Fuzzy

You're using the JBJ 24G Nanocube? With your setup you probably don't need the additional canister for filtration it would help, but also increase power consumption and add a bit of heat to the water, if you decide to use it, fill it with either biohome and/or liverock ONLY, don't use any filter wool or bio rings/bio balls in the canister. I would add the intake where compartment 2 is, and redirect the output back to either compartment 1 or 3. Or you might want to look into adding a Fludized Reactor (FR) to the output of the canister and fill it with a phosphate removal product like RowaPhos. Other ways to avoid introduction of phosphates would be to use only pure distilled or deionized water for your water top ups. And avoid using treated tapwater or mineral water (likely to contain phosphates in varying amounts.) As for Nitrate removal or reduction the easier way is to avoid overfeeding your fish and do regular water changes (20% every 3 - 4 weeks) Avoid Bio Rings and Bio balls at all costs for Marine, over time because of trapped detritus they will become nitrate producers instead of hosting denitrifying bacteria. Your existing bio rings may be the cause of your nitrate levels, you should remove them immediately and replace them with Biohome or live rock. You probably will be fine just connecting your canister to tank without cycling it first. Adding bacteria (e.g. Seachem Stability) will speed up the colonization. I've never heard of anyone running an undergravel filter for marine, don't know if its a good idea. Are you using live sand, or bare bottom for your tank? Your bioload is quite high for a 24G, How many Kilograms of live rock do you have in there? You might want to invest in a better skimmer, the Airstone driven type which I'm guessing the Boyu is, is not effective. Also you want to watch your Mandarin very closely to make sure its eating. They are quite fragile and require an large mature system to survive in. They are very hard to keep alive in captivity and usually slowly starve to death as they need live copepods, and very rarely eat frozen or prepared food. Additionally you might want to give away or remove the Anemone they are hard to keep alive in nano tanks, and even in many larger mature tanks. If they die they will most likely bomb your tank and crash it or cause serious damage to its inhabitants. Hope this helps

Might not be enough flow over the Chaeto.

Bro your ARM Media is what brand? and how many grams remaining approximately?

How much is your maintenance contract with the store/guy? That said you have a very nice tank! How long have you had it, and have you had any problems with it so far? You actually don't need to change the coral chips or bio rings ever. These rings serve as biological homes for Denitrifying bacteria to colonize, so the waste and excess food can be broken down into less harmful substances. But as another bro has pointed out you probably want to remove the bio rings at some point and replace it with Live rock and/or Biohome (a popular brand of bio material that comes in stick form instead of rings - http://www.reinbiotech.com/biohome/biohome.jsp) because rings have the potential to trap air pockets and detritus potentially turning it into a nitrate factory in the long run. The skimmer removes dissolved organic compounds (proteins) and the activated carbon absorbs toxic non-organic compounds from the water and should be changed every 2 - 4 months or so depending on how big the bag is and how high the bioload in your tank is. Also most importantly do not ever top up your tank with untreated tap water! Letting it stand overnight is not good enough, Chloramine which is added into our tap water these days does not evaporate and needs to be neutralized. At the barest minimum you need to treat the water with something to remove the Chlorine and Chloramine and leave it to stand overnight. But even then treated tap water may contain phosphates and other minerals / chemicals which could lead to algae blooms and other complications. Ideally you should use distilled water (not mineral water!) or use Deionized Water (DI Water can be purchased from marine stores, or you can buy a DI filter system to make it at home.) to top up your tank. Reverse Osmosis systems are also good for producing even pure water, but the systems are more more expensive and involve more maintenance and frequent cartridge replacements. Which leads to another important point, you probably want to remove 10% - 15% of the water from the tank about once a month, and replace it with fresh saltwater. You can either buy saltwater premixed in Jerry cans (30L each) from most Marine supply stores, or you can mix it up yourself with Distilled or DI water and a prepared salt mix. I'm estimating your tank is approximately 5 - 6 feet long? what temperature is the chiller able to maintain your tank at? Also the skimmer may not be adequate for a tank of this size, might be wise to invest in a larger unit in the near future. Aside from that everything else looks good from what we can see from your pictures. Maybe take more Fulltank shots and close ups of your inhabitants so the experts here can advise you better on the needs on your coral and other livestock?

The easiest way is to turn on the canister then take the outlet tube, and suck on it until the canister starts flowing.

If you read the entire article you will see that the author doesn't think its a good idea, or even necessary. He is a proponent of deep sand beds though, I think his is 8 inches deep, crazy.

Aquamarin should have. its a $10 deposit per jerry can. They are blue and around 30L

PMed, still available?

Hi bro and Eheim 1046 / 1048s? Or similar models? need inline pump with around 300L/hr - 600 L/hr flow rate.

I doubt this is something they would actually enforce. But then again if you're stupid / inconsiderate enough to be dealing over the fare gate when you could do it by the sides along the barrier you really deserve to be fined $2000.

Okies I'm out of chaeto for now

Heh how big is this sucker? I think everyone is afraid its basketball size after reading your description

Hehe I also got some free chaeto to give out if Bendemeer are more convenient for you.

I think more wet than dry responses because producing dry skimmate normally needs more expensive skimmers

Hi bro is it a 2000 or 3000 series? and what version firmware is it running currently?

There is a bro selling some buffered vitamin C in forum, ordered from overseas. Btw, what is your water temperature at? is it stable?

I'm staying in NE area (near Boon Keng) but I can give you a tau huay tub of chaeto for free, if you can come pick up weekdays after 9pm. Don't mind some plants or mosses in exchange (FW or SW) PM me if interested.

Can also give Nature Aquarium in Balestier a call for a quote, their prices are not bad.

The type for controlling air pumps? Can try C328 or polyart. Just ask the uncle for T-joint for air tubing with adjustable valves, not sure what you mean by 16dia though.

For a floor to ceiling tank you might want to get a wetsuit, dive mask and a length of 3/4" diameter tubing to breathe through Kidding kidding, I understood your message. Yeah Aquamarin would be a good place to get your first quote.

Got pics? Interested if it has Automatic Temperature Correction.

I bought a StevieT Tunze cup so I can squeeze the Tunze 9002 into a JBJ 28G Nano, was recommended by the N. American boards. His site is here, can have a peek http://mediabaskets.com/

Eagerly eyeing this tank See you again in March for collection lol.

collected. thanks bro.

Did you receive my PM? Interested, but would like to enquire about the age and condition of the skimmer. Can SMS me at eight one eight three five zero one three.