boxerz
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Posts posted by boxerz
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Bro, PMed you liao
I never receive your PM OO
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Anyone ?
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Anyone bros here have SPS frags to spare or to sell cheaply ? Preferably in the Hougang, eastern area.
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Tangs need a diet of veggies to keep their colour and health.
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25 C is not a must for reef tank. In fact, tropical reef temp can go up as high as 30c but normal stays in the 26-28 region.
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To TS: Other than using their waste level production as a form of measurement. Take into account their required living space and signs of stress. In general, it is best not to have blue tangs in a 3 feet tank unless you plan on an upgrading. I had them before and I know how crappy that ends up in.
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Do you mean if i do water change regularly, I dont need to buy those additives for CA, MG etc....I am using ME rite now. So all I need to do is to provide them light, food rite?
Yes for low coral quantity. When the corals get larger or there are more, they will consume more CA and kH. These will start to drop and doing water changes to keep replacing the lost element becomes non-practical.
IMO, ME is a rather good product but the downside is that the trace elements are not pre-mixed, they come in separate bottle. therefore, when doing water changes you need to know adjust how much to add (if you are not using the entire pack of salt)
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what is the size and depth of your tank ?
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no offence but I have to disagree with a couple of statements here. First of all, ATI tubes does not make the T5s strong, it is the combination of tubes, ballast and fixture. Next, you cannot tell the intensity of light without using a par/lux meter.
How long your coral were under the lights before they bleach. Fast bleaching may be due to strong lights while long term bleaching may be due to lack of light. Ans there are also other factors that can trigger bleaching, light is just one of them.
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not advicable to dose things that you cannot test for like iodine.
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ok good. but remember dun feed too many times ah... next week or 2 weeks later again. i\
I love your elegance lemon. Where you got it ?
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That is brown jelly and it will be a matter of time before you plate coral completely goes away. This often is due to damage to the coral tissue which results in infection that cannot be saved. It could already have been damaged when you bought it or damaged in the introduction process. Bristleworms are definitely not the problem here.
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brown stuff can be 2 things. either brown jelly, or expelling waste/zooxanthaelle. the 2nd is harmless. first one is very hard to treat.
for all euphyllids, they are not terrible difficult to care for. as long as u follow this u should be fine
- moderate wave.
- ABSOLUTELY NO strong laminar flow. it will tear the tissue off the skeleton
- if using MH, place at bottom or somewhere shady.
- if using T5, place mid to top.
- occasional feeding is fine. mysis will do. if u wan feed prawn, once every 2 weeks is enuf.
- never over feed ur LPS. they will die.
follow this general guideline and ur euphyllids should thrive. they do appreciate some nitrates. 5-10ppm is fine.
Lemon bro I think you may give a misconception here that T5s are weaker than MH in intensity when they are not. All these light intensities are dependent on the ballast they work on and the fixture (ie, reflectors, tubes/bulbs) that comes with it. A well built T5 fixture can overpower a 250W MH and vice versa ( bad comparison though but just an example).
Many corals can adapt to high lighting (not blasting them with tons of light because there is a difference). Depending on the source of light your LFS is keeping the corals under, the light source you can immediately put your corals purchased in your tank is variable. If you got them from high lighting LFS, it will be quite safe to put them under the same high light. If they are under low lighting, start them off low and then you can slowly increase the light.
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I understand that most LPS likes water with high nutriets. I have 20ppm nitrates and .25 phosphates as of now and I'm planning to buy a denitrator and phosphate reactor. My LPS and clams are doing fine, but will they still survive if it happens that my nitrates and phosphates decreases to not so ideal level for them? My tank is now running more than a year now.
20ppm nitrates will not kill them but it is not recommended. High nitrate levels can cause stress to the corals and inhibit their growth due to the imbalance between the growth of zooxanthallae with the high dissolved nutrients. Therefore, for LPS to do well, nitrates and phosphates level should be as close to 0 as possible.
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They will live with sufficient algae to eat. They usually rest in the same place in the day and comes out at night. You will see it soon if it is still alive
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Frogspawn and octo have slight difference there. Your salinity is a bit low here, try raising it to 1.025. Your nitrates are a bit high, but that will not kill them.
I got to agree on the specimen health when purchasing. Things to look out for before buying :
Good polyp extension
No sign of jelly like substances around or on the tissue
No sign of damage to tissue, ie exposure of skeleton at tissue area
When introducing to tank :
Acclimation is recommended, no more than 2 hours because it can cause more harm to the specimen.
Try as much as possible not to allow the tissue to have any contact with your hands, or knock them into LRs or other hard objects. Some corals are very stressed out and trauma to their tissue can cause rapid necrosis that becomes impossible to save when infection sets in.
Otherwise this coral is really nice and hardy.
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you only have 1x wavemaker creating the current ?
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The white stuff are their digestive filaments, and mushrooms do that when stressed. As long as they retract those filaments, they will be ok. If those filaments stay hanging out even hours after settling down, something may be stressing them.
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Purple up promotes coraline growth by supplementing dissolved ionic calcium, while coral fluid I think is too liquid for the goniopora ( I don't know what the product is but since it says liquid, the solid particles must be extrememly small).
Food for goniopora:
You cannot drop some food into the water column and expect it to be sufficient for the goniopora. They need to be target fed, ie use of stryinge or other targeting devices and pump food directly to their polyps. Without target feeding they will slowly starve because the food they capture from the water column is just not enough to feed them.
Cyclopeeze has a size of 800 microns and only some of the bigger gonios can swallow. Otherwise, any food smaller are recommended. Oyster eggs are quite popular ( not cheap) and they are less than half the size of cyclopeeze.
Feeding technique:
Cover the goniopora with a clear container (enough to cover the coral) to keep the food from fish. Target some food at the polyps through a small opening in the container. Give them sometime to take in the food (not too long because it can suffocate the coral).
How to see it is feeding or not ?
You can see the mouths of the polyps opening for the food, their polyps will generally retract. It is also possible to see the food travelling down from mouth through the polyps and into the coral digestive system within the skeleton.
This is why people find it hard to keep gonios alive because most people don't feed enough. With sufficient food and care, I think they will do well and be a great addition to your tank.
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How a 28G setup cost so ex ?????
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14k MH does not tell much about the lighting. How high is your MH from the sandbed ? What is the wattage of your MH bulb ?
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Yes reading and more reading. The more you read, the more you learn, the higher chance of your success in reef keeping.
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How did it get out of its shell ? I never knew clams could do that.
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will try to take the before/after pic when i get back home today.
as for the parameters, what are the neccessary parameters i have to check? calcium? cause 1 of the senior reefer told me to just change water more frequently and no need to buy test kits to check. been doing 10-20% water change at least twice a week for my 2ft nano tank.
will it feed on henry food, baby plankton? or do i have to feed it with market prawn for better well being of my bubble?
First of all, test kits are important especially when you just started your setup and you want to monitor the water parameters and make sure they are going in the right direction. And I don't think it is good advice for you not to get any test kits. Important water parameters for a reef tank, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, nitrates, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, pH. I will do a brief outline on these parameters as much more can be found on the many reef forums including here.
For a properly cycled tank, the ammonia and nitrite should be 0 therefore, their test kits are less necessary for already cycled tanks. Those kits that you need in the long run IMHO are nitrates, alkalinity, calcium, ph and salinity.
These parameters are just a rough guide and many reefers have varying parameters. Stability is important in reefing.
Nitrates as close to 0 ( off the charts nitrate ,ie more than 100 ppm is definitey not acceptable because corals cannot survive and fish will die from nitrate poisoning sooner or later)
Alkalinity(kH) 7-11 are the usual range ( important to keep it stable to a fluctuation of 1 magnitude if possible)
Calcium 400-500 ppm
Magnesium 1300-1450 are the acceptable range
ph 8-8.3 (fluctuates throughout the day)
Salinity 1.025-1.026 the usual natural range
If your tank is not heavily stocked, the water changes are suffice to replenish you calcium, mag, kH and other trace element.
Next doing up to 20% water change in a 2 ft tank at least twice a week is quite a lot, especially if the water parameters are inconsistent. You can reduce it to like 10% per week if you want. Make sure your salinity stays constant because corals are sensitive to this.
As for target feeding, give some time for your bubble coral to settle down in your tank. Given the right conditions, they should recover quickly from any injuries. Feeding can then resume. Feeding a sick coral is not recommended because it can put additional stress on the coral and faster demise.
Whats wrong with my mushrooms?
in Soft Coral Forum
Posted
Ca, alk and ph are also important factors even though they are soft corals.