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Howdee GrooveMeister,

Yes you can use distilled water straight from the bottle to the tank.:)

Distilled water comes from steam. The purity of the steam and the temperature at which this occurs would make drinkable water as is.

Steam is produced and cooled and the condensate then put directly into a sealed sterile container. Storage would require no chlorine.

Even if chlorine or other purifying agent like ozone is used it would be absolutely minimal.

You may want to try it first. Distilled water has a very flat, bland taste.

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yes remember to read the label for contents... theres one brand that states pure drinking water but contents include soldium, carbonates, sulphates... so far those that ntuc brand cheap n gd i think ard 60 cts for 1.5 litres zero of everything very gd for topup use

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Hi Guys,

Thank you bawater, xersion and sapp for putting me at ease. I really appreciate all the advise. :bow:

Have decided to drain 100% of the water from my existing tank (just cycled, no Live Stock only LR) and replace it with distilled water and salt mix, with Live sand...........before adding my first Cleaners. Any advise guys?

Cheers: :D

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HI Dazza,

Thank you for the recommendation, will try and see if i can find the cheap good distilled water form ntuc. Saw a1.5L bottle for 85 cts at Guardian, is that one good? saw the lable all 0.

Cheers:

Yes i m sure Guardian brand is ok as well... distill water is distill water ... llok for the cheapest and just do it hahaha

Main Tank : 48 inch by 36 inch by 28 inch (2 sides starphire glass)
Sump Tank :
Return Pump :
Chiller : Starmax Compressor 1 HP Drop coil
Chiller Return Pump
Protein Skimmer :
Wave Maker :
Fluidised Reactor :

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Do not replace 100% at one go. it will start the cycle all over again.

replace 50% at most.

the nitrosomas and nitrobacter bacteria is contained within the liverocks, the sand and filtration sytems not the water ;) thus even a 100% water change is possible.

but more common are up to 75% and 90% changes

"After the ammonia and nitrite levels drop to zero, as soon as possible or at least within 5 days, perform a complete water change."

-http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/beginnerscorner/a/aa061703.htm

"After the tank completes cycling, it will be time for your first major water change. Although the amount of water you change is really up to you, it should be a significant portion of the water. Something like 40 to 50%, with 100% of the water not being uncommon."

-http://faq.thekrib.com/sbegin-longterm.html

"The last thing you need to do is a big water change. A 60% to 90% water change is necessary before adding fish. All that ammonia you have added has now turned into nitrate, and its level is simply too high for your fish. After the water change, don’t let the tank sit empty for a long time. The bacteria you have just cultivated in the tank will need ammonia as food to stay alive. "

- http://aquamaniacs.net/forum/cms_view_article.php?aid=31

:peace:

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Just my opinion, I would go with even less than 50%, maybe 30%. Its not where the bacteria lives, its how sure you are of the water jus made, regardless of 0 PO4 and chloramine. Artificial sea salts have been documented to be very toxic to newly hatch animal frys... this is not the same for Natural SW.

If you need to go 100%, then jus check the SG, pH and temp of the newly made water. By all means do it if u hv very little to lose...

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Howdee Guys,

I have already done a 40% Dechlorinated tap water/salt change.

My tank has been sitting in that state for about 2 weeks......do you think my LR bacteria is dead? I was not aware that i should not leave it without ammonia supply. :cry:

I just purchased this live sand that says "instant cycling"

I was wondering since my tank is already cycled (hopefully Good Bacteria not dead), with the addition of the instant cycle Live sand, and the 100% Distilled water/salt change do you guys think i will be ok?

*How do i know for certain if my tank is cycling again?

Cheers: :thanks:

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to test if tank is cycling,

1.test for ammonia and nitrate record findings, amm should always be 0

2.add ammonia, can buy ammonia, or can add decaying matter like a bit of few days old market prawn or something along that line(little bit will do; like a 1/8 of a prawn, do not overdo it)

3. if tank is sufficiently cycled, ammonia will remain at 0 and nitrate will go up.

if tank is sufficiently cycled then no problems carrying out the rest of your plan, no need to purposely drain out 100% of water just make sure it is a significant change will do.

when changing water do not leave your liverocks or sand exposed to air too much; if not will start to die.

^_^

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Cycling your tank involves developing a balance of bacteria in food chain to turn ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate each step involving different types of bacteria. like all things in nature what happens if abruptly a source of food is taken away. by changing 100% you will take away most of the ammonia , nitrite and nitrate.

first the bacteria that breaks down ammonia will starve to maybe half but thats ok ammonia is produced pretty fast from your fish so the other half may recover...

but in the mean time nitrite takes some time to build up as the ammonia eaters have been halved and are now slower to produce nitrite, so in the extended period of the absence of nitrite or very little of it. the nirite eating bacteria die out in larger numbers then the ammonia eating bacteria...

so you can see what comes next the effect once again doubles in impact on the nitrate producing bacteria as they are the 3 in the food chain.

hence your cycle may most likely restart.

sorry abit long winded

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