Fuzzy
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Posts posted by Fuzzy
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mate
For sure it help bro tks tks my chiller is actica but dun no how to calibrate ? can teach me pls
most likely the pump you are using is too low flow rate. how many L/hr is the pump driving the chiller?
Unless your thermostat is faulty, might want to consider getting an external thermostat for your chiller, and/or upgrade the pump.
Putting the chiller on a timer is a bad idea, its there to maintain constant temperatures. If you want to save electricity leave the chiller set at 27C, or at most 28C (not so good for coral)
Since you already have a chiller why not maintain constant temperatures to keep your fauna happy?
Assuming your chiller is the right size for your tank (what is your tank size in Litres and your chiller model?) and your chiller pump is of sufficient flow, you should not be paying more than $6 - $10 a month to run the chiller, really peanuts compared to stocking and feeding/maintaining a marine tank.
Have you tried with another thermometer to confirm the readings? 30C is way too high for a tank with a chiller running.
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what are they exactly? I have some of these rather cute fellas in my tank also, hitch hiked from bro Yongshun's LR
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Randomly googled for worms and found this:
Worm cucumber?
wow thats a cool looking shrimp riding it.
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For JBJ HQI you can click the link below and check with them
I only see the JBJ Viper HQI Clip on 70w and 150w, but those require you to remove the hood to mount, was that what you were referring to?
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YES you can change to 70W or 150W HQI Nano-Halide from JBJ
Is there somewhere locally that sells the conversion kit??
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Hi fuzzy, thx for the compliment. yeap its a piano beside the tank..haha
I'll be careful with it. I did not use any market prawn to cycle the tank, I used LR (which are already cured) and salt mix which i got from AM. I don't really understand why the nitrate is so high when the LRs are already cured and there are not much die offs.. Hmm I'll consider doing a major water change a few days before i introduce LS.Thx
Is there any chance your Test kit is faulty or expired? There should really be no way the nitrate is at 50ppm if your LR is already cured and you're using salt mix...
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Thanks again Yongshan for your very helpful advice. Another question (sorry!) what about the existing stock pump and the elbow in the compartment. How can the eheim compact fit in? Do I have to remove the existing pump? and elbow? Guess I've got a lot to learn. Thanks in advance. Cheers.
The eheim compact 1000 fits in just nicely, the elbow returns from the chiller to the tank.
So basically instead of the return pump going straight back into the tank, it will be going OUT of the tank, through the chiller, then back into the tank.
If you want I can try to get a photo of how I have mine piped.
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There aren't supposed to be gas bubbles forming / released from the sandbed, so thats normal.
50ppm nitrate is pretty high though, what did you use to start the cycle, market prawn?
Did you put like the whole thing in? lol.
Maybe there was massive die off from stuff living on your live rocks, I wouldn't be too concerned with it at this point.
What kind of water did you use to fill the tank? NSW or Salt mix?
Don't do anything now, until the cycle completes. (Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0)
But after the tank has cycled you might want to consider doing an 80% - 100% water change before you start introducing livestock.
It will be easier to remove the nitrates now while the tank is empty, than it will be later when you have populated it.
I like your rockscape btw!
P.S. Is that a piano beside your tank?!
Be careful with splash and salt creep
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pink zoa frag for 20 dollars.
eagle eye frag for 20 dollars
other assorted frag
ranging from 5 to 20 dollars respectively
viewing can be done at tamp
Hi if you are not posting pictures, you might want to at least indicate how many polyps per frag.
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Far as I understand this sand is not meant to be used as a substrate for the main tank. Its usually used in sumps or refugiums, similar to Reef Mud, to add or replenish trace elements to the system.
Its also pricey..
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whats they pickup location?
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I would be inclined to get that rock out of the tank and into a quarantine tank, ASAP.
nice green zoos there btw.
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CBS typically go for $5 or less a piece at most LFS. If you are quoted a figure significantly higher than this, you should probably walk away.
Mine leaves my (slightly smaller) cleaner shrimp alone, and is actually quite shy, usually hiding in the rockwork.
My cleaner shrimp on the other hand is always hungry and ready to take food from your hand at feeding time, the little guy will come and check you out whenever you put anything into the tank.
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good price. I'd grab it if I needed one atm.
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Suggestion: your rocks should not be higher that 3/4 tank height. So when you put corals on them, your corals will not touch air. Also, you want a bit of buffer to allow for lower water levels during water changes.
Additionally you might not want rocks to be resting on the glass. Leave enough space for an algae cleaning magnet to pass between LR and rock so you can clean the glass easier.
Also it should improve circulation and reduce the amount of detritus that collects there.
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Yeah this week has been a scorcher. My chillers have been working overtime.
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If you're talking about the star shaped polyps.
I believe that's Clavularia, I actually _paid_ money for a rock of this coral from GO, and you got it for free
They only come out when your lights are on right?
I don't think you have a problem, the bubble will probably sting the heck out of the poor guys if they get too close to it,
your problem will be how to keep the bubble away from these cool polyps
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yeah that was one of my concerns and why I haven't replaced the stock skimmer yet.
I guess I can wedge filter media in the two outlets of the overflow and occasionally siphon out the detritus from the middle.
I've not managed to find any pictures from people using the 9002 in their JBJ 28G yet. was going to post pics when I did mine.
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Very interesting and entertaining crab to keep in a nano tank, but as the name suggests, it is easily broken like porcelain. I have a similar one. Lost the right claw and a couple of legs while scrambling for food, then when it grew back, he lost the left claw and the other legs. Last I saw him, he had NO claws or legs, just a floating head, literally! Probably got into a fight with the other crabs.
Whoah bro, you got a Octaplegic crab? Going to put him in a betta box and try to nurse it back to health / keep it alive?
Can the poor thing even feed without its filter arms?!
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You need to at least invert or gently shake the sample tube and let the solution mix in thoroughly.
You want the entire solution to turn blue, not just the drops contacting the surface. It is usually an indicator that you are quite close to turning the whole sample blue though.
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Haha, I didn't know about the new design. Maybe he's cutting cost, but I do remember him saying that the downward deflector is what makes it more efficient than the stock Tunze cup, prevents the bubbles from going back down the neck. I'll see the performance of my micro cup before deciding whether to get it
Hey bro, I actually thought of adding an inverted 50 cent tikum ball shell to act as the downward deflector, maybe you can try that. Low cost and should do the work as well in theory
He never made claims of his cup performing better than the stock tunze cup in the past though, that might be his new and improved design maybe?!
ooh hmm good idea! hmm or half a ping pong ball i think would work too.
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Did you dose chemical recently ? Especially magnesium ? Check your level.
No the only additive I've ever dosed into this tank is Caribsea Purple up.
Aside from that nothing has gone into this water aside from the LS and Hikari frozen mysis, frozen rotifers and TLF Marine snow.
Mg levels are within optimal range.
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What is the salinity of your water.
Also are you using a salt mix or Natural Sea Water?
You will have to answer all the above questions before we have enough information to even begin to be able to make suggestions.
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That is brown jelly and it will be a matter of time before you plate coral completely goes away. This often is due to damage to the coral tissue which results in infection that cannot be saved. It could already have been damaged when you bought it or damaged in the introduction process. Bristleworms are definitely not the problem here.
Spot on. It just turned into all brown jelly. I think my flow was too high at the site I originally located it.
Some tissue probably got torn and the brown jelly took over
The plate got stripped to a bare skeleton in the span of 4 days, it had no chance at all.
I've removed it from the tank.
New nano tank, 80 ltr. Help on filter and lighting urgent
in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
Posted
If you must really use a canister (not recommended for marine) be sure not to use those bio-rings, and to clean the canister filters out at least twice a month.
A skimmer is more important than a canister filter and it would be preferable to run a skimmer with more live rocks than to use a canister for your nano.
In the long run, constantly topping up DI water is a false savings. You should really consider installing a chiller.
For a Nano tank, a Hailea HC-100A or HC-150A is enough, and not too expensive ($100 - $200 second hand, and about $6 - $10 per month in electricity)
You won't have to do daily topups and your water parameters and temperature will be more stable.
AM Jalan Kayu has lots of live rock can go try there(many small pieces good for nano also) and for nano tanks, the most you will need is 3 or 4kg (less than 2 red notes)