newdamsel

Working condition... $30 bucks, any takers?

Hi, I'm interested, but your price is slightly steep for a 2nd hand. Do PM me if willing to neg. thanks

Your original anemone is one that is already bleached.... now under better conditions, its gaining back its zoos to produce food when its under light... if i'm not wrong the present colour should be its original color... bleaching will make it lose colour and turn white... to tell if your anemone is not doing well, is to see how much and how often it opens.. if it is always closed up or shriveled up... it is unhappy about its environment... 2cts

Dear bro, you can safely add calcium additives to perk up calcium values... if kh isnt more than 16 dkh,.. let it subside by itself.. more important is your pH level... cheers

IMO, corals like anemone, hammer lps, prefers meaty food like small pieces of prawn meat or fish meat. Dosing live phyto is more for the filter feeding inverterbrates like tube worm, coco worm, sea fan and sponges, hence dosing phyto for other corals isnt gonna be useful. Dosing live phyto seems as if it wun pollute waters, but unless u have a filterless system, the live phyto would be trapped in your wool, or coral chips or bioballs and die there causing unnecessary built up of nutrients... 2 cts..

mine runs like 3 times a day for 15mins each time... but i maintain my 2 ft tank with a 1/4HP at 28deg C with a DIY temperature controller with external probe to get more exact readings. Used to be running 5mins every 1 hour, but the controller did helped.. but in your case, your chiller could be too small for ya tank..

To acclimitize snails, the easiest way is to ensure that they stick at the edge of the water on the glass. A quarter in water, three quarter out of water. Let them slowly crawl into the tank.. who else but themselves knows the rate of acclimitizing them??... 2 cents..

Every three weeks 30% water change and drip kalk everyday...

Very agree

HI trevy, you do not add calcium base on gram per liter but base on your tanks needs.... instructions could be terribly wrong here from both the manufacturer and the shop. Let me give you an analogy... If you see a loaf of bread, that has instructions as follows "Eat 5 pieces of bread for a 50kg human", Do you still eat 5 when you are already very full? Maybe 1 piece would do right? Similarly, do you still eat 5 when you are extremely hungry? Perhaps you wanna take more than 5 right? So what I'm trying to say here is that, you need to measure how much calcium are there in your tank in order to know how much to add. Too little calcium, perhaps 5g would not be enough and corals might still wither away. However, if your tank already have alot of calcium, 5g might give your tank an early xmas (snowstorm). Hope you get what i mean cheers

Oops.. sorry Onghm.. i think i got mistaken.. its not reef builder but the synthetic salt mixtures by seachem that has artificially high boron contents. http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/19...s/1/default.asp However according to advance aquarist, its Kent marine thats incorporating high amounts of borates into their additives. To save trouble, i have cut and paste the paragraph by Advanced Aquarist written by RANDY HOLMES-FARLEY, here. "Boron in Alkalinity Supplements Some brands of alkalinity supplements or “buffers” are claimed to contain added boron (such as Marine Aquarium Buffer, Pro●Buffer dKH, and Superbuffer dKH made by Kent), while others do not (such as Reef Builder, Reef Buffer, and Reef Carbonate made by Seachem). Unfortunately, those that contain boron do not indicate how much, either on the bottle, or when the manufacturer is directly asked. The only statement made is that it is an “important contribution.” Consequently, it is not apparent, without lab testing, whether the amounts of boron present are large enough to be useful. It is also not apparent whether the amounts present might be high enough to invoke some of the undesirable effects of boron that are described below." Tanzy, indeed boron addition might be good for stabilizing the pH for the tank, but however accumulation of boron over time can cause problems. For your comments "Elevated Boron: Toxicity At boron levels above that present in natural seawater, as is supplied in some artificial salt mixes and as may develop from overuse of boron supplements, boron begins to exert undesirable toxicity on a number of organisms. The studies on marine organisms are not wide ranging, so one must be careful in how to interpret levels above natural seawater since tests have not been run on most of the organisms that we keep. In general, marine organisms (invertebrates and fish) are seemingly more prone to experience toxicity from boron than are freshwater species. The marine isopod Limnoria lignorum has a 24-hour LC50 (that is, the concentration at which 50% die in 24 hours) of only 2.6 mM (28 ppm boron). That is only about 6 times the concentration in natural seawater (and is BELOW the concentration in Seachem salt mix!). Similarly, the dab, Limanda limanda (a North Sea Fish), has a 96-hour LC50 of 6.8 mM (74 ppm boron)." "Elevated Boron: Confounding Interpretation of Alkalinity Tests One additional complication that comes from substantially elevated borate is the confounding of the interpretation of alkalinity tests. When reef aquarists are concerned about alkalinity, they are almost invariably concerned with the alkalinity that comes from bicarbonate and carbonate, and it is largely used as a surrogate measure of bicarbonate, which is necessary for calcification. Nearly all hobby test kits measure alkalinity with a single titration that provides total alkalinity, which is the sum of bicarbonate, carbonate, and borate alkalinity. When the levels of boron are similar to natural levels, then the contribution of borate to that test is minimal, and is generally safely ignored in guidelines for alkalinity (for example, keeping a reef tank at 2.5-4 meq/L total alkalinity). However, if the boron level is substantially above natural levels, as it is in the Seachem salt mix with 12x normal levels, borate can actually begin to dominate such tests, 19 and makes knowing the real bicarbonate and carbonate alkalinity much more difficult. Seachem sells a special borate alkalinity test kit to try to disentangle these effects, but that is only really necessary with tank water that contains greatly elevated boron levels." I do not know whether this boron thing is an exaggerated problem or not, but since randy has expressed his concern think I'll just try my best to avoid if anyway possible man...

As KH is a general measure of TOTAL ALKALINITY, sometimes we have to ask ourselves, what are we adding to increase the dKH value. We desire to have a high dKH value achieved via addition of bicarb and carb. Its this two components that we are mainly interested in, as they help in the coral growth. If i'm not wrong, seachem has included a rather high dosage of borates to prop up the dKH values, as a very small amount of this chemical can increase dKH values considerably.

This is something too powerful for my tank... Great for those who needs coralline to seed your tank... EDEN 600liters per hour rotating head wave maker... going at $20

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