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SPS & Zeovit system


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Since little have been disscued over in SRC regarding the Zeovit system, i am starting this thread for all reefer using the Zoevit system to share and exchange any information on their result, since Zeovit is one of the best known way of acheving a natural ULNS (ULNS is an acronym for Ultra Low Nutrient System).

It applies to various methods of growing reef SPS corals to provide stunning colours and growth by using micro-nutrients, chemicals and bacteria to keep corals natural toxics at a ultra low level..

For those who is not familar with the Zeovit system, below is some of the basic info extract from www.Zeovit.com ;Originally posted by ShadowRamy .

What is a Zeovit System ?

Zeovit is a system that incorporates bacterial sources to help rid a system of excess nutrients. Some have labeled this as one of this first well publicized ultra low nutrient system or ULNS. The idea is to mimic natural seawater (NSW) parameters by reducing the levels of Nitrate and Phosphate without lowering other essential parameters such as Calcium and Magnesium.

What does it do ?

1) the system removes excess nutrients such as nitrate and phosphate through bacteria sources and skimming.

2) Once ULNS has been achieved, you may 'tweak' coral colors through additional Zeovit additives.

Many think by reading nitrate and phosphate at 'undetectable' on their trident test kit they are running an ULNS, however, very few test kits can measure nitrate and phosphate at those low levels. Typically, zeovit users use a photometer such as the Hana meter to test for phosphate. The Hana meter digitally reads down to .001. In Zeovit, there are visual identifiers that signify you are past one step and ready to move to the next. Simply adding a food source such as amino acids without running your system through step one will result in just adding more nutrients to your system and the result might not be that good.

One note; Zeovit is not a 'cookie-cutter' system, since every system is different and has different needs, the dosage and products of zeovit will vary from one tank to another. Although Zeovit is a very precision system you will get your best results by watching your corals and letting them tell you what is needed. Zeovit uses some basic introductory guidelines to get you started.

So what do we need to have in a Zeovit system ?

The Basic Four

The basic four is the absolute minimum you will need to incorporate (purchase) for the zeovit system. The other Zeovit products are 'as needed' additives and suppliment to help improve or tweak your system. In addition to the basic four, you will need some type of Zeovit reactor and use Carbon 24/7 every 30 days.

Zeolites

Think of these as porous man made rocks ( Media) that absorb something, specifically reef toxins (I would say nitrate and phosphate but nobody knows for sure if these actually remove them or help bind them so your skimmer can easily remove them). Zeovit uses a mixture of different zeolites that have been found to best reduce toxins in a saltwater system. Exactly how they work has been much debated; from a theory of bacterial colonizing to locking-up or removing ammonia, to a transformation process of nutrients to a different ion. Sorry, I have no idea of how it works just that it does.

Zeovit Reactor

The zeolites are stored in a reactor, which looks a lot like a Calcium reactor without all the extra do-dads on it. It is a single chamber with a second chamber inside the first with a handle that protrudes out of the top. The Zeolites are placed in the second chamber and once a day the second chamber is 'pumped' to clean the zeolites of mulm (algae build up). This mulm is said to actually feed corals.

Zeolites are changed out at approximately every six to eight weeks (I have never had good results with zeolites lasting past eight weeks). I assume the exchange rate is based on the amount of nutrients you have in your system much like activated carbon.

One thing I know for sure, running a zeovit system without zeolites will not work to its full capacity and using a different 'ebay' zeolite will not work. I can absolutely tell when my zeolites are expelled and no longer fit for use, my corals will look faded.

Zeovit Addictive needed for the system

1) Zeobak

This is a bacteria source that is used to colonize the zeolites, live rock and/or sand beds which help reduce nutrients. The biggest difference in my option about other carbon sourced systems such as a vodka or vodka/sugar/vinegar (VSV) is that they do not incorporate a bacteria source. It has been theorized that running a system that is totally reliant on ones own tank to produce the necessary bacteria can result in one bacteria completing against another bacteria. This competition can result in a mono-culture of bacteria which does not remove nutrients at all.

Zeobak is dosed every day initially, after colonies have established in your system this is drastically reduced to once or twice weekly.

2) Zeofood

This is a food source for your corals and bacteria, since you are basically starving your corals of excess nutrients you need to put something back in for your corals to feed on. Since zeovit has introduced so many other food sources such as amino acids and Xtra, I rarely use this product any more.

Initially dosed at approximately five drops per 200 net gallons.

3) ZeoStart

This is the carbon source; it smells like an Easter egg coloring kit (vinegar). I am sure it is some mixture of vinegar, sugar and/or something else but not sure exactly what. Initially, this was the carbon source I used in conjunction with Prodibio BioDigest and it worked very well.

ZeoStart helps in the reproduction of nitrifying bacteria which basically 'eats' phosphate and nitrate. Zeostart works in conjunction with zeobak (the food for the bacteria) and zeobak works in conjunction with the zeolites.

Zeostart is dosed at approximately 1ml per 200 net gallons.

Additional Parameters requirement

Additionally, zeovit incorporates GAC carbon that is run 24 hours for 30 days and then exchanged. This can be run passively in a bag or through a reactor. Zeovit does have their own brand and I have used it with great results. I have also used hydro-carbon and Seachem matrix with good results. You do want to watch out for aggressive carbons such as ROX. For me ROX was just too much for my system and reduced my growth in some corals.

It is also assumed in the Zeovit method that you are using strong lighting and a good protein skimmer that is skimming DRY. I have actually had very good result in using a basic skimmer such as an ASM G3 on my system skimming dry. I really believe you want a good skimmer but not one that is too oversize for the system that is going to pull out all your additives that you are putting in, this is the reason as to NOT skim wet.

Refugiums, phosban reactors, phosphate removers, denitrification reactors, algae/turf scrubbers, ozone and UV filters are not needed and should be removed before you start the zeovit setup.

Finally, in order to effectively use zeovit you need to run your system as close to natural seawater levels as possible. This mean an alkalinity of 6.5-7.5 dKh, Calcium 410-430 mg, Magnesium 1250-1300 mg, Salinity 33-35 ppt and Potassium (K+) 380-400 mg. Therefore the salt you choose is very important, you want something with a low alkalinity, high potassium and good Calcium levels.

Zeovit Supplement ( Optional that can be use without a Zeovit reactor)

Zeovit goes onto add supplements that target certain aspects for coloring, growing and improving your zeovit system. When you first setup a zeovit system, stick with the basic four until you achieve ULNS status which can take anywhere from three months to a year. It took me a good six months even after using the prodibio system.

The zeovit supplements are what I consider 'tweaking' supplements. They are specifically used to tweak color, growth, recovery time, and aid in problematic issues. My advice is to use only one supplement at a time and measure the results. If you add too many supplements at once you won't know what one is doing from the other.

Below is what I recommend in the order I recommend them. I will give a basic description of each, if I use the supplement and the result I have seen.

Coral Foods

AAHC (Amino Acids)

AAHC was the first supplement I started with. Right away I noticed a 'fuller' coral with polyp extension. Typically most of my polyps would extend at night time but since I started using the AAHC I was getting much better expansion during the day.

If you are still adding zeofood I recommend you half does AAHC, if you over dose you will most definitely get brown algae and sometimes cyano.

I dose 3 drops daily on a 200 net gallon system about one hour before my light kick off for the night.

Coral Vital (CV)

I really liked coral vital in conjuction with AAHC. AAHC seem to help give good polyp extension while CV help with coloring. Using CV a lot of my staghorn corals developed full color instead of just tip color. I also noticed an increased growth rate. I usually mix CV up with whatever I am feeding that day and dose all at once.

I dose 5 drops per 200 net gallons.

Color Enhancers

K-Balance

There are a lot of theories about potassium in a reef system. Some say it is not needed, some zeoheads say the process of bacteria exchange through the zeolites and skimming removes too much potassium that needs to be added later.

I use K-Balance only as needed. There is a test kit but it is very difficult to read. I use my Montipora caps as identifiers. When they start to get this washed out grey tone to them I add about 2 ml of K-balance every other day until they look bright again.

It is also said that an overdose of potassium can result in Acropora tips being burnt. I have seen picture of this but never experienced this myself.

Potassium Iodide (PIF and Job Complex)

Potassium iodide really helps the color of blue and purples in your system. I usually alternated between PIF and Job Complex because each contains a little something different.

I also dose based on what I see. If my blues are faded I will dose 3 drops of PIF one day and 3 drops of Job Complex the next until my blues are back. It doesn't take much and usually end up dosing each about twice a week.

Also I watch my yellow corals. Signs of adding too much include yellow corals turning green, if this happens, stop (unless you like the green color).

Iron

This boosts green and some red coloring in corals. Use very sparingly, over dosage can cause major algae issues.

I dose 3 drops once a week.

Xtra

Xtra has become one of my favorite additives for two reasons. Not only does the dosing of Xtra increase polyp extension, it adds a level and depth to corals. It is very difficult to explain, but if you look very closely at a coral you see an underlying almost phosphorus tint to the coral that glows, it almost looks like the skeleton of the coral glowing.

The second reason is that Xtra at a double dosage aids in the recovery of coral fragging and when adding new corals. It was suggested to me when I moved from my 75 gallon tank to my 120 gallon tank to double dose Xtra for two weeks. I did, and I did not lose a single coral. I have also noticed that on a fragged coral, the tissue is replace over the cut in a much shorter amount of time.

I am not sure to what to label Xtra as, maybe a food or a color enhancer. By dosing Xtra, I dose my AAHC a lot less (almost half dose) and I eliminate all zeofood dosing. Also, since using Xtra, I no longer use ZeoSpur.

Currently I am dosing 1 to 2 ml every other day opposite sponge power.

Sponge Power

Sponge power is really a mixed bag, it is basically used to feed sponges which in turn process vast amounts of water acting as a natural filter cleaning and polishing the water. However, it does also increase the growth of aptasia and other glass anemones.

It is also said to increase the colorization of purple, I have yet to really see this.

I currently dose 5 drop every other day opposite Xtra.

Problem Solvers

I am labeling these as problem solvers since they are generally used to solve some issue or used as maintenance additive to cleanup something.

Coral Snow

Coral Snow is generally used to reduce yellow in your tank that carbon doesn't absorb. CS has a nice side-effect; it has been report to help remove cyano bacteria (algae) from a system. Since I have never had cyano I can not really comment.

I primarily use CS when I do water changes to help clear or neutralize acid compounds.

I dose 2 ml into my water change bucket once or every two weeks.

ZeoZym

This is a very new product that I though I would give a try. It is said to help with cyano and help clean sludge from sand beds and live rock. Right now I have only dosed a couple of times, once by itself and once with zeobak. I have experienced increased sludge in the skimmer, a darker nastier skim mate. As far as additional coral coloring, I have yet to see anything but it is still early.

There are a couple other products from Zeovit but I either no longer use them or simply do not currently use them.

Conclusion

Since this is just a basic understanding of what the ZeoVit system is, it is diffuclt to come to conclusion other than from my own experiences. For me, zeovit has been a great system that allows me to tweak colors to my liking. The cost is neglible considering you would probably spend about the same amount trying to reduce nutriets through other means. The system is also a very easy system to maintain as long as you pay attention to what your tank is tell you.

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Cycling of tank using Zeovit system.

Day 0:

Install an appropriate sea water tank, install the sump, install necessary PVC tubing and make sure to give the glue enough time to dry !

Day 1:

1. Water

Fill the system with reverse osmosis water, if possible use the RO unit with a filter resin as last stage. Warm up the water to 20-25° C and install current pumps at the same time.

2. Current

We recommend a smooth and broad flow, about 20-30 times of the tank's volume per hour. Also well approved is the combination with Osci-Motion – they create a very natural shifting streaming due to the pivoting pumps.

3. Sea salt

As soon as the water temperature is around 25 °C add salt slowly into the current and adopt the salinity around 34 %o. Live rock can be added as soon as the salt has dissolved completely and the water is clear.

4. Live rock

It is very important to use fresh and clear live rock, approx. 10 % of the tank's contents After you bring in the live rock in the tank, the sand bed is next. At this time the skimmer is started as well as the ZEOvit® filter and the tank needs light now!

5. Sand bed

Now you can add a shallow sand bed. Use crushed Coral Sand or Aragonite. Do not use Live Sand in combination with the ZEOvit® system. Soak the material in reverse osmosis water for 3-4 days before use and replace osmosis water daily. If the PO4 level of the water is close to zero the sand is ideal.

6. Start the ZEOvit® filter and skimmer

Use 1 liter ZEOvit® for each net 400 liter (100 US gallons) of water tank volume. Do not exceed flow rate through the filter of 400 liter (100 US gallons) per hour maximum per each 1liter ZEOvit®. Start your protein skimmer.

7. Lighting and other technical equipment

Start the lighting min. 10 hours per day. Start also all other technical equipment now.

8. Dosage

The addition of ZEObak, ZEOstart and Sponge Power can be started now.

ZEObak: 5 ml per 100 liters/25 US gallons

ZEOstart: 10 ml per 100 liters/25 US gallons

Sponge Power: 3 ml per 100 liters/25 US gallons

Day 2 and Day 3

Dosing break.

Day 4:

Dose ZEObak, ZEOstart and Sponge Power as recommended on the products label:

ZeoBac 1 drop / 100 liters/25 US gallons

Sponge Power 1 drop / 100 liters/25 US gallons

ZeoStart2 0.1 ml / 100 liters/25 US gallons 2 x daily

Day 4-10:

Different algae phases can appear, like some brown slime algae followed by some healthy green algae. Use the same dosage like described for day 4 above. Double check Salinity.

Day 10:

First herbivore fish (max. 2 per 200 L) can be added, also sea urchins and turbo snails. You should also be able to add the first not to sensitive corals like branching Montipora. Add now the Activated Carbon.

Activated Carbon:

As soon as the first animals are stocked into the system, add the Activated Carbon: 0.5 – 1 Liter per 1000 liters as recommended. Replacement interval 30 days.

Day 11-14

Keep dosage as described for day 4. Test Carbonate Hardness and Salinity carefully. More corals can now be added into the system if the basic water parameters are in the recommended ranges. Additional fish can be added but should be done very slow. Also fish feeding has to be done very carefully in this phase as biology is not very stabile in this phase. Do not add more fish than 1-2 fish per 250 liters per week. After additional 4 weeks you can add the rest of the fish which where planed for the system.

Starting from day 14:

ZeoBac 1 drop / 100 liters/25 US gallons 2-3 x weekly

Sponge Power 1 drop / 100 liters/25 US gallons daily

ZeoStart2 0.1 ml / 100 liters/25 US gallons 2 x daily

The dosage needs than eventually be adjusted depending to the general look of the tank, the parameters or the corals. Later on, additional products can be used. We would recommend to start wit the regular water changes at week 4 – 6.

Extracted from Zeovit.com

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Some photos of the Zeovit equipment you will need ;

Zeovit Reactor ;

zeovit%20filter.jpg

The reactor will come with a low flow pump ( 300 l/hr ~ 700 l/hr) and a handle which you enable you to turn and "flush" the media everyday.

Zeovit rock

zeolithrocks.jpg

The exchange of the ZEOvit media depends on the tanks nutrient load and is limited to 6-12 weeks. The amount of ZEOvit used is 1 liter per 100 gallons / 400 liters of water.

Zeobac

zeobac.jpg

Zeofood

zeofood.jpg

Zeostart

Zeovit-Zeostart.jpg

And lastly, carbon as well to remove the yellow stain from the water.

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Thanks for the info and just in time as i'm looking to start with Zeo system for my new setup.

Not sure any seniors out there can help with the correct flow given a tank size of 4x2.5x2.5 including sump making it a total of 550 ltrs.

Does it do any harm if i add more zeovit as i not sure the correct amount for my tank requirement given the recommended 1 litres for every 400 litrs...

Thanks in advance !

Cheers.

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HM what about placing the zeovit rocks in a FR and linking it with the chiller out flow? Must the flow into the system be controlled?

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Thanks for the info and just in time as i'm looking to start with Zeo system for my new setup.

Not sure any seniors out there can help with the correct flow given a tank size of 4x2.5x2.5 including sump making it a total of 550 ltrs.

Does it do any harm if i add more zeovit as i not sure the correct amount for my tank requirement given the recommended 1 litres for every 400 litrs...

Thanks in advance !

Cheers.

I think for 550l, it would be safe to use 1.25ml of the zeolites. It will do harm if you use too much or you have too much flow in the reactor as it may shock the corals.

You really have to go slow with zeovit.

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Flow through the reactor should be as slow in order for the bacteria to be build up, and it is recommanded to "off" your pump for 3 hour a day in order to increase the effectiveness of the system for the bacterica build up in the reactor.

However, you may need a aquarium computer or good timer that can perform this.

I just started my zeovit system on my 800 litres tank with 1.5 litres of Zeo rock about 7 week agao , and below is my dosing schedule ;

Zeostart - 2 ml /day

Zeobac - 4 drop with coral snow twice a week to prevent / combat red cyno algae.

Zeofood - 4 drop / day

Cleaning of the stones 2 times per day with 15 repetitions of the handle each time..

I have taken off my Ozone, and UV since it will reduce the effectiveness of the Zeovit system, and have been reducing my P04 remover in my FR Slowly and prehapes about another 2 week completing removing the need for a FR totally.

The good thing about a Zeovit system is that it provide an alternative means of effective control of N03 and P04, thus you may not need to run a FR, denitrator,alage scubber or other mean of N03 or P04 removal anymore ..

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HM what about placing the zeovit rocks in a FR and linking it with the chiller out flow? Must the flow into the system be controlled?

You need to manually "pump" and clean the rocks in order for the reactor to work ( Which is why the reactor is design in such a way), also since you need a strong pump thru the chiller to chill the water fast, the reactor need very low flow so this is not suitable as well.

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Thanks for the info and just in time as i'm looking to start with Zeo system for my new setup.

Not sure any seniors out there can help with the correct flow given a tank size of 4x2.5x2.5 including sump making it a total of 550 ltrs.

Does it do any harm if i add more zeovit as i not sure the correct amount for my tank requirement given the recommended 1 litres for every 400 litrs...

Thanks in advance !

Cheers.

Zeovit stuff are all very very concentrated !! Using much more than the recommanded dosing will not speed up the process and it will casue side effect as well like algae bloom and SPS RTN.

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Thanks for the advice Vurbul.

Forgive me for my silly question as the zeovits are rocks, so its down to roughly gauge the extra 0.25ml right? Flow should be around 500 for the 1.25L right?

You can use those measuring cups they use for baking to measure the exact amount. They flow for yours should be ok. And as recommended by HM , try to run the pumps on a 3hr on/3hr off/3hr on interval for the 1st few weeks. And make sure the stones remain submerge in water when the pump is off.

HM, have you start dosing supplements yet? I just did the 3rd zeolites exchange and just started dosing Coral Vitaliser for a week now. This thing really rocks. Can see my corals loving it. :yahoo:

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Thanks everyone for the advice.

Does using NSW together with the system has any issues as the normal process is recommended to use RO water with salt mix?

Also, anyone using it with "live sand" ? as its recommended to soak the sand till PO4 is almost undetectable. Any issues with this?

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just to add on,

zeovit system can make ur

sps color up nicely

but if one used apply it wrongly

Sps will just stn or Rtn easily.

i wouldn't say that this would cause your SPS to STN or RTN easily, unless you really overdose it that created a SUPER Clean and ULN environment which the SPS cannot take it .. If not, it is still consider a relatively easy system to use, and the interesting fact is that you can use the different supplement to tune the colors of your SPS..

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You can use those measuring cups they use for baking to measure the exact amount. They flow for yours should be ok. And as recommended by HM , try to run the pumps on a 3hr on/3hr off/3hr on interval for the 1st few weeks. And make sure the stones remain submerge in water when the pump is off.

HM, have you start dosing supplements yet? I just did the 3rd zeolites exchange and just started dosing Coral Vitaliser for a week now. This thing really rocks. Can see my corals loving it. :yahoo:

Yes, in fact i got almost the whole range of he zeo supplement now :P

Thanks to bro thomas :)

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Wow Boss, your info very precise. Very interesting, had been waiting for this thread on Zeo system:welldone:

Tag along.

Mix reef-Main tank 3x2.5x2.5ftA

TI 3ft 8tube

Hitachi compressor unit 1HP

1 x AP- 702 Deltec

1 x Coral Lab CR with Ph controller; 1X AquaMedic Kalk Reactor top off

Baby fish dosing kh/Sr&Kcl/mg

DI water thru kalkwasser

1 x Skimz Fr with BRS gfo

2 x Rio 32hF main pump

1 x Pinpt Orp monitor

1 X Pinpt Ph monitor

Aquamedic wave maker

Sump 3x1.5ft plumbed together with;

1.5ft cube live rock

Frag tank 5x1x1ft

 

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The good thing about a Zeovit system is that it provide an alternative means of effective control of N03 and P04, thus you may not need to run a FR, denitrator,alage scubber or other mean of N03 or P04 removal anymore ..

Larry don't mind me asking, what about those reefers who have been using bio pellets? what i understand is that bio pellets are food for bacteria and zeo sys is like a home for bacteria to grow and multiply. Pls forgive me if i got the zeo system wrong.

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Larry don't mind me asking, what about those reefers who have been using bio pellets? what i understand is that bio pellets are food for bacteria and zeo sys is like a home for bacteria to grow and multiply. Pls forgive me if i got the zeo system wrong.

The Zeovit reactor provide the "Home" for the bacterica to colonize in a anaerobic zones , whereas the 3 part Zeovit solution ( Zeostart, Zeobac and Zeofood) provide the bacterica "food source" to speed up anaerobic bacteria to convert nitrate into nitrogen which is harmless. Which is also why the reactor need to run on a "Slow flow" environment and the 3hr on/3hr off will help to speed up this process of bacteria buildup. Whereas Bio pellets actually is more of a carbon base products which work similar to volka dosing which helps to increase bacterial biomass to reduce excess nutrients in the reef aquarium.

I have not tested runing the bio pallet toegther with Zeovit system , but i will also check with alexander from Zeovit.com for the benefit of all of us here since they are the expert on this. :)

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Very good info on Zeovit as now I research and look for system before I jump into SPS world. However I need help for some question

=> From the article it seem that need daily task to maintain the system. If in situation like go on vacation. How long can system go without daily task? Anyone try it before? Do we need to restart again after period of time?

?

Tank Spec :

Display tank : 48" x 24" x 18."'(H)

Sump tank : 25" x 23" x 18"(H)

Return pump : Reef Octopus 8000

Wave Maker : Vortech MP10Wes

Lighting : DIY LED (Cree led) 60 bulb

Chiller : helia 55hs

Skimmer : BM Curve 7

Controller : Reef Angel

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I went on a 5 days vacation leaving the tank alone. I only had my helper feed the fish everyday. Did not even shake the zeolites. Came back and continue dosing as per normal. I did not see any negative impact on my tank at all. In fact my sand looks cleaner.

I think as long as you can find a way to maintain your alk, calcium and magnesium at a stable level while you are away, I think it will be fine.

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Zeovit system is about culturing of healthy bacterica strain which help to achieve ULNS ( Low P04 & N03), so if you didnt dose for a few day it is absolutely fine with it. Just carry on with the dosing when you are back from oversea.

The interesting fact about runing a Zeovit system is the ability to "twite" the color of the corals upon achiving a ULNS tank environment using the various Zeovit supplement.

Examples; to increase the Blue color for your Acroporas, you can dose K-Balance, or to increase the Red/orange color of your Digitata you can dose B-balance or if you want to enhance the overall colors of all your corals, you can dose Pohl Xtra and Zeospur2.

HTH

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The Zeovit reactor provide the "Home" for the bacterica to colonize in a anaerobic zones , whereas the 3 part Zeovit solution ( Zeostart, Zeobac and Zeofood) provide the bacterica "food source" to speed up anaerobic bacteria to convert nitrate into nitrogen which is harmless. Which is also why the reactor need to run on a "Slow flow" environment and the 3hr on/3hr off will help to speed up this process of bacteria buildup. Whereas Bio pellets actually is more of a carbon base products which work similar to volka dosing which helps to increase bacterial biomass to reduce excess nutrients in the reef aquarium.

I have not tested runing the bio pallet toegther with Zeovit system , but i will also check with alexander from Zeovit.com for the benefit of all of us here since they are the expert on this. :)

The following link is the Tank of the Month in Reef Central (June 2010) who had used Zeovit and then now using NP pellets..

http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/65-tank-of-the-month

He switched due to the the unforgiving nature of Zeovit, given that he was away from home more and more. He couldn't afford the alk swing risk and thus switched to what he feels is a more forgiving Ulns system...

There is another reefer/arcticle going this route:

http://www.shadowramysreef.com/component/content/article/24-chemistry/171-warner-marines-magic-bullet

One of my tanks is currently on NP Pellets and the other is on ZeoVit... still cannot compare the results for both yet... Hopefully time will tell in few months from now... ;)

fts-022012.JPG

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The following link is the Tank of the Month in Reef Central (June 2010) who had used Zeovit and then now using NP pellets..

http://reefkeeping.c...nk-of-the-month

He switched due to the the unforgiving nature of Zeovit, given that he was away from home more and more. He couldn't afford the alk swing risk and thus switched to what he feels is a more forgiving Ulns system...

There is another reefer/arcticle going this route:

http://www.shadowram...es-magic-bullet

One of my tanks is currently on NP Pellets and the other is on ZeoVit... still cannot compare the results for both yet... Hopefully time will tell in few months from now... ;)

Thanks for sharing the info on this.. I think this will benefit members deciding which system to use, since both got it's pro and cons.

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Below is the reply from Alexandra with regards to the questation i ask if Zeovit system can be used with NP pallets ?

Basically I can tell you that the bacteria strains / microorganisms which are dosed with ZeoBac can not be nourished with any kind of carbon source, the carbon sources contained in ZeoStart2 are ideal balanced therefore. This would be my biggest concern but as said I do not know much about the pellets or the vodka dosing.

If you talk about the zeolite itself I would not see a problem with the combination as it just provides a immense surface to host bacteria but one need to test this practical to say it does really work.

If there is anyone who has experience using both together with sucess, prehapes you can share with us here.

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