KTLK

Hi. everything is going fine. My tank should be back to normal in 1-2 wks time

feel like setting up a anemone & nemo only tank after watching the video

cute & nice animal...how much is 1? maybe consider to get 1

bro u have a very nice reef set-up & well done!

u need a screwdriver & adjust the value at the part mark "set" Normally people set at 350Mv

where is England,Argentina & Spain?

Yes 1 more day to WC 2006! Will print this thread out & paste it on the fridge door

sold & collected

Bought 3 days ago at $60 now selling for $45 nett Collection at Sengkang. Free delivery in town and east side can be arranged Pls call/sms Ken @ 9190 6695 Thank u for reading, Happy reefing...

Wow 3 tanks! hell lot of money & maintainance but also hell lots of fun Well done!

skim mate of my shorty

The left meter is for my denitrator,centre is PH & right is ORP controller for the main tank,kind of low I know

My new toy-TS 24 with 7095 controller this fellow rocks...

interesting...maybe I will try your way & see the result I'm planning to remove the feeding pump & let the shorty feed by gravity,heard its alot better

Thanks my tank is recovering from a ich outbreak which kill alot of my fishes Me stupidly add in a PBT which is infected by ich & that move really cost me alot. Will update as soon as my hypo treatment is over.

Both items sold

As u can see in the pic,I use the piping from my old hailea chiller to screw into the inlet,then insert in the probe. The original aquamedic probe comes with a screw thread probe that screw nicely in,but its very costly,abt $300plus. As long as u can fit in tightly,any probe will do the job

The left meter is for my NR1000,notice it show -36mV,meaning NO3 in the NR1000 will not be reduce as the minimum level is -50. This pic is taken when I just hook up. What I done is that I reduce the flow further so the mV will drop to between -100 to -200.

The NR1000 connecting the mV meter

The NR400/1000 can be as effective as the surphur conterpart but u must know the working concept behind it. I connect my NR1000 with a Mv meter & control the water inlet according to the ORP. The best value is -100 to -200mV & NO3 is always reduce to 0ppm. If u let it increase to more than -50mV or even positive,no NO3 will be reduce.If it falls below -300mV,all NO3 will be reduce & the bacteria start to use sulphate! The result will be having the so call fouling rotten egg smell-Hydrogensulfide.This explain why many units failed to work & many reefers gave up eventually. Without a mV meter,its very difficult to know the situation in the denitrator itself. Its stated in the instruction book as: If u use denimar powder,increase the feeding if the mV increase too much (more than -50mV) If u use deniballs,decrease the flow rate to between -100 to -200mV. I nearly gave up this equipment but after hooking up with the mV meter,it works! I'll add a pic to explain later

Seio 820 reserved by bluezing

2 Fl tubes hidden in hood