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Ashtrax's Marine tank.


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Hello guys,

Finally I kick start a marine tank.

Well here the specification:

Tank size: IM Fusion Nano 10 (Second hand)

Chiller: Low end thermostat chiller (Second tank)

Light set: IM 6 LED

  • LED Watts: 6 x 3 Watt
  • Color: 3 x 10K and 3 x 456nm
  • Current: 600mA
  • Single Light Cycle

Should just be enough for LPS. 

Pump: Comnpact 600

Skimmer: SkimMate Ghost Skimmer

Did i short of anything?

Preparation:

Spend 3 hours scrubbing it notice there two chips at the corner, well I wonder why didn't the seller informed my friend that there such defect. Before she buy it over, well newbie purchase didn't check properly, hope it would not affect the tank condition.

Continue:::

One beautiful rock from Iwarna, what do you you guys think of it? Where should i improve on.

Tentatively will just place it in the middle, since my lightset can only focus the middle of the tank. With this setup water will flow freely around the rock. No dead spot.

Check it out. Angle of the nozzle OK?

image1.JPG

 

Today went F&M to get some items.

  • image2.JPG

Edmund told me that the 3 Key princple was to maintain a marine tank was: Mag, CA and KH, (Phosphate and Nitrate) later part, too complex for me.

Well happily buy, AF products nice packaging plus for my tank size not too costly.

Since i'm use tap water for TOP of tank, recommend seachem Prime to remove heavy metals and Brightwell Aquatics 7 bacteria for cycling.

Than I realize something is amiss, MG,CA,KH this three trance elements, i can actually get it from the AF salt http://aquaforest.eu/en/product/reef-salt/

Below are the parameters.

Parameters of a salt are presented below:

Cl – 19000-19500 mg/l
Na – 10500-10600 mg/l
Mg – 1300-1380 mg/l
S – 840-890 mg/l
Ca – 410-440 mg/l
K – 380-400 mg/l
F – 1,2-1,3 mg/l
Fe – 0,08-0,09 mg/l
Sr – 7-9 mg/l
dKH – 7,4-8,2
pH – 7,8-8,2

 

 

Does it means that, every time i do a WC with AF reef salt, all these parameters will be replenish back into my tank?

If that so I do not even need to buy, AF Mg plus Ca plus and KH plus, now the headache part. I still need to buy test kit to measure Mg,Ca,KH before dosing.

Which way is more cost effective??? Just weekly water change with reef salt??? or do dosing?? 

Lastly i haven decided should I cycle with Tap water of Sea water? What your suggestion?

If tap water i have to purchase salt lo.

Let me know your valuable feedback thanks.

 

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Came a long way have been reefing since December 2016. When i decided to convert from 6ft arowana tank to a nano marine tank. Well all I would say it a lot more expensive to maintain a marine tank as

Hello guys, Finally I kick start a marine tank. Well here the specification: Tank size: IM Fusion Nano 10 (Second hand) Chiller: Low end thermostat chiller (Second tank) Light

For such a small tank no need to dose. Dosing is for people with large tanks and can't afford to do water changes large enough to replenish the elements.

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Welcome fellow IM 10G reefer, I have a 10G myself too.

nice rock from irwana, from the looks of it, am assuming it's dead rock meaning to say there's no dead or dying stuff in the rock. So what's going to happen when you cycle is you will be seeding the rock with bacteria(your bottle of mb7). This will create & stabilize the beneficial bacteria population which is essential for biofiltration in a reef tank. To cycle, you will need to do it with saltwater. Either NSW or mixed yourself is fine.

using prime with tap water is an option, however since you tank is small, can consider distilled water from NTUC. I use LIFE.

dosing the big three(alk, Ca, Mg) is not really required if your setup is mainly LPS, as mentioned above WC will be sufficient in replenishing them plus other elements. WC also play another important role in removing organics, excess nutrients, to prevent algae blooms & water quality issues in your tank.

if you intend to keep more SPS in your 10G in the future, dosing may become a need if their rate of utilization is faster than WC replenishment. & they don't like parameter swings so dosing is one way to keep the parameters stable.

hope this helps & enjoy the journey. You only get to setup a reef tank once, so enjoy the process & don't rush it. The next time you will get another chance to do so is when you upgrade :evil: kidding.. cheers!

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Welcome fellow IM 10G reefer, I have a 10G myself too.
nice rock from irwana, from the looks of it, am assuming it's dead rock meaning to say there's no dead or dying stuff in the rock. So what's going to happen when you cycle is you will be seeding the rock with bacteria(your bottle of mb7). This will create & stabilize the beneficial bacteria population which is essential for biofiltration in a reef tank. To cycle, you will need to do it with saltwater. Either NSW or mixed yourself is fine.
using prime with tap water is an option, however since you tank is small, can consider distilled water from NTUC. I use LIFE.
dosing the big three(alk, Ca, Mg) is not really required if your setup is mainly LPS, as mentioned above WC will be sufficient in replenishing them plus other elements. WC also play another important role in removing organics, excess nutrients, to prevent algae blooms & water quality issues in your tank.
if you intend to keep more SPS in your 10G in the future, dosing may become a need if their rate of utilization is faster than WC replenishment. & they don't like parameter swings so dosing is one way to keep the parameters stable.
hope this helps & enjoy the journey. You only get to setup a reef tank once, so enjoy the process & don't rush it. The next time you will get another chance to do so is when you upgrade :evil: kidding.. cheers!


Agree with everything except the you only get to setup once. Most reefer did setup more than once as either upgrade to bigger tank or setup another frag tank.


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3 hours ago, Patrick said:

Bro, just do weekly water change 20% would suffice.


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Sure 

1 hour ago, Junwei said:

For such a small tank no need to dose. Dosing is for people with large tanks and can't afford to do water changes large enough to replenish the elements.

Sure

1 hour ago, JMW said:

Welcome fellow IM 10G reefer, I have a 10G myself too.

nice rock from irwana, from the looks of it, am assuming it's dead rock meaning to say there's no dead or dying stuff in the rock. So what's going to happen when you cycle is you will be seeding the rock with bacteria(your bottle of mb7). This will create & stabilize the beneficial bacteria population which is essential for biofiltration in a reef tank. To cycle, you will need to do it with saltwater. Either NSW or mixed yourself is fine.

using prime with tap water is an option, however since you tank is small, can consider distilled water from NTUC. I use LIFE.

dosing the big three(alk, Ca, Mg) is not really required if your setup is mainly LPS, as mentioned above WC will be sufficient in replenishing them plus other elements. WC also play another important role in removing organics, excess nutrients, to prevent algae blooms & water quality issues in your tank.

if you intend to keep more SPS in your 10G in the future, dosing may become a need if their rate of utilization is faster than WC replenishment. & they don't like parameter swings so dosing is one way to keep the parameters stable.

hope this helps & enjoy the journey. You only get to setup a reef tank once, so enjoy the process & don't rush it. The next time you will get another chance to do so is when you upgrade :evil: kidding.. cheers!

Thanks for the compliment. Yes it definitely dead, today i'm planning for the seeding of MB7.

Need to get my above items exchange into salt, BTW what salt are you using? I wanted to try AF pro Sal :) 

When i Cycle i will use tap water after which will replace it by DI water. 

Sure taken note of your suggestion. Current light set do you think it sufficient for SPS?

 

Oh lastly any pic of your tank :)

 

39 minutes ago, yukok.lim08 said:

 


Agree with everything except the you only get to setup once. Most reefer did setup more than once as either upgrade to bigger tank or setup another frag tank. emoji48.pngemoji48.png


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Ha!! Now can shop for frag! if i ugrade it i can use my current tank as quarantine tank too.

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I'm using DD ocean salt mixed with LIFE water. There are some bros here using the AF salt.

my guess is the Skkye light might be able to keep some easier SPS? Suggest to only add SPS after your tank is stable tho 

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If u add sps u might need to add a wavemaker or two but then again it's optional if u feel ur current setup has enough flow.

Display Tank : 48" x 22" x 22" Bean Animal CTC overflow box design, custom built by Aquarium Iwarna.

Sump : 37" x 20" x 18" inspired by Royal Exclusiv Dream box & Trigger Systems Tideline Series sump designs, custom built by Aquarium Iwarna.

Lightings : Inled R80 x 3 with 2  x Illumagic Vitamini Super Actinic LED Striplight Bars.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Maxspect Jump MJ-GF4K, Jebao SLW-30M & SLW-20M Wave Pump.

Water Top Up: Reef Octopus ATO.

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Hello all more question.

 

Went back to F&M to get my (MAG,CAL,KH plus) exchange to 5kg AF Reef Salt, Hydrometer and 2 pack of C1 sand. Edmund awesome :)

Now i'm figuring out how to use my HYDROMETER, on the scale it stated blue zone was 1.020 to 1.023 is the idea Salinity level.

But i read up on Harlequinmania post.

 

 

 

Good water parameters to aim for in your saltwater reef tank setup:

  • Specific Gravity 1.023 - 1.025
  • Temperature 75 F to 80 F
  • Calcium 400 - 450 ppm
  • Alkalinity - 2.1 to 2.5 meq/L
  • Magnesium - 1200 - 1400 ppm
  • Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and Phosphate - 0 ppm
  • Iodine - 0.06 meq/L

It state Salinity level to be 1.023 to 1.025 :) which should i follow website or hydrometer.

HAha. let me know your input. So i can do adjustment to my tank :) this hydrometer got lag time have to do a few times to make sure my reading is right. Does anyone encounter this issue?

 

Check out my picture.

Hydrometer.JPG

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3 hours ago, Admiraltian said:

If u add sps u might need to add a wavemaker or two but then again it's optional if u feel ur current setup has enough flow.

Yea will be planning to add in a WM what model you recommend?

4 hours ago, JMW said:

I'm using DD ocean salt mixed with LIFE water. There are some bros here using the AF salt.

my guess is the Skkye light might be able to keep some easier SPS? Suggest to only add SPS after your tank is stable tho 

Noted I  will be patience.. Haha.. Now i'm getting a list of items since got space constrain have to plan properly..

5 hours ago, Patrick said:

U can start tank w natural seawater need not cycle. when water clears up can put a pair of clown fishes. Try to get from bros who have kept them for a few months higher chance of survival. Then slowly stock up over a few months. Remember to TOP up w distilled water due to evaporation.


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Ops i started with tap water :) and AF reef salt. To combat phosphate i will put in a bag of rowas in my IOS.

5 hours ago, Patrick said:

U may want to change nanomag to nano flipper cuz nanomag rust quickly. FnM has it. Change now save $.


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Oh dear I just got back already change what is needed, now then saw your message.

If i gonna request from him he sure gonna nag at me. 

5 hours ago, Patrick said:

Bro I'm using IM tank n same Iwarna aquaroche rock slightly different design good stuff.


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Oh you are using too what IM model? Yea can see your design of scape?

 

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7 minutes ago, Nooblenny said:

Good to know you got the exchange! 

Maybe can get a good refractometer, more accurate & consistent in the long run :)

Yea that right. 

May I know what your salinity level of your tank ?

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1.023-1.025 shd b ok for reef tank..my pico reef tank water is 1.024..my FOWLR tank water is 1.017..I m using a hydrometer too..I will usually test the LFS n reefer water to see if my hydrometer (more than 5yr old as its 2nd hand) ok anot..cheers n happy reefing :)

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Updated video: Kenyee FOWLR

http://m.youtube.com/my_videos

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30 minutes ago, yukok.lim08 said:

My hydrometer is having 0.07 different with refractrometer. compare lfs water salinity when get new livestock for acclimination is important .


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Compared is a must, especially for refractrometer as it can b calibrated..if calibrated wrongly, too much diff in SG will kill ur livestock..0.07 is too much a diff liao yea..so its your hydrometer beh chun or..haha :)

 

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Updated video: Kenyee FOWLR

http://m.youtube.com/my_videos

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Welcome to the club:lol:.

For your tank size, I think the Compact600 should provide sufficient flow.  If you want more flow, you could consider replacing with a bigger pump (ie. Compact1000) or if you choose to use wavemaker, maybe can consider RW-4 or MP-10.

I would seriously advise you to cycle your tank before adding any livestock.  IMO, dosing bacteria may help shorten the cycling process, but that doesn't mean it can replace the cycling process completely.  Adding any livestock to a tank too early, will only stress them, worst case kill them,....life loss, money loss.  Another scenario is if the fish develops ICH, then you will have worry on subsequent additions.  Have known reefers to give up the hobby when ICH proves too much to handle.

Whatever your decision, Happy Reefing:D

 

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On 12/11/2016 at 9:51 PM, Nooblenny said:

I keep mine at 1.025 

Thanks.. I will kept my at 1.026 that the nature salinity.

On 12/11/2016 at 7:29 PM, kenyee said:

1.023-1.025 shd b ok for reef tank..my pico reef tank water is 1.024..my FOWLR tank water is 1.017..I m using a hydrometer too..I will usually test the LFS n reefer water to see if my hydrometer (more than 5yr old as its 2nd hand) ok anot..cheers n happy reefing :)

I'm getting myself a refactormeter.

On 12/11/2016 at 7:10 PM, Kumar Katya Karthi said:

Nice tank bro

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Thanks, will try to improve

12 hours ago, DottyClown said:

Welcome to the club:lol:.

For your tank size, I think the Compact600 should provide sufficient flow.  If you want more flow, you could consider replacing with a bigger pump (ie. Compact1000) or if you choose to use wavemaker, maybe can consider RW-4 or MP-10.

I would seriously advise you to cycle your tank before adding any livestock.  IMO, dosing bacteria may help shorten the cycling process, but that doesn't mean it can replace the cycling process completely.  Adding any livestock to a tank too early, will only stress them, worst case kill them,....life loss, money loss.  Another scenario is if the fish develops ICH, then you will have worry on subsequent additions.  Have known reefers to give up the hobby when ICH proves too much to handle.

Whatever your decision, Happy Reefing:D

 

I may get a canister, for tunze brand which model should i go for.

 

Yes i'm taking things very slowly.... will monitor it :0 

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