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xiggie

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Posts posted by xiggie

  1. Have a spare 660nm led when original driver went kapoot . Bought a new driver from sim lim and came up with this set up .A crude design but saves space in sump. 

    Height can be adjusted with cut to length pipes 

    Box dimension is 20cm length and 15cm wide , height to be adjusted to water level .

    $100 for meterial and some labour . Add $10 for delivery and cut to size pipe height .

    driver is brand new but I'll give 3month warranty . 

    You will need an air pump for it to work bytheway .

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    • Like 2
  2. In order for kh and cal to drop , something needs to consume them. 

    Even when you have Sps in your tank it doesn't mean that they are consuming them. 

    The Sps needs to be stable and growing before u see a significant drop in kh and cal .

    There are lots of factors that can effect the stability and growth of Sps or infact all corals.(no3,po4 especially )

    i would pay more attention on the no3 and po4 and get them in check before looking at kh cal and mg or other trace elements. 

    For a 10g nano , I think those off the shelve product would be good enuff. Should not effect ph or other stuff that much.

  3. IMO the only risk could be the build up of chloride in the water . Since most of the food grade are cacl, mgcl and nacl. The corals will ultize the ca, mg ect but the chloride will be left in the water which the build up over time might be harmful to the tank itself.

     

    However since we conducted our regular water change, it shouldn't be any issue since the water change will help to remove the chloride from the water.

    sodium chloride ?

  4. The only way to know how much your stock consumes ca /kh / mg is to do a test daily , without dosing .

    say today u tested your water and it says kh 8 , cal 440 , u test again tomorrow and there is a difference like say kh7 and cal 400 ... It means your stock is consuming 1 kh and 40ppm cal per day . Then the following day it drops again to 6kh and 380 cal. It proves that your stock is consuming that much.

    from this info u know that a daily dose of cal and kh is needed . 

    So if you are using a manual dose , your should calculate the amount u need to replenish the lost element 

    http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html

    heres a calculator to use , it'll tell u how much element powder or flakes or liquid u need to dose . 

    If a dosing pump is used , then mix the element powder with rodi water in big amount and dose the required quantity via a dosing pump.

    a calcium reactor is used when manual dosing does not suffice the required amount due to the fact that your evaporation rate is lower than the dosing liquid amount.

    a calcium reactor needs to be tuned to the amount of element need by the stock, and that is another chapter. 

     

     

  5. 3 basic dosing elements are ca/calcium, kh/alkalinity and mg/magnesium , they all come in food grade product.

    when dosing all these 3 elements you need to know and pin point your tank consumption of these 3 elements. They may differ from each other coz different element are used up differently according to what live stock the tank has. 

    Dose to the required quantity that will replace the amount of element used.

    kalkwasse is a mix of kh and calcium (lime) 2 in one mix. If your tank need both then it's good to dose kalk.

    my current stock takes in KH at 1-2dkh per day , I run a calcium reactor to maintain the levels . 

    I run my tank at 7dkh , 440cal, 1450 mg 

    Currently have to dose magnesium  weekly because the calcium reactor doesn't have magnesium stones in it.

    • Like 1
  6. Yes food grade product has been used on reef tank , for as long as I know without adverse effect. 

    2nd question , if a product can increase calcium , I don't see why it cannot be used to maintain stable levels , it is up to the user to be able to adjust dosing amount to match consumption of any element not just calcium. 

     

  7. Calcium Reactor , 

    how I tune it without a ph probe or a co2 solonoid.

    (caution it may work for me , but it may not work for you )

    Firstly do test to confirm that your tank really needs a CR. Do checks to see if your kh is dropping at a fast rate daily , if your kh doesn't drop fast then you don't need a CR

    To start I set the drip rate to 50ml per minute. Then Set the co2 to 1 bubble per second , let the CR run for few hours (longer better) then test the KH of the effluent. Kh of effluent should read higher that the tank water , meaning the CR media is burning.

    The kh of the effluent will vary according to the bubble rate and drip rate. So I just need to confirm at what  effluent kh value I need for my tanks consumption. 

    For example my tank needs an effluent kh of 12 at drip rate of 60ml per minute to maintain a kh value of 7 in the tank. Different tank will require different values all according to corals consumption. 

    Daily checks of kh value of tank water is a must while tuning the CR to the desired and ideal setting.

    the tricky part is adjusting the drip rate to the bubble rate to match your tank consumption , same as when using a cr with solonoid and ph probe but once you get the sweet spot , all is well. 

    I've overshot tank kh value to above 10 when tuning the CR and lost some weak acro frags but observed that healthy n strong Sps can and will survive kh fluaction. 

    Now after the cr is tuned all is running auto and well , except mg. 

    If your are running a CR , I would recomend getting some magnesium media in to the reactor , this helps a lot , eventho the normal cr media has mg on them , they are just not enough especially if you are having algae problem ... Coraline algae ..

     

     

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