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Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!


SantaMonica
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Adey is applying for a patent on something you may have seen and read about before..... 3D algal turf screens. Seems like it would have been obvious :) ...

http://www.google.com/patents?id=7atgAQAAEBAJ

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Here is a complete cleaning video (with one hand, and with no sound) of a mature screen from one of the two SM100 scrubbers on my tank. It shows how to clean the acrylic box, the acrylic window, and how to scrape off the turf. About one pound of algae (wet) is removed total, including the algae in the box. Most new screens less than a year old won't have any turf, but this screen is well-grown-in so the turf must be removed every 3 months or so, to give the green hair algae a place to attach to the screen.

Cleaning is done slowly, so you can see all the steps; if I were in a hurry, I could do it all in 5 minutes. Also, the box is full because I let it grow as much as possible (about 2 weeks) to show the 3D growth for the video; you would not normally let it fill up so much:

Shortcuts:

00:30 - 3D close up

03:45 - Turning off pump

06:10 - Removing screen

08:50 - Screen scraping

13:55 - Putting screen back in pipe

15:20 - View the algae in the box

17:35 - Putting pipe back in box

18:40 - Water flow again in clean box

19:00 - Cleaning window with toothbrush

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Below for ReefTools

Another articles on ATS from Santa Monica works :thumbsup:

Algae Scrubbers, an Interview with Santa Monica

After the overwhelming response to our recently published article regarding algae scrubbers, we decided to do a followup. In a recent interview, Reef Tools posed Bryan, “Santa Monica” from algaescrubber.net with the following questions.

1. First off, how long have you been using algae scrubbers?

August of 2011 will be 3 years. No waterchanges in that time, even when I overdosed iron.

2. Obviously algae scrubbers have been around for a while, what makes your new way of scrubbing any different from the previous methods of scrubbing?

The “new” way is the waterfall. It’s mostly a simple way to grow algae, which does the filtering.

3. What were the problems that surged from the old style scrubbers, and how have you modified scrubbing to get the kinks out?

The complexity of the old style was almost impossible to build. And, learning that you have to remove the screen for cleaning; this will keep the water from tinting (although it will still have lots of food particles in it.)

4. Now I know you are into no water changes while running a scrubber, why do you suggest that this is acceptable while running a scrubber?

Because it’s how a real reef operates. There are no waterchanges on a reef; algae does all the filtering, and feeding. The beach does nothing for filtration. So as long as you add Cal, Alk and Mag, and maybe Str. Everything else you need is in the food you feed.

5. What about trace elements, such as amino acids, iron, strontium, etc. etc., is scrubbing something that needs to be supplemented with dosing?

All the traces you need are in the food you feed, too, especially if you feed Nori (lots of iron). All the food, and traces, and anything else edible in the ocean comes from algae. Ask your nearest marine biologist, and he / she will confirm this.

6. So in your opinion, what are the keys to optimal scrubber filtering for a tank?

Having bright light (even distributed) on both sides of a rough screen, with fast flowing water across the screen. Weekly cleaning too.

7. Finally, what would you say to someone who is on the fence about whether or not to try running an algae scrubber on their tank?

Build a simple, cheap one (of the proper size), and see if it reduces your nutrients.

A lot of people asked us to showcase some popular designs. Here are a few that Bryan considers to be “Very Good Examples: These pics are the way you want to make yours. No changes needed. These will provide the most filtering possible.”

Wavecookies on the scrubber site built the best DIY non-acrylic scrubber Bryan has seen yet. Wide screens, big reflectors, and multiple bulbs are always better, and this has all three:

post-9248-0-31657200-1306738074_thumb.jppost-9248-0-12846700-1306738110_thumb.jppost-9248-0-84663700-1306738120_thumb.jp

A cool quad design from Vykhang on the scrubber site:

post-9248-0-39394700-1306738176_thumb.jp

post-9248-0-22147200-1306738185_thumb.jp

For more examples and info, please visit

http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26&p=130#p130

Cheers...

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Cheers and Happy Reefing....

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  • 2 weeks later...
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For those who are using tap water for top-off or water changes:

Tap water sometimes contains copper to kill unwanted things. Algae eats copper, as long as the copper is not added to much, too fast. If the copper is added too much, too fast, it will stop the algae from growing for a while. So to prevent your scrubber from being affected by this, try to make sure you have as much algae on your screen(s) as possible when you add the tap water. In other words, don't clean your screen(s) before you add the tap water.

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I found a nice idea on the web that uses the sump compartment to create the waterfall effect for the ATS screen. I am sure it has been mentioned before in the 62 pages but i just want to bring it up again:).

YOu can find the picture somewhere in the middle of the page. I have since rebuilt my sump to incorporate this and i will be instaling it today. :groupwavereversed:

ATS using sump compartment

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That's a one-sided version. It does work, but if it's does not do a good enough job you can build a stronger two-sided version.

I have a 20gal nano(including sump volume). My screen is 7x7cm. The flow i am putting into this is 1000l/hr. Light is a par38 LED 4 inches away from screen, I am hoping this will work out. It is going to be the sole source of filtration for my Large polyp NPS reef tank. I am pretty certain the flow and the screen size is good, the only factor that i am not too sure is the led light. I will observe and replace as necessary.

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3: Here is a video of an encrusting yellow sponge:

More sponge pics; it came out of nowhere and started growing in low-light areas, especially towards the power head, since it needs lots of flow and food particles:

YellowSponge1.jpg

YellowSponge2.jpg

YellowSponge3.jpg

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No connection that I know of. Carbon remove DOC, which should not affect the scrubber.

GFO would, however.

Sorry but what is DOC and GFO?

I will take a pic of my scrubber tonight.

Sometimes the good guys gotta do bad things to make the bad guys pay. - Harvey Specter

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Unfortunately the chances are not good with the LED. Only one person has been able to get much growth at all from them, and even then it's not enough to do good filtering.

Hi SM,

Can you direct me to somewhere that i can have an idea of how good growth should look like in their various stages? I understand that the Turf is the desired growth but that will also take a while to develop.

After a month, i am having lots of brown(nearer the edges of the screen) and light green(center of screen) slime algae. I clean this screen every 5 days. I note that there are more dark green algae between the screen grooves each time i clean the screen. This green algae is tougher and harder to clean and i leave them there.

thank you.

cheers and have a good day!

Kevin

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Recently I observed that the algae on my scrubber starting to turn translucent after adding in activated carbon.

Is this normal?

Heres a pic that I took but forgot to upload. :thumbdown:

Dont mind the light reflection... but just to show the oil film that was acculumated.

post-13947-0-63536000-1310816944_thumb.j

Sometimes the good guys gotta do bad things to make the bad guys pay. - Harvey Specter

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  • 3 weeks later...
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A reminder about lighting:

Stronger lighting is always better, until you start "burning" the algae. Burned algae will be yellow, because it is getting too much light but not enough nutrients from the flow. More light requires more nutrients, which give you more filtering.

So if you have yellow growth, increase the flow so that more nutrient are delivered to the algae. If you can't increase flow, then add some iron. If you can't add iron, then reduce the number of hours the lights are on. Do not reduce the wattage, however; stronger light for less hours is better than weaker light for more hours, because weaker light will grow darker algae. Stronger light grows bright green algae, which does the most filtering.

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