Michael Young

That's an option but I think its still not too late for him to get his tank maker to construct another overflow box. I think it'll be cheaper and much neater. I think we're going

Is that a 5 x 1.5 x 2.5? I would have 2 overflow boxes instead of one if I were you. Better circulation.

Its good to do it slowly then you have time to plan what sort of aquaria you want and make the neccessary purchases for your new tank. Good luck.

I doubt it. Not on the hobbyist level at least. Nautilus live in the deep ocean and are only caught when they swim to the shallows to feed at night. If you want to keep them, you need a very cold tank with low light level. In case any of you are interested, Nautilus is actually a Cephalopod like an octopus.

That's the reason why I always tell people starting up in the hobby to buy the biggest aquarium he can afford. It's true that a smaller tank is a royal PITA to maintain but not entirely impossible. You just can't keep too many fishes.

Yep. Its definitely cyanobacteria.

Cyano will proliferate in nutrient rich water and to get rid of them you need to do the following: 1. Increase circulation. Flow not speed. 2. Use actvated carbon. 3. Check alkalinity. It could be low 4. Feed less.

Sorry to dissappoint you but they are not corraline but look more like red slime algae (cyano bacteria) to me. Try poking it with something. If there are lots of detritus beneath, it's red slime algae. For your info, corraline algae are calcified plants and they are hard.

Aragonite does not absorb NO2 nor NO3. The primary function of having an aragonite sandbed is that it'll buffer the pH of your aquaria and provide calcium carbonate to the creatures living in there. It'll also harbour nitrifying bacteria or denitrifying bacteria (only when the bed is deep enough) which, any other types of substrates will.

Oh I got it. Its listed as Stereonepthya in J. Sprung's book.

Hey Max, you got the scientific name of the coral?

Unless you have a mated pair or can afford a school, it's not safe to keep just 2 cos most marine fishes are extremely territorial.

Don't know the names of the med but most LFSs do carry them.

Fin rot is caused by protozoan attack and is contagious. Unfortunately, I can't think of any medication for fin rot which will not adversely affect the welfare of your inverts. Quarantine, good nutrition and husbandry are needed to prevent such infestations.

There are many people out there who use one or the other. But IMO, they compliment each other when use together. Like all equipment you must know what they can achieve positively or negatively. For example, calcium hydroxide does not dissolve easily and IME, most people simply just pour in the milky liquid which is harmful to corals. Also, calcium hydroxide are harmful to your personal health when inhaled. As for the calcium reactor, it is more expensive to operate because you'd need a CO2 cylinder, a solenoid regulator and preferbly a pH controller to prevent from injecting too much CO2 which will depress pH. IMO, both this equipment have their own pros and cons. Therefore, deciding which to use is a personal choice. As for me, I use both and they are controlled by an IKS aquarium computer. ps. I think we're going way here.

Kalk reactor and calcium reactors are 2 different equipment which reefers use mostly to achieve the same primary goal: Increase calcium level. Kalkwasser or limewater is produced when calcium hydroxide is mixed with freshwater. It is predomidantly use as top off water to increase calcium level and alkalinity. Kallwasser will also precipitate phosphate and buffer your pH. Which is why most people will dose it at night when the tank pH is at its lowest. Calcium reactors need CO2 to dissolve the ARM (limestone) to produce calcium carbonate which is the building block of hard corals and reef animals with exo-skeleton. Where kalkwasser precipitates phosphate and increases the pH, calcium reactor does not. In fact, calcium reactors if not used properly will depressed the pH of a reef tank to a dangerously low level due to the injection of CO2. It may also caused an algae bloom for the same reason.

Wow ammonia spike!! No, I don't think it'll cause an ammonia spike unless you pour in 2 whole bottles at one go into a 10 gallon tank. But it does cause algae bloom like any other plankton feeds out there if overdose.

... Giantbicycle, you're really too kind to say the things you said about CP But to the people following this thread, I'd like to say that...................... I've never met Giantbicycle or spoke to him/her, or corresponded with him/her etc etc etc before! ... And he's saying these nice things with no oblgations and on his own free will. For that, I thank you Giantbicycle. Ps. don't ask me for any discounts in return or you'll be construed as my agent by all.

Hey Corrado and Terryz, all I can say now is MP will not be available here anytime soon. I'll keep all posted if there is any progress.

I disagree with that simply because BioPlankton is 40 times more concentrated than any phyto feed out there. A bottle of 30ml BioPlankton has 3 times more algae cells than any 16oz bottle of live phyto available anywhere. Which means it'll last 3 times longer; which also means it should cost 3 times more but does not.

I think your shrimp'sh is by predation rather than moulting. Shrimps don't die from moulting per se; but a deficiency in calcium could cause their new exo-skeleton to not develop properly during and this could probably lead to death.

Of course you need to check that your tank is level! We are talking about close to half a ton of water, glass and rock here. Can you imagine what can happen if someone accidentally knock into a tank sitting on a cabinet that is three-legged or a floor that is not level? Got the picture? You can always use a bubble level finder to make sure everything is not slanted at an angle.

No. They usually only stay on the sandbed. They aren't strong enough anyway.

Is this the iwaki or the resun version? How much is it? I sell the Resun MD55 at $198.

I'm not too sure but they look like Boodlea or Green Hair Algae as illustrated in Julian Sprung's book: Algae, A Problem Solver Guide.