Cookiemunster

guys actually i find the eheim 1260 very weak....I was using 1262 and found it unacceptable. Too weak already. Mine is a 4ft tank. Flow rate in sump was very slow. I am wondering about the Resun MD 55. Any one using? Is it very noisy? The piping method would have to be the same. Riot I believe the potential hazard is only when there is airlock....ie during poweroff (power failure), air gets sucked into the pump from the top during reverse flow. Once theres air in the hose between the hose in the tank and the pump suction point, the syphon will break and the pump will be grinding air. I only worry it will tend to overheat. Hence its always dangerous to set it up this way. However there is a solution and that is to use a antiflowback valve. It costs about $40 for a 1inch size. This will prevent backflow of air into the pump and cut the syphon during any power failure. These valves can be easily obtained from Hai Cheong plastics. Place the valve between the pump output to the top tank....anywhere inbetween will do.

Bro your prices are really cheap. Good sale. I fully agree plankton is good for the tank. However, please be aware that seahorse or pipefish or any kind of fish do not feed on plankton. Even if they do, they drink it by accident but do not purposely ingest it. Plankton is only 4 to 25 microns. Its smaller than the leg hair of a brine shrimp. The plankton they feed on which you read from books is Zooplankton. Its not phytoplankton. They are very different.

Actually in my opinion due to the small amount of water volume in a 2ft, it is extremely important to not overdose on CO2 from a calcium reactor. Hence going for a small calcium reactor although is more than enough for adding calcium but the risk of Ph drop is too great for the tank to handle. Instead, a bigger reactor (holding at least 3Kg of media) is needed but a really low bubble count should be used instead. Something like 1 bubble per 15 to 20 seconds would be more than enough. I agree with weisoon about Deltec products. Even their venturi is moulded and cannot be machined due to a special part in their design.

I have seen them in my Squamosa too. They dun seem to harm it and instead can help to remove any debri trapped inside. These are symbiotic shrimps so theres no harm. You only need to panic when you see chunks of clam flesh missing every day. hahaha

What kind of water level sensor do you need? Float switches can be found at Sim Lim Tower.

Congrats Dan, somehow I am not surprised at all you were nominated. Great tank. Keep up the great work. Cheers

Thanks DID. Really appreciate your feedback and review. I'm glad you like your chiller. Thanks for your support. Cheers

1. Melvyn Tan (SengKang East Way 122A - near Bakau Stn) 2. Roidan (SengKang/Tampines) 3. Tigger (Rivervale Dr 122D) 4. tahir69 (SengKang) 5. Alanseah (Anchorvale RD) 6. Tanggy (Compassvale) 7. Zero Oxygen (Hougang) 8. Hammy (Rivervale Drive 195 - beside Rivervale Mall) 9. Sunny (Rivervale Crescent) 10.trevally (Compassvale) 11.hkching - (Anchorvale Rd - facing LRT Depot) 12.ah^siao - (Compassvale Road) 13.acroporidae - (Compassvale Lane) 14.Blacknails - (Compassvale Walk) 15.Nicholasloh - (Rivervale Crescent 183C) 16.Chris21 - (Compassvale - near rivervale mall) 17. Cookiemunster (Fernvale Rd)

Price reduce to $30. Anyone interested?

1 bulb sold Left with 1 more bulb. $35.

Hi I've got a oceanfree fan (4 fans type) for sale. Bought at $65 from petmart. Asking $40. In good condition without salt stains. Please pm me if interested. Self collect at sengkang. Cheers

Hi all, I'm selling the above for $35 each. Or both for $60. Self collect at sengkang. They are as good as new cos I only used them for 3 months. Kindly pm me. Cheers

If by the 5 day you do not see it turning more yellowish or darker, and instead its clear, it means your culture has crashed. Its very very hard to start with a culture dish. It greatly depends on where you bought your dish and how they store it.

hahahaha bro looking great man!!! Will drop by soon to help you out. Cheers and well done.

Oh my god. you've gotta be the youngest DIYer in the forum. hahahaha

No problem bro. I am not a DIY expert. There are many here more experienced than me but just choose not to comment. hahaha I would advice you to use a actual proper rated casing. These can be purchased from any lighting shop which sells MH. I personally recommend Victron. Those ceiling types you mentioned are ok but you need to cover the back part properly to prevent accidental exposure to the live wires. a few pointers: 1) Never use any kind of plastic casing or support 2) Use thick wires as the wattage is very HIGH 3) Position the wires carefully as they can melt under the heat and even burn 4) Use wood only as a support but never as a casing and never use chip board as these are highly flammable. The temp of a 250W mh is about 300 to 400 degrees. Check this out http://aquarium.union.rpi.edu/rpi.html

There is no danger. But the chances are your bulb life will be reduced. And the T5 will not be as bright as a set which uses the correct eballast to run it. A good eballast built for T5 is the OSRAM Quicktronic QT-FQ. Read the following for more information about quictronic ballasts. Fibel_Quicktronic_E.pdf

I really do not recommend you use any kind of PL casing to modify. There is absolutely no guarantee it will not catch fire due to extreme heat of the MH bulb. Even the MH casings are rated according to the wattage....ie a 150W MH casing cannot take the heat of a 250W bulb. Hence its really a dangerous risk to take.

Wedgee, please..... selling TUBBY and KR is not my main job. I certainly do not rely on it for a living. The amount of money I make from it is too insignificant for me to feel threatened by anyone. I was talking with respects to DIYing. I only commented because Ah Wa said float switches are not as good as probes. I already told him the reasons privately because I do not want to spoil his sales. I think I was already very gentlemanly in this. Perhaps you have some hidden agenda against me? Did I do anything wrong to you? I even know of people who bought my TUBBY and reversed engineered it and duplicated my TUBBY to the exact detail and selling it in the forum with their own sticker and name. Yet I never voiced out publicly although I know his name and facts. What Ah Wa does has totally no relation to me and certainly does not affect me in any way. I have nothing against Ah wa but if you guys feel commenting on basic DIY facts as not graceful then I shall keep quiet and not contribute anymore ideas or facts. At least not in this thread. In fact I've already taken it out and settled it privately via pm with Ah Wa, I do not understand why you are raking things up and pouring oil in. Signing out.

Yes I understand what you mean. But its certainly the feeling of accomplishment. Its a great DIY. Well done. Can appreciate all the machining and tubing parts you had to source. Not easy.

Wow excellent design. Well done. I was contemplating to build one too but never had the time. Why don't you try using a stepper motor. The control would be easier and much more precise. It looks great anyway. Good job!

erhm bro actually I got some replies to your answers but I think I better pm you instead. Not so nice for me to hijack your sales. Cheers

Not all tanks will consume calcium or kh fast. Only tanks with alot of coralline algae, clams, sps or hard corals will use up calcium very fast. If you are in one of these categories, then perhaps you might want to check magnesium levels. Low levels inhibit calcium absorbtion. Can also double check with other test kits. Kh doesn't increase your calcium levels. Its separate yet related. Kh helps to balance your ph so it doesn't swing during lights on and off and allows calcium to be absorbed by the corals. However too high a kh, above 12, and calcium will snow.....ie precipitate. By the way kalk is not used to raise calcium significantly. Its only used to maintain the cal and dkh levels by providing free ions. It is also good to dose kalk to precipitate phosphates and raise ph.

Nonetheless bro, its a great effort. At least you put in the effort to build something yourself. That in itself is admirable. Great job and I'm sure if you continue to try, you will likely get some really good results. Cheers

ervine a deflection cup is important. Otherwise the foam will escape out through the air vents. This will create a mess.