bawater

If you mean lighter than the beginning of the culture? then it has already passed its peak density - its on the way to a crash. 6-10days is usually the time frame for max density(dark green). After that nutritional value and density drops. If you can't get dark green cultures anymore(no matter how long you culture) means its contaminated. Time to restart from a fresh batch.

just curious, Nobody uses calcium? even with sps from my calculations in my tank(only mine) an open hand 6inch height size staghorn colony manages to suck up abt 15-20ppm calcium per 24hr day - producing a few mm of new growth per week. so reef dna is a product name for calcium? cause marc weiss products are not cheap

Seriously, i hope you tested the concoction. Based on assumption that everything is 'LIve' N.oculata,N.Salina,N Chlorella are from DT - (If you cultured this, only one strain will dominate. T.Iso is unstable stored Live - Live storage not more than 30days. In which metabolites will be produced as a by product. Unless preservatives are used...which is another issue. Tetraselmis - No issue. Selcon - For immediate enrichment only. Its is a base of fish oils, using it to feed the tank................really hope the skimmer can cope. Store the above mix for 7-10 days and have a smell. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Otherwise - To follow along 'Live' it looks like a mixture of DT & Aquatim. Others on the market are not Live(Non-Viable). Although very much more concentrated and economical in scale of use. And again- Skip the selcon. Does more bad than good if mixed into that recipe. Use selcon on its own to enrich (gut load) Brineshrimp or rotifers.

There are 26 recipes for culture mediums - but the most common used are the L1,K and f/2 formulas. Guillard's f/2 formula (florida farms) version-Guillard & Ryther 1962, Guillard 1975 To 950 mL filtered seawater add: Quantity - Compound - Stock Solution - Molar Concentration in Final Medium 1 mL - NaNO3 - 75 g/L dH2O - 8.83 x 10-4 M 1 mL -NaH2PO4 · H2O - 5 g/L dH2O - 3.63 x 10-5 M 1 mL * -Na2SiO3 · 9H2O* - 30 g/L dH2O* - 1.07 x 10-4 M* 1 mL - f/2 trace metal solution 0.5 mL - f/2 vitamin solution If u are looking for a pure strain - the best & robust one will be Nannochlorpsis Oculata - cell size 2 microns. *Nannochlorpsis a unicellular microalgae, member of the Chromophyta phylum, class Eustigmatophyceae, with an average size of between 2-4 µm.

done

i don't have that much faith on UV, unless u run it through a bank of them (like coral farm does) - if u use a typical hobbyist type - its only in contact with the tube for seconds since most of the lengths are 6" to 12". but that's only my opinion Funny thing is - if you microwave your tank water 7 mins on high then use it to culture phyto..................cyano will grow. i think there are at least 10 ppl culturing rotifers here (or least that i know of) - there could be more. so its not hard to get a starter batch right here, because they are relatively easy to culture.

You will get better growth results and density if each tank runs on its own. so all u need is the air pump & 3 tanks. If connected - There will be contamination (not a if, but a when). rotifers or bbs or both will get into the phyto somehow. If phyto crashes it may affect the other 2 cultures below. And phyto does crash. Based on the assumption that the UV will nuke everything 100% before it reaches the phyto. and the filter below will need to employ micron filter screens 50 microns or smaller(to make it rotifer proof). The station will work - but for a short period before you encounter hiccups and cross contamination. There are a few station designs on the web but if u read the follow ups - most of them suffer crashes or contamination after a while. rgds Save money, run each culture on its own as a batch culture.

Cleaner fry won't feed on bbs untill they reach abt 4 weeks old. You should start on a phytoplankton diet (something with a higher DHA profile) untill you reach the 1st or 2nd week then add in live rotifers into the diet then move onto bbs after the 1st or 2nd month. If u keep phyto in the water- rotifers will feed on it & and enrich themselves while being stalked by the fry. The larvae culture container should be as clean as possible - just a container with a bubbling airline is good enough - change 30%-50% of the culture volume everyday or every other day with your main tank water . DO NOT USE NEW SALTWATER. Rotifers is your best bet, and easy to keep a live supply going. A few ppl here are culturing them, getting a starter culture from them to grow your own is not hard. Cleaner larvae settle out into mini shrimp at around 90-140 days(depending on the environment). They are not the easiest to culture and be prepared for huge die offs or failed cultures altogether - but they are able to produce a batch of larvae monthly for you to try again soon.

zooplex is in essence cyclopeze. although i think they use the freeze dried version which is why it stays on the open shelfs of LFS. don't think it makes a huge difference (cause it most probably stayed on the shelfs for mths anyway) but it doesn't hurt.

found my answer. its somewhere in the first link chanbi posted. >>>> "How zeovit work,originaly posted by G.Alexander " It contains 4 essentials: 1. Zeolite 2. Bacteria 3. Bacteria food 4. Active Carbon The filter material contains a mix of four different zeolite – each one with different attributes. It is be run in a filter with a flow rat of about 2000 liters per hour. 1 Liter is used for 400 liters. This material has to by changed every 8 – 10 weeks. The bacteria help to reduce nutrients and are absorbed by the SPS. The bacteria and the food are only given in the first 14 days after adding new zeolite. The bacteria food helps to increase the bacteria and is absorbed by the SPS too. The food contains many elements. The given quantity of bacteria is 1 – 2 drops per 100 liters – bacteria food by 1 – 2 drops per 200 liters. In addition 1 liter of a high class activated carbon is ran in the filter bypass with a quantity of 1 liter per 1000 liters. The carbon has to be changed every 4 weeks. Trace elements – Iodine – Strontium is given by 2 – 5 % from the recommended quantity. Dosing these elements is different in every tank running this method and you have to become a feeling for the given quantity. All these elements boost the addition of zooxanthallae so be careful with the quantity to keep the SPS tissue light and the colors bright. If you run the tank with low nutrient levels it is necessary to bring other parameters in the right ratio. What I mean is that the measurable parameters should by run in the following examples: Calcium 380 – 400 mg Magnesium 1300 – 1350 mg KH 6 – 7 I only can advice you not to take any zeolite. Many people I know did this mistake and they have lost all their SPS because the used material had other attributes than the mixture of the zeovit method. This time there are nearly 1200 different zeolith with different attributes so it is not simple to find the right material without killing the SPS."<<<<<<

yup, but u grow algae on a mesh which u scrape/harvest often...along with whatever is growing there. i think ATS(algae turf scrubbers) are rarely used nowadays. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

but Refugium & Algae Scrubber is mixed up. One is a refuge for organisms to reproduce in peace while the other is purely for nutrient export. A refugium has little export capabilities in nutrient uptake. (it does but very small). You can't expect zero NO3 from adding a 1ft refugium to a 4ft/5ft/6ft tank, especially if original levels are in excess of 20ppm. & a lot of ppl like to use algae that go sexual..& release everything back into the system. its like comparing apples & watermelon.

http://www.captiveoceans.com/ US version. In english but still doesn't go into the finer details of how & why.

It comes in a 180ml bottle for $10. Its harvested off the coast of phillipines with a 100micron net towed from a boat. the colours of the content changes with the seasons (& ocean zooplankton content) so contents may look different according to batch. small anthias will feed on it, so will newly arrived purple queens. You can feed in anyway u deem fit , not too much,not too often. it comes frozen & u can keep it in the fridge and use it by the capful (but don't keep it too long) or once defrosted when u get home pour into small cubes(old hikari packs) & freeze, then feed by cubes. There's no additives or preservatives ,just zoo & seawater. mellow- they were both, once alive but now frozen.

Got a Resun CL650(1/4hp) to sell $350. will throw in an atman pump 2000L/hr free if you need it. pls know how a Resun sounds and works, its a old model. can cool my 500ltrs from 28c to 25c in 2hr 15mins. collection Upper Bukit Timah(near bukit panjang/bukit batok) just drop me a pm

serial no. has a 2002 at the end & by the sound of it,old model . its on the balcony so noise is not a huge problem. what matters to me is that it keeps ###### power by coming on when its not needed. Nope, if set at 25c it chills to 25.5c, 26c=chill to 26.5c. But the probe reads the water + 2c(28c) in a matter of 10-15mins then it kicks in again (all the while temp reads 26.7c both in tank & sump) any way to calibrate temp?

Does anybody have a manual for a CL650 ? or know how to calibrated the temp settings. chiller shows 28c while tank is at 26.4c (monitored by 3 thermometers-2 in tank & 1 in sump). it kicks in & bring down by 0.2c within 15mins. till it reads 26c then within another 10 mins reads 28c & starts again.(while tank is still at 26....and keeps going down ) sump water also reads 26c. chiller set to kick in at 28c so now it comes on very frequently. flow setup up from sump to main tank.

up to you if you still want to use it then keep it frozen and cut a small chunk to feed the tank. Use a little less than your usual live amount due to the ruptured cells and 99.99% of it being dead matter. so try not to overfeed. The Do not freeze caution is because its meant to be a 'Live' product - and thus there is no anti freeze agent or chemical in it to stop the algae cell wall from being ruptured by the ice crystals forming when water freezes.

moving this out of product reviews. Product review guidelines

moving this out of product reviews. Product review guidelines

moving this out of product reviews. Product review guidelines

moving this out of product reviews. Product review guidelines

moving this out of product reviews. Product review guidelines

moving this out of product reviews. Product review guidelines

moving this out of product reviews.