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Everything posted by RX_GAN

  1. basically u need to check pH, kH and SG for the most basic stuffs first. SG, pH and kH must be stable. next more important parameters are nitrite and ammonia... must be best at 0ppm becos fish only tank is very sensitive to these two.. it can caused a downfall in ur system if not control and sensitive fishes will say bye bye to u... then next is nitrate and phos.... they are very important too even that some said fish-only tank doesn't need to bother.. but the true fact that they are very important... in environmental problem...fertilisers which are dump into the river caused a growth of algae in the river...it caused competition in the river, and the ecosystem is affected...causing pollution and death of fishes... same as in ur tank, nitrate will caused competition of oxygen and others..same as PO4. and high nitrate and PO4 will affect the acclimation of new stock in ur tank. have try many experiments and fishes acclimate better with good water parameters, low nitrate and PO4. as for mg, calcium and strontium...even thou they are only utilised by corals...even that u dun need to test for them in a fish-only tank...u need to keep a mini. level in a fish-only tank...try dosing seachem advantage calcium. cos it contains cal. mag and strontium..it's for ur rocks more than ur fishes.... and as for iodine/iodide...it's necessary for u to dose for shrimps...but same as fishes.. lack of iodine/iodide caused death due to lack of nurtitions... it happened to humans too...lack of iodine is a common factor of fish's death. and when they died of that, u wun even know.
  2. no addictives ?? that's like.... trace element is not enough... then pH is not a problem bro...dun think too much.. just add in buffer to ur topup water and should be alright... everything is fine bro... u can't expect much from seawater...
  3. 8 gosh...that's scary...how come u buy so many of them....:S hahaha..okay..i didn't buy 8. i bought two...both still surviving... but still don't encourage ppl to buy them. still studying some stuffs regarding them.
  4. ph at 8.0 is still okay..as long as u have ur KH constant at a good level, things will be fine. It will maintain ur pH. but ur Po4 level is funny..u using PO4 media...1mg ?? u mean 1mg/l ? 1mg and 1mg/l is very different... even thou we can jump to conclusion but we dun know waT test kit u are using... and ur mg level is too high...it will affect ur livestock , ur pH and kH. i believe ur mg level is too high but looking at ur cal. level. tihnk u are overdosing calcium and mg...some calcium product contains mg inside. so let's say u dose ur cal. level to 450 with continuous dosing of mg, that could have caused it and affected ur pH and kH. pH at 8.0 is still fine..but if u continue this regime, ur kH and pH will suffer and i assumed that's the result why u mention it's a falling pH problem in the first place. try this regime now : monday use seachem buffer. tuesday use pH buffer. wednesday rest thrusdays use seachem buffer friday use mag and calcium(not at the same time) sat rest sun pH buffer by little and not overdose for buffers. i believe this regime can help u to stabilise ur pH and kH back while lowering ur calcium and mg level. calcium is good to be high but if too much, ur kH and pH will suffer a drawback in long term. use this regime for a week only to stabilise things...or still not stabilises then continue for another week. and this time add in calcium and strontium instead. strontium will also be affect during this process. once everything stabilise go back to ur old regime but dun add in so much mg and cal or u will experience this again. or when u top up water, use seachem buffer in the topwater. that way things will be stabilise. my kH is always at 11 or 12 and that will maintain ur pH from sudden increase or drop. i dun know wat brand of products u using so can only give u a rough description and remedy for the situation. pH buffer is not needed actually cos carbonate hardness will buffer the pH to 8.3 for many products. so some products which claimed to be pH buffer is actually kH and pH buffer at the same time. good luck.
  5. aiyooooo... i tell u one best solution in the world. and one u can do it...no one else can. and this will solve all ur problem. call the person who sell u the tank and ask him... and since it's a second hand, that means that person has his own way of using that outflow which is specially constructed to his demand. and if u buy it thru a LFS, then ask them to do it for u. they should provide this kinda service for their customer. if not, we go burn down the shop...ops...joking here..hahah..joking only..hahaha..:S they wun tell u that hey, ur own problem...hahaha...if they do, then u come back to here. think u ask the previous owner and he will give u a good answer. hahaha.. dun waste money on another overflow box. the acrylic thingy is for ppl without a overflow. even without a hole drill, u can do it. let me tell u how. first u need a powerhead in ur sump.. from the outflow box in ur tank. u need a piping down to the sump. it can be a super super lousy powerhead as the powerhead is use as a aid in assisting the gravity. cos water need to travel from the bottom of the overflow box to the top of the tank and once at the top of the tank, gravity can then play it's role. so that powerhead is use to draw the water to the top of the tank. down at ur sump, tee-off the output. one to the powerhead and one to the sump.. hahaha...i think maybe i'm the only one crazy enough to come up with this. good luck. now u dun need to drill holes but jsut pay extra for the powerhead and electricity bills. the other output will work with gravity...so if ur return is 4000 and the powerhead is 2000, gravity will put in another 2000. and in case u ask why dun just use powerhead to draw it down ??? becos there is no perfect system in using manmade product. a 1000l/hr powerhead may function more or less and sometimes when things are stuck inside, the balance will be off and hahahahaha...game over.hahaha so thanks to Newton, we have this invention. *weird....no one realised it's newton who contributed to this. and if he patent the rights to the usage of gravity....hohohoho....he dun have to starve for one million year...hahhahaha..
  6. for the overflow, u need to build a pipe system down. it's using gravity to pump the water down. depends on how u do it, some may drill a hole in the tank. :S but it may not be necessary too. u can go to LFS and ask them abt it or hire someone from hardware shop to do it for u. :> as for UV, it's utilises for eliminating bacterias and pathnogens. I suggest a ozonizer with ORP will be better becos ORP is important to a reef tank. if u running a fish-only tank, UV will be more sufficient for u. UV is also utilised in freshwater tanks.
  7. this guy very desperate for purple tang..hahaha...someone pls kinda sell it to him. thanks.hahaha.
  8. it's not hardy and one of the hardiest fish to get it feeding. Ich magnet. hard to find and hard to keep. that's the challenge in it.
  9. Sad to say that ur cleaners are most likely to be died.it's becos that cleaner shrimps dun usually hide when compare to other shrimps. for ppl who have try them, cleaners are very daring and if they have already acclimate to ur tank, they will clean ur hand when u place ur hand in the tank. fire shrimps, peppermint are more likely to be cave dwellers. cleaners will venture out around the tank. the only time they will be hiding is during molting and that's during nighttime. did u acclimate properly ? did the shrimp landed properly when u add them ? did u do properly dipping procedure ? they are very sensitive to water parameter and is that anything wrong with ur parameters ? less likely is that they are eaten. good luck then.
  10. yup. u will need a chiller. go and search for the specs of it. the water capacity it can support. even that u are keeping a small tank, the higher the horse power the better becos that way u dun have to keep on firing the chiller. and tat means u spend more now, u save more in long term. and u need to take note of the return. wther it's enough for ur chiller. chiller, try to get it at average but not just nice. for the chemical filter, u need to change it over sometime. like 3 to 5 months once. activated carbon...some other stuffs are avail. they are important becos they removes substances which are harmless and can't be measured. thereby reducing ur need to change water. SPS requires super good quality of water to florish and grow...u need strong lighting. strong current is needed to removes all by-products and debris from the tank ensuring good water quality. and also good temperature is needed for all corals. SPS or LPS. becos high tmp. can caused coral bleaching...using a fan can caused huge water evaporation and having u to topup daily. that will be troublesome right ? ahahah... good luck then.
  11. water changes will be the best immediate solution. using phos. media like phosgaurd or rowaphos will be used to control the level. to reduce it, change ur water first. that's the priority and best solution. cos high phos will also indicate high nitrate. the source could be tapwater plus decomposition...or substrate.... some substrate can even produce copper into ur tank. for now, water changes can eliminate most of the problems. use seawater to change or else u can use salt mix. if using salt mix, use DI water or distilled water. if using distilled water, use an air pump overnight before changing becos distilledwater dun ahve much air in it.. good luck.
  12. haHAAH.thanks. any enquires just pm me or sms me at 81968903. cheers.
  13. pm u already. thanks. and thanks bro for the compliments. will keep on improving and updating.
  14. hahaha...cleaner shrimp will be better. fire shrimp tends to get lazy. :>
  15. it depends on wat kinda reef tank u gonna keep. if it's a SPS tank, then lighting not enough. if LPS, u dun need too strong circulation or turnover. Chiller is highly recommended for reef tank. for 2ft to be without sump is possible and tat depends on how u do it...without sump u must make sure that it's easy for u to do maintainence. for LR, dun get too much for them becos due to space constraints and when u buy corals, u can stack them up. or else at later stage, u wun have enough space for ur corals. good luck. u need to get chemical filter also.
  16. US kind of wrasse ? who selling ? the same person who sell us "cheap" US zoas ? hahaha...as long as u cannot get it to change diet or feeding... whether it's Sri Lanka, Indo, Aust or watever place, it's still gonna be the same. haha..if u wan bro, get a cleaner goby. it's nice and does the same job. if i'm not wrong, it's definitely more expensive. not sure abt the price.
  17. thanks. really sorry abt that. will leave it like that for now. need to do some other stuffs. so will stop for one or two weeks. cannot keep on reefing 24/7 la.hahaahaha...still have other things to do. if anyone have any questions, i will try my best to answer. cheers. have a nice day. i wanna keep the front tank view secretive for now...cos i will be adding in corals every now and then until i have complete the theme. BOOM...then u will see the finalised picture. maybe will continue to show picture of corals i get to share with everyone. maybe can exchange frag or watsoever la...hahaha.
  18. not much corals to show becoe still constructing at the moment. the theme is gonna be "LPS in Florida". coral list right now: -goniopora -red zoas -yellow suns -orange suns -pink suns -slipper coral -Octo coral -fox coral -green star polyps -button polyps -green mushroom -brown mushroom -ricordea yuma -white bubbles that's all...adding in one hammer soon. and also looking for suns corals...wanna make the whole tank full of suns and florida..with branching lps like hammer, fox, octo...still looking for torch(small),galaxy, trumpet, candy cane, elegance and frogspawn. and getting more suns and green suns...did i miss anything out ? that's my theme. at first it was a shrimps tank: got 2 peppermint, 4 cleaner shrimps, 1 saron, 1 fire and 1 boxer looking to get camel, ###### and maybe glass shrimps to complete the collection.
  19. this is my refugium with another tank inside. canister filter is right behind this tank. the biohouse and stuffs are bury inside so u cannot see them in the pic.. i'm adding another 10kg of sand to the DSB soon. recently i lost 2 powerhead becos it can't stand the weight of the rocks on it... so must get another one before anything happened to DSB. and those are organ pipe skeletons... like the red color so kept them in refugium..
  20. this is the box...full of cottom wool.water flows down from the main tank to here.
  21. this is the water-leveling tube...works just like an overflow box. but i dun have an overflow box in my tank... it's located at the bottom...DIY style
  22. peace.. no offense.just stating my stand at the start. sorry if i do sound abit harsh..sorry abt that. sorry to hammy bro if i sound harsh abt his remark. paiseh.
  23. water change is the solution for super high nitrate. other stuffs like filter medium or no3 lock should be use only after water change to CONTROL the level. it's cheaper to do water changes than using other method. good luck.
  24. regarding feeding, this is not a sales thread so i dun wanna make this thread commerciallised too. to keep the parameters at check and feeding at the same time is my answer to the question. full dot to here. pls dun highlight anything commercial here or my products here becos JUST GIMME A BREAk...:S this is a small corner for me to chill out and reef for leisure only. anything business-related pls pm me or speak in the other thread... j ust wanna take a break here.that's why i nv mention anything abt my products here. And the picture is taken before the release of X-factor too. I don't use it in my main tank during the experimental stage of it until it's finally done.:> if everything is to be commercialised, i wun post a pic with algae to hurt my own product and when i post that picture, the coral in the picture was the main focus there. Really sad to see the first reply to be on my product based on some assumptions. feeding brineshrimp, overfeeding pellets, too much of bioload and other stuffs can also caused algae bloom so it's not fair to me when the finger is pointing at my product. and i dun wanna go into details to explain my product cos it's not a sales thread here. I dun answer questions and stuffs in a commercialised manner in all of the thread and dun employ other nicks for separating commercial and recreational issue cos i dun find it necessary. u wun find me promoting it any other threads too except my own designated thread. I believed that i'm already professional enough by doing so. So i hope that anything commercialised can be posted in that thread or pm me abt it. All along my help to others have been on the terms of fellow reefer not as a salesperson. those who know and deal with me will know abt that. When it's business, it's business and right now it's recreation and leisure here. I'm trying my best here to help newbies and to share my stuffs and experience with everyone so pls gimme a break. THANKS. I will truely appreciate that if u guys can understnad as I have already tried my best in explaining. Hope that everyone can understand here. :> anyone who has any questions, i will be more than willing to help as a fellow reefer contributing to part of SRC community. I am also willing to help anyone out selflessly. It's not business-related so even if u dun buy anything from me, i will still be willing to help u. I hope everyone can understand how i'm feeling and my passion in this hobby. THANKS. PS just wanna make my stand clear right from the start.
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