Fuzzy
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Posts posted by Fuzzy
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When will frags be available?!
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You might want to make a visit to Henry ( Marinelife Hobbielist - http://www.listings.com.sg/detail.asp?list...&BranchID=0 )
To take a look at the Elos setup there if you're shopping in this price range.
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i'm wondering is the use of anti chlorine advisable for marine tank? beside using RO or distill water. what other way can help to condition the water for water change?
Most antichlorine solutions are fine (make sure it is anti-chloramine also) the problem is your tapwater contains nitrates, phosphates (which can cause algae problems) and may contain heavy metals or
other sediment that will accumulate over time.
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Storing mixed saltwater in the fridge should be no problem, there are some who store NSW outside of the fridge for up to 4 weeks with no problems also.
But providing some aeration would probably be a good idea for room temperature storage.
Just be sure to bring your saltwater to room temperature before you add it to the tank.
The easiest (cheapest) way to bring down your KH is water changes.
If you intend to use salt mix in the long run, you might want to seriously consider home delivery of distilled water (Water cooler sized bottles) or an RO system like the Crystal Pro.
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I would not recommend a pair of perculas in a tank this small. A single small specimen is probably the limit for a 1.5 x 1 x 1 ft tank.
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Roughly our plan is as follows:
1) Pour in the NSW
2) Pour in the NO sand to form the base layer of DSB
3) Put in the Fibreglass (tied to a large sheet of egg crate)
4) Pour in remaining Caribsea sand to cover the egg crate and create some different height of sand at different area to prevent detritus build up.
5) Stack the Live rocks on top of the egg crate and sand
6) Cycle the tank with Live Prawns (2-3/gallon, according to some website guide)
7) Cycle the tank, Aquascape as we go along
8) Cycle complete
9) Do a major (50%) water change with NSW or Salt water (prob salt mix + RO water using the Crystal Pro)
10) Finalise Aquascape
11) Add in some corals
12) Add some clean up crews - snails, sand shifters
13) Add in some fishes
14) Repeat and add in corals, fishes and clean up crew slowly while monitoring the water parameters.
The only slight changes I would recommend are for steps 1 - 6.
1) Leak test the tank with treated tap water (Antichlorine/chloramine, then drain out all the water)
2) Place the Fibreglass + egg crate base liner
3) Pour in all the live sand
4) Pour in the NSW
5) Stack the Live rocks on top of the egg crate and sand
6) Cycle the tank with a piece of dead market Prawn
Additionally after the cycling is completed, you might want to consider adding in the cleaning crew and the fish before the corals.
But looks like you have everything planned out! Keep us updated with pictures!
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when to lfs and he recomended me a 1000l/hr.anyway thanks for all the reply.no manual guess need to find 1 and read.
1000 L/hr is more than sufficient for a CL280, I believe there is a sticky in one of the sections here with a Resun manual attached.
I think if you correct the calibration for the internal thermostat the problem might go away.
Oops the link was from AQ: http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21125
Been wanting to add an in-tank thermostat to my CL280. Anybody know's how to DIY this?Problem is finding a thermistor with a similar resistance value, might be a bit tricky, but if you can get one, you can just disable the reservoir thermistor and patch an external one to the Resun thermostat.
I used a Fox 1004 (About $70 at Sim Lim Tower) Thermostat with external probe to control my chiller, prefer to have the temp reading taken from in tank.
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I'm assuming you mean in water with no aeration and no circulation?
Depends on the coral, but almost all coral will die very quickly under those conditions.
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You can visit some of the more popular stores like Marine Life Hobbielist, Aquamarin to look around and get a feel for whats available in the market.
Also the 2nd hand forum here is a good source for equipment.
Do you have a budget in mind?
A sump tank is highly recommended also.
A Hospital / Quarantine tank is a very good practice, but most reefers don't do this, if you have the space and the budget you should definitely consider it.
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Petmart in Hougang almost always has stock. But I almost had a heart attack when I found out the price of the Eheim branded ones about a year ago.
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Is your love for your new fishy more than the effort needed to relocate your coral?
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Nice, a 2ft cube with 3 sides Starfire (low iron) glass.
The price looks decent until you figure out what the shipping will come to. I reckon Shipping Alone for this tank and cabinet set will cost at least USD$800.00+ to get it to your doorstep after including packing and palletizing fees.
Custom make an almost identical tank locally makes more sense.
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Have you tried using a third thermometer to see which one is accurate?
I'm guessing the thermostat in the Resun is faulty or out of calibration. Have you calibrated the Resun thermostat to the thermometer then checked to see if it stays the same?
Also how many L/hr is the pump your are feeding the chiller with?
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My Tank is slowing turning from a FOLWR to a reef...lol
Uploaded a vid hope u guys like it!
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Just curious, any1 seen CL selling at LFS?
Kind of miss the tees.
C328 (aka Clementi Ave 2, Block 328) carries Coralife salt, I've seen the buckets there before.
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Wow bro you're a beast! Good luck with these little guys!
I had to stare at the picture for a minute before I could see the crab.
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Thanks siang,
just checking is it better to have more LR as it built more good bacteria and help to stable the tank..
In theory more LR is better for biofiltration. In practice though, too much live rock can create dead spots where detritus can build up.
Also it reduces the amount of water in your system, and the space for your livestock to roam.
So the more is better philosophy doesn't always work out so well, unless you have a HUGE sump and fill it full of LR
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For the JBJ 28G HQI Nano, the Tunze 9002 will only fit in the middle compartment, the sides where the returns are located are too narrow to fit it in.
As this is where the overflow is, the water level there is pretty stable, it will only drop if your tank is _seriously_ running low, heh.
Not so sure about the chamber arrangement for the 24G though
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A lot of bros at pasar malam letting go their 1/10 hp.will it be to strong for my 20g.never had a chiller b4.advise needed.Thanks.
1/10HP will not be too strong. What might be too strong is the minimum recommended flow rate you need to provide to run
the chiller efficiently. But there are ways around the minimum flow rate like moving the thermal probe into the tank, or using an external thermostat.
1/10HP and smaller chillers should not be a problem though, the flow rate of the return would be equivalent to a smaller sized
wavemaker at best.
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the problem is..haha...i'm not sure if my cannister can connect to the chiller which is located outside of the cabinet and about a meter away...the return flow may not be enough.
(sorry to hijack yr thread)
What is the flow rate of your canister? I think the worst case scenario is you have to add an eheim or aquabee pump inline between the two points and you'll be fine.
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If you're on a budget, look at the Hydor Koralia or Seio wavemakers. For the price they do a really good job, and come in a wide variety of sizes.
Personally I would avoid the other "China best" wavemakers, they're not much cheaper.
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Can i check with u all micro bubbles from skimmer alright mah?i know too much is not ok..i tried minimize liao but still got some escape out from outlet..
Yeah if its very minimal, or the bubbles mostly stay at the surface, I wouldn't be too concerned about it.
hi Fuzzy,how are you doing? Starting yr marine tank soon?
Hope to meet up with you to visit LFS.
Your mushrooms and yumas are huge!
Hehehe thanks bro, hope they are doing well in your tank! They really did grow very
plump and juicy in this tank though, thats why I like to visit GO to look for softies, hehe.
I will be restarting my tank, but not so soon (waiting for after CNY)
Still haven't fully decommed my nano yet, need to fish out my hardworking cleanup crew and find them a good home this week.
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I don't really agree with exceeding the maximum flow rate of your chiller. The fact remains that the pipings in the chiller are smaller than the tubings you run the tank water through and the reservoir in the chiller is small. What happens is that if you exceed the recommended flowrate of the chiller, then you will get backflow to your chiller pump and this may cause vibrations and also noise in your chiller pump.
Ah yes ok I agree. What I had more in mind was not exceeding the flow rate by an incredible amount.
More along the lines of using for example a 1200 L/hr pump for a recommended 1000 L/hr flow rate chiller.
Reason being with head/lift loss and tubing runs, canisters, media and other flow obstructions taken into consideration, you will almost never be able to produce the rated flow of your pump at the point it enters the chiller.
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What is the lift (head) on the Boyu pump? and how much plumbing is there between the pump and the return?
Unless the pump is losing that much flow from height or other obstructions to flow, it should be enough.
I've not had any experience with Atman chillers, but their other products I've tried in the past (canister filters) left much to be desired.
Wavemaker
in FOWLR (Fish-only with Live-rock)
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Agreed wavemakers can be very beneficial even in FOWLR setups for improved circulation and preventing the buildup of detritus.
As a plus you will find that some of your fish will spend quite a lot of time playing in the current.
You do want to ensure that your wavemaker is not too powerful for your tank though.