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My Slice of Nature (Part 3)


SubzeroLT

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Yes, Kalk can be used to maintain Ca/KH. But kalk alone won't be able to keep up. Hence a CR is still needed.
For me, the primary reason is to help push up pH as its running quite low in my tank.


Oh I see

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3 hours ago, Sherilyn91 said:

Cool diy on the stirrer!


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2 hours ago, Darren Sim said:

Really amazing diy skills you have.


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Thanks.

Many youtube videos on this out there. Just followed the instructions there.

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On 10/23/2016 at 7:22 PM, SubzeroLT said:

Cycling still in progress.

In the meantime, finished up a couple of things for the tank

 

Float switch in display tank in the unlikely event the overflow drains are blocked. Float switch will be hooked to the Apex Neptune to cut off the return pump if ncessary.

PA230067.jpg

 

 

Kalkwasser stirrer

- Some parts for it 

PA230061.jpg

 

- Decided to build a box with scrap pieces of acrylic instead of using those PVC boxes. This enabled customization to have a clear top to see what's going on inside.

PA230063.jpg

 

- Finished. Pardon the (acrylic) dust

PA230064.jpg

 

The plan is to stir the kalk a couple of minutes before the ATO is turned on.

Fresh ATO water will then be channeled through the kalk reactor before going to sump

 

The stir bar used

The parts like fan and controller come together with the reactor?

 

 

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14 hours ago, sharonleong said:

The parts like fan and controller come together with the reactor?

Since i'm not using biopellet anymore, the FR30 fluidized reactor is repurposed for stirring kalk

Fan is salvaged from my old printer.

Controller is a PWM speed controller. Available on Ebay.

 

14 hours ago, Zhi Long Oh said:

Wow.. impressive DIY

Thanks.

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Nice diy.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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On 10/26/2016 at 11:51 PM, ReDDeviLs said:

woah bro, looks awesome!

 

On 10/27/2016 at 8:47 AM, he said:

Nice diy. It will save alot of money instead if getting a new one
 

Need to save up for other things that cannot DIY

 

On 10/27/2016 at 1:23 PM, Limited said:

Looks good man
 

 

On 10/27/2016 at 2:21 PM, Clamence said:

Very nice tank bro
 

 

On 10/27/2016 at 4:51 PM, Admiraltian said:

Nice diy.

Thanks all.

 

Some updates.

Was looking for a weir / overflow comb to when a fellow reefer recommended this. "UltraFlow Weir comb" by DD. Quite an innovative design.

PA290075.jpg

  • Most overflows are quite small and can handle only limited volume of water flowing past the comb else the water level rises dangerously close to the rim of the tank. This has slots at the bottom & can handle 30-50% more flow. Great for going for higher tank turnover rates. 
  • It comes with a  holder & easy to retrofit/slip-on neatly onto current overflow panels.
  • https://www.n30.com.sg/others/641-d-d-ultraflow-weir-comb.html#.WBU98_l95aQ

PA300120.jpg

 

I'm using it for the sump as well to prevent fishes or chaeto from flowing from the refugium to the return pump section.

PA290080.jpg

PA290082.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Too many power adapter. No space :angry:

Made a simple junction box for the lights power adapter to be hung behind the tank (protected by splash guard). Eliminates the bulky power extension chord & plugs.

PA270069.jpg

 

 

Simple junction box made with 25A rated cables going in. Each structure can accommodate 3 adapters. 

Power adapter supported with a small screw to put less stress on the cable tie.

Since its vertically mounted without a drip loop, I added Permatex gasket sealant around the cable glands in case water does drip down.

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-1-sealant/

 

PA270071.jpg

 

 

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Got a Nyos 220 skimmer after reading good reviews about it.

1st impressions - very well built.

PA290089.jpg

 

PA290098.jpg

With transparent motor cover, the needle wheel is visible. Good for checking cleanliness or if small bits of stuff gets stuck on it (snail shell, stones) that will affect performance.

 

Another nice thing is that it can be dismantled entirely for easy cleaning.

PA290088.jpg

 

Needs to sit in about 21cm of water or around the "Q" of the Quantum sticker on the side

PA290111.jpg

 

Quite happy with the fine foam.

 

 

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Got the 200gpd RO membrane from Madpetz recently. Mine was previously the 100gpd set up from 2 yrs back. It was a simple membrane change + add additional DI resin chamber.

 

Its odd that the clean water flow rate is higher than the waste water. I thought that at best its a 1:1 ratio.

 

Nevertheless, the TDS  reading after the membrane but before the DI resin reads 0TDS.

IMG_1538.jpg

 

Tank cycling complete. Now preparing for a major water change. 

PA310121.jpg

 

 

 

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On 10/30/2016 at 8:42 AM, SubzeroLT said:
Too many power adapter. No space :angry:
Made a simple junction box for the lights power adapter to be hung behind the tank (protected by splash guard). Eliminates the bulky power extension chord & plugs.
PA270069.jpg
 
 
Simple junction box made with 25A rated cables going in. Each structure can accommodate 3 adapters. 
Power adapter supported with a small screw to put less stress on the cable tie.
Since its vertically mounted without a drip loop, I added Permatex gasket sealant around the cable glands in case water does drip down.
https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-1-sealant/
 
PA270071.jpg
 

 


Mind sharing a photo of the box inside how it look like ? Always wanted a way to tidy the cable amd adaptor as well

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On 11/1/2016 at 3:23 PM, he said:

Mind sharing a photo of the box inside how it look like ? Always wanted a way to tidy the cable amd adaptor as well

Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
 

 

I didn't take a picture of mine when it was built but its similar to this image grabbed from google

gallery_58219_2963_33381 1.jpg

 

As for parts, these are the main items :

PB020133.jpg

- Cable gland. PG9 for the standard power adapter cable, PG11 for the neoprene cable if you are using that. 

- Cable block. This is supposed to be a better quality one made by Legrand.

- PVC box

 

 

 

 

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Lights finally installed. Managed to hide all the wires in the grooves of the aluminum profile.

IMG_1709.jpg

 

One of the electrical panels....work in progress 

IMG_1713.jpg

  • The power adapters are mounted on a raised wire mesh to allow airflow on both sides of the adapter. Keeping it cooler is always better.

 

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Very neat diy there.

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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