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Update: -
Gotten 7 smallest chromis, unfortunately todate balance 2 left.

Someone out of good will, given me some Digitata 2 days back.

Actually intended to glue the frag only...

Only use 10% of the glue.

So..., re-scape the whole tank...

Now only about 20% of the glue left... frag are left movable, in case adjust is required...


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If you have shared the dimension and he insist it's doable, why dont return it back to him?
Should exposed all this unethical practices .


Specifications of the tank provided, had told him my tank is about 50 litres. He said ok for use in my tank...

His excuse was no refund, once sold...

Written to carousell, feedback was they sided the con-man...

🥺🥺🥺



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Had similar encounter before, the carousell team can only ban his account.

Sigh, i know how it must have felt. have to practice more cation when dealing as such platform.

Maybe his one of the user here?

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Had similar encounter before, the carousell team can only ban his account.
Sigh, i know how it must have felt. have to practice more cation when dealing as such platform.
Maybe his one of the user here?


The purpose of doing this is to alert all and not let anymore preys to be fallen into his trap like me...



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Look like is working fine... the foam seem to be ok not overflowing. If you can’t adjust the airflow then raise the skimmer higher! But I saw you say you shift to the max. So maybe is because the cause below.


Are you having bacteria bloom, tank look cloudy. Maybe can cause skimmer to create more foam. Once bacteria bloom over or when you skim the excess protein. It will work fine. Give it sometime to kick in maybe 1 week.

 

 

There's nothing to see here. 

But do check out my articles! https://www.sgreefclub.com/home/

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Look like is working fine... the foam seem to be ok not overflowing. If you can’t adjust the airflow then raise the skimmer higher! But I saw you say you shift to the max. So maybe is because the cause below.


Are you having bacteria bloom, tank look cloudy. Maybe can cause skimmer to create more foam. Once bacteria bloom over or when you skim the excess protein. It will work fine. Give it sometime to kick in maybe 1 week.


...

Great to hear from you senior...,

The water is clear..., I fit in the skimmer twice after I did a water change.

First time maybe I fit it too low.

After advice from fellow Reefer to adjust the height. I push the height of the skimmer till it touches the max. With the air adjustment to the least.



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Have you measure your salinity , What is the value! Meanwhile just let it kick in to the skimmer. Probably take 1-2 weeks. Mine previously also have this issue after washing the skimmer and in a new tank. Took about 1 week to resolve.

What you use you measure the salinity!

IF it keep overflowing take out the skimmer cup first!

 

 

There's nothing to see here. 

But do check out my articles! https://www.sgreefclub.com/home/

Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/floratiaracoral/

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Have you measure your salinity , What is the value! Meanwhile just let it kick in to the skimmer. Probably take 1-2 weeks. Mine previously also have this issue after washing the skimmer and in a new tank. Took about 1 week to resolve.
What you use you measure the salinity!
IF it keep overflowing take out the skimmer cup first!


I am using Fluval salinity test kit which show 1.025.

Noted will try again this weekend.


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Firstly, do consider getting an optical refractometer to improve the chance of success. The float arm hydrometer is extremely inaccurate which can cause issues especially with corals.

 

The brown stuff is likely diatoms. Related to new tank setup/silicates/lighting. It can go away after a while provided you keep nitrate/phosphates low & lighting to a reasonable level necessary for your corals. The process can be sped up by siphoning out the diatoms (not blow/stir it) as you want to 'export' it from the system

 

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On 1/12/2021 at 9:30 AM, Maveric said:

air adjustment to the least

Take note. When you minimized air intake,  the pump will be able to push more water,  you foam may actually be higher. Try fully open the air intake to begin with. 

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Firstly, do consider getting an optical refractometer to improve the chance of success. The float arm hydrometer is extremely inaccurate which can cause issues especially with corals.
 
The brown stuff is likely diatoms. Related to new tank setup/silicates/lighting. It can go away after a while provided you keep nitrate/phosphates low & lighting to a reasonable level necessary for your corals. The process can be sped up by siphoning out the diatoms (not blow/stir it) as you want to 'export' it from the system
 


Noted, will look for refractometer. I use the fluval gauge is just a guide.

Noted, the brown stuff is diatom & reducing nitrate, phosphates & light will reduce diatom.

May I ask,
1) what is the ideal light time?
Example: how many hour of white light & blue light required?

2) how to reduce nitrate and phosphates?

Many thanks ...


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Take note. When you minimized air intake,  the pump will be able to push more water,  you foam may actually be higher. Try fully open the air intake to begin with. 


Noted, I have tried both methods.

The pump was so powerful, it looks likes return pump. Pushes the water out from both the chamber and the side control...




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9 hours ago, Maveric said:

1) what is the ideal light time?
Example: how many hour of white light & blue light required?

2) how to reduce nitrate and phosphates?

 

 

Regarding total light time. There is probably many answers & options. The common practice is to have about 4-6 hours of 'brighter' light. And several hours of bluish light in the evening to enjoy the glow of the corals. But again, it really depends on what you keep. Some SPS look nicer with whitish light only and very dull in blue because they don't fluorescence. Some folks prefer more bluish light through out. And to compensate the lower energy (PAR), the lighting hours are extended.

 

Regarding nitrate/phosphate removal. The common practice is to remove organic waste efficiently via skimming or replacing the filter wool often. Reduce feeding. Use rowaphos to remove phosphates.

On closer look at the photo, I noticed an edge. Is that a sand bed? Or a piece of sponge that the rocks are sitting on?

image.png.9a93aa4049eee26128d7853aba7f94c6.png

Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/mysliceofnature/

 

 

 

 

 

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Regarding total light time. There is probably many answers & options. The common practice is to have about 4-6 hours of 'brighter' light. And several hours of bluish light in the evening to enjoy the glow of the corals. But again, it really depends on what you keep. Some SPS look nicer with whitish light only and very dull in blue because they don't fluorescence. Some folks prefer more bluish light through out. And to compensate the lower energy (PAR), the lighting hours are extended.
 
Regarding nitrate/phosphate removal. The common practice is to remove organic waste efficiently via skimming or replacing the filter wool often. Reduce feeding. Use rowaphos to remove phosphates.
On closer look at the photo, I noticed an edge. Is that a sand bed? Or a piece of sponge that the rocks are sitting on?
image.png.9a93aa4049eee26128d7853aba7f94c6.png


Greeting bro,
For lighting -
I am using Dymax - Reef SpaceX, initially I program, as follows:
white light for 10.5 hrs
blue for 1.5 hrs.
Light off from 23 to 11 hrs.

Just did modification
White light for 6.0 hrs
Blue light for 6.0 hrs
Light off, as above.

Next is the intensity of the lights:
50% - white
70% - RGB
90% - Night
Is the above correct?

Nitrate & phosphate reduction:
1) will add wool into the filter compartment.
2) will add a skimmer
3) will reduce feeding to 2 times a week.
4) will use rowaphos / phosguard, as 1 of the filter media.

Foreground - Yes, I am using those black filter sponge.
Firstly to house more Beneficial Bacterial.
Secondly in case if the rock drops it break the impact on the glass.

Cheers, bro


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