Michael Young

Hey folks, I have one 4ft unit of the above for sale at $1800. The configuration is 2 x 250w 14kk MH and 2 x 54w Narva Blue T5 tubes. This unit is brand new. I'm selling because I'm going for the 6 footer. Information on the Riga can be found at www.aqua-connect.de Serious buyers please PM me for more details.

Removing that air valve should increase flow because that hole would allow more water (as oppose to air if used with an air tube) to be suck in.

You obviously had a faulty unit because the pump should not be making any noise at all. I guess that's the reason why the flow is weak. Anybody with the same problem should bring their pumps back for a one for one exchange as they are covered by warranty.

Congratulations Dan! A truly awesome achievement for a tank so small.

Hey, did you guys know that Ian (i-Aqua) also have a very cool modular fluidize reactor that you can hang on your sump or tank? You should check out his website or ask him for details.

Oh, I thought you meant 'pui' as in spitting.

WL, what the heck is a 'pui pui' tang?

Use ear plugs???

WL, I know you very excited but make sure you don't forget to either use Teflon tape or silicon the fittings....

Alamak on leave again! I really pitty your boss.

For people with noise problems on their MD40, I have some spare parts coming in in my next shipment and I'll take a look at your pumps then. Sorry for the trouble.

I was thinking of getting this a while back but didn't go through with it cos I think its a little too much to pay for lights. However, I don't think the 150w MH version cost so much though. If you can fork out the dough to pay for it, go ahead. I'm sure you can trust their quality. You should also check out Aqua Connect lights. I'm using the 250w version myself and I think they are fabulous and reasonably priced. You can get AT or Bio Ocean for a quote.

Folks, I have the following Eheim pumps for sale. They are brand new local units with warranty. Eheim 1260 (2400 ltrs/hr): $165.00 (3 units) Eheim 1262 (3400 ltrs/hr): $230.00 (1 unit) All these prices are inclusive of delivery. Please post your name here if you want one. Eheim 1260: $165.00 1. 2. 3. Eheim 1262: $225.00 1.

Alamak! Woon Ming, none of the links on the site works.

Prefer the old theme.... this one is a little dark for my liking.

Weisoon, you actually do not need to put the solenoid on timer mode since its already controlled by the IKS pH module. Just let it run until the IKS tells it to stop. You need not worry about your tank pH plummeting when you have the pH controller and an extra buffer in your kalk reactor.

Joe, I assumed what he said here to mean he's CR will only be turned on when his pH reaches 8.4.

Weisoon, I'm clear about how you run the IKS now but your setup has a flaw because the tank pH should have priority over the CR's. Controlling the effluent pH of a CR at the expense of the tank's pH in my opinion, is an overkill and may also be detrimental. Let's look at this scenario: Due to some factors (e.g. night time, LS die off etc) the tank pH has fallen to 7.8 but CO2 still continues to be supplied to the CR because pH level stays above the preset low level. In this scenario, the CR will still be supplying acidic or low pH water to the main tank even when the pH there is already low. And even if you have a kalk reactor turned on because of the low pH, it would be working overtime to no avail because what that is added would only be enough to counter the acidic water that's being injected by the CR. That's why I feel that its the tank pH that should be controlled, not the CR. This is how it should be connected: 1. pH probe in tank. 2. When pH falls to low preset level (e.g. 7.9), the controller will shut down CO2 supply via solenoid regulator. If you have a kalk reactor with a dosing pump, it can also be programmed to come on at this moment. 3. When pH rises to high preset level (e.g. 8.5), CO2 will be turned on and kalk reactor shut down. One thing that needs to be running 24/7 is the CR. The chamber of a CR is airtight and if circulation stops, the reaction chamber could turn anaerobic very quickly. Therefore, one should only stop CO2 supply to the CR and not shut it down completely. To adjust the pH of the effluent, you can do it manually using the aid of a pH monitor.

Duh AT, I know what it does. I'm using a unit myself. I'm confused because if I understand his earlier post correctly, he's using both pH modules to control his tank and CR effluent pH. But my question is: If one module of the controller is use to maintain the pH of the tank by turning the CO2 supply on or off, then what does the other module which is connected to the CR do? This module can't also be controlling pH because the solenoid regulator is already connected to the tank pH module. If he's using this controller module for monitoring purpose only; it would be an overkill because these IKS modules are really expensive! Weisoon, IMO its better to let the CR run 24/7 and just regulate the CO2 according to the pH value of the tank instead.

Joe, I know the value of having a pH probe in the CR but I was actually puzzled why is Weisoon's reactor's pH probe connected to the IKS controller. Logically, the probe should be connected to a pH monitor not controller.

But why do you need the IKS to control the pH inside your CR? Do you mean you tune the IKS to switch the CO2 supply off when the pH drops to your preset level?

I'm using the IKS too but the pH controller is use to control the tank pH not the CR. The computer is set to turn on the CO2 when the pH reaches 8.4 and cut off when it drops to 8.1. I'm also using a kalk reactor 24/7 so the IKS keeps my tank pH in check constantly. I'm a little confuse why you use the IKS pH module on your CR? Care to explain?

The best way to run a CR is to have a pH controller. However, what you suggest will also work. But you need to bear in mind that you need to only stop the supply of CO2 with a solenoid regulator that's all and not the circulation in the CR or the chamber will turn anaerobic.

Onghm, I don't think there is a calculator for that. In fact, the pH figure was taken from studies by RHF and my own personal experience when adding kalkwasser to synthetic salt water. Please note that the natural pH level of every aquarium is different and the pH figure I quoted earlier should only be served as a guide.

Peace brother Rumor And for those thinking of boosting your calcium level to the level of NSW and above with kalk, you may want to know that for every 20ppm of calcium gain, you'll increase your alkalinity by 2.8 dKh. The pH raising effect of kalk will also raise your pH by about 0.7 if 1.25 litre of saturated kalkwasser is dripped into 100 litres of tank water; and this will only raise your calcium level by 10ppm.