boxerz
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Posts posted by boxerz
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I have gsp in my sump for like months, no extension but still alive I believe.
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A pic will be great.
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Does not look bleached. More like a good white hammer to me.
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It is very misleading to stock fish base on the power of your filtration. A 100000 litre tank running a sufficient volcano skimmer and you use the same skimmer for a 1000L tank and you think you can keep the same amount of fish ? I don't think so and swimming space is a very important factor. Please do not stock up fish the way LFS do (they have no intention of holding their fish for long) and seeing that that will be how the fish will be in your heavily stocked tank. Too crowded and the fish lose sense of their natural behaviour and conform to their given dimensions....stress will take them out after some time.
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looking out for the above....do PM me if you have any ?? pics will be great!
thanks in advance
IMO if you are trying out clams again, you should get bigger specimens, 5 cm at least because smaller clams have lower survival records.
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It does not look good. Keep it at low light and low flow. It should recover. Remove your tang or your sun depending what you want to keep since your tang is not peaceful with your sun.
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i been trying to keep dwarf angels in temp around 29 -30 degree without much success. especially flame, lemon peel etc. tangs is still pretty okay.
They should not be dying in that temperature range. It is "relatively" ok. There must be other factors contributing to your fish demise. How long do they stay in your tank ? Do they eat ? Are they good when you bought ? Any agression ?
Know the source of your fish and how they are captured. Fish captured using cyanide don't last although I believe most of our LFS do not import fish collected through this way.
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why throw away, I don't think they are harmful to your inverts.
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actually my glass tend tend to grow lots of algae even by the edge near the sand bed..using a stick to wipe of the algae has alr stir some of the sand a bit hehe...
A little is ok but not too much.
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ok means the SPS are surviving but not thriving.
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Take note that the reflectors must be of individual reflectors otherwise there is no point getting a T5.
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Any opinions are appreciated.
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in fact my sand has lots of debris and i would say most probably is slightly yellowish in color...could be the reason
I suggest you do not stir your sand because it can create a mini cycle.
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Nice tank there. The aquascape is nice. However, I would considering giving up the hippo tang to another reefer with bigger tank capacity because blue tangs can grow big and they need lots of space for swimming. In a 3 ft tank it is just not big enough IMHO.
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Thanks, why din i think of that? Wonder what I can use to put on the shrimp
For me I use the veggie clip that I use to clip the seaweed.
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Bro Boxerz, I fully agree with you, the way you highlight to me sound better I'm here to learn also.
My Chromis have been reduce to 8 from 10 yesterday, my black/white Cardinal also drop by 1.
Do you think if I take out the Maroon Clown and put in perc clown, will the environment be better for
my goniopora and perc clown will like to host in anemone? Last time I used to have other clown fish and
they like to host and play around this anemone.
Tks
Is the base of the anemone leathery in texture ? If it is, it is probably the long-tentacle/leather anemone. They are natural hosts for percula but NOT oscellaris. However, in cases of anemone hosting it is really up to the individual clowns whether they want to or not. Even if they do, clowns do sometimes move to several hosts. Meaning they maybe be hosting in the anemone but sometimes move to your bubble and then your goniopora, etc. Generally they will stick to one host but they may move about from time to time.
So if you take out your maroon, it will definitely be better for your gonio but putting percula in, there is NO guarantee it will not host your goniopora. At the very least there is a chance that it will not and it is better than letting your maroon stay and stick to your goniopora if you really want a clownfish.
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I stopped breeding Banggais. The time, effort and food way exceeds the market price of $3-$5 per fish.
why not breed it for the fact that you are doing the environment and the hobbyists a favour and not for the profit itself ?
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The 6 line wrasse and dottyback just bot last weekend to get rid of the bristle worms in my tank.
dottybacks are aggressive fish and they are highly territorial. Mine fought with my six wrasse and chromis and I took it out.
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I posted about your goniopora in your other tank thread but I think I should post here incase you miss it there.
Your maroon should not be hosting in your goniopora if you want your goniopora to live. I have observed that your goniopora has reduced in extension and your clown hosting in it could be the a reason for that.
To keep your goniopora alive you need to do frequent target feedings because their living requirements exceeds that of most LPS which can survive purely on lighting. There is a website all about goniopora coral but it seems like it is inaccessible now...
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Also cardinals in pair will end up a disaster if both are males. If you see them chasing and biting a lot, that most probably is the case and it would be better to take out the stronger one, ie, the one that is always doing the chasing.
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So is it right to say that Chromis is no longer a peaceful and easy to care hardy fish? No longer to keep it in school(group)?
Tks dnsfpl for your comments.
Will update you on my health of my Chromis soon...
We are here to learn & share right?
They are considered hardy and easier to keep compared to other reef fish but in a tank they will reduce their own numbers to a number suitable and comfortable for themselves. This is heavily dependent on your tank size and the environment in the tank. Tanks smaller than 3 ft usually end up with 1 chromis. (Apparently this chromis aggression thing does not seem to apply to the LFS tanks where they are kept in)
Other than this aggression between themselves, they are very peaceful towards other fish. And yes, you are most likely not able to keep it in a group for now.
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okie.. got it
now understand..now i need to wait till nitrite falls to 0 and change water to push the nitrate to 0 too...if possible..hahha.
BTW, my tank water did evaporate and water level drops after i place in the surface skimmer. Can dun change water dun wash filter...hahahhaa..just top up about 3 liters of distilled water?.. can I change water and wash filter after i place the fish a week later?
Understand there is no shortcut.. but any shortcut
?Want to consider using LED light for that "grass" portion.. more light more photosynthesis...
Your water level decrease you should be topping off with the same amount of pure water that decreased to keep up with the salinity you kept it at.
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most banggai cardinals are captively bred now. not all are taken from the wild. perhaps should ask the LFS before buying...i have 3 different kinds of cardinals in my 3ft tank all living peacefully. so far no problems.
It is true that not all are taken from the wild but certainly not that most banggai in LFS for sale are captive bred.
Agression inbetween species are more likely especially for his 3 bangaii depending on the gender of the fish.
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Depending on how big your cynarina is you can feed it bigger pieces of shrimp.
Place the shrimp at the centre of the coral.
Put something soft and light on top of the shrimp if it will be blown away by current
Wait for the feeding tentacles to grab the food before removing any objects holding the shrimp.
You will know what you are feeding is too big if the coral spits it out after attempting to swallow it.
ID this Coral Please
in Soft Coral Forum
Posted
The "dirty" water they like does not literally mean water that is high in dissolved nutrients like nitrates. They like pretty pristine conditions and the factor that will determine their survival or not is continous feedings. Yes, they need to be target fed, at least once every 2 days or so. Cylopeeze seems to be the maximum food particle that the bigger gonioporas can consume so anything smaller are recommended. Their mouths are at the tip of each and every polyp. And yes, the red ones have higher rate of survival than the green ones but they are definitely more expensive.
If they do not expand in moderate wave, try to move them to a slower wave region.
Lemon mentioned an important fact which is gonios are found in turbid nutrient rich water in the wild. where minuet food particles are abundant. The important phrase is minute food particles are abundant. So you can gauge how often they actually feed themselves.
Hope this helps you.