zephyros

all book reserved. thanks.

Dig out some more books (used) The Reef Aquarium vol2 hard cover) by Charles Delbeek & Julian Sprung $50 Aquarium Corals selection, husbandry, natural history. by Eric Borneman (hardcover) $50 The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert Fenner $10 Invertebrates A Quick Reference Guide by Julian Sprung hardcover $15 Corals A Quick Reference Guide by Julian Sprung hardcover $15 Marine Fishes A PocketExpert Guide $5 Take all at $120 Self collect at punngol. pls pm me Thanks

All books currently reserved. thanks.

Hi Had left the hobby long ago. Recently found these books while house cleaning Algae A problem solver guide by Julian Sprung $5 Marine Invertebrates by Ronald L. Shame $5 The reef aquarium vol 1 (hard cover) by Charles Delbeek & Julian Sprung $50 The new marine aquarium by Michael S. Palette $15 Take all for $60 Collect at punggol. Interested can PM me. Cheers

frens, Have a handful of chaeto to give away. really only one handful, so dun expect too much. self collect at punggol 21. can sms me at 91865021 or drop me a PM to arrange. cheers zephyros

do avoid the Mandarin fish until your tank is mature

bro, talk to Henry from Marine Life. He brought in a all-ready-to-go nano setup from Italy (i believe) which is pretty impressive. He had a ready setup in his shop. u can drop by to take a look cheers

- pepermint shrimp also an alternative - manually removing them, get a dripper and you can suck them into the glass tube. try not to remove by pincer as broken parts will grow into new nudi after nights off for sometime (1/2 hr), turn on the lights and start the hunt. repeat for a couple of nights happy hunting !

if you subscribe to those security system, one of the function is that they will call you when their machine got power off, indirectly stating that there is a power failure/trip.

1) Have many bottles of "iced" water in fridge ready 2) standby battery power pumps power failure is not the thing that kills, it is not knowing that there is a power failure that kills how to be alerted when there is a power failure? cheers

i found that those big size polyps zoa can last very long. Mine with me for 3-4years and the colony is expanding but for those smaller size polyps zoa (most of the time this zoas have richer color), they just melt away after sometime.

for the yellow (canary) wrasse, becareful of jumpers you can try Logul's solution (concentrated iodine). administer outside tank. not in tank. for diseased polyps, you can drip directly onto them.

3 times 1) RTA got stuck into power head. Discover early. No nuke, just the unforgetable tasks to remove the RTA from the powerhead 2) Main return pump down. Discover early. Lucky got standby pump. 3) Chiller pump went down. Temperature shot up to 30+ with MH on. Saw corals not opening as they should. Quickly off all lights, put in standby bottles of ice and again, have standby pump. Took many hrs to bring temperature. Hammer melted off. But my worst fear is that all this happen and I'm NOT home

bro, see the article in Aug2009 Advanced Aquarist on the Plenums. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/8/beginner cheers

not only the tube, the reflective hood covering the tube also plays a part in how much "extra" light it can deflect into the water. cheers

For this tank size, 1 pair of same clown is all you can take. surface skimmer is NOT a skimmer, you can customise a either internal overflow or external overflow box and this will give you the surface skimming. Design your overflow such that it takes water from the bottom of the tank as well (via pressure). Then put the protein skimmer intake pump in the overflow. This is one way to setup. - increase water volume and thus stability of the system as a whole. - place to put your equipement, eg skimmer, FR etc - RO is to remove metals from the tap water for before performing water change. If you are using sea water or distilled water, then you do not need a RO or DI unit. But if you need to go for one, go for a DI rather than a RO. DI does abt the same thing as RO (not going into details). They are both use to remove the metals in your tap water before doing water change. Even with a RO/DI unit, you may still need a FR to remove phosphrous cheers

bro fishiee had provided one way to start things. Another way will be 1) decide the tank size 2) decide the live stock you want to keep, eg wat coral (SPS,LPS,softie), fish etc 3) decide the equipement that you need to keep your LS happy happy reefing

not sure how many ppl out there is a believer of Vit C and garlic, but from day 1 of reefing, I soak henry's frozen with 2 drops of vit C and garlic on each serving ... so far no fish die of "illness" issue such as ich or spot

you can try to add garlic to your food, sometimes it does help to get the fish attention

You have PM

even for quick start, do proper cycling and add the LS slowly, esp for a small set up. patience is the key bro

ic ic

Hi bros, are you using a single direction valve at the output to prevent the water in the denitrator from flowing back to sump when there is a power trip? but in the first place, does it matters if the water in the denitrator flow back into the sump (via the pump)??? cheers

1 of my female blue-I might ###### change soon ... depends whether the current alpha male can suppress her transformation a not

its ok for their tip to turn black. what u need to take note of is the length of the 2nd (i think) dorsal fin. If the length is getting longer and longer, then there is a chance that it might ###### change to a male blue eye