if you use a ATC refractometer). Using this water it will most probably bring down your SG to 1.023 or 1.022 measured by the hydrometer which is still ok and of no concern. (Marine parameters of 1.021-1.026 allows you this margin) The only concern is the probe - maybe re-calibrate it again, the extra 0.100+ reading is wa
  15. Hi minireef yes there is something wrong- Salinity is measured in ppt(parts per thousand) or Specific Gravity(density) with 1.175sg you have 218ppt (seawater is 28ppt-35ppt) *In reference- the Dead Sea has a salinity of 300ppt and only bacteria lives in it. If your readings are right, you are around 7 times over the range and the tank shouldn't have anything swimming in it. Something is wrong and i think its the device you use to measure salinity- you can cross reference(double check) with a cheap hydrometer (that gives you at least the range you are in even if it is not accurate)
  16. Would you by any chance be using natural seawater or shop bought water? If you are - do a serial water change with a saltmix (artificial saltwater) 10-20gal per change per week for 4 weeks. If you are using saltmix? change brand & do a serial water change. You will need to look into a bigger skimmer - something to skim at least 600ltrs volume(your fish load is heavy for a 4ft and need to compensate) Optional- you can use additives to boost up the magnesium levels but if your test kits are correct, the jump is big (for 300mg/L cal you should be at around 1000mg/L magnesium) - Jus
  17. Hi Steven, The Octo can recover but its still too new in the tank. Only time will tell, You can move it to a mid-light area somewhere about 1ft distance from the MH bulb with a moderate flow. You can feed some mysis to it, this will help in recovery.
  18. Why not all?maximizes the space and works as a remote biotower, just prefilter the water as much as possible first on the intake tube- so the canister only intakes clean water. If you mean that the canister is the only filter for the entire tank, then the media should be the last tier(usually at the top) after all the mechanical media(sponge). This will mean the canister will need to be cleaned often.
  19. Hi jun, ceramic media like rings/biohome are designed for slow water flows (unlike bioballs/most plastic media) so over time biofilm & biofloc will build up on their surface - if they are kept out of light or in a shaded area this will take much much longer. Once they get slimy and brown remove a portion and wash with tapwater (scrub them with a toothbrush if need be) - Replace the media and repeat to the other portions a week later. If they are kept out of light in clean filtered water, this only needs to be done once or twice a year. There is no need for new replacement, unless
  20. Hi Lyz77 Your SPS will consititute to a drop in KH, For every 1 calcium molecule, 2 molecules of carbonate are used to build calcium carbonate skeletons. So it is only natural dkh will drop faster than calcium. Coralline algae will also contribute to these needs. Your parameters are fine - dosing alkalinity buffers twice a week for a tank with sps is quite ok. In a perfect world or in a tank with just water and no living things: For calcium at 450ppm the equal parameters for Mg is X3(1350ppm) and 4.5meg/L(12.6dkh). But as every tank's uptake differ according to its inhabitants and co
  21. Which is why it is dying in the first place , if you want to rescape this is the best time to do it. Remove that rock and break off that portion with the dying coral. (use a hammer & an old screwdriver as a chisel- *note old because screwdriver will rust)
  22. yup, the LPS should be the source of ammonia and once you remove the dying corals you should be fine. Rescaping shouldn't cause any upset to parameters except it will stir up some paticulate matter- no worries. You don't have to keep adding bacteria - maybe only to jump start if you wish but at a month the bacteria colonies should be established. At this stage- it makes no difference if you add more, less or none Just keep an eye on the ammonia levels, 0.25 is not an emergency but an alert signal. Or another unlikely extra source of ammonia is chloramine from tap water,which is chlor
  23. Hi ong, The xenia is most probably the cause(xenia is known for it), only one way to find out for sure- move it abt 12" (30cm) away. If it still happens remove the xenia. This happens with some leather corals too.
  24. Hi Ghoti, Hormones are not the staple in marine food, many if not all feed manufacturers have made a move to hormone free foods and products for a few years. Hormone feeds are not a everyday thing nowadays since overfeeding or prolong feedings have drastic side effects. Hormones temporarily impair immune function leaving the fish exposed to the various parasites and diseases. Hormones will affect the livers, causing flatu-lent abdomens,and sometimes faded colours. If you do want to use it you will need to visit the vet as its not available off the shelf. --------------------------
  25. Hi Searching 4dan, just a simple calulation,in cm- lengthXwidthXheight divide by 1000 = volume in litres. If you want gallons (as salt mix usually in gal) divide litres by 3.75. your tank - 75cmx50cmx50cm + sump 60cmx30cmx30cm Total : 64.4gal almost all saltmix (anybrand) is half cup of salt to 5gal of freshwater. You will need 30cups of salt. or 8.4kg of salt since you have already used 4kg, you need another 4kg (this does not count water displacement from rocks/equipment etc) You will need to adjust the final specific gravity/salinity because of this.
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